A new front Open Pro wheel with a Hope hub has just arrived to replace a dodgy rimmed Aksium. I have now built quite a collection of hubs so I'll have to learn how to build wheels.
CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Stuff
with a very loud bang
(55 posts)-
Posted 10 years ago #
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I usually learn about the state of the rims through less than smooth braking, which prompts me to investigate. Might look into the CD rims for next time.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Someone else previously suggested Rigida Sputnik on my previous banjoed-wheel thread, so one of them is on its way. ERD should be within nipple-tolerance for easy transplantation.
I most recently babywiped the braking surfaces clean after canalling to Falkirk and half back and didn't spot any explicit wear indications, but perhaps the extra sideways pressure from the meatier tyre I took to Falkirk and a bit of similarly-recent extra brake-squidging to get the new pads bedded-in after replacing them (there was still at least one clear mm of rubber remaining, well before any scraping occurred) brought things to a head.
Posted 10 years ago # -
@IWRATS
Light is beginning to dawn I think - the doc you link to doesn't actually contain data about the Open Pro rim, only the Open Sport rim. I think that doc is the one I looked at some years ago when trying to figure out the wear indicators first time around (and got thoroughly confused).
After spelunking on the vile Mavic site the Open Pro actually appears to be documented here:
http://www.tech-mavic.com/tech-mavic/technical_manual/data/docs/products/2_107.pdf
I suspect the "-" in the appropriate box means that there is no wear indicator on the Open Pro rim. Nowhere does it say if there's any difference between the regular Open Pro and CD variant so I suspect that doesn't have one either.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Hmmm. I'm sure my Open Pro has an indicator. I can't remember but I think its a little milled hole to a set depth. Once that is flush with the rest of the breaking surface your rim is done. (theoretically)
Posted 10 years ago # -
I had a look at the area opposite the valve hole on the worn-out Open Pro and sure enough there's a little round hole. Worryingly I had ridden the rim past the point where the indicator on the other (more concave) side is gone. These holes are not visible on the other two newer Open Pros in the shed. But the wear indicator holes were visible from new on my RS80s and presumably I discard them when they are worn away.
Open Pro wear indicator by Cycling Mollie, on Flickr
Posted 10 years ago # -
It would seem that Wingpig's Open Pro is of a batch whereby instantaneous, catastrophic failure of the rim sidewall indicates that it might be time to replace it. (theoretically)
Posted 10 years ago # -
You never run rims past the wear indicator?
Posted 10 years ago # -
I have a fear of balloons, so the thought of a high pressure tyre (and rim) going "pop" on me means I chicken right out and probably means I replace them at only 50% wear.
Expensive habit but helps me manage my phobia!
Posted 10 years ago # -
Fair enough, I generally consider the wear indicator a lawyers interpretation of a very safe margin provided by the engineer.
Posted 10 years ago # -
I'm sure you're very right. If they didn't put the indicator on in the first place I'd probably be happier in blissful wear-state ignorance!
Posted 10 years ago # -
My open sport on the fixed has a very deep groove running the length of the rim rather than the little milled dip that I'm apparently getting confused with my shimano R500 wheels. I really want to go check my open pro cd but they're currently buried up loft.
Posted 10 years ago # -
@wingpig, I hear good things about the Rigida Sputnik. Very strong rim.
I think it's old square section Rigida rims on my Raleigh tourer (not Mavics as I misremembered) and they seem pretty bomb proof.
Posted 10 years ago # -
My EBC Continental had Rigida Nova on it originally. One is the one which popped a nipple a couple of months ago. One will be still usable when I get round to removing the sprocket-janmed-onto-the-freehub still spiked onto its middle.
Part of the reason the rear lasted so long was that some of its wear was absorbed by a sacrificial R500:
e2011-03-18_22-19-26_0870 by wingpig, on FlickrPosted 10 years ago # -
My Open Pros turn out to be Open Pro SUP. Apparently that stands for Soude' Usine' Process, basically the rim join is TIG welded & milled smooth.
