http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Tag: rim wheels wear - Recent Posts en Sun, 28 Jun 2026 04:13:36 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-127273 Sun, 06 Oct 2013 20:29:43 +0000 Greenroofer 127273@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>P.S. This is her bike. You can't get it any more with hub brakes, but as a maintenance-free city bike it's absolutely brilliant. I pump up the tyres occasionally, and it does need a new chain, but that's it in three years of riding.</p> <p><a href="http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/expression.n7.w/7095/43408/#features">http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/expression.n7.w/7095/43408/#features</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-127272 Sun, 06 Oct 2013 20:22:29 +0000 Greenroofer 127272@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Mrs GreenRoofer has Shimano Nexave hub brakes front and rear on her bike (combined with Nexus hub gear). She's had the bike for three years or so, rides about 12 miles a week on it all year round.</p> <p>Maintenance so far: I tightened up the cables by adjusting the knurled knob on the brake lever a few weeks ago. That's it. In three years.</p> <p>They aren't as crisp as my hydraulic disc brakes, but they work in all weathers and need <em>zero</em> maintenance. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-127270 Sun, 06 Oct 2013 19:31:44 +0000 Schemieradge 127270@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Thanks I spotted that earlier - would save a load of hassle! but I can't find any info about how good Shimano Nexave hub brakes are so am not so sure about that one. Everyone seems to go for Sturmey Archer hub brakes. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-127244 Sun, 06 Oct 2013 16:15:39 +0000 custard 127244@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Wheel-26-AlexRim-on-Shimano-Nexave-Hub-Brake-From-Ridgeback-Nemesis-/221286132500?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;hash=item3385ae6b14" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Wheel-26-AlexRim-on-Shimano-Nexave-Hub-Brake-From-Ridgeback-Nemesis-/221286132500?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;hash=item3385ae6b14</a></p> <p>any use? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-127241 Sun, 06 Oct 2013 14:44:04 +0000 Uberuce 127241@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>That's why you pay the LBS the big bucks - they get to worry about that.</p> <p>26" is what Pashley use on some of their women's bikes, most of which are S-A dynodrums, so that's a start if you wanted to source them yourself. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-127240 Sun, 06 Oct 2013 14:23:33 +0000 Schemieradge 127240@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Yep it could be really simple - but I heard some people complaining it was hard to find the right spokes because the hub was such a large diameter..? no idea if this is a real issue or not having never tried it.. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-127239 Sun, 06 Oct 2013 14:23:25 +0000 Uberuce 127239@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Yarp, the Bike Works will build round whatever hub you present them with. I don't know if any LBS would insist on ordering it through them, but Bike Works don't. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-127238 Sun, 06 Oct 2013 14:04:47 +0000 custard 127238@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>any wheel builder should be able to do it?<br /> its just a hub to build the wheel round surely? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-127237 Sun, 06 Oct 2013 13:52:17 +0000 Schemieradge 127237@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Can someone point me in the right direction... I'm trying to work out how to get a 26" wheel with a Sturmey Archer front hub brake installed without having to build it myself (mainly because I don't know how to).. are there any places online that do that sort of thing..? Or do most people who have them build them themselves? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126513 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 19:30:55 +0000 Schemieradge 126513@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>allebong. thanks for the detailed post... that idea is pretty appealing..<br /> but hub brakes? I don't think I really knew there was such a thing - I really like the idea especially if it means I don't have to get new forks. </p> <p>Are there any downsides to using a jubilee clip instead of an appropriate fork? Or just the slower wheel change? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126472 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 13:02:21 +0000 jdanielp 126472@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I managed to find an Orange F8 rigid fork (which has disc brake and full mudguard mounts) for my mountain bike last year for just over £50 and it has massively improved the bike's responsiveness for commuter riding after I had been putting up with an increasingly worn out front suspension fork for ages. Just to note that I have only had to replace the rear disc brake pad and the brake cables in terms of brake/wheel components during 5 years and well over 10000 miles of mostly commuting usage... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126464 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 12:38:50 +0000 neddie 126464@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I had a similar problem, so I swapped out my derailleur system for a 3-speed Stumer Archer hub with integrated drum brake (X-RD-3).</p> <p>Now I have no wear on the rear rim, and there are fewer drive-train components to wear out. Front rim is still a disposable item.</p> <p>The downside - the hub is heavy, 1.8kg </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126463 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 12:32:25 +0000 allebong 126463@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You could easily get away with a front disc only since you should be using the front brake almost exclusively, at least while on decent surfaces. </p> <p>You didn't mention what type of headset your bike has. I'm not sure if it's possible to do a conversion with a threaded/quill stem headset but it can be done quite cheaply with a standard threadless headset. Here's how I'd go about it assuming you're running 26" wheels. If you have 700c you can find comparable parts.</p> <p>Finding a rigid 26" fork with disc brake mounts is a real pain. They do exist but are hard to actually buy anywhere in my experience. You can get a basic suspension fork like <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SR-SUNTOUR-XCT-V3-SUSPENSION-FORKS-MTB-11-8-STEERER-/321214996317?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;hash=item4ac9e7df5d">this one for £30.</a> Just put on lots of preload and it will be comparable to a rigid fork and it has the all important disc mounts.</p> <p>Next up is a wheel. I've had good experiences with cheap n cheerful ebay wheels so long as you check the state of the bearings when you buy - 99% chance they'll be too tight and without enough grease. Both easy fixes. Something like <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tru-build-Front-Disc-Wheel-Q-R-axle-Mach-1-MX-Black-26-inch-RGH845-/180816555954?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;hash=item2a1981afb2">this wheel for £30</a> looks like a good deal. The only maintenance needed here is to repack the bearings maybe once a year. Doing that should make it last for a long time without rim wear to worry about.</p> <p>Lastly the brake. My advice is to skip cable discs and go straight for hydraulics. I've used both and I'd never want to go back to cables. This <a href="http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/avid-elixir-1-disc-brake/rp-prod67752">mtb brake</a> is an absolute steal for £30. I have an older version of this brake that's seen close to 2500 miles in all weathers on one set of pads. Has never needed a spot of maintenance and still stops as sharp as ever no matter what the conditions. They benefit from a bleeding once a year but you can get away with less - and it's only £15 or so at a bike shop.</p> <p>So, with new parts, there's a disc brake conversion for a shade under £100. You can lop that price right down if you could find a secondhand fork for less (bikestation has a few I think) or a cheaper disc wheel etc. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126453 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 10:34:43 +0000 Uberuce 126453@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Sign me up. I am still unlearned in the Way of the Radiant Lace. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126449 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 10:27:40 +0000 kaputnik 126449@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I might be in the market to hub-up some wheels for my off-the-beaten-path bike (need to get new rims still).</p> <p>A sit-in would be cool.</p> <p>Assume a regular brake-lever is fine for them, nothing special needed? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126448 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 10:18:01 +0000 Dave 126448@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've already got one wheel build promised to a friend, so perhaps I should just do an evening session and build a few? </p> <p>Uberuce, can't remember whether you build your own wheels or not? Some kind of CCE wheelbuilding sit-in might be neat (I know this has been mooted many times). </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126439 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 09:42:39 +0000 crowriver 126439@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>That whin dust is really bad for all your bike's moving parts unfortunately. Wouldn't be surprised if your drivechain wears quickly too.</p> <p>Hub brakes are sealed from the elements so should not suffer. Quite easy to retrofit to your existing forks too. Here's <a href="http://www.sturmey-archer.com/products/hubs/cid/2.html">Sturmey Archer's selection</a>. Some of these hubs can be obtained 'new old stock' on fleBay for relatively little. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126430 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 08:59:26 +0000 Uberuce 126430@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>That's the plan I'm going for. In fact I'm combining that plan with wee folding bike's, since it's a fixed gear already. I don't believe skinny jeans are an option for me, though. Phew etc. