I have some spare bits from having an SKS Bluemels mudguard fitted recently but I'm not sure if I have exactly what you need. Mine needed a hole drilling to fit it and that left some bits spare. I suspect that The Bicycle Works may not have given them all back though. I will check tomorrow...
CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Stuff
Today's satisfactory bicycle maintenance
(470 posts)-
Posted 5 years ago #
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@winpig - so the bit that's broken is the bottom bridge in the mudguards (the one with two rivets, under the SKS logo in this picture:
The bit that sheared is the piece of metal riveted to the mudguard, and it's sheared parallel to, and just outside the edge of the mudguard. This means the mudguard stay on one side is waving around with nothing to secure it, but the bridge is still firmly attached to the mudguard.I could gaffer tape the two of them together, particularly if I fashion some kind of splint. I could repair them with fibreglass. I could install a new bridge (although I'd need to find one and to drill out the old one). I could just buy some new mudguards for £25, it seems rather a waste, but will probably be quicker to install.
While washing the road bike this evening after Sunday's adventures, I found that another bridge has also failed and will need to be repaired. It's obviously mudguard failure season at present.
Posted 5 years ago # -
Hmmm. How much spare stay do you have protruding beyond the eyebolt?
Splint could be made from a different type of stay, as long as it's a smallish thinnish mudguardy-shaped bit of metal. Bike Station relatively likely to have a dead mudguard you could un-pop-rivet the stay from for less that £25 but after years of spending hours futtering about with various bits of mudguard I now have less patience with them and prefer intact whole ones and some spare time.Posted 5 years ago # -
This is verging on the unsatisfactory. I want only good news stories on this thread.
BTW there is a middle ranking civil servant who has great admiration for me as I showed him the cable tie bodge for mudguards out bridge of Allan way one morning as we were both en route to the varsity from the train. Strangers but comrades
Posted 5 years ago # -
Freeing a pedal: a question. I've been able to replace my right pedal, but the left one just won't budge. (Before anyone mentions it, yes I do know it's reverse threaded). Any suggestions how to free it? - I've tried penetrating oil.
Posted 5 years ago # -
Penetrating oil can take a while to do its magic. If you have the time, give it a wee scoot every day for a week at least before giving up.
Another option is heat, use a blowtorch to heat the crank body around the pedal bolt as much as you dare before trying to unscrew it.
If all else fails, LBS.
Posted 5 years ago # -
If you haven't tried it already, use an allen key with a long handle on the pedal axle at the same time as using the pedal wrench. Helps to have 3 hands, or a friend. If that doesn't work, a 3ft length of scaffold over the handle of the pedal wrench works wonders.
Plusgas more effective than "normal" penetrating oil in my experience (and smells goooood...)
Posted 5 years ago # -
@greenroofer I have various SKS bits picked from the carcasses of broken guards for just this eventuality. If you can send me measurements of your guards and their profile of the guards ("square" or "rounded", I may have one to suit.
I don't think I've sheared that particular bridge before so there's a reasonable chance I have a spare...
(Certifiable mudguard killer here)
Posted 5 years ago # -
If you don't have a "long allen key" you can use the method of "mole grips gripping a short allen key" for additional risk of knuckle scraping.
Posted 5 years ago # -
@Colonies_Chris
Hex key or spanner?
Heating the crank with a blowlamp will help, as will penetrating oil and time.
Copaslip applied to the threads on re-assembly prevents recurrence.
Posted 5 years ago # -
It isn’t a good idea to use Copaslip, or any kind of grease on bolts, as this leads to over-torque-ing / over tightening. Especially if a torque wrench is being used, the torque settings will not be valid
Also not good to lengthen any tool as that results in rounding off the nut / Allen inset
Use liberal amounts of penetrating oil. Wait up to 24 hrs. Then use heat if still needed
I speak from experience of working on cars, where bolts can be bl***y difficult to get undone
Posted 5 years ago # -
I have just very satisfactorily replaced two more pop rivets on my road bike's front mudguard.
Posted 5 years ago # -
@greenroofer, that is the sort of story I like
Posted 5 years ago # -
Well now I don't want to start a bolt lubrication flame war but I will just point out that Shimano both manufacture anti seize and mandate its use on certain torqued components.
Might it be that their engineers have allowed for the presence of this substance in deriving the proxy torque measurement corresponding to the required clamping force in the component?
Posted 5 years ago # -
"Grandad, what did you do in the Great CCE Copaslip Conflict of 2018?"
Posted 5 years ago # -
Popped so many spokes in last week on my newish bike (B2W scheme) I took it back to the shop today and insisted they rebuild both wheels by EOD. They agreed and are not charging me... So I guess that's satisfactory?
Posted 5 years ago # -
Also, battery-powered impact wrenches* are now available at a reasonable price, which should make nut removal a doddle.
*Which I imagine perform in a similar way to "air tools" that you find in garages.
Posted 5 years ago # -
I figured out how to stop a small Ortlieb pannier squeaking when using on the mountain bike. It involved a very tightly-stretched bungee cord & some associated risk, but quite satisfying to stop making mouse noises while in motion.
Posted 5 years ago # -
I took it back to the shop today and insisted they rebuild both wheels by EOD.
I like the cut of your jib young man.
Posted 5 years ago # -
I had to look up the acronym EOD.
I presume in this context it stands for end of day, but I'm going to pretend it was actually explosive ordnance disposal.
Posted 5 years ago # -
ok Frenchy here is a good one my daughter coined
LEL
(laugh Extra Loud)
and my one see if you can guess (bit like the last round of Only Connect but with swearing)
FTFAGOS
Posted 5 years ago # -
Rebuilding the wheels using explosive ordinance disposal would be a fairly extreme case of percussive maintenance
Posted 5 years ago # -
My grateful thanks to @mediumDave, who late last night made a special detour to put a replacement mudguard bridge through my letterbox.
Posted 5 years ago # -
Nothing I could do would shift the pedal (and I don't have a blowtorch), so took it to LBS. Removed - with some effort -using heavy-duty pedal spanner (much more substantial than mine). And they applied some form of white grease (no idea what it was) to the threads before screwing in the new pedal.
Posted 5 years ago # -
Posted 5 years ago #
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Just seen pictures of @StopKillingCyclists front wheel with "Get me home" repair after someone was disturbed attempting a front wheel removal and the q/r skewer was lost - held in place with re-worked mudguard stay.
Posted 5 years ago # -
Having had a horribly sweaty rucksack area after my ride yesterday, I spent happy time this morning installing a pannier rack and bags to my 'big' bike.
Posted 5 years ago # -
Ahead of new chainring, chain and cassette arriving I removed the square taper bottom bracket on the non-drive side of my MTB and got Paul at Ace bikes to remove the seized drive side. He installed the correct replacement and the bike is good to go. Something I've been putting off for years and very satisfying.
Posted 5 years ago # -
Replaced p-word on commuter. Managed with thumbs. Fear this is because the Schwalbe marathon plus is done. Think might need to get new one at cycle service before their holiday. When is that again?
Cleaned winter bike, seems ok to be put away greased up on the hook. Inflated summer bike took it out to tarbrax tollbooth. Seems fine save rattly bottle cage.
Posted 5 years ago # -
A positive story for @gembo: a pleasant evening in the workshop with a drill, pop-riveter and a range of other tools (and using the spare part kindly provided by @MediumDave) has restored the mudguard on my commuter bike to full, duct-tape-free, working order. All the suspect rivets have been drilled out and replaced and everything is as good as new.
Posted 5 years ago #
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