http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Topic: Xyz spaceframe reumbent trike en Wed, 13 May 2026 02:45:48 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-357028 Mon, 22 Nov 2021 08:13:20 +0000 steveo 357028@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>:)</p> <p>It is actually a very useful tool to have available, just pretty bulky in my wee shed! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-357027 Mon, 22 Nov 2021 00:06:54 +0000 Arellcat 357027@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>Ended up having to buy a pillar drill</em></p> <p>I'm failing to see any problem with this situation. :) I've only had mine a month and it's been amazingly useful. Only took a couple of hours to make a replacement pulley cover cutout switch adjustable prong thing, then it was good to go. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-357026 Sun, 21 Nov 2021 22:01:35 +0000 steveo 357026@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Sooooooo...</p> <p>Finally made some progress, fabricated the bottom bracket assembly. Ended up having to buy a pillar drill and inverter for the shed to get the accuracy. Plan is to epoxy the bb into this and screw it to the frame.</p> <p>Not sure if there is any way to make sure it's aligned or how much wiggle room I have before it gets irritating/fails.</p> <p><a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/szDVJSCPnYhwynHM7" rel="nofollow">https://photos.app.goo.gl/szDVJSCPnYhwynHM7</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350391 Thu, 06 May 2021 17:03:18 +0000 steveo 350391@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Yeah, I would probably replace it with a couple of lengths of stainless steel after I got everything built. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350390 Thu, 06 May 2021 16:55:16 +0000 crowriver 350390@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I would suggest making the dropout from plate steel rather than aluminium. A square or rectangular piece. Drill holes away from the dropout end to bolt through your box section aluminium. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350389 Thu, 06 May 2021 16:43:39 +0000 steveo 350389@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>That wheel arrived, hit another snag.</p> <p>The axle needs to go through 50mm of aluminium section, 25mm at each side. The axel is only 135mm wide minus the hub at 100mm Its a bit of a problem. One solution is to use a m9 bolt as the axle with lock rings to hold it but this hub has sealed bearings so can't just move the races to where they're needed.</p> <p>Another thought I had was to make a dropout out of some 6mm plate aluminum for the wheel to sit in and bolt this to the rest of the fork assembly. This would mean moving the pivot point back from where it is on other xyzs and i'm not sure how much of a difference that would make to the steering.</p> <p>Unless there is some way of setting the bearing positions I'm not aware off, this picture would suggest he has over come this exact issue with a bolt.</p> <p><img src="https://cargobikemag.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/xyz-ole-martin-31219.jpg"> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350282 Mon, 03 May 2021 20:44:59 +0000 steveo 350282@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Cool thanks. These things seem easy enough to service. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350278 Mon, 03 May 2021 19:37:28 +0000 Arellcat 350278@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>About as cheap as you'll probably find:</p> <p><a href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133683817378" rel="nofollow">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133683817378</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350245 Sun, 02 May 2021 22:42:32 +0000 steveo 350245@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Cheers crowriver, I'll keep an eye on ebay. I've got a decent 26" with a disk for the time being. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350242 Sun, 02 May 2021 22:06:00 +0000 crowriver 350242@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@steveo worth checking fleaBay as I'm pretty sure there will be drum brakes available on there. Indeed I see a few Pashley Mailstar/Pronto front wheels being sold complete with drum brake. A couple appear to be new. Can find the levers etc. there too.</p> <p>EDIT - These may be 70mm rather than 90mm. As Arelicat mentions, Practical Cycles have a couple of left or right side mount 90mm hubs in the fleaBay store. Don't you need the more conventional one though? Here's one: <a href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123794958168?epid=1665703970" rel="nofollow">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123794958168?epid=1665703970</a></p> <p>No sign of the rear cassette hubs though you're using a disc brake there right? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350239 Sun, 02 May 2021 21:42:05 +0000 steveo 350239@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Cheers allercat, the sa seems to be out of stock through out the UK.</p> <p>@crowriver I'm hoping to add a motor and battery so don't really want a dynamo. Running leds of a battery able to propel me should run forever! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350237 Sun, 02 May 2021 20:24:58 +0000 Arellcat 350237@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>If you want plain Sturmey drums, either 70mm or 90mm – I'd go for 90mm if you can — you may have to import them. SJS Cycles is out of stock, although they do have the <a href="https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-archer-front-hubs/">hub dyno versions</a>, for a price.</p> <p>Ginkgo is, I understand, now shipping to the UK again, at least for anything about 20" rim sized and smaller. <a href="https://www.ginkgo-veloteile.de/ginkgoshop/en/Wheel-Accessories/Hubs/front-Hubs/Sturmey-Archer-X-FD.html">70mm is €55</a>; <a href="https://www.ginkgo-veloteile.de/ginkgoshop/en/Wheel-Accessories/Hubs/front-Hubs/Sturmey-Archer-Front-Wheel-Hub.html">90mm is €65</a>, no doubt now excluding duty and VAT, though they should knock off their own equivalent of VAT first.</p> <p>I thought Really Useful Bikes might have something but their website is becoming rather useless. Practical Cycles seems to have minimal stock advertised (on eBay) but may be worth phoning. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350235 Sun, 02 May 2021 20:13:05 +0000 crowriver 350235@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>+1 for SA drum brakes. </p> <p>These are on my Pashley Pronto and they are very solid. Hardly any maintenance required. Front hub also has a dynamo integrated so that takes care of the front light too. Worth considering. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350232 Sun, 02 May 2021 19:14:58 +0000 steveo 350232@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Cheers laidback I'll keep an eye out for sa drum brakes instead.</p> <p>Decent progress yeah. I suspect the rest will be small victories taking a lot of time to complete. 80/20 rules strikes again. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350229 Sun, 02 May 2021 18:49:31 +0000 LaidBack 350229@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Drum brakes are good - 90mm Sturmey Archer. @chdot cargo bike has these I think. Roller brakes can overheat - first UA we sold had that as Dutch spec and not really suitable for laden bike on long downhill. All been Shimano disc since then. Traditional Bakfiets sold here use Magura hydraulic disc or rim (although not keen on hot and worn rims).<br /> Sounds like you are making good progress. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-350227 Sun, 02 May 2021 17:45:51 +0000 steveo 350227@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Got all the easy stuff finished today, cargo bin is a bit on the small side I think. First mod will be building it up a bit more especially after seeing an urban arrow up close. (cargo bike envy) </p> <p>Looks like it's going to rain all week so that's probably as much as I'm going to get done for a bit though I'm out of bolts, big washers and aluminium tube so I'll have time for bits to arrive.</p> <p><a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2aLHJpeR4WVrVKW7" rel="nofollow">https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2aLHJpeR4WVrVKW7</a></p> <p>Made the headset out of hmwpe, a fancy, slippy and tough plastic. I think it'll hold and saves the question of how to seal the various bearing surfaces. </p> <p><a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/xJv5yDqRJdvycbSC9" rel="nofollow">https://photos.app.goo.gl/xJv5yDqRJdvycbSC9</a></p> <p>Need to have a think about front brakes. I'm thinking roller brakes since they're more self contained than discs.</p> <p>Going with a conventional drive train, cassette and mech plus a disk on the rear. If this rides I'm going to electrify it so need to keep that pretty vanilla. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-349980 Sun, 25 Apr 2021 13:32:11 +0000 crowriver 349980@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"use the headset for the steering somehow." Could just use the forks. Connect rods via the wheel dropouts maybe. Would need some kind of articulated connection, but could be a simple vertical eyelet/rod joint.</p> <p>Agree that maybe using head tube to connect to cargo platform seems sensible. Could just run two parallel square section tubes horizontally, then a retaining section perpendicular to these goes behind head tube, between top tube and down tube, or if a single spar step through, just snug up against back of head tube. Bolt securely with long bolts through the square of the retaining section for extra strength? Could double all these square tubes up if extra strength required. To stop cargo section rotating laterally you might need to brace against down tube somehow, maybe some extra square tubes running from platform and clamped there. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-349977 Sun, 25 Apr 2021 13:00:53 +0000 steveo 349977@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've seen bikes based on this approach I think the safest approach is to weld them together. Put a 90° post from the head tube to join to the cargo bucket and use the headset for the steering somehow. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-349976 Sun, 25 Apr 2021 12:06:12 +0000 crowriver 349976@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Thinking about it, you could even keep the forks on, use them to connect to the steering rods for the front wheel at the front of the cargo platform. