@o_0 I'd visit halfrauds and look for connectors. You can buy spade or perminant crimp type. Solder a good bit of wire to the PCB insde and then feed out of the light (somewhere where water can't get in - or seal with a squirt of bath sealant) and connect to the wire.
CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help
Diagnose my Dynamo Light Issues...
(61 posts)- Started 10 years ago by Wilmington's Cow
- Latest reply from wingpig
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Posted 10 years ago #
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Interesting. The wires running from the front to the rear fell out a few times form the back of the front light. So is it possible I've put them the wrong way round and they'd still put the light on at the back but create the flickering in the front?
Electronics was always the bit of physics I was rubbish at. Give me loads of theoretical maths type stuff any time!
Posted 10 years ago # -
@DaveC
cheers, i have plenty spade connectors, but its a connector on the Luxos itself that has snapped, two thirds of it is missing, making it difficult to secure a spade connector onto.
whats the permanent crimp type you refer to?
Posted 10 years ago # -
The Seculite came with some heat-shrink sleeves to cover the connectors, or you can get them in Maplin.
Posted 10 years ago # -
ah yes, that sounds perfect... cheers, done.
Posted 10 years ago # -
@WC, I'd be surprised if the back light is impacting the front but it's easily tested... unplug it!
It might be shorting out intermittently - that would account for the flickering as it loses power then picks it up again. Let's plug it into a different bike on Friday?
Posted 10 years ago # -
@o_0 I had something similar to these. I was working as a line man in the TA years and years ago and was talking to a BT lineman who was out on the same road as us. He gave me a box of 'jellies' which you pop two stripped wires in and then snap shut. The silicon gel keeps the water out.
Posted 10 years ago # -
splendid, i've ordered them for two quid, ta
Posted 10 years ago # -
Interesting. The wires running from the front to the rear fell out a few times form the back of the front light. So is it possible I've put them the wrong way round and they'd still put the light on at the back but create the flickering in the front?
Ahhhh… I've done that. Something to do with the back light shorting out via the frame and the generator being an alternator meant that the back light didn't work and the front one flashed. Have you tried swapping the back light connectors or just taking it out of the loop?
Posted 10 years ago # -
Swapped the cables over and NOTHING worked. I'll settle for always on...
Posted 10 years ago # -
As it 'appens I think I've solved it. Front light was perfect once more. Turns out one of the wires to the tail has split. I can only assume the flickering was as it frayed, maybe shorting the circuit? Anyway, need to get a new rear wire now...
Posted 10 years ago # -
I have lots of wire and some spade connectors if you want to copy my bike's attractive orange-wires-crisscrossing-the-frame look. If LB doesn't then BikeTrax probably have official wires seeing as they sell dynolights.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Kaputnik, Have you tried reversing the polarity? This always works on telly.
Posted 10 years ago # -
"Kaputnik, Have you tried reversing the polarity? This always works on telly. "
But don't do it twice.
Posted 10 years ago # -
DON'T CROSS THE BEAMS!
Posted 10 years ago # -
STReams.
Have you tried switching to auxiliary power? Isolating the reverse power flux coupling?Posted 10 years ago # -
There's a guy sells t-shirts of 'Slightly wrong movie quotes' and the idea stuck in my head ;)
Posted 10 years ago # -
"Isolating the reverse power flux coupling?"
With a sonic screwdriver?
Posted 10 years ago # -
They be a glowing red button around somewhere, possibly under some kind of lifty perspex shield.
Say something dramatic and give it a good thump. Always works.
Posted 10 years ago # -
With a sonic screwdriver?
Nah you need a Flux Decoupler. Park have one FDc-2.3
Posted 10 years ago # -
Good grief, just checked the power stats on the B+M site for the flux capacitor. 1.21 Jigawatts!!!!!
Posted 10 years ago # -
You'll need ArobCompton to run the dynamo.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Give him a big enough Chainring I'll bet he could make 88kph...
*pondering getting an old frame and a massive chainring and a flat open place and seeing how fast I can get on the flat*
Posted 10 years ago # -
My B&M Lumotec Lyt Plus on the sparebike developed a weirdness a week ago, where the light would seemingly cut out every now and then when I went over a big bump. This shortly evolved into a rattle, an absence of standlight, with the occasional occlusion of the main beam when whatever was rattling bounced up into the path of the emitter. Upon creaking it open a small metal tab and a disconnected supercapacitor were able to be removed from the casing, with the light seemingly suffering from the same disease as afflicted Mr Wilmington's. It's done less than a thousand miles but was bought fourteen months ago, though despite only buying a wheel every year or so from Rose they've said they'll send me a new one for free, which is nice.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Thats mighty good of them. Going to fix the other one? Should be easy, a bit of solder and a bit of epoxy and it'll be better than new.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Brompton generator tail lights suffered from the same capacitor mounting issue. The stand light stops working.
I've had one since July which is still working fine. It's done a couple of thousand miles. There was no bespoke option to spec a B&M tail light.
Posted 10 years ago # -
My 30-month-old Philips Saferide appears to have stopped working at some point since the weekend, though I only noticed yesterday evening when I needed to pop out after dusk. Not had time to root out the cause yet. The wiring was all replaced with the frame in February. I've fished out the boxed replacement Lumotec for performing diagnostics with seeing as my multimeter disappeared several years ago.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Further to my message of 3 months ago… the Brompton light did indeed break and has been replaced with a B&M.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Easy to diagnose my last dynamo problem: the bracket snapped and the dynamo fell off.
It was the bracket for attaching a bottle-dynamo to the front brake boss. And the second time one has failed in the same way: the thinnest part of the rim of the boss screw hole fatigued and snapped. It might be that a small wheeled bike with hard tyres being ridden over cobbles has too much vibration -- shame because it's a neat design otherwise.
I'll have to go the the Bike Station and have a rummage for a clamp bracket.
Posted 10 years ago # -
@wingpig
I've got a spare multimeter that an electrician left behind. I'll give it to TFP on Monday (or when I find it, whichever comes first).Posted 10 years ago #
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