CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help

Have I bought the right dynamo light?

(31 posts)
  • Started 11 years ago by Greenroofer
  • Latest reply from kaputnik
  • This topic is resolved

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  1. Greenroofer
    Member

    I've just had a dynamo light delivered from SJS cycles. I ordered the only Cyo IQ they sold. It's a "Cyo IQ Plus", and now it's arrived it's labelled 'Bottle dynamo'. It's got slightly different wiring: the hub dynamo version comes with two wire tails attached, whereas this has only one.
    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/busch-and-muller-lumotec-cyo+-60-led-headlight-with-bracket-prod18717/

    Do you know if this matters? Are the voltages the same? Can I bodge the wiring so that it works with a hub dynamo, or will I have to send it back to the shop?

    Posted 11 years ago #
  2. kaputnik
    Moderator

    Not sure, but the second pair of wires on the hub dynamo version are to run a back light off (so need taped and tied off if you aren't using one)

    Posted 11 years ago #
  3. Dave
    Member

    Don't worry! The only difference between hub dynamos and bottle dynamos as far as your light is concerned is that the hub dynamo is on all the time but the bottle can be moved on or off the tyre.

    As a result sometimes lights come in two versions - one with a switch in the light itself, and a cheaper one with no switch (in the expectation that you'll switch it off by moving the bottle dynamo itself).

    If your light has a switch then it's designed for hub dynamos but will work fine with bottles. If it doesn't have a switch (it will have 'N' in the name, IQ Cyo N or Cyo N+ for instance) then it will still work fine with a hub dynamo, but you won't be able to switch it off.

    Normally lights have one (set of) fixed wire for power in, and either a second (set of) wire for the tail light or a spade connector. However it doesn't really matter - tail lights function just fine wired into the dynamo directly.

    HTH!

    Posted 11 years ago #
  4. Greenroofer
    Member

    @Dave - thanks for that reassurance.

    For those who are interested in these things, my light only has a single cable (with two wires) coming out of it which the instructions say is for connecting to the (bottle) dynamo. It has no other connectors on it. It comes with two extra cables and some spare spade connectors. The instructions say that one of the cables can be used 'to connect the rear light to the dynamo'.

    It seems that I will have to run two cables from the dynamo (or install a junction box somewhere on the bike...)

    I'm minded not to return the light to the supplier, but I am conscious that a certain amount of bodging is going to be needed to get it to work...

    Posted 11 years ago #
  5. RJ
    Member

    No need for that. The integral 2-ply cable is for power in from the dynamo. The empty connectors are for power out to a rear lamp if you wish to use one. That might involve a trip to Maplins for cable and connectors if you want to avoid earthing the rear lamp to the frame (my preference if using a dynamo rear).
    Neither of my (hub) dynamo front lamps came with power-out cables attached, only power-in. However, if you ordered the N version and they sent one without a switch, send it back for the hub-dynamo-specific version, as bodging a switch will leave a weak spot in the circuit (from an all-weather reliability POV).

    Posted 11 years ago #
  6. wee folding bike
    Member

    I usually leave them on Senso but there might be times when you want to be able to turn it off like when you're going to a railway station. They don't like random red lights.

    Sometimes generators earth through the frame whether you mean to or not. This can cause the rear light to not work and the front one to pulse.

    Schimidt cable is reported to deal with cold weather better than ordinary cable. They use different insulation so it doesn't get as brittle. It is a bit more spendy.

    Their Edelux lamp needs shrink wrap on the rear light spade connector or it will earth through the aluminium body of the lamp. Shrink wrap is a good idea anyway to help keep out water and salt.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  7. bruce_mcadam
    Member

    It sounds to me like you've got the wrong one.

    If you fit a back light, you will have no way of turning it on and off.

    You need either of the "with switch (hub dynamo)" models from this page, but you have the "no switch or sensor (bottle dynamo)" (although it does actually have an off-switch for security). The catalogue page you linked to is a bit vague about which model they are selling.

    (Writing from experience: I have the no-switch model for my bottle dynamo, my wife has the auto sensor model for her hub dynamo. Neither of our lamps would work as well on the other bike.)

    Posted 11 years ago #
  8. DaveC
    Member

    Can you post a pic of the rear?

