http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Topic: Bad Advice Wanted - New Bike en Sat, 06 Jun 2026 06:43:29 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-45026 Wed, 02 Nov 2011 02:36:38 +0000 Uberuce 45026@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>*removes stem fully, takes measurements and wrestles some more* </p> <p>Ah righto. Yes, there's no safety line, but it's in good and safe now, thankee for that tip. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-45024 Wed, 02 Nov 2011 00:54:10 +0000 chdot 45024@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"not know whether expander bolts and stems are the same length"</p> <p>Have you taken it all the way out?</p> <p>When you put it back make sure it goes in at least a couple of inches.</p> <p>It's probably too old to have a 'safety' line. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-45021 Wed, 02 Nov 2011 00:39:38 +0000 Uberuce 45021@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Oh, blimey, I didn't even notice. Yes, you can. Isn't that pretty? Thankee, kap.</p> <p>Chdot: I wrestled the stem down as far it'll go, which was only about an inch. The expander bolt at that height ends up about one inch below the underside of the top tube, but I'm n00bscummy enough to not know whether expander bolts and stems are the same length. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-45016 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 23:29:58 +0000 kaputnik 45016@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@uberuce - "nice lugwork". That is a fine machine! Can I just about make out "heron" chainwheel? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-45015 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 23:22:26 +0000 chdot 45015@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Stem looks dangerously far out of the steerer.</p> <p>You might find the pedals uncomfortable. Not sure if they are the sort without ball bearings - a bad economy measure by Raleigh. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-45014 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 23:16:35 +0000 Uberuce 45014@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Took a while to recharge my camera and go Flickry, but he looks like this:</p> <p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/69352765@N06/6303554785/" title="RupertOldShoesRS by Uberuce, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6058/6303554785_13ddecf555_m.jpg" alt="RupertOldShoesRS" /></a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44984 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:09:34 +0000 Uberuce 44984@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The light's the more common round style, so it's got more room than the one from that picture(chdot presumes correctly; that's him). I'll aim for modernising the venerable shell, methinks. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44887 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:34:10 +0000 kaputnik 44887@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I never knew there was such an art as "hacking" bicycle lights.</p> <p>Until now that is! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44886 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:29:18 +0000 steveo 44886@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I just came across the same picture. If that light is similar then you could mod an led into it with out too much work. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44885 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:28:05 +0000 chdot 44885@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Presume it's like <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/35604059@N03/5933367256">this</a> (random Flickr).</p> <p>Looks like 36h.</p> <p><em>Any</em> brakes would be better. Though greased cables and new blocks would make a difference. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44884 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:25:54 +0000 wingpig 44884@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You can always leave the bottle dynamo in place for the look and rewire modern systems into the existing light shell using a hub dynamo.<br /> Sticking a blue-white LED through something like an 81B photographic filter might take out a bit of the blueyharshness at the expense of some searing noticeability. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44883 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:22:40 +0000 chdot 44883@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"old fangled dynamo that probably has it's output in imperial units"</p> <p>Almost all dynamo were 6V 0.6A - except SA Dynohubs which were 6V 0.5A. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44881 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:16:39 +0000 kaputnik 44881@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@uberuce <a href="http://www.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-scheinwerfer/lumotec-classic.html">BuM do a "classic" LED light</a>. It is 25lux so reasonably bright and the N plus version has the standlight. Think like most BuM lights it is available for bottle dynamo and hub dynamo, but don't know if it's compatible with an old fangled dynamo that probably has it's output in imperial units. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44879 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:10:14 +0000 steveo 44879@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You can get warm white led's but I don't think there are (m)any off the shelf products, you'd have to mod something. </p> <p>What I would do is get something contemporary to the bike and add some LED's to that, much brighter and safer probably draw less from the dynamo and would look "right". Super Capacitors can be added for a couple of (dim) minutes of stand light.</p> <p>One of these:<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cree-MC-E-High-Brightness-Warm-White-LED-280-lm-minimum-350mA-Star-PCB-/270843591784?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&amp;hash=item3f0f893c68">eBay Linky</a><br /> In a circuit like this<br /> <a href="http://pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DynamoCircuits.htm#Basics" rel="nofollow">http://pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DynamoCircuits.htm#Basics</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44877 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:03:29 +0000 Uberuce 44877@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Ooh, thankee for the spot, 'dot. I'll count the holes tonight, although against my better judgement I like the current rims.