http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Tag: mudguards - Recent Posts en Mon, 13 Apr 2026 15:17:45 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=21387#post-371465 Sun, 05 Nov 2023 13:26:49 +0000 mercury1and2 371465@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>thanks- </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=21387#post-371362 Mon, 30 Oct 2023 11:05:21 +0000 Dave 371362@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I don't think the instructions would be different for any of the sets I've fitted over the years, I suggest you try youtube until you find a video that looks similar to the parts you have? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=21387#post-371328 Fri, 27 Oct 2023 17:36:39 +0000 mercury1and2 371328@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Hi- I have new mudguards SKS Chromoplastics- Bluemels set P50 which are listed as 28/Black. I have checked the instructions and need better ones. The archive instructions have different names and numbers and I dont know which one will do. Can anyone help ?TIA </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=18935#post-285507 Thu, 21 Jun 2018 16:12:48 +0000 mfcity 285507@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I am hoping I’m not alone in foolishly piling up bike gear for vague future use. Right now, I have two sets of Velo Orange 26 inch x 60mm mudguards, one steel, one aluminium, with the mounting hardware. I also have used but decent condition Tortec chromoplast style 700 x 35mm guards which won’t fit with the 30c tyres I’m trying to use.<br /> I’m looking for somethling like the Velo Orange or Gilles Berthoud 700 x 42mm guards if anyone happens to have some new or used ones. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=15852#post-206814 Tue, 15 Dec 2015 12:05:54 +0000 kaputnik 206814@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>If you can get the tyre size and then an estimate of the clearance between the tire and the frame, and also supply what fittings are available on the frame (i.e. are there eyelets at the dropouts / front fork and bolt holes through the fork crown and the rear brake bridge) it can probably be worked out. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=15852#post-206800 Tue, 15 Dec 2015 09:52:22 +0000 eastsidebikes 206800@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The main things would be the size of the tires, clearance available, the space between the tires and the frame, to fit the mudguards and the type of bike it is i.e. road bike, mountain bike, full sus etc. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=15852#post-206797 Tue, 15 Dec 2015 09:35:43 +0000 fimm 206797@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>If I were to attempt to buy mudguards for a bike that does not belong to me, how would I know what size mudguards to buy?</p> <p>(I have access to said bike, so I could measure things. But I can't take it anywhere without the owner knowing.) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434&page=2#post-182585 Fri, 06 Mar 2015 17:13:34 +0000 mfcity 182585@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>To cut the stays using bolt cutters, I just stood on the short end of the stay while cutting; the long end was too heavy to go flying off. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434&page=2#post-182447 Wed, 04 Mar 2015 20:21:30 +0000 Instography 182447@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The tab that connects the <a href="http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/SKS/B35-Mudguard-Bridge/53I?gclid=CJeOlam1j8QCFQ_KtAodvg4AlQ">metal bridge</a> thing to the frame on the rear wheel broke so I drilled the leftover part and rivetted it to a right angle bracket, adding some epoxy for good measure, and reassembled it all. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434&page=2#post-182404 Wed, 04 Mar 2015 13:55:06 +0000 acsimpson 182404@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>My mudguards are held together with bolts too. I figured if I bought new ones they would simply break in the same place in another 18 months but with bolts and washers I should get several years of service. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434&page=2#post-182383 Wed, 04 Mar 2015 11:26:29 +0000 DaveC 182383@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I have two bikes now with rivets replaced with small nuts and bolts as I was too cheap to buy new guards. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182381 Wed, 04 Mar 2015 11:22:40 +0000 kaputnik 182381@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@DaveC - it's a good answer, I ended up pop-rivetting a lot of SKS bits onto the VO guards to get them to fit! