http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Topic: Bad Advice Still Wanted. en Wed, 13 May 2026 05:37:43 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-180865 Sat, 14 Feb 2015 16:32:55 +0000 Uberuce 180865@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>That's your fear of toddlers talking, gembo. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-180805 Fri, 13 Feb 2015 20:39:45 +0000 gembo 180805@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@ubes your puppy eyes quite scary over on YouTube with that toy horse? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-180801 Fri, 13 Feb 2015 20:17:15 +0000 Uberuce 180801@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Sold to the man with the yellow trim. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-180695 Thu, 12 Feb 2015 22:19:59 +0000 kaputnik 180695@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@Beruce I'd be heartily tempted by the dynodrum, made the mistake of getting a non-dynodrum for the "winter bike" which now fails in its primary duty as simple and utilitarian by requiring external light sources. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-180694 Thu, 12 Feb 2015 22:17:09 +0000 Uberuce 180694@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Le Update: I reckoned that making puppy eyes at Hannah and Chris wouldn't work, so I suggested giving them money at their very reasonable rates, which worked a treat.</p> <p>I had to go with flat bars, which look foooogly compared to Kappers' old bullhorns, but they're better for hauling up on during the extra 8-900ft of climbing I have since moving to the Templar's digs, and that's going to matter more than the aero. </p> <p>The B&amp;M Luxos B throws out 70lux in a beam that's got the oncomer-friendly cut-off, but floods the road ahead and to the sides. I initially thought I'd wasted the ~£12 that takes you from Cyo to Luxos, but I find it oddly comforting to see the verges of unlit roads so clearly.</p> <p>I don't rate the standlight as highly as the IQ Fly that I did have, but that might just be because that was a humble 20lux, so it could be exactly as bright and I'm just confused by having over three times the drop in brightness.</p> <p>As a very minor annoyance it's really flickery when pushing the bike along. I'll miss the automagic light sensor mode of the Fly.</p> <p>Hydraulic discs, the centrepiece of the enterprise, are your classic strong, silent types. They start off underwhelming as the pads bed in, then quietly get on with the job of bringing you to a halt exactly where you want to without thinking about it. </p> <p>Does anyone want a S-A dynodrum hub and/or 36 spokes+nipples of the length to lace from said hub to a 700c rim? One abusive owner, but no apparent damage. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-180130 Fri, 06 Feb 2015 14:46:31 +0000 acsimpson 180130@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Thanks, That's my gut feeling too. It does look like the back may have a hole in the structure covered by a plastic cap, but as the cap is under the paint I've never thought it sensible to investigate. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-180128 Fri, 06 Feb 2015 14:43:07 +0000 Baldcyclist 180128@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>" is that a carbon fork?"</p> <p>@acsimpson No, it's a steel fork, I don't reckon a carbon fork would take too kindly to drilling. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-180123 Fri, 06 Feb 2015 14:25:25 +0000 acsimpson 180123@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@Baldycyclist, is that a carbon fork? My front mudguard is currently held on with zip ties as there's no bolt hole in the fork. I've wondered whether it's possible to drill it. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179980 Thu, 05 Feb 2015 14:09:56 +0000 wingpig 179980@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>My sparebike has a Phillips Saferide attached underneath the porteur rack in such a way that it can loosen and rotate all it likes without getting anywhere near any spokes. My currently-unconnected properhandlebars have a Lumotec bolted to an angle bracket clamped to the bars with an aftermarket jubilee clip, but I was going to upgrade it to being clamped to the steerer spacers or stem by a modified aftermarket Minoura Spacebar clamp. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179976 Thu, 05 Feb 2015 13:58:25 +0000 chdot 179976@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@k</p> <p>Presume you mean that as BAD advice. </p> <p>Light brackets on front forks are DANGEROUS. (Due to 'shake lose' and 'slide down taper'.)</p> <p>(Then get caught in spokes. Then.) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179975 Thu, 05 Feb 2015 13:54:22 +0000 kaputnik 179975@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Failing that, use a fugly aftermarket bracket to attach the light to the fork;</p> <p><a href="http://www.reallyusefulbikes.co.uk/_shop/bicycle-brackets/fork-leg-dynolamp-bracket/" rel="nofollow">http://www.reallyusefulbikes.co.uk/_shop/bicycle-brackets/fork-leg-dynolamp-bracket/</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179974 Thu, 05 Feb 2015 13:44:33 +0000 Baldcyclist 179974@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"...fully drilled through led me to buying a Planet X On-One cheapie. It's only drilled at the rear, which is going to make the dynolight's mounting troublesome."</p> <p>The Kaff has the same issue (I think it is the same fork as the On-one ). I just drilled a hole* through the fork to mount the light (as suggested by bike works) and all seems to be fine. At least it hasn't given way under my bulk on off road tracks as yet.</p> <p>*actually 2 holes, as Mrs Baldcyclist's eyes are not a straight as mine. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179972 Thu, 05 Feb 2015 13:39:51 +0000 Dave 179972@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Yeah, you need to get the crown race off the old fork and onto the new one. Stanley blade / small screwdriver working up to bigger screwdrivers FTW.