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-349966 Sat, 24 Apr 2021 22:39:30 +0000 crowriver 349966@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>+1 to neddie's approach. Frankencargobike! Or if you like a reverse Xtracycle...</p> <p>Remove forks from an old step-through 26" frame, e.g. an MTB or hybrid. If it has an intact drivetrain, even better. Bodge a connection to the cargo carrying front end, e.g. using stainless steel adjustable hose clamps/duct clamps. Adapt the steering mechanism accordingly. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-349959 Sat, 24 Apr 2021 20:36:44 +0000 neddie 349959@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Can't help thinking the whole of the rear half of this bicycle should be made of a old bike, with the square ally tubing to make a new front-end... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=3#post-349958 Sat, 24 Apr 2021 20:16:49 +0000 steveo 349958@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I was thinking about the old frame approach, but I'm not sure how I'd attach it. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=2#post-349957 Sat, 24 Apr 2021 19:18:18 +0000 wingpig 349957@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>A²: acquire an old frame with an intact BB shell and brace the chainstays and down/seat tubes against other things. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=2#post-349956 Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:30:09 +0000 steveo 349956@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The bottom bracket assembly went as well as expected. Really badly!</p> <p>Even with the plates held together the hole is on a slight run and when I space it out across the frame the bb is quite badly skewed. Plus the 35mm hole saw is too big so the bb just slides in and out, the threads are no where near the plates. </p> <p>My options as I see it are,<br /> A) pay someone to cnc it<br /> 2) buy a bb shell for frame building (which won't help it being skewed)<br /> Iii) get access to a drill press and a hole saw much closer to the size of a bb. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=2#post-349797 Tue, 20 Apr 2021 22:49:13 +0000 steveo 349797@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Thinking ahead. Any safety concerns using the same approach for the handlebar? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=2#post-349796 Tue, 20 Apr 2021 22:35:53 +0000 steveo 349796@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Thanks @arellcat I missed the photos in the second link that confirms your thinking.</p> <p>I reckon I'll epoxy the seat post into a square tube then adjust using a qr in the other two square tubes to clamp it up.</p> <p>@crowriver yeah I missed that the first time I looked over them. I've tried clamping a square tube with those back ones locked down and it's pretty tight!</p> <p><a href="http://imgur.com/a/S59iGs6" rel="nofollow">http://imgur.com/a/S59iGs6</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=2#post-349795 Tue, 20 Apr 2021 22:17:45 +0000 crowriver 349795@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Yeah, you can (just) see here that the seat post is inside the square profile tubing. Presume the whole thing moves up and down for vertical adjustment and is clamped by the other square tubes sandwiching it against the flat plate aluminium?</p> <p>Then a "classic" seat post clamp to hold the saddle.</p> <p><a href="https://cargobikemag.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/xyz-ole-martin-31209.jpg"><img src="https://cargobikemag.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/xyz-ole-martin-31209.jpg"></a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=2#post-349794 Tue, 20 Apr 2021 21:49:45 +0000 Arellcat 349794@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Judging by <a href="http://www.n55.dk/NEWS/W1.jpg">N55's image here</a>, and <a href="https://cargobikemag.com/xyz-cargo-danske-byggeklosser/">the images on cargobikemag</a>, there is some piece of seatpost banged into the square section.</p> <p>BMX seatposts are traditionally 22.2mm throughout, so you can use a conventional seatpost clamp on top. I'd probably buy one and chop it down to four or five inches long, file some flats on it to bring it into size for the square tube, and either cut a traditional slot on the rear of the square tube to match with the primary QR clamp arrangement, or make it a sliding fit and epoxy the post into the square tube. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=2#post-349789 Tue, 20 Apr 2021 18:43:23 +0000 steveo 349789@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>So I was having a think. The square tube internal dimensions are about 21mm there is a saddle clamp like above for 22.2mm.</p> <p>What about getting a 21mm tube, maybe even a small length of stainless for the strength, and shimming the top of the tube to fit the seat clamp?</p> <p>Or get a 7/8" tube and file down a 100mm length to fit the 25mm square tube. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=20523&page=2#post-349745 Mon, 19 Apr 2021 12:14:20 +0000 wingpig 349745@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I did once have an old saddle-clamp saddle and seatpost lying around but they might have gone back to the Bike Station years ago. I'll check the shed/loft... </p>