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182379 Wed, 04 Mar 2015 11:19:29 +0000 DaveC 182379@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I think my answer would be to buy a rivet gun and rivets and take the stays off my old SKS guards and pop them on the new guards. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182376 Wed, 04 Mar 2015 11:08:37 +0000 kaputnik 182376@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Those PDW mudguads look nice, but suffer from the same basic design issue as Velo Orange ones; namely a single wrap-around stay. This makes fine fettling of the position very difficult, and also puts a long section of metal unsupported between the stay and the bridge, making them quite flexy and rattly (they bounce off the tyre, even when held far off it), and (potentially) liable to over-stress and the appearance of fine fractures eventually leading to failure. The fittings do look easier to handle than the VO ones through (for instance on the VO mudguard, there is a single bolt that holds the stay to the guard, which is only accessible (for aesthetic purposes) from the <em>inside</em> of the guard, meaning when the wheel is off. So you can only fine tune the position of the guard to the wheel when the wheel is off, so for all practical purposes you can't actually fine tune the position of the guard to the wheel!) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182370 Wed, 04 Mar 2015 10:46:35 +0000 DaveC 182370@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I spotted <a href="http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/346/465_pdw3/pdw-full-metal-fenders-set.html"><strong>these</strong></a> via Audax Facebook page. Portland Design Aluminium Mudguards. They look fab! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182352 Tue, 03 Mar 2015 23:00:57 +0000 Arellcat 182352@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>I've never tried the Dremel on stays, but I imagine it would create a lot of sparks and run through 1 (or more) cut-off wheels to do the job.</em></p> <p>I generally use my Dremel for cutting mudguard stays. Actually it's some foreign faux-Dremel thing I bought in Makro for about £15. Surprisingly good, actually. Maplin sells a useful multi-pack of bits for Dremels, including proper fabric-reinforced cut-off wheels that last for ages. Alternatively I'll use a junior hacksaw with the stay clamped in the vice.</p> <p><em>You still have the problem of cutting a bouncy piece of metal so require it clamped down securely.</em></p> <p>You drape a cloth over the free end, or clamp it in a pair of Molegrips. If using cutters, line up where you're about to chop and drape the cloth over the whole thing. Hey presto, no flying spikes of metal.</p> <p><em>I'm not sure if anyone else bothers, but I always file off the sharp ends of the stays</em></p> <p>I bother, every time. There's something satisfying about a mudguard stay with a neatly rounded end. It also helps guard against damage if your toe overlap is such that you sometimes lose the little plastic end caps. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182348 Tue, 03 Mar 2015 22:29:18 +0000 mfcity 182348@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>So, the while thing is about 96% done; I just need to file the stay ends off and fasten the rear guard with a longer bolt to the chainstay bridge. Big thanks to everyone for the input, and to The Bike Station for bolt cutters. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182282 Tue, 03 Mar 2015 13:45:17 +0000 kaputnik 182282@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>but I'll maybe see whether there are loanable ones at the Bike Station</em></p> <p>First time I cut stays, they wouldn't loan me the cutters, but they did take the stays and trim them off for me. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182281 Tue, 03 Mar 2015 13:40:30 +0000 mfcity 182281@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Thanks, this is really helpful. For trimming the guard, I'd never heard of a coping saw, which looks feasible, and I'll file them down afterwards. I'm not sure about my budget for bolt cutters, but I'll maybe see whether there are loanable ones at the Bike Station. This is progress, though! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182275 Tue, 03 Mar 2015 12:21:17 +0000 wingpig 182275@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I either use a hacksaw or tile (effectively coping) saw for guard-trimming. A junior hacksaw's blade is shallow enough to be able to curve the cut slightly without risking wedging the cut open and causing a snap. I can confirm that bolt-cropped Vavert stay-ends are quite capable of rending flesh. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182273 Tue, 03 Mar 2015 12:10:36 +0000 kaputnik 182273@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>It's very quick to saw the stays if you have a pin vice (costs under a tenner). Otherwise it's as much faff as Roibeard suggests. Bolt cutters are an expensive but useful outlay. They <em>will</em> fire high velocity lengths of sharp metal around the place, so take care where those might land. they also leave the metal with a "V" cut profile with a sharp ridge down the middle, which is particularly sharp.