http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Topic: Does anyone calculate their cost of cycling? en Sun, 31 May 2026 10:42:10 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391&page=2#post-13136 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 19:01:11 +0000 recombodna 13136@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>No I think he was cycling........ </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13135 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 17:27:19 +0000 ARobComp 13135@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Dave were those flying laps for the km record - suppose must be. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13134 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 17:01:26 +0000 recombodna 13134@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I'd imagine they're a lot more comfy on a full days ride as well. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13133 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 16:48:31 +0000 Dave 13133@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Chris Hoy set the (sea level) kilometer record at 60.7 seconds in 2004.</p> <p>The equivalent recumbent record is 66.8, but of course held by an amateur rider rather than a professional.</p> <p>So I guess you could say that the difference is whatever the difference is of 6s between a Olympic champ and an amateur... of course we don't all ride around on velodromes!</p> <p>Myself, according to the GPS I am about 3mph faster over a full day length of ride, which is not too shabby. For a commuter I like it more for the fun and the reduced traffic stress than any speed advantage though. For starters the fact that I can't scrape down the side of HGVs and dodge between buses means I'm not really as fast as a daring upright rider any more... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13132 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 16:13:14 +0000 recombodna 13132@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Having never really tried recumbants (except once in bristo square after a few ales....non starter really) are they more efficient with the pedaling and the sitting down malarky. How good are they at hill climbing?Whats the handling like? these one certainly look fast.....top speeds?? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13131 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 16:08:38 +0000 Dave 13131@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>It's so aero that I think I might have to stop wearing baggy jeans, at the risk of causing roadies' heads to explode. :) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13130 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:58:16 +0000 recombodna 13130@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Ridiculous! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13119 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 13:41:28 +0000 Dave 13119@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"Chdot i just had a very similar <a href="http://www.velokraft.com/nocom.html">thought</a>"</p> <p>Don't tempt me, please!</p> <p>I think once we have a garage, one of these two bikes is in my eventual future. The Nocom is especially neat because you can actually store your spares &amp; tools etc. *inside* the frame... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13118 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 13:15:24 +0000 chdot 13118@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>1 between clamp and headstock. </p> <p>Over 10 years old (but even so...)</p> <p>Rear chainstay cracked through too. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13116 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 13:11:53 +0000 wee folding bike 13116@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>I do know a Brompton where the only original bits are the front forks, headset, stem and seatpost!</em></p> <p>Mark 1 or 2 frame broken at the bottom bracket brace or the clamp? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13107 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:41:49 +0000 steveo 13107@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Chdot i just had a very similar <a href="http://www.velokraft.com/nocom.html">thought</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13106 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:36:24 +0000 chdot 13106@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@Dave</p> <p>Imagine if '<a href="http://www.velokraft.com/vk2.html">the object of your desire' became</a> a replacement for a BMW motorbike or open topped sports car for those with a mid-life crisis... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13105 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:25:45 +0000 Dave 13105@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>It is hard to know where to draw the line really. I think if you have a bike specifically for commuting it's obvious that the capital costs of that need to be included in the comparison with car / bus / train.</p> <p>But, for many who have only one bike (or like me, an on-road and and an off-road bike), it's not so clear cut. It seems fair to apportion 50% of running costs to commuting (if 50% of your total mileage is spent getting to and from work) but the bike itself is already owned irrespective of the job situation. </p> <p>I was going to make the argument that 50% of the capital costs should follow the same rule above, but then I realised that I specifically haven't got a new bike because I want one that is less suitable for commuting (and one is the limit of hanger space).