http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Topic: Seized Al seatpost en Sun, 28 Jun 2026 15:57:08 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-176126 Wed, 17 Dec 2014 23:56:17 +0000 skinnypins 176126@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@skotl - that is very kind of you to offer, thank-you. I'm near-ish, so may well PM you if the current iteration of exertions proves fruitless! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-176027 Wed, 17 Dec 2014 02:20:33 +0000 skotl 176027@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@skinnypins are you anywhere near Dalmeny/South Queensferry?</p> <p>If so, my combination of welding kit / flame gun / vice / tap&amp;die should be able to get it out.</p> <p>If the locale works for you, drop me a PM. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175958 Tue, 16 Dec 2014 13:59:27 +0000 threefromleith 175958@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Here's what I did a few years ago to remove a stuck seatpost (alu in steel frame):</p> <p>Firstly, I doused the seatpost area in WD40 and left it overnight. Then I drilled a hole through the seatpost, put a long screwdriver through it and battered the screwdriver head from the side, one way then the other, until the seatpost started to move. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175957 Tue, 16 Dec 2014 13:40:54 +0000 skinnypins 175957@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Thanks all for the suggestions! This has renewed my (previously failing) optimism that I'll get the bugger out - here's hoping! I think I'll start with copious amounts of Plusgas from both ends and go from there.</p> <p>@chdot - re. `cool-heat cycles', my approach involved a large quantity of boiling and icy water poured over the frame at intervals. I doubt it helped, but it at least made me think I was covering all avenues. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175951 Tue, 16 Dec 2014 12:43:00 +0000 biketrain 175951@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>A good friend of mine wrote up his method of removing a stuck seat post.</p> <p><a href="http://www.carlgerrard.org.uk/seatpost/">stuck seat post </a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175910 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 20:01:57 +0000 Colin 175910@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Another alternative is to lube from bottom and top, as already mentioned, then mark the post with a felt pen where it enters the frame. Remove the saddle and clamp, then get someone to hold the bike while you hammer a flat bit of wood on the top of the seat-post. This is often enough to dislodge it - check if the mark is still visible. Then more lube and twisting the seat-post will hopefully free it.</p> <p>Cheers<br /> Colin </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175899 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 18:06:33 +0000 Cyclingmollie 175899@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I think Cyclops is too modest to mention that as a dentist turned bike mechanic he is super competent in the drilling/pulling of stuck bike parts. He sorted out the crank I'd monstered onto my bottom bracket and threw in a refacing for free. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175898 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 17:43:08 +0000 le_soigneur 175898@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>After pouring in lots of release fluid, I took off the wheels(put in a dummy rear hub &amp; QR skewer for added strength) &amp; saddle rail, upside down the 531C frame, clamped the seatpost stub on a bench vice and twisted the frame. Lots of leverage between the rear dropout and the headtube, got it moving, back and forth, it got hot(so did I) but eventually it "screwed" off.<br /> Probably not suitable for full-carbon frame. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175897 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 17:39:25 +0000 chdot 175897@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"and a lot of swearing"</p> <p>Yeah - especially when you first find it's stuck! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175896 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 17:31:45 +0000 steveo 175896@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've have once removed a seized seat post it involved a little volume of ammonia and a lot of swearing. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175895 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 17:12:37 +0000 chdot 175895@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Of course the (almost) guaranteed method is a hacksaw blade. </p> <p>If you haven't got a suitable handle to make a sort of pad saw, a rag will do. </p> <p>Takes about 1/2 hr (more with a long seatpost a long way into the frame). </p> <p>EXTRA care with 531 (or similar). </p> <p>One cut is unlikely to be enough. Two close to each other should do. </p> <p>DON'T cut seatpost close to the frame ('less metal to cut') because you'll need a 'tab' to get hold of with mole grips (or pliers if you're strong enough) to start tearing away the cut strip.)</p> <p>Pull, prize, twist, lever, saw a bit more until the strip is out. Post might just relax enough to 'fall' out. More likely to need twisting - holding on to the bit you didn't cut too short... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175894 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 17:00:20 +0000 pixelmix 175894@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I sent a frame and post to <a href="http://www.theseatpostman.com/">this guy</a> when it really couldn't be removed. Knows his stuff.</p> <p>Your setup doesn't sound as bad as my carbon wrap post in alu frame issue, but if you run out of options, he'll definitely sort it out for you. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175893 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 16:47:57 +0000 chdot 175893@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"Ideally apply it to both ends of the seat post"</p> <p>Think that is important. </p> <p>I actually know someone who managed to do it with *legendary* Coke. (<em>Not</em> Diet, apparently!)</p> <p>"heat-cool cycles" - how do you <em>actually</em> do that, without a large deep freeze or damaging the paint (or both)? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175892 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 16:46:50 +0000 wingpig 175892@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><blockquote><em>"...but I'm curious if anyone's successfully used ammonia to free a post-frame combo such as this?"</em></blockquote></p> <p>I have a nice 531 frame and a non-anodised alloy seatpost. steveo supplied me some ammonia a few years ago but I've still not yet got round to having sufficient time/space/infant clearance to give it a go, but I'm angling for some time over winterfeast... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175891 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 16:39:50 +0000 Cyclops 175891@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Plusgas is a far more effective releasing agent than WD40. Ideally apply it to both ends of the seat post - you might be able to squirt it in the bottle cage bosses or you might need to remove the bottom bracket. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14115#post-175890 Mon, 15 Dec 2014 16:16:37 +0000 skinnypins 175890@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>It seems I've been a little lazy and not sufficiently greased my seatpost, with predictable results. So, I'm left with an anodised aluminium post stuck in a steel frame, and no amount of effort will make it budge. </p> <p>I'm gradually working my way down Sheldon Brown's list of things to attempt (so far, heat-cool cycles, liberal amounts of WD40 and `gently' prising the tube ears apart), and I'm currently trying to source a large wrench, but I'm curious if anyone's successfully used ammonia to free a post-frame combo such as this? Or if there are any other nuggets of wisdom folk have which might prove useful? Thanks in advance. </p>