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Today's most unsatisfactory and wholly rubbish bicycle maintenance

(216 posts)
  • Started 5 years ago by Arellcat
  • Latest reply from urchaidh

  1. MediumDave
    Member

    Wednesday's actually.

    Hopped on the fixie to go work on Wednesday morning and noticed a crank was creaking. "Better fix that" I thought, whipped out the multitool and it was done sufficiently well enough to last the day until I could get the torque wrench out in the evening to do it properly.

    Smugly rode to Morningside, hit a pothole, the chain fell off and shredded the drive-side spokes. The remnants of the chain then jammed between the sprocket and the hub flange rendering the bike wholly immobile.

    Clearly I also should have taken the opportunity to check the chain tension...

    Another wheel added to my growing rebuild pile (2 worn rims, 1 shredded set of spokes).

    Posted 3 years ago #
  2. nobrakes
    Member

    Hoping to post an update to this one on the 'satisfactory' counterpart thread at some point before the year 2500

    Took the plunge and am rebuilding my rear wheel. It's a DTSwiss 240s hub and Pacenti Forza rim, so a very nice wheel. Total noob, but I have a truing stand, spoke key, tension meter, dish tool, Park nipple driver and Roger Musson's wheelbuilding PDF. It can't be that hard, I tell myself ;)

    After 6 hours I think I had put in a bit too much tension before getting the wheel really straight. Roger says this is a no-no, get it straight first then add the tension. So I started again. Up to 8 hours now. Still got some small lateral and radial bumps to sort out and then need to get the spoke tension right. On the plus side dishing has been easy. I am unbearably slow at this, but I've got to that point where I'm going to get it sorted if it kills me.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  3. urchaidh
    Member

    Had to dig the tourer out (for reasons that would merit another post on here) and it had still had clipless pedals on. Replaced those with some flats from the parts box. Halfway to work the RH pedal body and spindle parted company.

    I'd taken the flats apart to grease them. I don't know if I'd failed to put the lock bolt on the end of the spindle back on, or had not torqued it done enough. Would expect the RHS to be self tightening.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  4. acsimpson
    Member

    I don't fully understand the forces at play which require a left hand thread on the left pedal but I don't think there is an equivalent downward force on the lock bolt as a right hand thread could undo on the right hand side.

    Was the lock nut still present in the pedal when you took the end cap off?

    Posted 1 year ago #
  5. urchaidh
    Member

    Yeah, there was a bit if chat in the office this morning as we tried to figure out the turning forces. The end cap came off wither before of when the pedal fell off so I've no idea if it was in there or not.

    They were DMRs with non replaceable bearings that I'd taken off as they were squeaking like Star Wars blasters as they spun. I'd replaced them, but greased them up to use as spares for occasions such as this. D'oh!

    Posted 1 year ago #
  6. Arellcat
    Moderator

    I don't fully understand the forces at play which require a left hand thread on the left pedal

    Jobst Brandt no doubt wrote more comprehensively and forthrightly on this. On the face of it, it seems as though a left-hand pedal should have a right-hand thread, because the rotation of the crank when pedalling would seem to risk loosening a left-hand thread (assuming the pedal bearings were stiff), whereas a right-hand thread would screw itself into the crank while pedalling.

    That much is true but it's an oversimplification, because we have overlooked the great force from the rider's leg, plus the fact that at a micro level, threads just don't fit together that accurately.

    What happens is that the effort of pushing on the pedal causes a small amount of deflection of the pedal's thread in the crank - in essence, the two are no longer exactly concentric. Under the action of pedalling, the radial force on the pedal spindle maintains this eccentricity, and it results in an effect called mechanical precession (same but different from, say, gyroscopic precession or the precession of the equinoxes). The effect of this is that the pedal thread will ever so slowly roll around inside the crank thread, and this action runs in the direction opposite to pedalling. Thus, the thread of a left-hand pedal must be made left-handed to counter loosening through precession rather than loosening through seized spindle bearings. The same applies for the right-hand pedal.

    Of course, if we had a conical interface and a securing nut, like every car axle, this particular problem would go away, and pedals could all be made identical left and right. The problem though would become one of less trivial pedal removal.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  7. urchaidh
    Member

    That makes sense, sort of, thanks for the explanation.

    Checked the other pedal, the lock nut was loose so I suspect I just hand tightened them and put them away. Not my finest move.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  8. gembo
    Member

    This is why I am taking my new winter pedals to his Mattness this morning even with the deluge

    Posted 1 year ago #
  9. urchaidh
    Member

    Winter Pedals?? What are they, heated?

    Posted 1 year ago #
  10. acsimpson
    Member

    Lighter grease so that the friction remains correctly calibrated in the cold?

    Posted 1 year ago #
  11. gembo
    Member

    I struggle in the wet to get my road cleats clipped in so have switched to Spd with a slight platform for the winter. What I forgot to switch was the shoes I took back to His Mattness as they still had road cleats on them. Fortunately I could put my gutta perchas back on as the platform although small allows leverage and some balance.

    His Mattness observed the brakes were short drop and not long enough to avoid rubbing the tyres which explains much. In the p word department recently. His Mattness contests that when first put on they might have been ok, but when the pads Began to wear the trouble developed.

    In a total his Mattness move he shaved the top of my brake pads.

