http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Topic: Braking on the hoods en Tue, 26 May 2026 11:51:42 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291&page=2#post-35970 Fri, 22 Jul 2011 08:41:38 +0000 cb 35970@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I remember on my Falcon Firefly (5-speed 'mini-racer') that the suicide levers had to be pulled a couple of cm above the level of the handlebars before the brakes engaged with any kind of urgency. I actually became quite adept at doing this. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291&page=2#post-35968 Fri, 22 Jul 2011 08:01:18 +0000 steveo 35968@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I'm not convinced those bikes were ever meant to be ridden on the hoods either the flats or the drops </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-35943 Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:16:42 +0000 custard 35943@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>never had a road bike but I have the yearning<br /> the brakes/drops thing made me wonder too</p> <p>do i not remember a a lad that racers had a 2nd set of brake levers horizontal to the top of the bars coming from the hoods? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-35847 Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:26:05 +0000 chdot 35847@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"my first brand new road bike, bought from Thomas Piper at Church Hill"</p> <p><a href="http://morningside.wordpress.com/2011/07/20/cycle-shops-in-morningsides">This one</a>. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34620 Thu, 30 Jun 2011 17:50:30 +0000 Smudge 34620@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Interesting thanks, I wonder if there is a way round it without resorting to a hacksaw. Hmm will have to have a think! :-) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34614 Thu, 30 Jun 2011 16:23:38 +0000 Cyclingmollie 34614@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@Smudge, I'm using Specialized "The Captain" 2.2" knobblies on an EBC Courier. The tyres are about as big as they come - for getting through the mud on the Newhailes/Brunstane path and jaunts up the Pencaitland Railway path. I've had to cut a clearance hole in the rear guard to let the v-brake run freely. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34609 Thu, 30 Jun 2011 15:26:43 +0000 cb 34609@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Braking on the hoods on my cheapo Revolution tourer is OK, but the brakes have to be fairly well adjusted (which, becuase it's my bike, they're usually not).</p> <p>/Much/ better performance when on the drops, but that's to be expected as it's basic physics, innit.</p> <p>Also have chicken levers which are very effective.</p> <p>Memo to self: need to get new brake blocks. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34607 Thu, 30 Jun 2011 14:51:43 +0000 Smudge 34607@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@Cyclingmollie, what frame/guards/tyres are you using? I've got V's on the LHT which has MASSES of tyre clearance and the v's still (just) clear the mudguards. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34603 Thu, 30 Jun 2011 14:42:52 +0000 Cyclingmollie 34603@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I have to agree with Ruggtomcat. Although I think dual pivot are adequate, disk brakes are amazing. </p> <p>My pet hate are v-brakes. I can never centre them because they don't clear the tops of the mudguards. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34534 Wed, 29 Jun 2011 18:44:53 +0000 ruggtomcat 34534@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>canti's for the fail, unless its direct pull. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34467 Wed, 29 Jun 2011 10:47:27 +0000 riffian 34467@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I find dual pivot calipers far superior to cantilevers. I have Shimano R650 (a caliper with a long drop to accomodate mudguards) and find them excellent in terms of modulation and stopping power.<br /> In comparison the Tektro (CR720) cantis I have on my tourer are pretty spongey and these are the supposedly more powerful cyclocross ones. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34455 Wed, 29 Jun 2011 10:11:47 +0000 Wilmington's Cow 34455@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Discs on my new build (which I'd hoped to finish last night, but last parts haven't arrived - and Kappers, yes, gone with the orange cables to give them a try!). </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34449 Wed, 29 Jun 2011 09:45:44 +0000 kaputnik 34449@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The 105 brakes I have on 2 bikes are very good. I have one with 105 levers and the other with Sora levers. The 105 levers are better (there's a little bit of flex in the Sora) but both provide more than adequate stopping power. I've never been impressed with the cheapo Tektro brakes that came as standard on my first road bike and singlespeed. Far too much bend in them.</p> <p>Doesn't answer the question as to "why" road bikes come with dual-pivots. I guess they just do. And they work... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34425 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 23:10:46 +0000 ruggtomcat 34425@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I <strong>love</strong> my discs. Saved me so many times already. I agree with smudge. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34421 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 16:19:19 +0000 amir 34421@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>One of my bikes has 105 brakes and is remarkably effective. The bike with Sora/Tektro is okay by not as good. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34417 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:58:49 +0000 wee folding bike 34417@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I've got 1990 Campag Cd'A Delta brakes on my racing bike.</p> <p>They can be entertaining in action and replacing the cable requires a 3.5mm allen key which is hard to find. I think there is one in this desk drawer. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34416 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:58:35 +0000 Smudge 34416@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@Steveo I think you have it there.</p> <p>Imho the idea that brakes can be too powerful is a complete red herring. On powered cycles we're at the stage of front brakes which will, depending on the road surface, lock up the wheel or stand the bike on its front wheel with only two finger pressure. Millions of accidents caused by powerful brakes are conspicuous by their abscence... in fact i feel a *lot* safer with modern brakes than I did with many earlier bikes! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34413 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:41:25 +0000 steveo 34413@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>My theory is that road bikes development is still driven by the pros and one doesn't brake in the peleton. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34412 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:40:11 +0000 wingpig 34412@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><blockquote><em>"Anyone know why road bikes still use dual pivot calipers?"</em></blockquote></p> <p>Lowness of profile?<br /> <code>[notaserioussuggestionsotrynottotakeitasone*]</code>Because they're for use on things intended to travel at speed, perhaps it's to ensure that easily-featherable smoothly gradually increasing braking force application is available to prevent millions of accidents through front-wheel-lock skids?<code>[/notaserioussuggestionsotrynottotakeitasone]</code></p> <p><em>*As might be expected, I am aware of disc brakes and their wheel-locking potential, that disc brakes can be fitted to either wheel and that the bicycles attached to such wheels can be propelled at speeds similar to the speeds at which caliper-braked road bicycles are propelled without widespread calamity.</em> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34411 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:35:24 +0000 Morningsider 34411@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I think there is a slight advantage when braking on the drops, but I almost always have my hands on the hoods and have no real problems. You just develop a different braking style - start braking earlier and roll to a stop. </p> <p>Anyone know why road bikes still use dual pivot calipers, as their performance is pretty poor - especially in the wet. Although I shudder to think how bad the caliper brakes on my Raleigh Super Equipe (my first brand new road bike, bought from Thomas Piper at Church Hill) must have been. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34410 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:16:44 +0000 steveo 34410@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Yeah i noticed a big improvement going from the no name oem callipers to 105. </p> <p>Definite leverage advantage on the drops but I still get a fright when i go from disks back to dp. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34409 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:08:14 +0000 Cyclingmollie 34409@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>If you set the levers too high (a la Lance Armstrong) it can be hard to reach them from the drops. So the best position is a compromise between the two. But the effectiveness of dual pivots depends a lot on the quality of the components. Dura Ace and some nice wheels will work a lot better than Sora for example whether operated from the hoods or the drops. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34402 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 14:53:59 +0000 Smudge 34402@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>On the tourer (fitted with V's) I almost always brake from the hoods. When I got a "road" bike I couldn't believe how poor dual pivot brakes seemed in comparison*, hence on that I mostly use the hoods but the drops if I need actually brake hard.<br /> (I've small hands but years of pulling heavy motorcycle levers so I'm probably average power/leverage overall!)</p> <p>*Will experiment with other pad compounds when the current set wear out </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34389 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 12:09:30 +0000 chdot 34389@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"(or if your brakes are not very good)"</p> <p>These days dual-pivot brakes tend to be very good so that most people/hands can brake well riding on the hoods.</p> <p>I have one bike with good quality side-pulls and these are fine for hood braking.</p> <p>I suspect that 'in the old days' the levers and brake mechs weren't optimally designed to work together well. In the olden days most bikes had steel wheels - so the brakes didn't work when it rained! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34383 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 11:14:53 +0000 Wilmington's Cow 34383@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I think there probably is a leverage benefit from the drops. In effect, having moved to mousetache bars on the Kaff, I'm braking all the time as if on the hoods. Definitely seems to stop more sharply.</p> <p>But on the hoods, with my gigantic hands, I've got no problem braking. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34381 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 11:12:20 +0000 Min 34381@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I can brake from the hoods fine under most circumstances but I go on to the drops if I think I may need to brake more firmly. I don't know that you actually get more leverage but it is certainly more comfortable as I have quite small hands. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34380 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 11:07:39 +0000 Baldcyclist 34380@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>That's a fair point Amir, can't think of the last time I used the drops, always on the hoods. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34379 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 11:05:43 +0000 amir 34379@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"Stupid compact geometry means that it's only comfortable to ride on the hoods"</p> <p>I have found it a lot easier to ride on the drops on my new bike, which although it has compact geometry, it also has a long head tube (a la sportif). </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34378 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 11:05:31 +0000 Baldcyclist 34378@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Braking on the hoods is nae bother, no need to go down to drops. Even for emergency braking you can get enough leverage on the brake. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3291#post-34377 Tue, 28 Jun 2011 11:03:51 +0000 amir 34377@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You can brake easily from the hoods. You can apply more braking pressure from the drops but this is only really needed if you are going fast downhill (or if your brakes are not very good).</p> <p>When I was young I really wanted a chopper or grifter but fortunately I got a racer. I always preferred using the suicide brakes even though they were rubbish. </p>