CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help

Clicky clunky paranoia

(50 posts)
  • Started 13 years ago by Its_Me_Knees
  • Latest reply from I were right about that saddle
  • This topic is resolved

  1. kaputnik
    Moderator

    and what if your BB spindle is non-tapered? (i.e. Shimano Hollowtech)

    Oh, I've now read the link from Its_Me_Knees - apparently they get greased. Good-oh

    Posted 13 years ago #
  2. recombodna
    Member

    and what if your BB spindle is non-tapered?

    Too modern for me!

    Posted 13 years ago #
  3. Dave
    Member

    Notwithstanding recombodna's experience, I've always greased my tapers because I can't see any reason not to. What I don't understand about the crank splitting idea is that surely the crank bolt threads are not stronger than the crank?

    If I had a sacrificial BB I'd try this by cranking up the bolt until one or the other went, but I don't. Maybe I've been living dangerously all these years.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  4. chdot
    Admin

    "surely the crank bolt threads are not stronger than the crank?"

    The bolts will be steel and the cranks aluminium - not that it's as simple as that.

    Cranks will be under constant, variable, stress from pressure on the pedals.

    Overtightening the bolts - with a tapered crank too - will add further stress. Whether this is more likely with grease is (I suspect) a matter of conjecture rather than experimental fact!

    Posted 13 years ago #
  5. recombodna
    Member

    I suppose now i come to think of it I never questioned that broken crank. was chastised by a mechanic at williamsons for greasing the tapers and always lived by that rule ever since. If I remember rightly it was a deore lx biopace and it cracked in the inside corner of the taper then just snapped of as I was riding fairly slowly. Could have just been a freak accident.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  6. crowriver
    Member

    Went for a quick jaunt on the folder at sunset this evening up to Dunsapie Loch. Not one single creak.

    This is interesting. I was travelling unloaded, save for waterproof jacket/windproof and some gloves in the handlebar bag. So if I can do a fairly steep climb like that (not even in lowest gear, 2nd was as low as I went) without creaking noises, then I imagine it is not the BB or cranks.

    If the load I carry for commuting (from 4kg up to 8kg, sometimes more) is causing the bike to creak, then what is the cause? The carrier stays? The frame hinge? The frame itself flexing? Or is it just the increased flex causing seatpost, hinge, BB etc. to creak?

    It's a mystery...

    Posted 13 years ago #
  7. crowriver
    Member

    The ticking noise that seemed to come back on my hybrid has now (apparently) disappeared following removal of the bracket for a child seat, which was clamped to the seat tube. Maybe it was clamped too tight, causing some stress on the seatpost or frame, or it/its fixings were flexing causing the noise. Nice to have a quiet bike back!

    Posted 13 years ago #
  8. gembo
    Member

    resurrected as lot of the old crew in run up to 10 year anniversary

    oh yeah and bike shop of very high repute cannot get RHS pedal off. Can get LHS pedal off but not RHS. Have tried heat.

    This was prep for swapping pedals tomorrow.

    pedal is making intermittent ticking noise so is going to break at some point. @CHDot pointed out bargain pedals about 5 years ago - clip in one side, flat tother that were a bargain - so I have been waiting.

    Bike shop say new crank

    I say Feck

    Posted 5 years ago #
  9. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    pedal is making intermittent ticking noise so is going to break at some point

    Might just need a bearing service.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  10. Same thing happened to me @gembo a couple of months ago. RHS pedal was clicking and then went really wobbly, but couldn't get it off. Hart's tried heating it and all manner of tools but it was gubbed. Whole new chainset needed as well as new pedals :(

    Posted 5 years ago #
  11. Baldcyclist
    Member

    Most clicking can be fixed with headphones. Only real downside is that component failure often comes as a surprise, but at least months of paranoia can be avoided.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  12. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    One of the advantages of doing a bearing service on your pedals is that it forces you to take them off. Doesn't force you to copper grease them before they go back on but you can.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  13. gembo
    Member

    @IWRATS, your reasoning is impeccable except I cannot get the pedal off to give it the service on the Crank side. Yes on the LHS

    Posted 5 years ago #
  14. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    Yes, I am regretting your choices in years gone by. Every bicycle should be atomised and remolished every year but few are, including mine.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  15. Frenchy
    Member

    Every bicycle should be atomised and remolished every year

    No bike should be unridden long enough to be taken to pieces.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  16. gembo
    Member

    Regrets I've had a few
    but then again, too few to mention
    except the seized pedal
    I've seen them through without exception

    Posted 5 years ago #
  17. wingpig
    Member

    "except the pedal seized" works a bit better, syllable-stress-wise?

    I swapped my pedals across then back again in July 2018, so they're probably still removable. The crank bottom bracket nut on my loft-bike-frame is a different matter.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  18. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    @Frenchy

    Just how long does it take you to strip a bike?

    Posted 5 years ago #
  19. Frenchy
    Member

    Longer than a bike should be allowed to go unridden. Particularly if you count putting it back together correctly.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  20. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    Put back together? Oh yes I see.

    Posted 5 years ago #

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