http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Tag: western isles - Recent Posts en Wed, 17 Jun 2026 05:56:39 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324392 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 22:09:34 +0000 Tulyar 324392@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Many opt for the 961 Citylink coach Ullapool-Inverness &amp; with Hitrans I've been promoting cycle carriage &amp; ferry connection for almost 30 years.</p> <p>The reinstated through service between Edinburgh/Stirling &amp; Fort Bill (913) annoyingly but probably for commercial reasons now goes via Broxburn(Perth)P&amp;R &amp; express coach interchange for Inverness, Dundee, Aberdeen, Glasgow, and Edinburgh (faster than train) In its previous form it went via Callander &amp; took an hour less - very popular with West Coast students at the McBob in Stirling with the aquaculture links especially.</p> <p>Achnasheen (Place of the rain) is almost at Luib Summit and provides a range of alternative routes to Loch Broom (via Torridon, Poolewe Gardens, &amp; a rather challenging option via Scoraig (involving small not daily/timetabled ferries) or just head North for Braemore Junction on A835 </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324352 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 14:41:59 +0000 I were right about that saddle 324352@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>Legally yes, however the family and I got chased off a field in Barra, and severely scowled at on the machar on South Uist.</em></p> <p>It isn't yet 2003 in parts of the Western Isles. I was ready to go to war with a dude on Bernera who didn't like me walking on his track, but was told to stand down by a wiser head.</p> <p>Not worth it if you're camping on your own. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324343 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 14:16:25 +0000 Roibeard 324343@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>are there rare wild daisies or something?</em></p> <p>No, just rabbit trimmed grass. The local felt it was taking money out of the economy, and was as antisocial as camping on the banks of Loch Lomond...</p> <p>This time, however, we'd already camped unlike meeting the aggressive Irishman on Barra, so we didn't move on.</p> <p>Given that we were travelling as a family,<br /> between these couple of locals and the weather, we were quite happy to leave one week into our fortnight's holiday!</p> <p>Robert </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324334 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 13:46:38 +0000 CycleCommute.CC 324334@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Maclean's do amazing produce! They "export" it to Lewis and I always stock up. Local Stag bakery is also pretty good.</p> <p>If you are hungry in Harris, Croft 36 is a gem. It's a takeaway service where they stock a shed at the end of the driveway with all kinds of goodies (runs on an honesty box system). I had a lamb curry when I stopped there (you can get them to warm it up for you).</p> <p>The climb North out of Tarbert is pretty brutal. Steepest section is right at the start, and although it eases off a bit it does go on for a while.</p> <p>The ride up through Lewis looks flat in comparison, but it is uncomfortably lumpy. When you have many miles in the legs you start to feel every one (although admittedly I did Barra to Stornoway in 1 day so was feeling pretty tired by then). </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324331 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 13:32:16 +0000 AKen 324331@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Travelling north across Benbecula, you come to the B892 junction, which is shortly before the causeway across to North Uist. It's signposted for the airport.</p> <p>2 mins cycle down this road will take you to Maclean's Bakery. Worth the diversion. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324325 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 13:22:16 +0000 wishicouldgofaster 324325@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>My tips -<br /> Do plenty of hill training - the hills around Tarbert are tough<br /> Take suncream<br /> Take sudocream just in case :)</p> <p>Book B&amp;B asap </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324304 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 11:17:24 +0000 I were right about that saddle 324304@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@bill</p> <p>The weather there is entirely unmoderated in my experience. Prepare for both sunburn and frostbite. Well worth it - utterly magnificent. I'd be a bit sad if you just hurtled through at athletic speed.</p> <p>Things I would do again;</p> <p>1) Mooch about the machair.<br /> 2) Swim in the turquoise sea.<br /> 3) Climb Hecla.<br /> 4) Wander aimlessly round the Benbecula Co-op marveling at the staff casually chatting in Gaelic.<br /> 5) Check out Loch Druidibeag.</p> <p>Also maybe try to get a gig with the local musicians? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324301 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 11:15:07 +0000 minus six 324301@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>severely scowled at on the machar on South Uist</em></p> <p>are there rare wild daisies or something?