    I have a couple of B&M lights. The IQ similar to yours (or rather the one you hopped to get) has 4 wires out the back, 2 male (to dynamo) and 2 female (to rear light).

    I also have another B plus with spade only, Inn on right, out on left: (click to se larger image).

    The brass colour termainals are for power in/out and the silver larger terminals are to ground the light, to the bracket.

    (My personal opinion, I'd return it, and ensure I was clear about what I wanted, perhaps phone, or alternatively order from elsewhere, where you know you'll get the right one. FYI, Rose Verdunde in Germany have lots, are cheeper and with postage included are similar to the SJS price.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  9. Greenroofer
    Member

    Thanks all. I've not got a picture of my light, but it definitely only has two wires out and no other connections. The back doesn't look anything like DaveC's: the wire comes out from underneath (next to the bracket) and it's got a rotary on/off switch at the back of the light.

    The wires have male terminals on them and are meant to go into the dynamo.

    So, it clearly could work, and I'd be able to turn off the front light with the switch on it, but the rear light will be on all the time with no way to turn it off. That's a thing that hadn't occurred to me.

    I've decided to return it, and do the job properly. If you're going to spend 'you could buy a bike for that' money on just your lights, you had better do it right.

    Bizarrely, now I look again, the sjscycles website has lots of different versions of this light on it. Last time I looked I'm sure this was the only one they had.

    Thanks again for your comments: I hope to be back in due course singing the praises of my new lighting!

    Posted 11 years ago #
  10. wee folding bike
    Member

    Just been out for a wee spin on the new Brompton to check the headlight alignment. It was a bit high so I adjusted it to no longer light up people's bedrooms.

    Senso turned on when it was in Waverley so I actually had to use the switch and turn it off.

    When the Brompton back light super cap fails I might replace it with the B&M line one with a brake light and stand light override. The super cap doesn't so much fail as break loose so I could stick it back in place.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  11. Greenroofer
    Member

    SJS Cycles replaced my light without fuss. Now installed, with new wheel built by Hart's Cyclery. I've also got a rear light running off the dynamo, both with their standlight functions which work very nicely. One quite cool thing is that if I switch the front light off while it's 'charged', then when I turn it on again the back light comes on too, so I'm never without light. I'm very pleased.

    Anyhow, the purpose of this post is to ask the electrical experts about brightness...
    Question 1: I've got LED lights front and rear, both running off the dynamo. Does this make the front light dimmer?
    Question 2: Do they get brighter the faster I go, or is there some (relatively low speed) plateau beyond which something reaches its maximum and the lights don't get any brighter.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  12. DaveC
    Member

    My Cyo flickers at very low speeds, but like yours has the standlight function. The lights are LED, and as they are pulsed they should not realy dim. I wouldn't worry about the light being any dimmer with both lights on, dynamo's are very capable of supplying enough current.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  13. Cyclops
    Member

    The speed at which your dynamo light reaches maximum brightness varies depending on model of dynohub/ wheel size/ light. However it's normally quite low - I think it's about 3-4 mph for my current set-up.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  14. kaputnik
    Moderator

    Dynamo light question.

    Does anyone know if the Supernova lights use standard output voltages for the rear light?

    I have the B&M IQ Cyo front light, with the extra wires to run a rear light, and really like the look of the Supernova E3 rear light. I know the connector shapes are different, but nothing that can't be sorted by replacing the plug connectors with spade type.

    I've asked Supernova through the website but amn't sure what sort of answer I'll get (after all, they might want me to buy their very nice but very pricy front light too!)

    Posted 11 years ago #
  15. DaveC
    Member

    Dunno, but I'd love the Super Nova III These beauties are VERY bright! I rode up the A74 in May and the guy at the back of us three had one which was drowning out my IQ Cyo.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  16. kaputnik
    Moderator

    http://www.evanscycles.com/products/busch-muller/seculite-plus-rear-mudguard-dynamo-standlight-ec006386

    B&M Seculite Plus rear light mitt standlicht only £22.49 just now, and available to collect in Edinburgher. It was £30.99 on SJS cycles, and that's before postage.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  17. wingpig
    Member

    Just beats £15.52 plus £7.60 delivery on rosebikes.co.uk.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  18. kaputnik
    Moderator

    Installed the Seculite over the weekend, thought about running the cable inside the mudguard itself, but couldn't figure out how to reliably attack it, so went along the stay instead.

