Sorry came to this late (my ears are burning & my spies failed to prompt me. There are 2 oversize steps for the frame/steerer hinge pins (ream & press in new pins). This can be done with a hammer & centre punch but works better with a fly-press and the right mandrels.
At 12 years you'll have a Mk 4-6 (Long Wheelbase) frame, which has the machine brazed hinge lugs - these do not fail.... often. I've only broken one, and it was an early Mk 4 where the main tubes were not seamless, and a small crack developed on the seam-line, possibly after a wee shunt. I've ripped around 6 SWB front ends apart.
The other wear I'd guess is rear pivot, once it gets really sloppy the chain will keep falling off. Can be re-bushed, & reamed with new pin. Later rear triangles have much thicker hinge plates, a better 'change of section' joint for the chain stays, and I've not ripped one of the new ones apart. A good move here is to fit brass washers in place of PTFE, and drill & tap for an M5 nipple to fire light grease in to the frame pivot pin. This hole also offers the handy option of replacing the nipple with a bolt, to lock the pin solid when tightening or trying to loosen the securing CSK bolts. Lubricating the pin vastly increases life/reduces wear.
Early rear triangles had a vent hole as brazing techniques assumed the risk of trapped air