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126428 Mon, 30 Sep 2013 08:49:42 +0000 Dave 126428@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Actually that's true, you could fit an X-FDD like the one I use (there's also non-dynamo possibilities).</p> <p>The braking takes a little bit of getting used to, but it's perfectly fine (it's how I mainly play in traffic).</p> <p><a href="http://mccraw.co.uk/sturmey-archer-x-fdd/" rel="nofollow">http://mccraw.co.uk/sturmey-archer-x-fdd/</a></p> <p>I guess mine is starting its third winter now. I have once changed the brake cable, but that's it.</p> <p>Will work with any fork. You'd just need to ask someone to build it into a wheel for you. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126410 Sun, 29 Sep 2013 23:39:05 +0000 kaputnik 126410@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Hub brakes? Consider dynamo hub brake on the front for ultimate commuter lighting power.</p> <p>Or just don't use the brakes on the path :) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126399 Sun, 29 Sep 2013 22:14:54 +0000 Schemieradge 126399@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I do have a nagging feeling that I might be throwing good money after bad on this bike now you mention it le_soigneur.. it's about 14 years old now but when I decided to start commuting I took it as a challenge to get it up to scratch again - and over the last year or so I've replaced just about every moving part and it rides really well now. So I would be reluctant to give it up...</p> <p>But I hadn't banked on having to keep replacing some of the more expensive parts so often!</p> <p>Dave, are you suggesting just fitting a disc on the front..? Had never considered that - would be perfectly workable I guess.</p> <p>wingpig, how much longer would you guess you'd get using Kool Stops? I did think about using them before but I think I decided that my rims get so grimy and muddy that it'd probably not make too much difference. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126397 Sun, 29 Sep 2013 21:33:56 +0000 Cyclops 126397@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Try one of Ryde's CSS rims (either Grizzly or Sputnik) which will be a lot longer lasting than a Mavic XM317. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126396 Sun, 29 Sep 2013 21:23:03 +0000 le_soigneur 126396@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>When I was doing 100% commute on the road, I used to go through a rear MA2 every 2 years. Cheap non-anodised wheels, only £20 to replace so I just considered them the same as tyres, wearable items.<br /> I moved to MA40 anodised and got a lot more out of them. On the road.<br /> If I was doing 8 miles on a railbed every day, I'd be happy to get a year out of them.<br /> Best to see if you can pick up a complete cross bike 2nd hand with discs- better that than throwing good money after bad on the Coop bike to convert that to disc. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126391 Sun, 29 Sep 2013 21:01:19 +0000 wee folding bike 126391@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Get some hipster jeans and a fixed wheel… </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126389 Sun, 29 Sep 2013 20:48:15 +0000 wingpig 126389@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Maybe try more durable rims or softer and more rubbery rim brake pads. The distinct difference in braking-sound between standard black abrasive brake pads and something like pink flavour Kool Stop implies a great deal less scraping is going on with a softer compound. More expensive than standard brake pads but cheaper than even a very cheap new rim, never mind a while wheel... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126387 Sun, 29 Sep 2013 20:22:03 +0000 Dave 126387@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You could replace the forks with a similar, but disk tab equipped version, then buy an Avid mechanical brake, new wheel, and wire to existing brake levers / handlebars.</p> <p>You might be able to do it for £100, I'm not sure. Probably a bit more I fear.</p> <p>Might be easier to buy a second hand bike that comes with discs? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=11236#post-126382 Sun, 29 Sep 2013 20:13:59 +0000 Schemieradge 126382@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I ride the Pencaitland Railway Path on my 8 mile commute.. I've only been doing this about a year and a half but I'm very surprised at how quickly I'm wearing down my rims. On my second set of wheels already. Must be all the grit grinding down the rims (Mavic XM317).</p> <p>Any advice on how to avoid this happening to quickly? Or is a set of wheels a year what I should expect?<br /> Would the expense of converting to disc brakes (if that is even possible on my bike) be worth it so save replacing the rims so often? (For me replacing the rims means getting new wheels really since I don't have the know-how to build my own wheels)... many questions..</p> <p>I ride an old Bike Coop commuter btw..<br /> Cheers. </p>