</p> <p>So for me, the fact that I use the bike to commute on actually represents a "saving" over the notional purchase of something <a href="http://www.velokraft.com/vk2.html">more expensive</a>. Does that mean I can offset the avoided cost of a full-carbon lowracer against the running costs of the current bike? ;-) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13097 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 09:58:39 +0000 chdot 13097@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"I calculated my running costs based on the bike now being "worthless""</p> <p>Another good thing about bikes (compared with cars) is that unless you actually damage the frame its (almost) always worth replacing bits to make a machine that is still useful. </p> <p>I do know a Brompton where the only original bits are the front forks, headset, stem and seatpost! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13096 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 09:46:30 +0000 steveo 13096@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I calculated my running costs based on the bike now being "worthless" its a high mileage mid range road bike who would want it ('part from me) and tbh i probably wouldn't have it were it not for commuting.</p> <p>I didn't include clothing since i generally ride in the same shorts i'd wear in the summer any way.</p> <p>I expect Dave's low racer would hold a lot more residual value but as it costs a lot more upfront the depreciation is probably equal to the cost of my roady. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13095 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 09:38:23 +0000 chdot 13095@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Thing about depreciation is that it depends how you calculate it. </p> <p>In tax terms various bits of plant/machinery/computers etc. can be written off long before their actual useful life is over. </p> <p>If you are the sort of person who replaces a car every three years in theory it's easy to deduct the price you sell it for from what you paid and divide by 3.</p> <p>In reality with 'part exchange deals' and scrapping subsidies, it's a bit more complicated. </p> <p>With bikes even more so. Some bikes retain a reasonable value for a long time (e.g. Bromptons) others really are 'worthless' after a year or two. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13093 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 09:28:48 +0000 chdot 13093@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"But it's hard to know whether to include this since, as with the car, you'd have it anyway whether you commuted with it or not."</p> <p>Mmmm </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13087 Tue, 14 Sep 2010 09:10:48 +0000 Dave 13087@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I'm just about at the stage where I need to renovate bits of the lowracer's drivetrain, at around 3,000 miles.</p> <p>I have already replaced the chain once and the rear tyre, plus I have used one puncture patch from a puncture repair kit, and fitted new front brake pads.</p> <p>At a rough guess, chain replacement was about £20, a new tyre costs about the same (although in fact I scrounged it from LaidBack), and EBS sold puncture kits for £1, plus £10 for the brakes, making it £51 for 3,000 miles. </p> <p>I do have some chain oil which is used every month or so, I guess about £2.50-worth over the distance. Otherwise since I ride in normal clothes, there's nothing to add - that comes to 1.7p / mile.</p> <p>Once I replace the chain again (£20), the cassette (£20), and the chainring (£20) I'll be up to a shocking 3.7p / mile.</p> <p>The best alternative was the train to Rosyth (paid monthly at £112) which worked out at 15p / mile. Now that I have a shorter commute, I could do the Lothian bus pass route, for 27p / mile.</p> <p>Of course, there is the depreciation on the capital cost of the bike to consider. I reckon over the lifetime of the bike this will be, at worst, about 10p / mile. But it's hard to know whether to include this since, as with the car, you'd have it anyway whether you commuted with it or not. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13077 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 22:53:08 +0000 druidh 13077@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>More than I earn. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13075 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:21:55 +0000 chdot 13075@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@kaputnik</p> <p>Interesting set of thoughts there. Certainly show 'it's complicated'.</p> <p>"I don't think the cost of routine chain / tyre / spoke / brake block / cable / cassette replacement really adds up to that much."</p> <p>That is a whole area for debate!</p> <p>Just on the business of chain/cassette there are <em>lots</em> of factors. </p> <p>Rain/mud, lubricating/cleaning, 7/8/9/10 speed, manufacturer/'groupset quality, cycle style - steady/explosive acceleration. </p> <p>When Shimano came up with the idea of Hyperglide it was a massive improvement in gear shifting. The fact that some teeth looked worn (when brand new - inc. chainset ones) worried some people and perhaps added to concerns about 'how long they would last'</p> <p>The fact that this coincided with the early mountain bike boom where offroad/mud was a novelty for many people led to a lot of unhappy customer/bike shop conversations - 'but it shouldn't have worn out that quickly'. 