    Oooh missus.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  12. le_soigneur
    Member

    Precession diagram

    Posted 1 year ago #
  13. acsimpson
    Member

    I've seen firsthand like that before. The confusing part is that the arrow shows the pedalling force. So it is always pointing to the ground.

    Or at least that's my understanding.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  14. le_soigneur
    Member

    The confusing part is that the arrow shows the pedalling force.

    My understanding is that this diagram is the Left Hand pedal.

    The red is the LH crank where the pedal screws in (the orbit of this around the bottom bracket is not depicted because the pedal is relative to the crank end so the red crank end is the reference object).

    The arrow is the rotation of the LH pedal.

    The blue unit is the pedal.

    The downward force is assumed, not depicted.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  15. acsimpson
    Member

    Assuming downward force is ever present (although variable) it would remain aligned with the pedal so is the arrow not depicting both the pedal alignment and the direction (but not magnitude) of force?

    Posted 1 year ago #
  16. le_soigneur
    Member

    You are right.

    (Would be nice to come up with an animation of an actual LH & RH crank rotation around the BB showing pedal precession.)

    Posted 1 year ago #
  17. chdot
    Admin

  18. Arellcat
    Moderator

    The other day's rubbish bicycle maintenance was actually rubbish bicycle assembly.

    I happened to be in Halfords for to avail myself of a goodly supply of copper crush washers for brake calipers, but of course they had none. While on my way out I had a look at a couple of display bicycles, and in particular a Carrera Vengeance. After I'd stopped laughing at the sheer 'grrrr!' of giving bikes names like that, I fiddled absentmindedly with the drivetrain and noticed the right-hand pedal spindle bearings were so tight as to be almost immovable.

    Some poor individual is going to end up buying that bike, and most likely will have no idea that pedalling is not meant to be such hard work.

    Posted 1 year ago #
  19. Greenroofer
    Member

    I have decided to lower the gearing on my bike with the Alfine hub, so bought a new sprocket. The old one was very worn.

    To replace the sprocket, I recalled that it's necessary to remove the two locknuts that hold the hub in place, which would give access to the sprocket, which I know is held in place with a split ring. I already had a 17mm cone spanner for one of the nuts, and confirmed with a real spanner that the other locknut was 19mm, so I obtained a second cone spanner.

    When it arrived, it turned out to be too big. I may have rounded off a corner of the locknut before good sense prevailed.

    So I obtained an 18mm cone spanner.

    When it arrived, it turned out to be too small.

    After a bit of huffing and puffing, I remembered that in fact you don't need to take the two locknuts off. You just need to pop this little plastic washer off, and wrestle that split ring off (two screwdrivers help) and Bob's your uncle.

    So not only could I have finished this job 10 days ago, but also I now have two Park Tool cone spanners I will probably never use...

    Posted 10 months ago #
  20. gembo
    Member

    @greenroofer. It is a process. Had you not gone through the costly initial phases you would never have re-invented the bodge.

    Posted 10 months ago #
  21. edinburgh87
    Member

    So much wrong with this article that it's hard to know where to start, and EL is frequently where journalism goes to die - but I hope there isn't someone out there charging £50 for puncture repairs:

    https://www.edinburghlive.co.uk/news/edinburgh-news/edinburgh-argos-sorry-woman-buys-27905946

    Posted 6 months ago #
  22. urchaidh
    Member

    Some places (Bike Craft, for example, who happen to have an outlet in Cameron Toll) charge £50 and upwards to build up and check a bike that has been supplied flat packed.

    Posted 6 months ago #
  23. Yodhrin
    Member

    @edinburgh87 A few of the more "traditional" bike shops will charge you close to that if you take in a dutch bike with a rear puncture, because they're not interested in dealing with the chaincase and hub wheel.

    Posted 6 months ago #
  24. Frenchy
    Member

    Link in my chain snapped this morning. Is this generally considered a sign that the entire chain is due for replacement?

    Posted 4 months ago #
  25. chdot
    Admin

    Weakest link, but you don’t know where the next one is…

    Posted 4 months ago #
  26. paddyirish
    Member

    I've used chains for months after a broken link - I do carry a quick link (must be same speed as the chain you are using) to replace the one I had to remove, so there is no change in overall length. If you don't have a quick link then your chain length will reduce by two links and it may be under more pressure/worse gearing.

    A chain wear tool will tell you very quickly if the chain needs replacing and I would use that as a guide rather than a link snapping.

    Posted 4 months ago #
  27. chdot
    Admin

    Quick link good idea.

    Chains are usually reliable and don’t tend to break easily/often.

    Actual breaking of sideplates is unusual but it does happen.

    More common is a sideplate and pin parting.

    This could be a faulty chain from the manufacturer or poor assembly by bike manufacturer/repair shop/owner.

    Whether to replace the block/cassette at the same time as the chain is an extra issue!

    Posted 4 months ago #
  28. Frenchy
    Member

    Ta.

    Ended up removing 3 or 4 links as I kept making a pig's ear of it. Looks like chain as a whole has seen far better days, but hopefully my repair holds till the new year at least.

    Posted 4 months ago #
  29. chdot
    Admin

    “Ended up removing 3 or 4 links”

    Well, as you know, should never have chain on largest ring and largest sprocket.

    Remove 4 links and other gears may be ‘compromised’…

    Posted 4 months ago #
  30. Frenchy
    Member

    Repair lasted as far as the end of the street. Probably the best place for it to fail, I suppose.

    Posted 4 months ago #

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