Open Pro CD is the one with the hardened anodised finish that wears off in the wet, the other finishes available are black or silver.
Open Pro UB means they groove the rim so that you don't get brake squeal in the showroom.
Maxtal means "Exclusive to Mavic, this specific aluminum alloy offers a higher strength to weight ratio than conventional 6106 alloy."
Ceramic means a thicker anodizing layer, resists rim wear but needs special pads, cost is double that of the vanilla Open Pros.
Recent Open Pro all have SUP, MAXTAL & UB as default.
CD seems to be just a figleaf aesthetic marketing ploy.
Mavic has a 2 year guarantee from defects.
Photo shows wear indicator groove on RHS of label... click on link to see the cropped bit
Posted 10 years ago # -
@le_soigneur:
Curiouser and curiouser. Had a look at my 2 Open Pros and a couple on another bike - none had the little groove visible on your rim.
On my bike:
1 Open Pro CD of approx 2011
1 Open Pro black of 2009On the other bike, black Open Pros of unknown vintage, probably 2012 or so.
Your rims appear to be fairly old in comparison to any of the above; maybe Mavic has dropped the wear indicator in more recent versions?
-D
Posted 10 years ago # -
Hmmm.
This is about an inch from one end of the ripped bit. Unless I've been so unlucky as to always catch the same section of rim every time I've braked, this rim does not appear to have been worn thin enough to have warranted blowing out...
Off to find my virtual receipt to see when and from whom I bought it. I didn't ride on it until 25/08/2012 but it may have taken me a while to get the time to build it after ordering it.
From the Mavic warranty:
"Normal wear and tear of the Product. Wear and tear parts are considered to be the followings: brake pads, rim braking surface, tyres, tubulars,
innertubes, rim tape, UST valv, pawls, bearings, free wheel bodies, seals, decoration."From CRC's warranty page:
"CRC does not cover general wear and tear on tyres, inner tubes, brakes, brake and gear cables, brake pads, light bulbs, chain rings, chains, cassettes, rims, batteries etc."Fortunately, the side opposite the braking surface has also broken and the braking surface could not be said to be particularly worn, so I'll print off the relevant forms and see what is said.
Posted 10 years ago # -
The offending rim has done approximately 7,016 miles.
Posted 10 years ago # -
I've seen a worn rim that was paper thin when cut through. But it hadn't failed. You seem to have been unlucky. One winter I put cyclocross tyres on my road bike (with Open Pros) and switched my leisure rides and commutes from roads to paths and tracks. Four months and perhaps 1,000 - 1,500 miles later I had worn out both rims and my entire transmission.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Crikey.
"Your faulty Mavic 2012 Open Pro Rim has been replaced. Your item is being packed and will be dispatched within the next 24 hours."
I'll see if they'll refrain from sending me a replacement seeing as I returned the replacement I'd already ordered (in the same package) for a refund.
Posted 10 years ago # -
I wonder if time has improved this. Anyone worked out how to tell when rims such as Mavic Open need replacing (ideally before failure)? Of course an used rim will have soñé concaveness (concavity?), but how much and how to judge?
Posted 7 years ago # -
Anyone worked out how to tell when rims such as Mavic Open need replacing
Yes, Mavic did. There is a 'witness' built into the braking surface where the label is, exposes a small hole when the rim is beyond the wear limit.
Posted 7 years ago # -
@amir, my tactic is to get paid on the Thursday and look at the rim on the Friday, I can then tell whether con cavity is such that it needs replaced which strangely was not the case on the previous wednesday
Posted 7 years ago # -
@iwrats I've never seen this hole but I'll keep an eye open for it. Usually I've replaced when a mechanic says ouch or the the braking is affected
@gembo hah, presumably a better wheel is justified each time on the basis that the last one didn't last long enough
Posted 7 years ago # -
Front wheel will always be the one to replace. Bike service will let me off with the back one til next month
Posted 7 years ago #
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