As per usual this ride wasn't yesterday, it’s also a long story so I’ve chosen to write it. With a holiday in Keswick planned I made a route for coming home last Friday. Unfortunately Thursday arrived and inevitably I was fighting off the cold the kids had started the holiday with. However with the forecast being blue skies and no wind I decided that at the very least I would head out past Penrith and enjoy the view at the top of Great Dun Fell.
When my early alarm went off I was feeling better than the night before so headed out before Dawn towards Penrith. My full route home was a rather ambitious 400km which given the lurgy was no longer going to be possible, however I could meet my family as they headed north through Gretna. The temperature was down as low as 1 degrees and there were some patches of frost. I didn't have an option for any proper winter leg covers as I had packed a week earlier. However leg warmers and 4 layers on my top kept me warm enough to get through dawn.
As the sky started to lighten (somewhere before Newbiggin) I could already see the Pennine ridge some 40km away and it wasn't long before I could see the pimple on the ridge which was my first target of the day. 2 hours after first spotting the pimple it had been slowly illuminated and become a shining golf ball on the top of the hill. Unfortunately I wasn't at the top of the hill, I had only just arrived in Knock. It wasn't until just under an hour later that I summited the climb. As @Greenroofer said upthread it is never Hardknott steep but the length of it and the location of the steeper sections certainly don't make the summit come quickly. By the top of the steep section I had named the click in my knee Greenroofer to remind me who had put me up to the idea of climbing it.
As with all climbs it eventually came to an end. One nice touch which @greenroofer's video doesn't notice is that the snow poles after the final gate are numbered and provide a nice countdown from 100 until you arrive. Something which would help if you were going up at full tilt (something I thankfully wasn't attempting).
The view from the top was everything you would expect and more. You could see the full vista of the eastern Lake District all the way from the northern end past Penrith down to the south somewhere around Kendal. It was also cold with frost still on the ground wherever there was shade so I couldn’t dwell longer than the time it took to eat a sandwich.
My options from the top were to return to Keswick, Ride north to Alston or head south. It's hard not to fell strong when you summit such a large hill in such glorious conditions so having checked a lift would still be an option if I arrived after 8 I set my sights on Barnard Castle where my route could intersect the northern leg of LEL. Of course I wasn't on the sort of bike which lets you do that directly (and it may not be legal) so my first job was to descend. Oddly despite the numerous signs warning people not to drive up the road there were a few cars parked along the road on my way down. By the time I was half way down the hill the golf ball had disappeared into cloud and would stay that way all the way through Brampton until the hill was out of sight somewhere around Kirkby Stephen.
My next challenge was crossing the North York moors, although the road had been gently updulating almost all the way from the bottom of GDF the real climb up to started 30km later with a 250m climb over 4km. A fraction of GDF but with a runner almost overtaking me on some of the steeper sections it didn’t feel any easier. At the top I was rewarded with my final view of the Lake District and after a bit more climbing a ride past the Tann Hill Inn (Britain’s highest pub). Finally I enjoyed the stunning scenery (other than the nose to tail traffic on the distant A66) and wonderful road down into the North Yorkshire Dales and past the incredibly picturesque hamlet of Whaw. Unfortunately though Barnard Castle wasn’t at the end of this dale so I turned up the ominously named Stang. This time the climb was front loaded with half of the 250m climb coming in the first kilometre.
The descent into Barnard Castle was rapid and unfortunately marked the end of the quiet roads. It seemed like the whole of Northern England had come for a sight test with nose to tail traffic through most of the town. However it did provide a selection of cafes one of which served the most excellent large slice of Nutella Cake. Although I chose it because of the presence of a cycle rack and couple of touring cyclists outside I would recommend Nobia & Sons to anyone passing through. The outside tables were full so I took my cake along to a bench and ate it while watching the traffic queue. The café was my only real stop of the day and the one chance I took to refill a water bottle.
The stretch out of Barnard Castle wasn’t nice as it with busy traffic and a number of uncomfortable passes. Including the only one which made me jump during the day. This was an oncoming car who just couldn’t wait half a second longer and pulled out to overtake while in my periphery vision. Probably not dangerous per se but you don’t expect to suddenly have a car beside you moving sideways towards you.
Thankfully once I reached Newbiggin the traffic levels had started to tail off and I was left to climb in peace. I don’t know if this was because of a road closure notice on Yad Moss or because there really isn’t much up that way anyway. As the day was marching on and I guessed the diversion was lengthy I ignored the road closure signs and hoped for the best. The best turned out to be a fleeting glimpse of a barn owl flying away from the verge. As for the road closure, it was for 10m but they had converted the verge into a gravel track so no problems there. The sun was setting as I approached the summit, nicely highlighting the final view of Great Dun Fell (now out of the clouds again). After more than 100 miles of riding since it first appeared at dawn, sunset seemed like the appropriate time to wave goodbye to the dome and begin my descent.
The final 70km of the route into Gretna contained around 500m climbing. Less than the 7km ascent of GDF. As the sun was setting it was time to pedal on, although I did stop outside the Brampton Co-op. I had earmarked it as my final restocking point for the original 400km plan but instead I sat on the loading bay, finished my sandwiches and stretched my back which was now quite sore. At that point my head unit was showing about 3,850m of climbing for the day and I wondered if I would be seeing 4,000 by Gretna. As I rolled onwards towards Longtown my average speed was final creeping up but there was nothing to climb. I think the 10m of climb to cross the motorway was the only notable addition to the daily total. I don’t normally use the Strava correction tools but in this instance it corrected up over the magical 4,000m mark so that’s what I did.
Crossing the border and rolling into the carpark at Gretna was a huge relief and the sign of my family standing by the car to welcome me was delightful. They are the ones who made such an adventure possible.
Things the ride taught or reminded me.
- When riding from pre-dawn to pre-dusk it’s probably sensible to drink more than 3 bottles. Having been used to hot days over the summer the cold nature of this ride stopped me drinking as much as I should have.
- There really are 2 Bramptons in Cumbria (and three blea tarns). The second Newbiggin was in County Durham.
- My new bike setup has solved issues with my knees but now my shoulders hurt (time to flip my stem).
- There is a “no cycling” sign at the bottom of GDF. No-one knows why as cycling is definitely permitted on it.
- Long rides can rarely be described in few words. Well done if you made it to the end your reward is some pictures on strava.