</p> <p>remember encountering something similar on the west coast machar of Islay</p> <p>i camped on the machar South Uist but only recall sand flies, far too many of them </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324296 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 10:50:15 +0000 AKen 324296@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Leverburgh to Stornoway in a day is entirely possible but I think will feel like a slog. There is a long climb going north from Tarbert through the hills and the road then, if the weather is not kind, goes through what will seem bleak and uninspiring parts of Lewis before reaching Stornoway.</p> <p>If you can spare the time, you could see some more interesting parts of the island by taking more time and looping west to see the Callanish Stones, Carloway Broch and the blackhouse village at Gareninin - returning via the Pentland Road.</p> <p>If you're heading through North Uist to Berneray, take the Committee Road. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324282 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 00:00:52 +0000 Colin 324282@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>bill</p> <p> I recommend spending a day or so in Barra so that you can visit Vatersay and the airport. Excellent curry house in Castlebay too.</p> <p> Also, if you can, take your time to enjoy the flora and fauna of the Uists. No Grouse shooting there so a better chance of seeing Hen Harriers.</p> <p> Prepare for midges, headwinds and confirm availability of accommodation. Hebridean Celtic Festival is 15th - 18th July in Stornoway, so no room at the inn then. </p> <p> The representation of the Iolaire in Stornoway Harbour is very moving. </p> <p> Familiarise yourself with the work of Peter May, as well as Peat and Diesel.</p> <p>Enjoy!</p> <p>Cheers<br /> Colin </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144&page=2#post-324275 Tue, 10 Mar 2020 21:59:54 +0000 bill 324275@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Wow! Thanks all for your feedback. I am very excited. </p> <p>Yea, the weather... I am planning to do in July. Would prefer June before the school holidays but at work we are not allowed holidays in June. </p> <p>@paddyirish To Oban... Not sure how I am going to get to Bridge of Allan. After that it will be the driving route. <a href="https://ridewithgps.com/routes/31921937?fbclid=IwAR23Wpf5wyNjXepbDOa2_HRsf6QrLqKGJ3WI2RVSnsDIzm3WdBzypnZAWOE">This</a> looks like a possibility. </p> <p>@IWARTS Surely it's not going to be worse than the past two months...? </p> <p>@gembo Thanks. I can spend the night in Inverness if I arrive too late. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-324273 Tue, 10 Mar 2020 21:49:07 +0000 Roibeard 324273@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>you can camp anywhere over there, no stealth required</em></p> <p>Legally yes, however the family and I got chased off a field in Barra, and severely scowled at on the machar on South Uist. Apparently we were despoiling the landscape and depriving the hoteliers...</p> <p>We cut the holiday short by 50%, although that was mostly due to poor weather rather than unfriendly locals.</p> <p>Robert </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-324268 Tue, 10 Mar 2020 21:28:16 +0000 minus six 324268@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>i've done the same route as you @bill, albeit with an extra two days for scenic diversions and a hilleberg akto for flexible overnighting. you can camp anywhere over there, no stealth required</p> <p>ullapool to inverness bad bad driving guaranteed </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-324262 Tue, 10 Mar 2020 20:48:32 +0000 LaidBack 324262@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Could stay at the Gatliff Trust hostel on Berneray. Views towards Harris. People kayaking.<br /> Daughter of LB still rates as best tandem trip ever. Walk out the blackhouses and right on beach.<br /> Assume it is still no advance booking and honesty box but was in early 2000s.<br /> Mr &amp; Mrs LB &amp; daughter did same route but took two weeks stopping in Barra for a week to attend Barrafest.<br /> Went to Callanish. Used bus once (they take bikes in hold).<br /> Bailed out at Garve on way back to get direct train back to Edinburgh (ran one then and we had folding tandem and solo).<br /> Is a brilliant journey and we want to do again 20 years later. (Daughter 12000 miles away now though) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-324258 Tue, 10 Mar 2020 20:29:14 +0000 gembo 324258@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Some thoughts - 4 days is quite tight. Ullapool you will come off the ferry - with the traffic. Fine let it go. The seafood shack is good for lunch and the ice cream shop is good.</p> <p>You will need to take care on that road there are maniac drivers.</p> <p>Berneray is beautiful. The stretch from leverburgh to tarbet is beautiful then lunar.</p> <p>If you know where to look at the start of the causeway from north uist to bernaray there is a very ancient cross carved into the stone. You will cycle through Solas where i used to holiday in north uist. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-324257 Tue, 10 Mar 2020 19:57:05 +0000 paddyirish 324257@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Bill, sounds absolutely wonderful. Hope you get favourable weather.</p> <p>I think some sections of the road from Ullapool to Inverness are unpleasant for cyclists. e.g. see <a href="https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/a835-ullapool-inverness.7264/">here</a> for suggestions and <a href="http://www.cyclingscot.co.uk/up-to-ullapool.html">here</a> for some amazing looking pics.</p> <p>What route are you thinking of taking to Oban? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-324255 Tue, 10 Mar 2020 18:29:30 +0000 I were right about that saddle 324255@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Things I would say;</p> <p>1) Fantastic.<br /> 2) Account for the possibility that the weather will not play ball. A headwind on Na h-Eileanan Siar is a serious impediment and if you get one you are not going as far as you think. I have seen folk on the end to end crying in an icy north wind in June.<br /> 3) Slow down and make sure you ride the sandy machair trails, not just the tarmac. Especially in May. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-324252 Tue, 10 Mar 2020 18:06:43 +0000 bill 324252@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>So I was watching "Hebrides: Islands on the edge" on BBC Scotland last night and Ewan McGregor convinced me to go for a cycle there this summer. I will be going on my own and planning to cycle through light (Audax-level light) and fairly quickly (Audax-level quickly), stay at B&amp;Bs/bunkhouses.</p> <p>So I sketched a little itinerary as follows:</p> <p>Day 1, Wed<br /> Wed night 00:00 - 12:30 Cycle Edinburgh-Oban ~130miles (may be too optimistic)<br /> Oban-Barra ferry 13:30-18:15,<br /> night at Castlebay</p> <p>Day 2, Thu<br /> Castlebay-Ardmbor cycle 9 miles<br /> Barra-Eriskay ferry 07:00-07:40<br /> Eriskay-Berneray cycle 54miles<br /> Berneray-Leverburgh ferry 17:20-18:20<br /> Night at Leverburgh bunkhouse</p> <p>Day 3, Fri:<br /> Leverburgh-Stornoway cycle 54 miles +extras<br /> Night at Stornoway</p> <p>Day 4, Sat:<br /> Stornoway-Ullapool ferry 07:00-09:30<br /> Ullapool-Inverness cycle 57miles<br /> Inverness-Edinburgh train in the evening</p> <p>Anyone has any suggestions what to do differently? </p> <p>Oh, I have never done any cycle touring... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-164237 Thu, 04 Sep 2014 02:24:15 +0000 TwoWheels 164237@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>There is at least one dicey B&amp;B on Mull. Just make sure to read the reviews before committing your $$$ to one. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-164214 Wed, 03 Sep 2014 20:32:56 +0000 gembo 164214@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Good effort.</p> <p>We had to floor it to catch the Harris ferry but knew we had made it when he overtook the citylink outside of Uig </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-164208 Wed, 03 Sep 2014 19:41:02 +0000 douglaswaring 164208@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Made it! 3hrs 50min from ferry to ferry.<br /> The section from Portree to Uig was horrible, felt like it was all uphill.<br /> Absolutely fantastic ride, Skye was beautiful. It's the 1st time I've been that it hasn't rained and I could see the hills, eagles and whales!<br /> On the downside, Citylink coaches here give you just as much room as they do in Edinburgh (though every other vehicle gave me loads of room). </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-163691 Fri, 29 Aug 2014 13:41:20 +0000 douglaswaring 163691@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Sounds like it's going to be a "fun" ride. If I miss the 7pm ferry I can catch the next one at 2 the following afternoon. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-163680 Fri, 29 Aug 2014 13:19:04 +0000 kaputnik 163680@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I did the ride from Armadale north, but only the 20 or so miles as far as Broadford where I was going to the hostel once. It was windy, rainy and misty and boy was it miserable. I was so glad to get to the hostel, even though the hot water was out and ended up with a cold shower!</p> <p>Fully loaded it was a bit of a slog, particularly as I'd had to really push it the 80-or-so miles from Oban to Mallaig earlier in the day (in the rain again) to make the only Sunday ferry I could catch, which was also the last one of the day. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-163668 Fri, 29 Aug 2014 12:44:10 +0000 douglaswaring 163668@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>So I'll be roaming in the gloaming?</p> <p>I'm optimistic that the weather will be more help than hindrance and that having spent 3 weeks riding a 20 stone bike, switching to a 1 stone bike will help me keep my average speed up high enough. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-163559 Thu, 28 Aug 2014 20:32:51 +0000 gembo 163559@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>That sounds a bit tight if wind blowing and is raining</p> <p>They don't usually leave bang on time but you never can tell</p> <p>Also bit of a ride out of lochmaddy in gloaming/darkness at other end unless your friends coming to get you. Only even remotely possible now that there is a causeway to berneray </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-163556 Thu, 28 Aug 2014 20:13:33 +0000 douglaswaring 163556@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I'm planning on a trip up to Berneray for a couple of days to see some friends, but my itinerary seems a bit tight. The ferry from Mallaig gets to Armadale at 1425 and the next ferry leaves Uig at 1900, so I have 4 hours 35 to cycle the 60-odd miles through Skye between the two. Is this do-able? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-159855 Mon, 21 Jul 2014 10:09:47 +0000 kaputnik 159855@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I did something similar last summer - train to Oban then ferry to Barra, then cycled south pount of Vatersay to Butt of Lewis Lighthouse on the northern point of Lewis.</p> <p>There's a good campsite just outside Castlebay on Barra (on the west shore). </p> <p>One thing I hadn't factored in is how heavily crofted the machir parts of the islands are - this means it can actually be quite hard sometimes to find a spot of wild ground on which to camp as most of the flat coastal plains are partitioned up into active farm land - rather than distinct villages it's endless houses dotted here and there.</p> <p>There's a good bacon roll bus in Leverburgh once you get off the ferry. Do stop in and have a chat with the owner, he cooks a mean breakfast roll and likes to chat about cycling. He wanted me to choose his new bike for him when I was there.</p> <p>Buy your ferry tickets in Advance in Oban, you'll save a lot of money buying one of the Island Hopper deals over buying lots of single fares and won't be worrying about having to buy them.</p> <p>The Uists are very flat.</p> <p>The divide between Lewis and Harris isn't water, but some thumping great hill. Be prepared for some long, steep slogs out of Tarbert. The road at the top has a very alpine feel to it, with snowpoles on each side and a lot of gravelly substrate around. I couldn't see much because of low cloud when I was up there, but made it even more atmospheric.</p> <p>Take the east coast road on Harris.</p> <p>Make sure you go to Barra Airport and watch the planes land, then go to the little chapel and graveyard on the road beyond.</p> <p>The people of Lewis drive like kamikazes, be prepared for this.</p> <p>Be prepared for endless headwinds and beautiful views.</p> <p>Shops can be far between but even the little ones are very well stocked. Call in at them all on your way past and make sure you carry extra food (especially if camping) as you may not pass somewhere for quite a while.</p> <p>Stornoway, Schmornoway, didn't really have much to commend itself to me.</p> <p>Make full use of the various power sockets on the Calmac ferries to charge your phone etc. Be first on the ferry and hunt out the table next to the socket and set up camp there. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-159853 Mon, 21 Jul 2014 10:01:20 +0000 Darkerside 159853@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Hopefully <a href="https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=210987401304302766364.0004846c003cc96b435a4&amp;msa=0">this link</a> works!</p> <p>I cycled with a mate from Helensburgh through a variety of western islands up to Thurso a few years back. We had six days to get round (and no touring experience), so ended up with very long days. Great fun, but Lewis stands out in my memory as a desolate and tedious slog.</p> <p>Most of this I'm sure is more from generous storytelling than any real hardship. We arrived in Tarbert in early afternoon and were told by the tourist office that there was nothing to do. So we pushed north (over a massive hill). I melted my trangia in a bus stop. Drizzle. The odd suicidal sheep. Lots and lots of nothing. No trees for the hammocks. Arrived in Stornoway in darkness to find nothing open. Planned to kip at the ferry terminal, but they put us on the 2am freight ferry to Ullapool where (for the princely sum of £7 each) we got a massive bown of corned beef hash and beans, sugary tea, and a cabin to snooze in for three hours. Wish I'd taken a photo of our two bikes lashed together in the middle of a lorry bay.</p> <p>As we hadn't planned to cycle in darkness we had dire lights, so threw up the hammocks in Ullapool on the first trees we could find. Woke up to find ourselves camping on what was basically a large traffic island in the middle of an estate.</p> <p>Highly recommended. You'll have stories to tell for years (like accidentally camping over a bees' hive on Skye) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-159830 Sun, 20 Jul 2014 22:03:49 +0000 spudgt2 159830@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>sweet thanks for the tips livd! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=13144#post-159809 Sun, 20 Jul 2014 10:29:10 +0000 Cyclingmollie 159809@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>Apparently some of 2001 was filmed there (Mars? Moon? I don't remember)</em></p> <p>The Stargate sequence? </p>