'Yes sir/madam you/your child have been riding it'...</p> <p>There can also be considerations about whether to just let chain and cassette wear out together (which also risks needing new chainrings) or carefully measure chains for 'stretch' (they don't stretch, the pins and rollers wear) and replace sooner. </p> <p>As a cheapskate I'm (sometimes) willing to replace the chain even if it means one or two sprockets let the chain 'slip' under pressure until the chain wears a bit. </p> <p>In the good old days (or not...) it was easier to replace individual sprockets. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13073 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:49:40 +0000 kaputnik 13073@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>suppose it depends how you calculate depreciation, and/or whether you buy cheaper parts for an older bike</em></p> <p>My thinking is something along the lines of a bike ridden regularly and over large distances doesn't get much "shed time" where it begins to slowly deteriorate through exposure to the elements and lack of loving attention. Bikes ridden over long periods over large numbers of miles a week need to be kept well maintained and in good condition through necessity. Maintaining the drive train, bearings and cables slows down deterioration through neglect even if they are being used more. You also notice things beginning to fail a lot sooner as you are spending a lot of time together - little creaks, squeaks and strange wobbles are noticed before they get the chance to deteriorate into something much more serious.</p> <p>I also think that large amounts of miles begin to offset the effect of one-off replacements through random component failure / pothole collisions / tyre-destroying punctures / accidents etc. These can happen to any cyclist, at any time.</p> <p>Discounting purchases made in the name of improving the bike / making it look purdier / just for the sake of it, I don't think the cost of routine chain / tyre / spoke / brake block / cable / cassette replacement really adds up to that much.</p> <p>I also note that bicycle manufacturers haven't(yet) perfected the fine art of catastrophic mechanical failure the day after it runs out of warranty that car manufacturers are so skilful at. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13068 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:53:19 +0000 chdot 13068@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@ExcitableBoy</p> <p>Welcome. </p> <p>You can't be <em>that</em> excitable if you've taken the time to record such detail!</p> <p>@kaputnik "My hypothesis is that the running costs of a bike actually decrease" - suppose it depends how you calculate depreciation, and/or whether you buy cheaper parts for an older bike(?) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13066 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:46:34 +0000 kaputnik 13066@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>My hypothesis is that the running costs of a bike actually decrease (in price per miles) with the number of miles travelled. I have no evidence to offer to support this as I've yet to write a PhD to test the matter. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13065 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:36:52 +0000 ExcitableBoy 13065@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Hello All,<br /> This is my first post, please excuse dodgy username but I had no idea what to choose - everybody else's username always sounds well chosen.<br /> I have been reading this forum for several months, but held off posting.<br /> However,this is something I have calculated previously, although I have generally worked out cost per week rather than per mile.<br /> My bikes tend to last about 7 years costing about £750 including mudguards, pannier rack etc. Then the next 6 years I spend on average £ 70 per year - chains, cassettes, tyres etc. To tracel about 3000 miles per year.<br /> Total cost ~ £1200<br /> Total mileage ~ 21 000</p> <p> Cost per mile = 120000 / 21 000 = approx. 6 p/mile<br /> or approx £3.30 per week. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13052 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:38:14 +0000 1lesscar 13052@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>My daily commute is 20 miles, and I like to get out for a ride of between 50-60 miles on my days off. So in the last year I've cprobably covered somethink like 5000 miles. I've bought a chain (£25) and two wheels (£90 including new cassette and tyres), and used about 5 inner tubes that cost about £10 from Ebay. A grand total of £125. which is <strong>2.5p / mile</strong>. Not bad I suppose.</p> <p>I have ignored the value of my bike as I think this is not a running cost. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13047 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:20:43 +0000 kaputnik 13047@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've spent quite a lot recently on my road bike trying to eke out as many improvements as possible (it's 7 years old and entry-level), but always trying to keep the cost down by ordering individual components from the cheapest website and then installing them myself. It's not intended to be my commuting machine, but I've ridden it as much as possible over the last few months to get in as many pre-sportive miles as possible, and it means I can go on post-work rides directly, without having to come home first.