CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help

Extracting a bolt/lock mechanism from a timber door

(19 posts)
  • Started 4 months ago by MrSRD
  • Latest reply from gembo
  • This topic is resolved

  1. MrSRD
    Member

    Dear CCE DIY Hivemind,

    Ok so I'm dealing with a second door, and this time I got all the hardware off until I reached the sort of bolt/lock mechanism (see below):

    https://share.icloud.com/photos/0aelUMPn8II9tY4vrGEW5jnxg

    I've pretty much unscrewed everything that can be unscrewed and removed all the other visible fittings. I presume that the mechanism is just wedged in.

    Any suggestions for how to get it out? I'm reluctant to try anything more forceful until I'm sure I know what I'm doing ..

    Thanks,
    Bill

    P.S. And, yes, it was satisfying when the hinge screws finally started to turn in the previous door. So far at least, slathering the recalcitrant hinges with paint remover generally does work.

    Posted 4 months ago #
  2. Dave
    Member

    All the mortice locks I have experience of are just screwed in on the edge of the door (the holes you can see top and bottom of the metal plate) so it would be a case of levering it out somehow

    Posted 4 months ago #
  3. bakky
    Member

    For levering out, I prefer either using a (spare / old / sacrificial) handle 'axle' (the square rod that was connecting the door handles to the mechanism) and then tapping the side of that with a hammer, towards the end of the door (i.e. where you want it to pop out of). That will at least get it started, though you may find in the process you need to widen the hole.

    Once it's started moving, you can take the rod out, and should be able to lever the lock free of the door by getting something down the back of the top or bottom wing as it emerges.

    Posted 4 months ago #
  4. gembo
    Member

    Not sure why I cant open the Cloud.

    A Morticed bolt usually has a thin plate, might be plastic might be metal that isn’t attached to the actual lock. This detaches first then the whole thing generally wiggles out like a sort of cartridge.

    Posted 4 months ago #
  5. Morningsider
    Member

    When confronted with recalcitrant hardware like this I tend to scoot a bit of GT85 (or similar light lubricant) into every available gap and then leave it a few minutes - often helps loosen things up.

    Also worth checking that paint hasn't seeped through the keyhole or door handle hole onto the lock mechanism, which could be gumming things up. A quick scrape with a pointy tool, a bradawl or similar, can help loosen up any such blockages.

    Posted 4 months ago #
  6. MrSRD
    Member

    Thanks. I took the thin (metal) plate out and can't see any other screws. But the mortice lock shows no sign of wanting to wiggle out. I'm reluctant to exert too much leverage and risk damaging the door.

    Is GT85 similar to WD40?

    Thanks again for the suggestions.

    Posted 4 months ago #
  7. gembo
    Member

    Yes both GT85 and WD40 are similar lubricants

    Posted 4 months ago #
  8. Dave
    Member

    Do you have the key? If you lock it the bolt will be easy to grab with pliers, and depending on whether you want to reuse it you could potentially hammer on it a bit up and downwards to free the casing

    Posted 4 months ago #
  9. Dave
    Member

    Otherwise I'd take a chisel, gently tap it behind top and bottom and lever on it.

    Posted 4 months ago #
  10. MrSRD
    Member

    No, I don't have a key. There are several mortice locks in the flat (internal and external doors) for which there don't appear to be any keys.

    I suspect it will come to chiseling ...

    Posted 4 months ago #
  11. MrSRD
    Member

    Mortice locks have been successfully chiselled from two doors.

    Posted 3 months ago #
  12. gembo
    Member

    Just in time

    Posted 3 months ago #
  13. gembo
    Member

    What is the difference between wood hardener, wood filller, wood resin, varnish etc Asking for a friend

    Posted 3 months ago #
  14. ejstubbs
    Member

    Varnish is a cosmetic & protective finish for wood which to a greater or lesser extent allows the colours of the underlying wood to show through - in contrast to paint which covers it all up.

    Wood filler is for filling holes and gaps in wood - most recently deployed in casa stubbs to repair an internal door lock (hey look, back on topic!) for which one of the mounting screws had lost its head. The screw was too skinny to cut a slot in its head so I had to excavate around it in order to get sufficient grip with a pair of thin-nosed pliers to be able to unscrew the thing. I then filled the resulting hole with wood filler, let it cure and then drilled a new hole for a new screw, et voila.

    I think a more common use for wood filler is to fill cosmetic holes & gaps, because once cured it can be sanded and painted/varnished so that the repair ends up looking pretty much the same as the surrounding woodwork. I think that's one of the reasons why some wood fillers are available in different shades: so that it can be matched reasonably closely to the surrounding wood for cosmetic repairs that aren't going to be painted. Basically, it is a filler that once cured behaves sufficiently similarly to the surrounding wood to be dealt with using the same kinds of tools & fixings, as opposed to things like polyfilla and caulk which can behave differently when cut or sanded and so not make as clean a repair.

    AFAIK wood hardener is usually intended to, er...harden i.e. make more robust wood that has become softened through getting wet and/or starting to rot. Wood with an isolated patch of water damage can often be repaired by cutting away the obviously unrepairable areas, applying hardener to stabilise the stuff around the 'wounds', filling the gaps, and restoring the cosmetic finish once the filler has cured. I treated the rotten corner of an outside doorframe that way once and it was fine for the next few years, until we replaced the whole door with a new uPVC framed one.

    Wood resin I've never heard of, apart from the stuff that seeps out of pine trees.

    Posted 3 months ago #
  15. gembo
    Member

    Thanks @ ejstubbs. My friend says there is a thinnr type of hardener that is more watery then there is an epoxy resin

    Posted 3 months ago #
  16. neddie
    Member

    Epoxy resin just colloquial for PVA glue, no?

    Posted 3 months ago #
  17. gembo
    Member

    @neddie, you could be on to something there.

    Posted 3 months ago #
  18. ejstubbs
    Member

    @neddie: "Epoxy resin just colloquial for PVA glue, no?"

    Er, no. They are totally different substances.

    PVA is the abbreviation for Polyvinyl Acetate. For use as an adhesive it is dispersed in water to form the familiar white liquid which is used directly from the bottle. It is available in available in various different formulations/strengths e.g. Evo-Stik Resin W wood glue, both interior and exterior versions, and "school glue" (which I believe is a brand name in the US but a generic term over here) which is a less robust formulation intended for kiddies sticking things into books or on to collages and the like (hence the name).

    Epoxy resins are two-pack adhesives consisting of a resin and a hardener which must be mixed together to start the curing process. My Mum used to tear her hair out at students who complained that the Araldite (probably the best known brand) that they were advised to use for various practical exercises "didn't work" - because they hadn't read the instructions. Epoxy resins are available in different versions, mainly differing in the speed at which they reach full strength and how strong the resulting joint actually is. Epoxy putties are also available, which are intended primarily as fillers or for creating special shapes of robust material. Epoxy resin wood hardeners, such as this one (note the two tins), are formulated to be quite runny when first mixed, so as to be able to penetrate the wood to stabilise the weakened areas.

    The single-pack wood hardeners typically consist of an acrylic plastic dissolved in a volatile solvent. When the product is applied to the wood, the solvent evaporates to leave just the plastic. (Think of how liquid polystyrene cement glues bits of Airfix kit together by dissolving the plastic at the joint and then evaporating to leave the parts 'welded' together. Polystyrene isn't an acrylic, but the basic principle is more or less the same.)

    Posted 3 months ago #
  19. gembo
    Member

    My dad used to use Araldite to repair golf club plastic inserts on wooden drivers. A skill no longer required.

    Posted 3 months ago #

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