CityCyclingEdinburgh was launched on the 27th of October 2009 as "an experiment".
IT’S TRUE!
CCE is 15years old!
Well done to ALL posters
It soon became useful and entertaining. There are regular posters, people who add useful info occasionally and plenty more who drop by to watch. That's fine. If you want to add news/comments it's easy to register and become a member.
RULES No personal insults. No swearing.
I have (hopefully) triple STI on the Dolan. I now have a 11-32 tooth cassette, which I bought to replace the original 11-28. I also have two spare front triple mechs, (Tiagra - came with the recumbent in the spares box and an Ultegra - bought in a sale)
The Driveline triple came as in the spares with the bent along with the BB. I want to fit it all together and then look at the chain line to see if the BB needs to be wider or not.
It's gonna be shoogled on a bike regardless. Bottle conditioned beers probably best avoided unless your the type of person who drinks the sediment. Some do and I don't mean that as criticism although I try to leave most of it in the bottle.
Though when I was camping in Netherlands with my bike I could carry forty bottles on the trailer and they weren't overshoogled after three miles. But that was the Netherlands and everything's better there. Except the beer.
Rattle that appeared this morning has be sourced to the mudguard flap, which is good news. Bad news is that can't make it go away.
@IWRATS, I thought you and insto were the same person due to a thread where you changed your name on here, not due to any referendum based stuff. or was it insto who changed his name? Just checked the User name thread, it all gets a bit confusing. Insto used to be someone else but further down the string he claims he used to be IWRATS.
I then changed my mind on the doppelgänger or multiple personality thing around POP because you and Insto appear to live in two totally different locations unless you move around a lot. So I am still quite confused. Will see if I can the thread. Of course one could argue that nothing is real on here. Though much is useful.
I was thinking of becoming Too Much Gambo which is a piece of graffiti in the Easter Hailes Tunnel.
However the beer bottle transporter is BOSS.
Only very minor fettling - I've just replaced my rear callipers from BB7 road to TRP spyre - also replaced the old rubbish mudguards which were held on using the pannier rack - this meant fabricating my own stays out of 3mm stainless steel round bar as the mount point for the pannier was too far away for the SKS stays to reach the mudguard - as seen here:
this means I have the original SKS rear stays if anyone wants them, and a pair of BB7 road callipers which I probably will never use…. free if anyone wants them!
Solved no end of bike rattling by simple expedient of taking 2 inches off the rear shifter cable, meaning it no longer crossed slightly over the front cable and rattle between it and the dynamo light switch which then proceeds to buzz when being slapped by the cable.
All quiet now.
Apart from that creaky Brooks saddle!
My biggest current rattle (after tightening my chainring bolts last week) is my U-lock, whose two parts rattle constantly on anything other than mythically smooth surfaces as the lock is bracketed onto the handlebars. It would only take a bit of bungee to hold the two bits together but it's not a particularly annoying rattle.
Of course, mudguard stays - I have lots of those kicking around the garage. I can make another rack crate out of oak and stainless steel. Cool.
@wingpig
I fashioned a belt loop d-lock holster out of webbing and an old car seat belt, if that would be of any use. Fine on the bike although for walking around means belt needs to be tight or breeks regularly hoiked up. Much depends on waist to hip ratio where I am at a gravitational disadvantage.
@Instography - I bought 4mm stainless round bar by mistake at first- the SKS ones are 3.5mm in fact but 3mm suffices (just) - do you want the SKS stays and any 4mm bar I can still find in the rubbish tip I call a shed?
@algo - how do you find those brakes?
My front BB7 is perfectly functional, but my rear BB5 has been un-seized already and is on it's last legs. I don't particularly like the BB7's, seem to need adjusting all the time (weekly) so have been looking for alternatives.
@baldcyclist - to be completely honest they are not a great deal different in power compared to the BB7 roads, but a lot of that might the rotors which come with it - I am going to try some ice tech rotors with it and I'll report back. They are really easy to set up though and when applied there's no flexing of the rotor due to the dual pistons. I almost went for the Hy/Rds (Can't remember why I didn't now) which have the hydraulic reservoir on the calliper and are cable actuated - hence self adjusting. They are quite bulky though but apparently very good. If you have the rear calliper on the seat stay as I do then fitting shouldn't be a problem….
