http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Topic: New vs old Triban 3 - interesting en Sun, 31 May 2026 06:44:51 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929&page=2#post-136265 Tue, 10 Dec 2013 11:00:22 +0000 fimm 136265@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>We have "saddle returned in the wrong place" problems with the (otherwise good) local repair man we use. Whoever does the test ride is quite a bit taller than we are... I guess if you don't mark where the saddle was you might as well let the rider put the saddle back where they want it... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-136260 Tue, 10 Dec 2013 10:39:39 +0000 kaputnik 136260@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>Gets on his bike this morning and realises they'd completely moved his saddle about?</em></p> <p>Probably from a test-ride by a mechanic with a distinctly different inside leg measurement. But never good not to put it back. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-136256 Tue, 10 Dec 2013 10:12:38 +0000 MeepMeep 136256@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>So Mr MeepMeep is back on his T3. He'd been off it for a week because the rear derailleur had clean snapped off and had jammed the chain. Fortunately he wasn't going very fast because he came to a rather sudden stop.</p> <p>We've not been too critical of Decathlon in the past, though Mike's had very different fortunes with his T3 than I have (rear cogs came away from the rear wheel which necessitated a new rear wheel under warranty and now this). This time with servicing however took the biscuit though - Decathlon no longer stock the T3 derailleur and had to upgrade so wanted to charge even though the bike remains under warranty.</p> <p>He took it in on last Monday, was told to expect a call on Thursday, still hadn't heard on Sunday, phoned Sunday and yesterday and had an argument with them over warranty obligations and then picked it up last night. Gets on his bike this morning and realises they'd completely moved his saddle about?</p> <p>Feels like the customer service is getting progressively poorer. I'm also starting to wonder whether I just got lucky with my T3 or if there's a whole heap of trouble being stored up to happen shortly after the 3 year warranty expires. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-124416 Tue, 10 Sep 2013 00:15:11 +0000 Cyclingmollie 124416@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>allebong: <em>"mostly circular with only two very small flats to get a grip with a wrench"</em></p> <p>My wheels are like that. I need two 17 mm cone spanners to adjust them. My EBC toolkit has no 17 mm spanners so I bought a set. It had one. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-124398 Mon, 09 Sep 2013 22:04:24 +0000 allebong 124398@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Update: The bike is running butter smooth now but I can tell you it wasn't like that straight out of the shop. Maybe it's because I have very high maintenance standards that I found the problems with it to put a bit of a dent on Decathlons gleaming reputation.</p> <p>The big one is the wheel bearings. Both front and back are standard cup and cone affairs. Both were quite overtight and very badly undergreased. They were also a major pain to sort out as they use these really bizarre locknuts that seem to have been put in specifically to irritate tinkerers. They're not the usual hexagonal locknuts, instead they're mostly circular with only two very small flats to get a grip with a wrench. Cue much swearing when trying to get the preload right. With them packed full of nice thick grease and properly adjusted I feel much better. I have read reports of T3 owners having problems with the back wheel bearings packing in after a while. I'm not surprised.</p> <p>Second thing was the gears. I've been haunted by those words about 'gear rubbing' as I think the bike is cursed. It's brand new and shiny and pristine, and I have buckets of experience with fettling gears, but it took me hours to get it feeling right. Essentially even with a nice straight chainline there was this slight grinding sensation that became very offputting like the chain was always trying to jump off the sprocket. I've been able to set up crappy 6 speed hack bikes to run smooth without rubbing or grinding like that. Maybe I'm getting too old for this.</p> <p>Headset was also oddly set up. I ditched the clamp thing so I could get a spacer on top of the stem (like my bikes set up like that) and found out the top cap didn't even appear to be able to press on the stem at all. The top of the steerer was absolutely flush with the stem. Again I just don't know what's going on there. </p> <p>Also the brakes really are quite terrible. The person that uses it doesn't think so as much but we'll see if that changes once we start doing longer and faster runs. It's exactly as MeepMeep describes, you can pull on the things with all your might from the drops and there just isn't that solid bite, more of a slow dragging. New and better pads for the front at least are on the agenda.</p> <p>Anyway with all that said it's still a pretty ridiculous amount of bike for the money. Very smooth and stable ride. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122357 Tue, 20 Aug 2013 09:58:00 +0000 MeepMeep 122357@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><strong>Crowriver:</strong> all these things are a-ok on the bike, the brakes are set up correctly, have the correct tension/distance to rim and are positioned correctly.