</p> <p>I've never tried the Dremel on stays, but I imagine it would create a lot of sparks and run through 1 (or more) cut-off wheels to do the job. You still have the problem of cutting a bouncy piece of metal so require it clamped down securely.</p> <p>I'm not sure if anyone else bothers, but I always file off the sharp ends of the stays as I've ripped clothing before when a trouser leg has caught a sharp stay end. This particularly applies to those who leave the ends of their stays as long as Wilmington's Cow does.</p> <p><em>If anybody has useful experience cutting polycarbonate</em></p> <p>I've sawed up guards to get them to bodge-fit where they shouldn't before. A coping saw with a fresh, fine-toothed blade will do the job. Or a hacksaw if you aren't cutting a curve, the metal blades I find work best and leave the cleanest cut. Wood blades go through quicker but leave quite a lot of fine furring on the cut. The material is pretty flexible so bounces away from the saw, so worth bodging something to hold it in place and not deforming under the saw pressure and cutting slightly off from where you intended. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182272 Tue, 03 Mar 2015 12:06:02 +0000 chdot 182272@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Bolt cutters quickest. </p> <p>BUT</p> <p>Work out where the bits will 'fly', and make sure nothing/anyone is in the way. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182271 Tue, 03 Mar 2015 12:05:37 +0000 Roibeard 182271@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The hacksaw option is actually harder work than you'd think, as the stays are quite hard and it can be difficult to get the saw to "bite" as you begin. Be prepared for initial slipping of the blade, and ensure your fingers aren't what it bites into!</p> <p>Robert </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-182268 Tue, 03 Mar 2015 11:54:59 +0000 mfcity 182268@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I wanted to follow up and report that the Vavert mudguard stays fit nicely (requiring a little force, as you'd hope) in the SKS secu-clips. Thanks for the tip.<br /> Next step is to trim down the stays, and I've seen varying pieces of advice about this: the quickest, cheapest way looks to be a junior hacksaw, but others recommend dremels or boltcutters.<br /> I also need to trim the sides of the read guard a little to fit between the chainstays. If anybody has useful experience cutting polycarbonate (no metal layer in these Vavert guards), I'd certainly appreciate it.<br /> I tried to upload a photo of the front guard, but wasn't successful. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-181826 Wed, 25 Feb 2015 19:20:40 +0000 mfcity 181826@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Great, wingpig. I phoned and found out Bicycle Works has spare secuclips:) Hoping to still nip out and get some this evening. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-181823 Wed, 25 Feb 2015 18:01:40 +0000 wingpig 181823@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Precisely. I had a poke in the Bike Station for some spare fixings but found none. I'll poke the Vavert stay into the SecuClip on my spare bike when I get a moment to test the fit before ordering. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-181821 Wed, 25 Feb 2015 17:40:26 +0000 mfcity 181821@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>&gt;Vavert. They lack the front I eyelets breakaway &gt;fixing of SKSes (though they can be fitted as an &gt;aftermarket improvement, as I shall shortly prove)</p> <p>Could you elaborate on this aftermarket mod? I aim to get the Vaverts, and found SKS secuclips for sale from SJS. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-181773 Tue, 24 Feb 2015 22:39:58 +0000 mfcity 181773@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@I were right about that saddle</p> <p>Thanks; I'll try to head over for a look tomorrow. I notice that while the Longboards and Vaverts both go up to 45mm width, the former recommend only up to 37mm tyres, whereas Vavert says up to 40mm. Maybe they're shaped differently. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-181752 Tue, 24 Feb 2015 19:45:24 +0000 I were right about that saddle 181752@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@mfcity</p> <p>There's a set of MTB Vaverts on the right hand wall of the Bike Station at the minute. £27.99. 50mm wide. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14434#post-181713 Tue, 24 Feb 2015 12:20:25 +0000 crowriver 181713@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>'Subtotal women', i.e. men? </p>