</p> <p>Other than that you just need to cut the new fork's steerer roughly to the right length (that is to say, roughly is fine, the cut surface of the steerer doesn't touch anything - but it does need to be the right length for the spacers you're going to put on it so the headset top cap doesn't hit the fork steerer when tightened on).</p> <p>I would just drill the fork crown personally. I drilled the fork leg of my white bike to take the dynamo cable and also drilled a hole in the down tube (!) and seatpost and it's still looking perfect three years later. I've also enlarged a fork crown hole in the past with triumphant success. YMMV. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179970 Thu, 05 Feb 2015 13:37:05 +0000 steveo 179970@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>The argument for riding to Cycle Service with the fork on my back and the brakes in my pannier and making puppy eyes at Hannah and Chris seems very strong at the minute.</em></p> <p>Definitely would if I were you, installing a head set is best done with the correct tool. Whilst it took me the best part of a day to fit my hydaulic disks, I did have to cut the hose and reroute it which involved draining, refilling and bleeding both systems. It'll be a fairly painless mornings work but it'll be an hours work for the pros and since you probably want your headset done right you'll be there any way.</p> <p>Also just buy a new aheadset they're cheap. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179968 Thu, 05 Feb 2015 13:30:38 +0000 wingpig 179968@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I have a spare fork with a drilled-all-the-way-through crown, but it doesn't have disc mountings.</p> <p>Despite the entire cycling population of north-west mainland Europe not being reportedly repeatedly injured by fork-crown-mounted headlights, I'd still rather mangle my lights onto my handlebars, steerer or even the front-rack mounting-point than onto the fork crown, attached in such a place and way that would invite interaction with the wheel in the event of any loosening and rotation.</p> <p>My experience with forks and headsets is that there's a wee bit of the headset which firmly sticks to the top of the fork when you remove the fork, so if you can get that off and onto the new fork (and you have sufficient steerer length/spacers etc.) then you can re-use the existing headset. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179965 Thu, 05 Feb 2015 13:20:20 +0000 Uberuce 179965@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Hrmph. Failure to look carefully at the picture, skinflintihood and the assumption that any fork with mudguard eyelets must also have the crown fully drilled through led me to buying a Planet X On-One cheapie. It's only drilled at the rear, which is going to make the dynolight's mounting troublesome. </p> <p>I can't see how a ~2mm hole being drilled there will make any structural difference, but if wise persons say otherwise, I'll just return it now and get a Surly Disc Trucker and grumble about the extra £30.</p> <p>On a related topic: installing a fork. What's all that about? The only fork I've put in was when building the stiff little fixer, and all the bits came with it. Headsets and stuff are a bit of a mystery to me. I would imagine I just need to take wee blue floofy's current fork out and buy replacement bits, unless that's silly-early for the ~10k miles it's done.</p> <p>No-one or their monkey seemed to want to sell me SLX brakes, so rather than go down I went up to XT. The discounts were of such January-ness that it was only a tenner more anyway. </p> <p>Hydraulic brakes. What's that all about? </p> <p>The argument for riding to Cycle Service with the fork on my back and the brakes in my pannier and making puppy eyes at Hannah and Chris seems very strong at the minute. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179376 Fri, 30 Jan 2015 11:26:05 +0000 Uberuce 179376@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>If it'll fit reverse+undermounted on my bullhorns, yay, if not I have the bike's original flat bar as backup. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179364 Fri, 30 Jan 2015 10:34:29 +0000 acsimpson 179364@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Are we assuming correctly that you are riding flat bars? If not your options are fairly (very) limited for pure hydraulics. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179362 Fri, 30 Jan 2015 10:32:20 +0000 steveo 179362@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><strike>Shimano XT</p> <p>/thread</strike></p> <p>Actually, darkersider is right. SLX FTW.</p> <p>(They've been on my mtb for years lived through a couple of winters and a few off road loaded tours and I even managed to fit them myself, and you know how cack handed a mechanic I am.) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179360 Fri, 30 Jan 2015 10:27:24 +0000 Roibeard 179360@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Not Avid Juicy (3, possibly others), as they've a tendency to seize up at the pistons under commuting conditions.</p> <p>I'd suggest mineral oil rather than DOTx brake fluid, and quite like my Maguras - however some cycle shops in the city won't service them.</p> <p>Shimano do mineral oil hydraulics too.</p> <p>Robert </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179330 Thu, 29 Jan 2015 20:31:24 +0000 Darkerside 179330@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Shimano SLX.</p> <p>Next! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=14300#post-179329 Thu, 29 Jan 2015 20:28:13 +0000 Uberuce 179329@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I'm now dissatisfied with the braking on wee blue floofy; the Sturmey-Archer dynohub has been a stalwart companion for the last two years and has had exactly two pieces of maintenance, both complete in under a minute with a few turns of a spanner, but it's not quite grabby enough for my new, faster, hillier, semi-rural commute. I still recommend the hub for a cheap way of converting a non-disc bike to an urban commuter.</p> <p>Thus, I will be getting a new disc fork and disc dynohub and make the jump to hydraulics.</p> <p>What hydraulics should I get, Mr and Mrs CCE Hivemind? </p>