</p> <p>I spent £450 on my single speed bike in December. Since then it's had a new saddle (a new "old" saddle that I already had), clipless pedals (again, I already had from the BSO that was being junked) and 2 new tyres (a vanity purchase, 1 red, 1 white @ £22 in total). It had a 6 week service as part of the warranty. Apart from that I've cleaned and oiled the chain, kept the bike it clean, the brakes trimmed and the tyres hard.</p> <p>As a conservative estimate I probably do about half my commuting on it, so 30 miles a week. It's also used for going round town, visiting friends and family, general posing etc. so say another 10 miles a week. January to August inclusive therefore would be 1,280 miles.</p> <p>So on purchase costs alone hat would be <strong>35p a mile</strong>. At that rate, by the end of the year it will be 23p a mile. The vanity costs for nice tyres add an extra penny a mile. These calculations doesn't include the price of bananas and porridge which are my petrol.</p> <p>A Lothian Buses bus pass (£504 / year) for me would work out at <strong>21p a mile</strong> over a year. However at the end of that, I wouldn't own a bus, I'd be late more often at work, I'd be grumpy when I got into the office and I'd still be a fat, lazy b*st*rd! :) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13045 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:12:39 +0000 cb 13045@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The following link is for electric bikes, but there are some cost per mile figures in here:</p> <p><a href="http://www.atob.org.uk/Electric_price_tag.html">http://www.atob.org.uk/Electric_price_tag.html</a></p> <p>More interesting is footnote 2):</p> <p>"Running costs are an approximate guide per mile, and are based on a number of assumptions (please note that extras such as insurance are not included). Note also that the actual energy costs are very much lower - typically 0.05p per mile! Most of the cost of running an electric bike is depreciation:</p> <p> - Depreciation of purchase price over ten years<br /> - Depreciation of battery, assuming a battery life of 500 charge cycles (nickel-cadmium or nickel-metal-hydride), or 250 cycles per guarantee year (lead-acid or lithium-ion)<br /> - Consumables, such as tyres and chains @ 2p per mile (annual mileage of 2,500 miles)<br /> - Electricity cost @ 8p per KWh </p> <p>NOTES: Annual mileage of 2,500 miles. Mileage per full charge is based on the A to B test performance. All bikes are ridden at maximum speed. Economy will benefit from more gentle use!" </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13042 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:49:26 +0000 Smudge 13042@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"...Drivers often know the (extra) cost per mile but only think of the petrol, as everything else is a 'fixed' cost - depreciation is just some sort of inevitable expense..."</p> <p>I would argue that most don't.<br /> Also bear in mind also that most drivers when asked have a wildly optomistic idea of their cars fuel consumption and don't even consider tyres, oil, servicing, VED, insurance, bulbs, fuses, coolant, screenwash etc etc.</p> <p>As an exercise whilst we were studying vehicle management a good few years ago I worked out the actual <em>true</em> cost of running the little 1 litre Mini Metro I had inherited from my family. I cannot remember off hand the final figure but with no major breakdowns and no mechanic costs (our course included vehicle engineering) and a moderate mileage of around 10k miles in a year I do remember that the total cost was more than my grant and student loan together :-o Petrol/diesel is a surprisingly small part of the cost.</p> <p>Equally, if I sat down and worked out the real cost of cycling again I'm sure it wouldn't make comfortable reading.<br /> There are ways to keep it down, but it's easy to spend!</p> <p>Will maybe add it up later..... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13041 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:42:45 +0000 Stepdoh 13041@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>weel, my bike all up is worth about £150 including maintenance clothing etc. Frame was £30, new parts I moved over about £60, other bits and bobs for the rest. </p> <p>100 miles per week to work (but not always so say 75mpw x 47 (5 weeks holiday).</p> <p>I'm about 4p a mile. </p> <p>Cos I'm in the sticks and need to also use firstbus, a weekly one-ticket would be £23, which at at neat 100 mile week would be 23p a mile.</p> <p>So my bike is nearly 6 times cheaper than the bus. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=1391#post-13040 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:28:43 +0000 steveo 13040@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>For the last year on the road bike i spent £80 on replacing consumables (chain, cassette, brake pads) plus the cost of the bike about £400.</p> <p>On an average week I ride about 60 miles, 8-10 miles a day on my commute and usually a 15-30 miles at the weekend. </p> <p>So the last year my £/m was about 16p.</p> <p>I think that was quite a lot in (replacement) parts since i've had to replace half the drive train (including a bloody freehub). </p> <p>My bus pass would cost me about 26p per mile since i only really used it for commuting. </p>