http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Topic: Chucking the front mech en Thu, 16 Apr 2026 20:46:18 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329&page=2#post-298351 Mon, 24 Dec 2018 21:34:47 +0000 LaidBack 298351@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@cyclingmollie - <em>the 'narrow wide' teeth profile the chain which has inner and outer plates...<br /> I can see how that would work but couldn't the tooth/chain synchronisation get messed up from time to time?</em></p> <p>I wondered that but it meshes so well it couldn't be fitted back on wrongly. Of course it will wear and then it might. The side to side width of the wide teeth is pretty snug fit.<br /> The single chain ring is the cheapest part of my set up (being not branded by Sram).<br /> I agree though that for real low maintenance longevity a wider chain with a friction shifter makes sense. Or a decent hub gear. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329&page=2#post-298329 Mon, 24 Dec 2018 13:04:29 +0000 crowriver 298329@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I had an old EBC Courier back in the day, before it was nicked. It was good, easy to ride. Not sure I'd have wanted to attempt to climb Redstane Rigg on it mind you.</p> <p>One advantage of a single chainring is reliability and lack of fuss. I can't vouch for the durability of 11 speed cassettes as I've never owned one, but my concern would be the thin steel of Bothe cassette and the chain meaning they wear out much more quickly. Which is great for bike shops but not so great for the pocket.</p> <p>I'm old school, I like 8 speed components, they just last. And then 6 speed components - they are so robust they'll probably outlive me...</p> <p>Single chainrings and hub gears play nicely of course but that's a separate discussion. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329&page=2#post-298318 Mon, 24 Dec 2018 00:13:52 +0000 Alasdair 298318@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I’ve gone 3x to 2x to 1x1 to 1x to Rohloff and back to 1x - all on MTB. Rohloff is the most reliable and long lasting, but 1x wins it for me in weight and efficiency. I’ve not looked back, especially when having to kick the front mech down on my gravel bike and regretting it not yet being 1x. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297984 Tue, 18 Dec 2018 17:58:18 +0000 Kenny 297984@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>there can be bigger gaps between gears but I can live with that</em></p> <p>This was one of my main concerns before I bought it, but tbh I have now found that the spacing is better than on my road bike - I often find I have to jump two gears at once on that, whereas on the Boardman CX I am never in no-mans land in terms of not having a gear that works.</p> <p><em>11-46 with a 50</em></p> <p>Oh goodness me that does sound quite high. I would def agree that dropping the front to a 46 would be the way to go. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297921 Tue, 18 Dec 2018 11:43:56 +0000 I were right about that saddle 297921@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>On Sunday I was out for a wee stravaig around the Braid Hills and the Mortonhall estate.</em></p> <p>My training ground...for running. Guy clarty kind at the minute. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297920 Tue, 18 Dec 2018 11:40:33 +0000 ejstubbs 297920@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've not experienced any hint of a problem so far. In "turbo" mode my eMTB will threaten to flip me over backwards going up slopes I wouldn't have a hope in hell of riding up unassisted - even standing on the pedals my non-assisted MTB simply wouldn't move. Bear in mind as well that the eMTB weighs 25kg, what with the motor &amp; the battery. Basically, it puts a heck of a lot more torque through that rear wheel (=tension in the chain) than I ever could, and I've not had a hint of a complaint from the drivetrain.</p> <p>Of course chain maintenance will make a lot of difference on an MTB, given the sh1te and muck that gets thrown at it.</p> <p>(On Sunday I was out for a wee stravaig around the Braid Hills and the Mortonhall estate. When I got home the first thing I did was to hose the bike down. The next thing I did was to take off all my outer layers, and my wee rucksack, and chuck them in the washing machine - after rinsing the worst of the clart off in the kitchen sink first. My shoes and even my helmet needed a good rinse off in the sink, too. Last night I was giving the chain a much more thorough clean and lube, and still pulling astonishing amounts of crud out of it. Power washing it would probably have got more out first time around but it's not good for the chain link bearings, or any other bearings on the bike that happen to get a direct jet. Memo to self: look at getting an ass saver or similar saddle-height mudguard.) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297918 Tue, 18 Dec 2018 11:34:04 +0000 Cyclingmollie 297918@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>the 'narrow wide' teeth profile the chain which has inner and outer plates</em></p> <p>I can see how that would work but couldn't the tooth/chain synchronisation get messed up from time to time? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297912 Tue, 18 Dec 2018 10:22:16 +0000 I were right about that saddle 297912@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@ejstubbs</p> <p>How strong are 1x10 and 1x11 chains and cassettes? I fantasise that they must be a bit wafty. I like to have plenty steel in my drivetrain. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297911 Tue, 18 Dec 2018 10:13:57 +0000 ejstubbs 297911@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><strong>@Harts Cyclery</strong>: Phew, I don't feel such a numpty now for having spent £300 putting a compact on my CX bike last year. (It was a triple before.)</p> <p>Both my MTBs are 1x: Shimano 1x10 on the hardtail, SRAM 1x11 on the eMTB. I usually have little idea which sprocket I'm on, there's too many to keep track! Instead I use the "empirical gear indicator": if it won't change up any more then I must be on the smallest, if it won't change down any more then I must be on the biggest. That is a nice thing about 1x: no niggling worries about cross-chaining. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297890 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 23:27:17 +0000 LaidBack 297890@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>After a slow start this thread really got going, Thanks to all...</em></p> <p>@Cyclingmollie @iwrats Yes - the 'narrow wide' teeth profile the chain which has inner and outer plates. This saves chain falling off on single ring bikes. It's what my daughter's Dawes Duchess 7 speed bike would have benefited from. I lost count of the number of times it dropped off front ring causing her hands to get oily (some teenage girls aren't so relaxed about getting oil on hands and clothes!). I did shorten chain and it worked better. Then bike got nicked so someone else's problem.<br /> Same problem dogged the Courier and people fitted chain keepers as the tension of a rear mech alone wasn't enough.</p> <p>@Harts Cyclery - good overview - of course having a mech and compact double allows a rapid ratio change when traction is an issue. </p> <p>@Kenny and @Others too many to name.<br /> Nice to hear the pros and (few) cons. We had Hungarian carbon company wanting to fit 11-46 with a 50 on front. This is too high for practical use on a recumbent (yes I did say that!). Maybe 46T could be useable but @nobrakes near Gala found it far too optimistic - and he's 20 years younger than me.<br /> Goes back to 'ring sizes matter' in the marketing of a bike. As someone said, for many the big ring is used less than 20% of the time and generally with little power into it as it's topping up a downhill or level tailwind. Middle chain rings of 42 or 39 get hammered. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297869 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 18:50:00 +0000 Harts Cyclery 297869@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Dave, GX Eagle is bloody excellent and more than a match for your recumbents if my MTB set-up is anything to go by.</p> <p>Front derailleurs are dead for MTB and gravel. But Euro (Belg/Dutch) crossers will keep using front mechs (so they can change ratio quickly in the gloop) and road will have front mechs for the rest of time. </p> <p>There are no chain retention issues on the road and the small gaps and big range is essential to efficient bunch riding, coupled with slow climbs and fast descents that you get in road racing. However, many leisure road riders may start moving to 1x, because big gaps aren't a big deal if you're not racing. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297867 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 18:33:20 +0000 I were right about that saddle 297867@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>What is a narrow wide ring?</em></p> <p>I assumed this was tech chat and was too ashamed to ask. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297857 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 15:31:09 +0000 Arellcat 297857@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>They're made by Schrödinger Inc. They are a superposition of sizes when you buy them, and only upon fitting to the bike are they either suitable or unsuitable. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297855 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 15:18:11 +0000 Cyclingmollie 297855@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>It initially came without a narrow wide ring </em></p> <p>What is a narrow wide ring? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297844 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 13:10:14 +0000 Murun Buchstansangur 297844@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Are 1x chainrings cheaper, relatively speaking, that their double or triple counterparts? Have always found replacing chainrings inordinately expensive compared to cassettes (which are often cheap as chips unless very high spec). </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297841 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 13:05:17 +0000 wingpig 297841@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I suppose I <em>could</em> replace the freehubs on my three surviving rear wheels to allow me to move up to *10 or *11 whilst still using my bar-end eight-speed shifter in friction mode if ranges like 10-42 are going to be available, but I'll probably wait until the two nine-speed cassettes in the cupboard have been installed and used up. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297835 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 12:05:47 +0000 mcairney 297835@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The Boardman CX is a beast and fantastic value for money in that it fits in under the C2W scheme. The one compromise is that there can be bigger gaps between gears but I can live with that.</p> <p>EDIT: The one downside is the wide-range cassette can be a bit pricey to replace compared to a standard cassette</p> <p>I did have a Revolution Courier with an 8-speed and I did find that it's range was a bit narrow- it definitely would have benefitted from an extra gear at each end (though this would no doubt have significantly increased it's cost given it was only about £300-ish) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297832 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 11:56:29 +0000 Juanito 297832@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I love the 1x on my pinnacle arkose. Even like the bar end shifter that makes it all work. </p> <p>It initially came without a narrow wide ring on front and a chain keeper. The chain keeper broke off a year or two ago, and I dropped chains almost daily until I took a few links out the chain and popped a narrow wide on. </p> <p>Range is okay, as I only really commute on it. 38t at front and 11 x 36 at back (10 speed). Thinking about getting a 11 x 42 cassette as shimano make a cheap (ish) one, increasing the size of the front ring to stop spinning out, but then I'm not sure I need or want to go faster. </p> <p>Talking of spinning, the gaps between gears seem okay, but I have found lately that it's often much more efficient to almost spin out before gearing down. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297825 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 10:57:57 +0000 earthowned 297825@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I had an old EBC courier as well which dropped the chain always at the worst possible moments. I'm sure it did it on purpose. I put a dog tooth chain catcher on which helped.</p> <p>I've now got a SRAM 1x11 set up which has never dropped a chain in 2 years of use. Jinxed it now haven't I? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297822 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 10:49:25 +0000 Cyclingmollie 297822@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>My tyen year old EBC Courier came with a one by eight. It used to drop the chain a lot until I replaced the chainring, mech and cassette with better quality ones. I think bottom gear is 40x34. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297821 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 10:39:35 +0000 ARobComp 297821@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I run one by on my MTB . I'm about to order a Sunrace 11-46 which should run with my shimano set ups. the 46 should allow me to ride up vertical things. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297819 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 10:26:31 +0000 steveo 297819@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Looking at getting SRAM 1x11 for the CDF can't get the range I want with my current mix of Sora and mtb kit. I like the CDF but its too high geared for off-road trips with luggage. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297815 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 09:53:23 +0000 I were right about that saddle 297815@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The last time a front mech died on me I didn't have a spare so I just stuck the chain on the middle ring and took it off awaiting the replacement. 12-34 8-speed cassette. Didn't really miss it round town apart from the swoop down Minto Street and one wee bit uphill if I had shopping. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297814 Mon, 17 Dec 2018 09:49:36 +0000 fimm 297814@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>No front mech seems to be way things are going on mountain bikes, according to mr fimm. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297804 Sun, 16 Dec 2018 22:46:44 +0000 prog99 297804@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've used a courier for the last 3 1/2 years with no issues. Don't miss the extra range and the chain and cassette definitely lasted longer. Shame they don't make them any more. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297752 Sat, 15 Dec 2018 22:39:08 +0000 Kenny 297752@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@LaidBack</p> <p>Ok, so I have a Boardman CX Bike. Got it when my previous CX (which I use for commuting, and never for CX) got nicked, that was a Cannondale CAADX. </p> <p>Honestly, this Boardman is absolutely fantastic, the brakes are tremendous, but the 1x11 (44T) combined with the 10-42T cassette gives me all the range I need. Yes, my Cervelo has a higher top end speed but how often do you really get in that gear? And I can easily maintain 25mph on the flat on the top gear of the Boardman (if no headwind, obvs ;) ), while the smallest gear gets me up the steepest hill no bother.</p> <p>I absolutely hate front mechs, so going without one is a dream. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297537 Wed, 12 Dec 2018 14:52:46 +0000 LaidBack 297537@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@deckard112 Yes - spinning out is downside. Sram trying to plug that with 10t.<br /> Front mechs on road bikes are in spray zone so seem to be prone. On recumbents they stay cleaner but you carry two and half chains to get 'the power' to back wheel!</p> <p>@wingpig With bike trade they start with high price stuff in new format but prices come down. A 10 speed single ring bike with 11-36 on back could be ok for practical use. 5 bolt chainring set up could be a 39t. With friction shift you could run by feel alone. XT stuff though lasts and stays in tune. Equivalent hub gear would be Alfine I suppose.<br /> One forumer has a Nuvinci hub and that's 380 % of range. (now Envelio). </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297533 Wed, 12 Dec 2018 14:31:08 +0000 deckard112 297533@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've recently bought a bike for winter training/commuting which has the SRAM 1x Rival groupset. Took a bit of getting used to but it works well. It has a 44 front ring and 42/11 rear cassette, main 'issue' I've noticed is you'll start to spin out above 35mph (so on a descent really) and there are larger gaps in the gear changes at the lower end although that's not troubled me really.</p> <p>My main reason for going this way was less mechanical issues to worry about over winter with road crud/salt so only one derailleur to clean. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297532 Wed, 12 Dec 2018 14:23:36 +0000 LaidBack 297532@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@Kenny<br /> Any sort of opinion is good!<br /> Are front mechs going to be history on all formats? E-bikes don't need them. Lightweight road bikes neither - or do they? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=19329#post-297530 Wed, 12 Dec 2018 14:19:47 +0000 wingpig 297530@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I almost never use the inner and outer rings on my geared bike, but never got further than having a chainguard in place of the outer ring for a year or so prior to my last drivetrain replacement. Even though changing the front gear was clunky (sometimes requiring nudging the chain with a toe) I would like the option of a lower gear for situations like hills-with-child-on-seat or bagsful-of-shopping-when-under-the-weather. </p>