</p> <p>I don't know how to describe it any better than it takes an absolute aaaaaaaaage to reduce speed and tension in the brakes are good and the brake blocks tight against the rims. Particularly noticeable coming to a stop from travelling at ~30-35mph down hills.</p> <p>In fairness, I suspect my expectations of the blocks themselves are too high for the minimal price I paid for them - after all, you get what you pay for. I just didn't have the same issue with the previous blocks bought with the bike though. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122331 Mon, 19 Aug 2013 22:49:42 +0000 crowriver 122331@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Brake stopping power also depends on adjustment. The gap between the pads and the rim should not be too large or they will feel softer. If the brake levers feel like they have to travel a long way before you come to a rest, it's worth checking the adjustment of the brakes. Fine tuning with cable adjuster barrel can also be done as the pads wear. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122324 Mon, 19 Aug 2013 21:44:37 +0000 amir 122324@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>When I were young, we'd use our shoe leather to supplement the brakes (the days of suicide brakes) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122321 Mon, 19 Aug 2013 21:23:51 +0000 Uberuce 122321@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You can get an Ultegra front brake for under fifty quid off t'lolcatwebz, and even with the stiff little fixer's ancient Weinmann levers* it'll put the bike on its nose unless I'm careful. It's only seen moderate rain, but it was still commendably grabby. </p> <p>*Lever singular, effectively, since it has no rear brake, but I put both levers on so I could put my hands on the hoods. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122315 Mon, 19 Aug 2013 20:32:10 +0000 MeepMeep 122315@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You're right in some respects about the brakes. Though I've nothing to compare it to, there is a huge gulf between braking in the dry and wet - town cycling in the pouring rain, come to think of it, is impossible to do safely above 20mph. Very anticipative riding required when the rims get wet.</p> <p>[/endsmuttyinnuendo]</p> <p>I think it's possibly the brake pad compound used in more recent builds because the brakes that originally came with my T3 were of an alright capability. It was only when Mr MeepMeep changed my blocks to new Decathlon own-brand ones bought a few weeks ago that I've noticed incredibly diminished stopping power, even in the bone dry. Nowhere near bedded in yet. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122277 Mon, 19 Aug 2013 13:09:19 +0000 Its_Me_Knees 122277@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Should have said: my T3 never had that odd clamp on it... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122276 Mon, 19 Aug 2013 13:07:05 +0000 Its_Me_Knees 122276@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@allebong "I'm hoping it'll improve when the pads get bedded in."<br /> In my experience it won't. Indeed, upgrading the pads seems to be a common first-port-of-call for T3 owners if/when they start to tinker, with everyone reporting improvements, so I guess the OEM pad materials just aren't up to much. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122258 Mon, 19 Aug 2013 11:19:54 +0000 amir 122258@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Never seen a clamp like that on the steering - perhaps they had run out of spacers?</p> <p>Quality of dual pivot brakes (and pads) can vary enormous. My 105 ones are far better than my tektro ones on the ridgeback. I am not sure if it's design or materials - I suspect the former. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122256 Mon, 19 Aug 2013 10:59:00 +0000 allebong 122256@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>So when the bike got picked up they also said you can't raise or lower the stem at all for a better fit. Again, a bizarre comment as it's a bog standard threadless headset with a good few spacers to play with. In fact all the spacers are under the stem so I think I'll move at least one to the top - I like having the stem clamping the full height of the steerer tube. There is this odd clamp, looks much like a seatpost one, right on top of the headset upper race. Random pic of a Triban <a href="http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b280/0nnie/Btwin%20Triban%203/IMG_0453.jpg">here</a> where you can see it. I'm guessing it holds headset preload so you can mess about with the stem without having to reset it - so if you did want to adjust the preload, you'd have to loosen that first. Seems like a good ideal but I've never seen it before.</p> <p>Also the cones are definitely too tight and if my experience with factory wheels is anything to go by they're also likely to be badly undergreased. Speaking of which there's no grease on any of the steam/bar/seatpost etc bolts. Not a drastic fault but I like having them all lubed up, especially with Autumn approaching.</p> <p>I had a quick blast on it the other day and I was surprised at how mediocre the brakes were. I'm used to hydraulic discs and good V-brakes so the sidepulls seemed extremely lackluster in comparison. My own drop bar bike is running a mini-v brake up front and I can quite easily have the back wheel off the ground even braking from the hood. The Triban is much, much weaker when braking from the hood and even from the drop isn't a patch on V brakes or discs. I'm hoping it'll improve when the pads get bedded in. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122250 Mon, 19 Aug 2013 09:46:57 +0000 Bhachgen 122250@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><strong>allebong </strong>- I've got a Btwin folder and felt that a few things had been overtightened on that when I got it - may be a trend among Decathlon mechanics.</p> <p>On the Shimano 2300 stuff I've got this on my Cross bike. Not quite as slick as the higher end groupsets but I've found it pretty reliable. Had the bike for about 2 1/2 years now. Recently had to replace both front and rear mechs after I succeeded in mangling them. I'm by no means an experienced mechanic so I was surprised at how easy it was to get everything set up and running smoothly again. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122140 Sat, 17 Aug 2013 18:23:48 +0000 allebong 122140@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Well the bike has been bought and looks splendid ;)</p> <p>I was in looking at red T3s in January this year and I recall closely checking out the mudguard clearance under the front fork - seemed to be very, very tight. The one we have here now appears to have much more clearance. Maybe I was imagining things, or maybe they've changed the fork slightly between production runs. At any rate I'll be looking to install full guards on it as it will be getting ridden hard through Autumn and into Winter. I'd much rather deal with full fixed guards rather than the clip ons or roadracers - anyone know if P35s or the like fit? I've heard conflicting things about it. At any rate the eyelets and mounts are there.</p> <p>From a very quick inspection I also think the cones are too tight based on how quick the wheels stop. It's a brand spanking new bike - not actually mine, though I'm sort of in charge of looking after it by virtue of having all the cycling experience in my family. And I'm already wanting to check and adjust every last nut and bolt. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122087 Fri, 16 Aug 2013 21:49:31 +0000 DaveC 122087@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>A chap at work has the T3, in red. He loves it. He used to ride a cheap MTB (no suspension - at all!! happily). I've had a good look and concur that it looks great value for the money!</p> <p>I don't think Shimano change their groupsets annually but speaking to other riders, it does appear that the groupsets make their way down the range as time goes on and new improved sets are rolled out for the pros.</p> <p>Shimano did recently announce that they brought a new bottom of the range groupset called <a href="http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/product/537152/shimano-launches-new-claris-groupset.html">Claris</a> (sth sth sth, with kidney beans &amp; a nice chianti) ... nope not that one.... The link is in the name if you want to read Cycling Weekly's article.</p> <p>Claris (also known as the 2400) was brought out to replace the 2300.</p> <p>I read on Road.cc at the time, that Microshift bought the 2300 groupset (manufacturing machinery) off Shimano to make and sell themselves, if my memory serves me right. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122028 Fri, 16 Aug 2013 09:16:04 +0000 MeepMeep 122028@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Echo all the good things said about the red T3. Other than changing the pedals to upgrade to cleats from the toe cage ones that came with it (personal choice not forced), I've not made any other modifications to mine.</p> <p>Furthest I've done on it in one day is just shy of 90 miles and it's the only bike I've got so is also used day in, day out for commuting. The only issue I can think to complain of is that the rear brake caliper and some bolts have rusted incredibly quickly but I think this could be down to the increased gritting the council did over last winter. I know that there were some concerns about something in the rear wheel (bearings?) but neither Mike or I have had issues with this yet.</p> <p>I should caveat that I've only owned two adult bikes (one mountainbike and this road bike) so I've never ridden a more expensive steed but I bought the T3 on a whim with the thought that if it was terrible, I'd at least get a year out of it before having to look for something else.</p> <p>That was 2.5 years ago and I've still nothing but praise for it - a wee cracker of a bike for practically nothing at £300. I don't think I disgrace myself on it in comparison to other ladies on Strava who are probably riding far more expensive bikes than the T3. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122013 Fri, 16 Aug 2013 07:10:37 +0000 RJ 122013@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>My Ridgeback tourer has 2300 STI levers (and a mix of other Shimano components). They're fine (and still available, even if the groupset isn't). </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122011 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 23:30:18 +0000 chdot 122011@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"much fitter ...</p> <p>... and generally more at one with the world"</p> <p>Sounds good! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122010 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 23:07:10 +0000 Its_Me_Knees 122010@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@chdot</p> <p>Way back then I had an under-used gas pipe MTB purchased a decade earlier from JJB sports, and I asked the forum what I could do with it. Quite a few folk advised minor tweaks but basically told me to live with it until it fell apart. </p> <p>Oh how I wished I'd listened... coming up for three years later and I have four steeds in the garage (latest acquisition was a mint Charge Filter off ebay) and a severe n+1 syndrome that is only kept in check by thinly-veiled threats of physical violence from the missus. That said, I'm much fitter and even a little lighter than I was three years ago (although not as light as my bank balance) and generally more at one with the world. And out of my two-wheeled menagerie, my wee T3 has definitely delivered most bangs for the buck. Happy days... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122009 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 22:34:58 +0000 chdot 122009@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@IMK</p> <p>That's a nice review. You seem to have found a bike that's ideal for you. </p> <p>When you first joined CCE I think you had something you were less happy with. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-122008 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 22:16:23 +0000 Its_Me_Knees 122008@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Proper entry level road bike for £299...can't be bad. For some (like me) it will allow occasional road riding without OTT investment; for others it will be a gateway purchase into 'sports' biking.</p> <p>Can't comment on the white one, but I've had a red T3 for around 18 months and I'm well pleased with it. So it's not a Pinarello and the groupset is not state-of-the-art and the wheels are a bit basic but I've been doing 40-50 miles on it each Sunday morning for the last few months and I've done Glasgow-Edinburgh and more recently the Tour de Forth, and it never skipped a beat. I've got Conti rubber on it now, and a Brooks saddle, but that aside it has remained standard. No hint of gear rub (whatever that is) and when I damaged the front wheel (mea culpa) the replacement was £23. There's even an owner's club: <a href="http://triban3owners.freeforums.net" rel="nofollow">http://triban3owners.freeforums.net</a>! What's not to like? :-) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-121993 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 20:20:32 +0000 chdot 121993@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Taiwanese</p> <p><a href="http://www.microshift.com.tw" rel="nofollow">http://www.microshift.com.tw</a></p> <p><a href="http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/microshift-my-experience-244338.html" rel="nofollow">http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/microshift-my-experience-244338.html</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-121992 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 20:15:56 +0000 Stickman 121992@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Uberuce - AFAIK Microshift is a Japanese company, although all the parts are Shimano compatible. The T3 has the basic gear, but their higher-end stuff seems to have good reviews. They are trying to establish their brand I think. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-121991 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 20:12:12 +0000 Stickman 121991@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've got a white T3 and I'm pretty pleased with it. </p> <p>Microshift gears took a bit of getting used to, but they are fine. Quite "clicky" on changing, and they do need a bit of adjusting now and again.</p> <p>It's a good value entry level bike for £300 and I'm having fun on mine. Having never had a road bike before I've nothing to compare it to, but I have no complaints. </p> <p>When my work's CycleScheme window opens (only once a year!) I'll be treating myself to something higher spec (some type of cyclocross I think) but the T3 will be being kept. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-121990 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 20:04:56 +0000 Dougie 121990@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I was in Decathlon recently and the assistant advised the white one was hard to sell and they were hoping to get more red ones. Bought mine on cyclescheme so went for Triban 7. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-121989 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 19:58:32 +0000 Uberuce 121989@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I understand from DaveC(so wait till he can confirm his source and my memory of his explanation) that:</p> <p>This year's Sora is actually last year's Tiagra.</p> <p>Last year's Sora is now called Microshift.</p> <p>2300 is discontinued as a Shimano product and has been sold to other companies.</p> <p>What I can confirm is that MeepMeep and Mr MeepMeep of this parish have Triban 3's and they can go like stink on them. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-121985 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 19:44:13 +0000 gembo 121985@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Red one looks better</p> <p>Shimano 2300 very entry level</p> <p>Microshift never heard of </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=10929#post-121982 Thu, 15 Aug 2013 19:37:30 +0000 Nelly 121982@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>One of my friends has the old red one - seems a good bike for the cash. </p>