http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Topic: Thinking about a ne bike... en Mon, 20 Apr 2026 01:19:09 +0000 http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874&page=2#post-53037 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 22:05:40 +0000 Baldcyclist 53037@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"<blockquote><em>Do you really need a top price low weight groupset though? The minimal saving in weight appears far out weighed by the cost you appear to be willing to pay for the new parts.</em></blockquote>"</p> <p>No! The Cervelo was a bit of a mid life crisis buy! The 'I'm now middle aged and have some disposable income' kind of buy. Instead of the convertible I bought a shiny custom built carbon thing which cost admittedly far too much. Cycling is a hobby too though, and folks spend far more on golf and other things than I do on cycling!</p> <p>Originally when I bought it I thought 'It cost a fortune, I'm going to squeeze every last penny out of it and get my monies worth', which is why it has been commuting to work come sunshine or snow for the last 3 years. Other than last year which did cost a lot (new groupset and wheels and seatpost), maintaining it although a pain hasn't been overly expensive, service, new chain and cassette every 4 months ~£240 a year + the usual tyres and stuff.</p> <p>However, one thing that does really annoy me about it, is the fact it won't take mudguards - strange, once upon a time I was of the opinion mudgaurds were for woosies.<br /> So I thought the Dolan looked like a good robust mid priced commuter, and it has SRAM and Look components/pedals, cheaper versions of what's on the Cervelo so used to them already, and shoes will work on both. It also has mudgaurds, and components probably half the price to replace than what's on the Cervelo.</p> <p>There will never be another purchase like the Cervelo though, that is a one off! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874&page=2#post-53031 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 21:58:01 +0000 Dave 53031@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>It was submitted to the April 1st issue though (or equivalent) IIRC.</p> <p>CycleScheme does now seem like a fussy way to get an interest free loan on a bike. Having said that, the government are allowing you to take out interest free loans on bikes!*</p> <p>* as ever, caveats apply. In fact CycleScheme bikes cost 10% more than the cash price, so you're getting a 10% loan but potentially paying it back over 5yrs if you take the uber extended rental, which is better than any commercial loan you can imagine. </p> <p>It only seems pants because in the olden days, you really did save 17.5% VAT and 22% basic rate (or whatever it was) and keep the bike at the end for a 50p fee... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874&page=2#post-53030 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 21:51:26 +0000 Uberuce 53030@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>If I was a bodyguard I'd throw myself in front of Instography in dramatic fashion to save him from reading that article. I read it and would have resulting knuckle scars and wall dents if I wasn't so middle class.</p> <p>It was one of those studies where personal opinions outweigh the error bars of the variable being tested. By about a bajillionty.</p> <p>The author, in my highly biased view, had decided <u>before starting the experiment</u> that a full-carb beast was worse than a retro-wank steel for commuting, and then timed himself on each type of bike. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874&page=2#post-53024 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 21:34:33 +0000 wingpig 53024@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I vaguely remember that. Not sure if he controlled fr how much effort he input. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874&page=2#post-53019 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 21:24:50 +0000 DaveC 53019@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I think he submitted it to some medical mag? though it was a year ago. His conclusion was that the weight of the rider has more of an affect than the bike. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874&page=2#post-53018 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 21:22:14 +0000 chdot 53018@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"Does no one recall that Dr who bought a £50 bike to go with his Carbon bike"</p> <p>No</p> <p>Sounds interesting. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874&page=2#post-53016 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 21:19:11 +0000 DaveC 53016@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The Cycle two work scheme has been changed slightly to take account of the reduced tax benefit. The compamy now charge a minimal rental on the bike at the end of the first year so that you keep the bike for 3 years from when you take the scheme out so residuals are negligable. But also think on, C2W only applies to brand new full price bikes. There are some savings off 2011 bikes right now.</p> <p>Do you really need a top price low weight groupset though? The minimal saving in weight appears far out weighed by the cost you appear to be willing to pay for the new parts.</p> <p>Does no one recall that Dr who bought a £50 bike to go with his Carbon bike. He cycled for a year to work deciding on which bike to take by flipping a coin. The result was no difference in his commute time. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874&page=2#post-53013 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 21:11:46 +0000 Uberuce 53013@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You can't buy unique.</p> <p>Well, you can, really. But it involves gunmen and it's unethical. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874&page=2#post-53010 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 20:30:58 +0000 steveo 53010@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I looked at the track in the sale and even getting my single speed frame at a very reasonable price and recycling many other parts it was only slightly cheaper than buying the revolution bike and only slightly better quality. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-53006 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 20:20:08 +0000 steveo 53006@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The saving of 40% is for high tax payers who keep the bike for 5 years a which point the market value drops to 5%. For the rest of us the saving is more like 25% if your employer passes the vat saving back. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-53000 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 19:37:26 +0000 chdot 53000@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>"think the *potential* saving of 40% is based on an assumption that you will get a new bike every year, and hand old one back to employer"</p> <p>The higher 'savings' were based on high earnings/tax rates. </p> <p><em>Also</em> on the notion that bike value was 5% after 2 years. </p> <p>Think that HMRC must have made a ruling... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-52999 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 19:15:08 +0000 Baldcyclist 52999@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>The Cervelo got treated to a new SRAM Force groupset about 6 months ago, so I'm hoping not to be spending any more on that for a while (other than consumables).</p> <p>I do have a full Ultegra groupset (which originally came off of the Giant, and then onto Cervelo), but brakes are shot, and so is the front mech, actually shifters are really only serviceable bit.</p> <p>Was just exploring the Cycle to work scheme which the Uni is part of. Not so sure about the advertised potential 40% saving, think HMRC have killed that!<br /> Looking at figures you would pay £483 over the 12 month hire period, followed by a payment of 25% of original cost of bike, so a total of £658 all in.<br /> Still a saving of £42 with no interest on the payments, so still good value, just not the advertised *potential* 40% saving.</p> <p>[Edit]I think the *potential* saving of 40% is based on an assumption that you will get a new bike every year, and hand old one back to employer. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-52997 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 18:54:35 +0000 kaputnik 52997@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Buy crap frame with good groupset and fit it to the Cervelo frame? (then you're back to square one with the n+1 frames. Or square two n+2 frames...) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-52992 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 18:15:39 +0000 Smudge 52992@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Or...Watch online carefully and spend the 700 on a full replacement groupset in the sales (ie at half price) and then in the spring clean up the frame and fit all new components B-) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-52977 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 17:44:11 +0000 chdot 52977@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Think you have to think about what you want from a bike in terms of reliability, weight, speed, comfort, safety (in a braking/tyre sense). </p> <p>Then decide by colour... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-52950 Fri, 13 Jan 2012 15:23:52 +0000 Baldcyclist 52950@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Have been harping on for ages about building my old Giant up as a winter hack to save my shiny 'good' (only) bike.</p> <p>After looking at prices to build back up - SRAM Apex groupset ~£400, and handlebars, and wheels, and saddle, and ..., and...<br /> I came to the conclusion this (<a href="http://www.dolan-bikes.com/road-bikes/aluminium/Sram/Preffisio%20Road%20Bike?product_id=463" rel="nofollow">http://www.dolan-bikes.com/road-bikes/aluminium/Sram/Preffisio%20Road%20Bike?product_id=463</a>) would be a better buy?</p> <p>But!... the Cervelo has now done over 10,000 miles in 3 years and the frame is still perfectly shiny, so it really just does need components renewed when they wear now (and yes they can be expensive).</p> <p>So, dilemma is...Is it <em>really</em> worth spending ~£700 on a winter bike, or do I just keep running the Cervelo into the ground as it seems to be coping fine?<br /> Only real annoyance with the Cervelo is that you can't fit mudguards because there is no clearance. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40710 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 14:01:37 +0000 Nelly 40710@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@steveo - Probably depends - the material is definitely less robust than decent steel ones. Some of the rubbishy ones on my mountain bike, the teeth can be damaged quite easily.</p> <p>Main issue for me is that you get excellent pressure from the decent ones.</p> <p>As kaputnik says, if you are at all unsure, give tracknuts a go. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40708 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 13:50:44 +0000 steveo 40708@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Wouldn't a QR acorn (?) be steel under the plastic cover? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40707 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 13:49:50 +0000 steveo 40707@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Kaputnik I'm guessing you don't think filing is going to help either then? Getting the brakes to line up might be problematic.</p> <p>The chainstay mounted tensioners seem to go for more money than i'd like to pay for a jockey wheel and an aluminium frame. I'm starting to think the track ended frame solution might be the best...</p> <p>I did consider changing to a bolt through but its a good shimano qr and I can't be bothered! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40706 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 13:48:45 +0000 crowriver 40706@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I'm using Shimano Deore skewers just now, which are enclosed cam but I'm pretty sure the nuts at either end are alloy, not steel. Steel framed bike. As a compromise I've gone for allen key head 'security' skewers, as old qr skewers with steel nuts seem tricky to find...</p> <p>We'll see if it works! If not, down to the Bike Station for some old skool QR skewers (only just seen this advice)...</p> <p>EDIT - actually my Shimano skewers <em>may</em> have steel threaded inserts, so I might have just wasted my time and money. Never mind, my hybrid can use the 'security' skewers instead... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40702 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 13:41:11 +0000 Nelly 40702@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@ crowriver</p> <p>Small addendum to mine - apart from getting enough pressure from good quality QRs, another reason steel QRs are ok is that the steel teeth can get enough purchase on the frame to hold in position.</p> <p>However, I am using these on a steel framed bike - not sure if the QR solution would have as much integrity on other materials? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40699 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 13:33:51 +0000 Nelly 40699@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@crowriver</p> <p>Yes, for SS/Fixed you can use QR - I do.</p> <p>In a nutshell (not an acorn, ho ho) you ideally want Shimano, Steel, enclosed cam QRs.</p> <p>As opposed to poncey no-name lightweight ones which would be supplied on many newer bikes.</p> <p>Alternative to ebay/LBS - as they strip many an old bike, The Bike Station usually has plenty, some are pretty decent too. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40698 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 13:30:21 +0000 kaputnik 40698@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>@uberuce that is normal, the cog and sprocket aren't perfectly circular. When tightening the chain, make sure the crank is in the position where the chain "bites", otherwise it will at worst bind on pedalling and at best will be draggy </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40696 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 13:23:45 +0000 crowriver 40696@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>Apparently for Sheldon (RIP) it's all in the quality of the 'acorn nut'. Steel is real here too, it seems. Pretty sure mine have 'crappy' aluminium 'boutique' acorn nuts, though they do have enclosed cams. So, new manly steel acorn nuts required: fleaBay/LBS here I come! </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40693 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 13:12:38 +0000 Uberuce 40693@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>This might just be new bike/n00bscum hypochondria, but when I'm turning the cranks backwards by hand there's a slight but perceptible increase in chain tension at one point in the rotation. </p> <p>Can't feel any difference when it's actually pedalling, mind. Do I run in a panic back to the shop, cradling it in my arms and screaming "My Baby! My Baby!" in the manner of plane crash cinematic mothers? </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40685 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 12:20:38 +0000 kaputnik 40685@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><a href="http://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html#k7hub">Uncle Sheldon says you can use a <em>good quality</em> QR skewer</a> </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40682 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 11:58:24 +0000 kaputnik 40682@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>You <em>can</em> use a QR on a SS if you can get it tight enough. It's just much easier to get the axle lined up straight, the chain tensioned and then fixed tightly with tracknuts.</p> <p>Track ends are easier than slopingy-slidey-forwardy-backy dropouts as there are little screws through the axle and a cup that sits around the fork of the track end that you can use to fine-tune the position fore and aft while keeping it held tightly in place until you tighten up the tracknuts. </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40679 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 11:50:08 +0000 crowriver 40679@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>I hear a lot about not using QR skewers for single speed setups. Presumably this is to stop the chain slackening if the wheel slips forward a bit. Surely if the skewers are tight enough, this won't happen?</p> <p>Just don't fancy the palaver of converting QR axles to bolt-ons... </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40652 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 00:43:47 +0000 kaputnik 40652@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6061/6138463544_af4ec78a03.jpg"></p> <p>This is what you need :) </p> http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=3874#post-40649 Mon, 12 Sep 2011 00:25:32 +0000 kaputnik 40649@http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/ <p>ah so it is a more modern frame so has a sloping-slidey-uppy-downy sorts of dropouts rather than slopingy-slidey-forwardey-backy ones, so moving the wheel around isn't really going to do much to the tension on the chain.</p> <p>In answer to your question, you <em>could</em> pull the axle down a little bit, but it's always in danger of sliding back up to the top from constant forces on it. Particularly as it is on a QR - bolted on with tracknuts is the usual setup for SS. That could mean that brake blocks are no longer aligned to the rim correctly or if it moves asymmetrically the tyre could start to rub on frame, chain gets warped...</p> <p>Are you trying to use the derailleur as a chain tensioner? I think the solution might be to use one that clamps around the chainstay and lose the derailleur. </p>