(you're welcome to a BB7 to replace your BB5 for now if you like)
I replaced my rear mech cables (which has transformed the shifting, even though it had only done about 500 miles), and also took the chain off the complex return idlers of my recumbent, so instead of looking like exhibit 1 it now looks a bit like exhibit 2.
Really surprisingly better, although I now can't turn the cranks back unless the wheel is straight, less the chain falls off :)
@algo
Yes, please.
I was thinking about upgrading both my brakes to BB7s from BB5s when I had finished burning through the 5 spare sets of pads I bought earlier in the year but after the discussions on the Braking thread now think I might upgrade the front brake earlier.
I was thinking about trying a BB7 but now that I've seen the spyre perhaps that's the way I'll go. I don't think I've got the space for the hy/rd one as I expect it will get in the way of mudguard stays.
How does the adjustment on the spyres compare to the BB7s?
adjustment is very similar - each piston now has its own independent adjustment, and there is a barrel adjuster for fine tuning… once the calliper is centred it's really easy. Best thing is no static piston so no bending of the rotor.
@algo Yes please on the BB7.
@Insto My trousers already have to cope with me tethering my camera bag to a belt loop to stop it diving round my armpit into my knee-space. The lock's in a proper bracket on the bars; the rattle is able to happen as the bracket doesn't clamp the straight bit against the U-bit.
There's a sewing machine-based solution to that but I'll need to draw it later.
That's not quite as intriguing as Fermat's last theorem.
New bar tape tonight.
Its so simple.......so why do I mess it up every time?
Tonights faux pas was leaving too little on one side for the bar end......then too much on the other side.
Aaaargh. Stanley knife and black marker pen to the rescue. I never was artistic.
A big box of bike fettles arrived today.
Feeling tired and a bit grumpy (and with sore thumbs) after wrestling new 622x32 Marathon Pluses onto the bike today. It's clear, having seen the new ones, how worn the old 622x35s were. Whether they were worn or just bigger, or whether it's because the new ones were a big wonky, the old ones were much easier to put on.
As well as tired, I'm feel quite optimistic that the new narrower tyres might be a bit more lively. Hankchief (who regularly tries to persuade me to join him in unreasonable feats of sportives) implied with a raised eyebrow on Thursday that they might be my first step into the world of something other than riding a bike to work. We'll see.
Also, suspicious that my rear disc was contaminated because it was beginning to lose bite and squeal, I hosed it down with disc cleaner and scrubbed the pads with emery paper. Squealing stopped. For the moment.
Tricross rear hub stripped and cleaned, and a new cassette installed for good measure. Still got all the skin on my knuckles #win
Started stripping and rebuilding the Trucker. But first, put some mudguards on the Croix de Fer to try to save my feet and legs from a soaking (and my face from the Dalmeny sheep shit). Opened the box from Amazon (ripped it up and put it on the compost) only to find the stays were missing. Buggrit.
Still, got the Trucker cleaned, helped by some aggressive degreaser. New front wheel booted and on. New front mudguard on. Stripped the old front wheel and built a new one on the old hub.
Just out of curiosity (and so I could get it in the bin). I snapped the old rim, which I'd been thinking was worryingly concave. Turns out it wasn't that bad at all. Still plenty of metal there.
Greenroofer,
I use one of these when Marathon Plusses try to fight back,
@insto You call that worryingly concave?
Now that's worryingly concave by wingpig, on Flickr
@WFB - those look tempting. I can see that they would definitely make life easier.
In my case, the problem wasn't so much the last bit, it was getting started. The new tyres were a bit wonky, so it was hard to get the bead to stay in at the start.
Fitted a vintage child seat to my bike tonight. Made slightly more awkward by having to fashion a bracket as my rack isn't vintage.
New brake blocks all round.
Sneaking suspicion that newly reassembled rear hub bearings are ever so slightly too tight. #dammit
@wingpig
But it still looks like there's plenty of material there. I found that rim really tough to break. I was standing on the inside bouncing up and down until it finally gave. There was no way that rim was thinking about breaking any time soon.
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