    Quite pleased with the results and even more pleased with the thought of never having to worry if I have a light / battery power with me.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  19. DaveC
    Member

    It is great never having to be worried about batteries again. The only problem is you'll want a dynamo light on every bike and swapping tyres over (inless you have same tyres on all bikes) is a bit of a pain.

    I have three bikes, two sets of dynamo lights and one wheel/dynamo.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  20. Instography
    Member

    Spare dynamo front wheel - that's another holiday job I'd forgotten about.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  21. Dave
    Member

    Started off wondering why anyone would ever pay for a dynamo.

    Now have four dynamos and three sets of lights (between 7 bikes).

    Slippery slope.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  22. Greenroofer
    Member

    On my way home along the towpath tonight. Due to working later than planned it was the first time it was properly dark. The new dynamo lights were working well, because they were lighting up the whole path effectively, but keeping the light nice and low down and (I hope) non-dazzling for oncoming towpath users.

    I overtook someone on a bike and as I went by she said "I wish I had lights like yours".

    Woo hoo! With that one simple phrase she made me very happy and completely justified the 'you could buy a bike for that' money that I've spent on them. :-)

    Posted 11 years ago #
  23. Snowy
    Member

    Compared with previous years, I'm noticing a significant increase in the number of dynamo lights in use along the canal of an evening.

    Definitely bright but not dazzling, which I'm assuming is due to some intelligent shaping of the lens.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  24. Dave
    Member

    It's nice when riding along to see the horizontal cut-off in action. I only really see that now half of my commute is totally unlit (canal -> WoL or Donkey Lane).

    There are still a few jokers who like to moan (although since they do that in daylight I suppose it's only to be expected at night).

    The other night I had a wonderful moment where an oncoming rider's legs from the waist down were being lit up by my light, with the sharp cut-off at his hips. Through the inky darkness above his waist I could just about see that he had his hand out to shield his eyes. There was some muffled whining going on.

    The other 100+ riders seem fine, so you just learn that some people are never satisfied IMO...

    Posted 11 years ago #
  25. kaputnik
    Moderator

    @Dave agree totally. The Dynamo light is a cold, bright light, but isn't actually shining in peoples faces. I think they see the bright light and then imagine that they are getting an un-filtered offroad MTB searchlight being pointed into their retinas so decide to have a whine.

    If I'm going en-path at night I usually add my mini-newt lamp to the bike, but pointed well down to use it to fill in the gap between the light and the wheel, as the B&M IQ Cyo R has a deliberate "blind spot" in the illumnation for the first few metres from the wheel. I'd hate to run over a frog or something worse (dog poo) and they might be lurking in the blind spot.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  26. DaveC
    Member

    Its the mudguard which creates the blind spot, no? My Cyo IQ has a light spilling straight down, but the mudguard blocks some.

    I hate bright lights dazzling me, but my cycle cap stops these when I dip my head.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  27. kaputnik
    Moderator

    @DaveC there are two types of Cyo. The "R" stands for Rad as in Road and has a different spill pattern to the other. It is taller and focuses further away, to give a longer pattern for faster road riding where you would want to see obstructions further off.

    The regular Cyo has the more marked cut-off and a flatter, brighter beam (same amount of light but focussed on a narrower area).

    Posted 11 years ago #
  28. DaveC
    Member

    Oh I recall you saying when I loked into buying my current Cyo. I don't recall seeing the option on Rosecycles.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  29. amir
    Member

    Light test with evaluation of beam shape:

    http://road.cc/content/news/97193-big-roadcc-lights-test-2013

    Posted 11 years ago #
  30. Dave
    Member

    kaputnik, according to a reputable source those versions are the wrong way around ;-)

    The 'R' versions are the ones with less light going up the road so that they can put more directly under the front wheel, as opposed to the non-R which focus it all up the road.

    Personally I find my non-R still puts enough light on the first few metres that I get a bold shadow from the front wheel / mudguard, so 'R' seems pointless. As you suggest, a second light aimed right down at your feet would be needed.

    Posted 11 years ago #

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