</p> <p>Already had the joy of braking down Ashley Terrace in last night's shower, thankfully without traffic. The brakes didn't so much order the bike to stop so much as suggest it in such a roundabout way that there was a significant delay until the old gentleman worked out what they were talking about.</p> <p>Oh, forgot to mention: still got the original bottle dynamo and lights, which is a magnificently stupid way of lighting a bicycle but looks awesomesauce. I know I should get something to light me up when stationary, but I'm loath to have those ghastly LEDs unless someone makes them with a warmer light tone. Do such things exist? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44869 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 11:19:01 +0000 chdot 44869@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"which is a bit of a worry if it's gone far under the lug"</p> <p>Nothing to worry about with the size of tubing involved. </p> <p>Agree with S about rims. </p> <p><a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-26-x-1-3-8-ALLOY-RIMS-VINTAGE-ROADSTER-CLASSIC-TOURIST-BIKE-RALEIGH-CAPRICE-/280752555940?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;hash=item415e2807a4#ht_1605wt_689">This is what you need</a>. (I assume your bike has 36 hole rims.) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44867 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 11:08:44 +0000 steveo 44867@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Braking on a steel rim will never be what you're used to, using it in traffic in the wet is probably an experience you never want. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-44865 Tue, 01 Nov 2011 10:59:10 +0000 Uberuce 44865@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Out of date Update: Bought a Genesis DayOne in early September, now running it fixed, rawr. Winterising it the now.</p> <p>Actual Update: at Sunday's car boot sale I bought a 1976 Raleigh Esquire, a big old grandpa roadster. Restoration Project: begin!</p> <p>The frame only has a couple of rust spots, but one is at the toptube/saddle lug, which is a bit of a worry if it's gone far under the lug, I would imagine. On a shoestring budget I've read that oil-based enamel model paint from Wonderland is a good shout to cover them. Anyone disagree/agree? I'm not hugely concerned about the colours matching.</p> <p>Tyres are epic in their old and knackerinity. Good enough to ride very gingerly along the canal, but I suspect they can't take proper pressure or anything that even resembles every day riding. Replacing with some regret.</p> <p>Rims are pretty speckled with rust, but are true and have around four tonnes of metal in them. Not sure what to do with them; they look like they've got decades left, but I know I know naathing.</p> <p>The chain was a work of modern art decrying the despoiling of the ecosystem, but is now a degreased and lubed thingy for making wheels turn.</p> <p>The Sturmey-Archer 3-speed (what else) is oiled up and working okay, but the freewheel is absurdly frictiony despite all efforts so far to slicken it. </p> <p>The headset's alright. </p> <p>Handlebars are slightly pitted but otherwise fine, grips are falling off. Cork replacements are on the cards.</p> <p>Need to regrease and almost certainly replace the bearings in front hub and bottom bracket. What tools do I need for that?</p> <p>Brakes are intrinsically rubbish, although the pads look like they've been replaced not too long ago. I suspect the state of the rims isn't helping. Recabling and adjustment is on the cards.</p> <p>But before all that I need to finish off cleaning it... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-40518 Fri, 09 Sep 2011 08:54:02 +0000 Uberuce 40518@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I think the case for singlespeed is getting stronger; I think both chain and freewheel are of 1988 vintage and that pesky 2nd Law has been at them, and in the meantime the gear levers are infuriatingly on the frame, so ditching them altogether while replacing the back wheel or hub won't faze me. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-40484 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 20:36:47 +0000 kaputnik 40484@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>If it's a freewheel then the cassette has it's own set of bearings to the wheel and axle. If they all spin nicely on their own then the bearings and surfaces should be good (although regreasing never hurt anyone!)</p> <p>It's a good age, it could just be that the surfaces of the chain and the cassette are worn. The pins in the chain may also be worn / corroded leading to it not spinning smoothly.</p> <p>Replacing chain and cassette should be done at same time. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843&page=2#post-40483 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 20:04:39 +0000 Uberuce 40483@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><code><em>@Uberuce, you were actually looking for good advice, weren't you? Not bad as you said.<br /> :-)</em></code></p> <p>Busted, egads! I would have got away with it, if it hadn't been for you meddling kids and that darned dog... </p> <p>I took the back wheel off while cleaning it, and it spins around the axle perfectly slick and smooth. It's the cogs that make the grinding feel. Just now I tried eliminating the obvious and had another go cleaning out the gunk and that's made it better but not perfect. </p> <p>Same for the chain. </p> <p>The cranks have a barely detectable feeling of grind; pedals are fine. Rubbish pedals, but mechanically fine. I don't know how much is safe to ignore; they feel like it's just a couple of granules outside but lodged too deep to be flossed out by my cleaning rags. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843#post-40428 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 12:53:32 +0000 crowriver 40428@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@Uberuce, you were actually looking for good advice, weren't you? Not bad as you said. :-)</p> <p>This gritty feel to the drivetrain could be the bearings in the rear hub, or it could be the bottom bracket, or it could be your chain is dry or a bit slack/stretched. </p> <p>Try taking the back wheel off, hold the axle in both hands and spin the wheel. If it sounds or feels grindy, the hub needs to be serviced or replaced. If it's fine, check the cranks while you have the chain off the rear cogs. Spin the pedals: any play or grinding? Try and determine if it's the bottom bracket or the pedals where the issue is. If they're fine, it's probably your chain, or maybe the cogs are worn... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843#post-40395 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 10:12:22 +0000 kaputnik 40395@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>By the way here's a good diagram to describe difference of freehub / freewheel;</p> <p><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Labeled_Bicycle_Hub_Comparison-en.svg"><img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0e/Labeled_Bicycle_Hub_Comparison-en.svg/500px-Labeled_Bicycle_Hub_Comparison-en.svg.png"></a><br /> (click for big / full)</p> <p>You'll need a chain whip and a big spanner to get the cassette off. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843#post-40393 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 10:04:51 +0000 kaputnik 40393@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><em>there's still an alarmingly gritty feel to the chain and rear wheel</em></p> <p>I assume if the bike is that age then it <em>may</em> be too old to have a freehub. The "gritty" feeling will be the bearings in either the rear hub or the freewheel (or freehub). I don't know much about freewheels, but if it's the bearings in the hub you might get away with regreasing if the bearings aren't worn. If they are worn and damaged they are replacable - unless the surfaces of the hub are worn in which case you probably to replace the lot. If you can't be bothered / aren't confident most bike shops will do a hub service for not too much.</p> <p>As anth says, you need to get the chain tensioned on a single speed otherwise the chain is liable to fly off (and you lose a lot of the efficiency). You do this by either sliding the wheel fore/aft on horizontal dropouts or track ends (which you won't have).Looking at photos of Raleigh Record Sprints, it looks like you have the former, so are unlikely to need a tensioner. You will want to bolt the wheel in with tracknuts, rather than use a quick release, otherwise you're likely to find you pull the wheel forward and slacken the chain and rub the tyre on the paint.</p> <p>You can buy kits to convert the wheel to a singlespeed, basically some spacers and a freewheel sprocket so you can get the freewheel lined up nicely with the front cog. Most single speed / fixies use wider BMX-type chain, I think because it's meant to be more up to the job of taking the stresses of having it permanently tight in a big gear. Also, it looks cooler.</p> <p>I suppose you have to work out how much you want / are willing to spend, as you can get a decent fixed/single speed new for about £400 (Specialized Langster, Revolution Track, Genesis DayOne etc.) The vintage frame still looks more the part though :) If you go the full way, you could get a proper track wheel (with no dish in the spokes) with freewheel hub (or a flip flop. Or a fixed), a single cog cranket up front and new (and wider) chain. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843#post-40391 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 10:03:22 +0000 Uberuce 40391@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Oh, forgot to mention that, mea culpa; yes, it's horizontal forward facign dropouts. I read about that when doing my homework last night. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843#post-40389 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 09:49:45 +0000 Wilmington's Cow 40389@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Depends on if you can hit on the 'magic gear'.</p> <p>Basically you need the chain to be reasonably tight. If you have forward facing, or rear facing dropouts that the rear wheel fits into then the wheel can move backwards and forwards to take up slack. If they are 'vertical' (the wheel slots stright up into the frame) then unless the chain is a 'perfect' length for the gear combination then you need a chain tensioner (which is basically just like a derailleur but with only one jockey wheel).</p> <p>Would be better if I had a picture of a set-up I ran for a short time to show what I mean... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843#post-40388 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 09:47:01 +0000 Uberuce 40388@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>After giving it a good scrub down, there's still an alarmingly gritty feel to the chain and rear wheel(when freewheeling - is that the cassette?), although it's definitely benefitted. </p> <p>The biggest inhibiting factors for getting too carried away with working on it is that it's still my sister's and she reserves the right to ask for it back, and the frame's a size too small.</p> <p>I'll get some mudguards onnit pronto, though; the brakes are indeed single pivot oldies. </p> <p>My Dad lent me his Falcon Meridian hybrid until I decide what to do, and it's not fun to ride, unlike the racer. I have it out today since it was wet early, but now the troll weather's gone all nice.</p> <p>The tyres were replaced in 2004 with Schwalbe ones that look in good shape; brake pads I've replaced myself already.</p> <p>I presume this is a n00bscum question, but can you do a quick and easily reversible singlespeed conversion by removing the derailleurs and adjusting the chain's length? I think I'm due a new chain anyway and as it happens the chainline on the gear I've been using exclusively is pretty much straight. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843#post-40359 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 07:31:08 +0000 Min 40359@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Quite right too!</p> <p>"I think I'll go with crowriver's plan at first; test the water by tinkering with the racer and if I turn out to be any use then I'll build from frame, but if I turn out to be the equivalent of Homer Simpson trying to make a bowl of cornflakes(they went on fire) then plan B will be buying one of the models suggested above. "</p> <p>That sounds like a plan! I managed to rebuild an old bike mostly myself a wee while ago an am very pleased with it. I have never set a bowl of conrnflakes on fire though.. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843#post-40351 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 01:00:03 +0000 Smudge 40351@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Yup I'm there, and dressed in green/brown. The "tank" is not mine, (and btw it is a very small tank! In fact it's only an APC/AFV and not actually a tank ;-))<br /> Stop by next time and I'll explain :-)</p> <p>Oh and no dissing Min's Surly, 'tis a very nice machine (and not beige ;-) ;-P ) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3843#post-40349 Thu, 08 Sep 2011 00:17:41 +0000 Wilmington's Cow 40349@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I hadn't realised you were there, wandered past today! Are you in the full on combat kit??? Tis a ruddy big tank you've got - I promise not to diss your Surly ever again.</p> <p>Min's is still fair game though... :P </p>