http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Tag: freehub - Recent Posts en Wed, 13 May 2026 01:53:22 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139830 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 16:00:32 +0000 Cyclops 139830@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You can need anything from a 10-15mm hex key to remove freehubs depending on the make/model. On some hubs the bolt to hold on the freehub is located on the left (non-drive) side so have a look in that side as well. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139824 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 15:18:17 +0000 Coxy 139824@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>What's the bike model, and are the wheels original? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139808 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 14:43:16 +0000 chdot 139808@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"have a seatpost or something handy for extra leverage on the key."</p> <p>I have usually managed with a foot on the Allen key. </p> <p>But I do have a bench vice in reserve. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139805 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 14:39:00 +0000 allebong 139805@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>Most cartridge bearings come out with the use of a hammer </em></p> <p>Crude as it sounds, this is usually the case. If you can see the bearings use (ideally) a rubber mallet or hammer and block of wood and tap the axle sideways. The bearing on the other side should edge out, once it's free slide it off the axle, then tap the axle the other way.</p> <p>There's a service guide <a href="http://www.ison-distribution.com/uploads/techinfo_6.pdf">here</a> that might be of use but it depends exactly how you're hub is built. I'd be extremely surprised if the freehub wasn't removable, I know some cheap Shimano clones aren't, but anything with cartridge bearings should be serviceable. Once the axle is out have a good look down the central hole. They tend to have lots of little flats for a hex key so it may look smooth at first glance but a key will engage. I've seen 10, 11 and 12mm sizes used and it will be very very tight - have a seatpost or something handy for extra leverage on the key. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139788 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 14:08:17 +0000 Coxy 139788@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>With my old Hope hubs, you could remove the freehub body by just prising off the top cap. It was held in place with a rubber O ring. Then the freehub body just slid off - with springs and pawls flying off in all directions, naturally!</p> <p>Most cartridge bearings come out with the use of a hammer and the correct sized drift. But I'd only try it with my own hubs!</p> <p>Is there a make/model number on the hub? Or something on the Giant website regarding the model of bike you have? Hopefully there's some manual/guidance out there? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139778 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 13:46:03 +0000 DaveC 139778@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>My rear on the cotic hass cartridge hubs. I just took it along to a local bike mech who did it for me for a little over the cost of the cartridges, which he ordered for me. I can pass you his details if you like, he's in Aberdour. Cheep as chips. Also he has said to me in the past, if I would like to watch him do the work I could then do it myself in future.</p> <p>Dave C </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139772 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 13:35:59 +0000 chdot 139772@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>This came with quick google search -</p> <p><a href="http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-overhaul-your-freehub-23757" rel="nofollow">http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-overhaul-your-freehub-23757</a></p> <p>Don't know how to remove ones that a 10mm Allen key won't fit - though that article's tools list mentions 12mm so perhaps that's the answer? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139766 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 13:33:17 +0000 EddieD 139766@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I can get my Shimano units off with a 10 (or 12??)mm Allen key*. I couldn't get the hub off my 'bent and replaced the wheel instead.</p> <p>*And a fair amount of swearing. And a bit of pipe on the key. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139762 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 13:29:38 +0000 kaputnik 139762@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>I've no idea how to extract them.</em></p> <p>It may be the case that you're not able to. I've had hubs before designed in such a way they have to be binned if the bearings get shot.</p> <p>I may be being silly but I thought free-hubs were integral to the hub structure and couldn't be removed from the hub? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=12042#post-139739 Tue, 14 Jan 2014 12:33:17 +0000 TractorFactory 139739@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I was wondering if anyone here could provide any pointers. I thought I'd gotten pretty up to speed on overhauling my wheels that were cup and bearing types but had to replace my rear wheel a couple of months ago. I don't need to do this just now but the any information may come in useful in future.</p> <p>I was doing and wee mid winter gunk extraction so I took my wheel apart as far as possible. The new one is a Giant 700c 29er wheel on my commuter which has cartridge bearings. I worked out how to reveal these bearings, but in the event of replacement, I've no idea how to extract them.</p> <p>Additionally, on my old wheel, the free hub was screwed on using a large hex adaptor that fitted down the centre of the freehub. Simply a case of unscrewwing and replacing. This new one doesn't have any obvious through the middle unscrewing method.</p> <p>Anybody come across these and can point me in the right direction? Know of any specific tools I might need for it? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-98158 Mon, 28 Jan 2013 00:30:01 +0000 chdot 98158@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"I didn't know there was a hex shaped hole in there"</p> <p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/chdot/8419651195/"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8353/8419651195_d3995ac175.jpg"></a><br /> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/chdot/8419651195/">10mm</a> </p> <p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/chdot/8420749748/"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8376/8420749748_8b325ebd19.jpg"></a><br /> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/chdot/8420749748/">Removed</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97846 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 21:13:41 +0000 Nelly 97846@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I had a freehub go on my Allez a couple of years ago.Kept 'catching' and dropping chain - TBW recommended chatting to original<br /> vendor, as it was only 9 months and 500 miles in.</p> <p>Bike co op spoke to Spesh who replaced entire rear wheel with a Shimano rs 500. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97830 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 18:16:41 +0000 Cyclingmollie 97830@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I just had another look at my old 105 hub and managed to unscrew the freehub - I didn't know there was a hex shaped hole in there. Got some light oil into the pawls and regreased the bearings. Smooth! I can get it built up with my spare Open Pro rim. Only thing is I'll have to get the bike shop to tighten the freehub body to 360 inch/pounds as there's no way I can get close to that with an adjustable spanner and a hex key. But result all the same. Thanks CCE. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97821 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 17:30:18 +0000 kaputnik 97821@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>I found excessive degreasing of my chain </em></p> <p>I recieved interesting advice from the Bike Works about NOT degreasing chains. Ever. Yes by all means clean them physically (chain oil applied liberally and wiped off with a lot of rag until it is clean works very well), however the point was that the degreaser penetrates into all the inner parts of your chain, between the pins and plates and washes the factory lubricant out and you'll never force the lube back in there to get it back to ideal condition.</p> <p>That said, they still sell chain degreasing kit and liquids in the shop!</p> <p>Same goes for keeping WD40/GT85 far away from anything that has bearings/grease inside it. Like it says on the can, it penetrates and degreases, exactly what you don't want happening to those parts. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97819 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 17:12:39 +0000 wee folding bike 97819@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Never broken one and some of them have 40-50K miles on them. </p> <p>I've only got two new fangled ones, a 2001 Campag Chorus which has only done a few thousand miles and a Brompton 2 speed which is similarly low mileage.</p> <p>Sturmey Archer, Sachs 3 speed and old style Sachs blocks seem to be working fine. The trike has two Sachs blocks, one on each half shaft.</p> <p>I'm not over zealous when it comes to cleaning bikes. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97787 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:47:39 +0000 TractorFactory 97787@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Result!!! Shop of origin, Halfords, are going to fix it under warranty.</p> <p>The bike is a Boardman Hybrid from Halfords and I know Halfords generally get a lot of stick but my local up in Dunfermline does seem to have some genuinely interested and clued up cyclists in their bike department.</p> <p>Shout out as well to the felly from SoulCycles for suggesting this avenue first and not taking offering to fix it straight away and costing me more than I needed. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97786 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:44:13 +0000 EddieD 97786@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've found Shimano units very reliable - on my old Hardrock, I replaced the initial unit when I upgraded to 8 speed, and it was still fine when I passed the bike over to my boss 7 years and 20k+ miles later </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97785 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:39:57 +0000 earthowned 97785@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I found excessive degreasing of my chain and cassette led to the back wheel feeling crunchy*. Popped open the rear gubbins* to have a look at the innards and lo behold the bearings were dry as a bone. After a liberal splurge* of grease the problem disappeared. Your mileage may vary.</p> <p>*highly technical terms </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97773 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 12:48:29 +0000 steveo 97773@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Freehubs are sealed units Shimano have designed them to be removed and replaced not serviced. They are not that expensive and the time take to try get to the small bearings etc would be a proper pita.</p> <p>I got a few thousand miles out the OEM one on the fishers oem wheel set before it completely refused to engage but after trying a couple of things to revive it I just ordered a replacement from Trek for £15.</p> <p>The ones on my cheap entry level shimano wheelset lasted a few hundred miles before developing an annoying (extra) tick but performance never suffered replaced them in the end due to wear not the freehub. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97772 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 12:34:09 +0000 TractorFactory 97772@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Yes, I believe at the mileage I'm doing I may have to learn the inner workings of the hub and how to retrieve gunge. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97769 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 12:03:20 +0000 wingpig 97769@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>If you're regularly washing NEPN path-gunk off it then it might be as simple as the gunge from the drivetrain sneaking into the freehub body and bunging it up, exacerbated by occasional freezings at this time of year. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97767 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 11:57:00 +0000 TractorFactory 97767@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Thanks, I did a rough calculation that says I've done just under 3000 miles on it. Yes, freehub sounds like terminology that I heard mentioned when I took it back. It did sound like they could strip it to replace just the worn part rather than a full wheel replacement but I'm not that clued up on rear wheel mechanics to know what is or is not possible.</p> <p>I might get away with a freebie replacement, but it sounds like they have equal grounds for saying it's normal wear and tear which at 3000 odd miles I can't really contest I don't think. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97764 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 11:29:01 +0000 Roibeard 97764@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've had a freehub fail after years of commuting (I didn't count miles then, but probably 5-10,000 miles).</p> <p>It got a bit noisy then started to "slip", like a chain on a worn cassette under acceleration, in other words, the pedals turned, the cassette turned, but the wheel didn't (momentarily). It was a bit disconcerting, particularly as acceleration often means getting off the line at lights...</p> <p>Anyway, although <a href="http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html">Sheldon</a> notes that the ratchet is replaceable, I just replaced the wheel on the advice of the bike shop, given the quality of the wheel versus the cost of an off-the-shelf wheel.</p> <p>Robert </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97761 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 11:04:08 +0000 kaputnik 97761@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I assume it's a freehub vs. a freewheel mechanism?</p> <p>I've run an RS500 until its rumbling and clunky, probably after about 4,000 miles but short of a total failure. It's Shimanos one-above-entry-level road wheel hub, comes pre-built into wheels.</p> <p>Tiagra freehub still running smooth and nice after c. 5,000 miles. Have a Deore XT freehub on my touring bike, also still fine after similar distances. 105 freehub also fine, think it's done about 2,500 miles.</p> <p>You could just have been unlucky. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97760 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 10:57:28 +0000 Cyclingmollie 97760@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've had a couple fail completely, on Shimano RS500 and 105 hubs. The RS500 failed after about 2,000 miles. The 105 after &gt;10,000 miles. I couldn't find tools or parts to repair either so if you can get the shop to fix it that's a help. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=9329#post-97750 Wed, 23 Jan 2013 10:01:22 +0000 TractorFactory 97750@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>On my commute in the other morning, my freewheel mechanism went. Something has crunched inside it and it's gone all clunky. Having just bought the bike new back in June, I've taken the wheel back to place of origin who've said they'll strip it down to find out what's gone wrong with it.</p> <p>I was wondering what other people's experience with this is. Have you ever had the freewheel mechanism fail on you and at what sort of time period or mileage?</p> <p>I do a fair bit of mileage (which I'll probably have to work out for when they get back to me), average 21 miles a working day. </p>