CityCyclingEdinburgh was launched on the 27th of October 2009 as "an experiment".
IT’S TRUE!
CCE is 15years old!
Well done to ALL posters
It soon became useful and entertaining. There are regular posters, people who add useful info occasionally and plenty more who drop by to watch. That's fine. If you want to add news/comments it's easy to register and become a member.
RULES No personal insults. No swearing.
"Do you not find it odd having your front brake on the left?"
I swapped a few years ago because I only had a front brake on my fixed-wheel but often had to signal right going downhill (like to get into the supermarket at Cameron Toll).
It doesn't take long to get used to it either way around.. just have to be a bit careful if I borrow someone's mountain bike for instance!
Driveside rear. LOTS going on here - thick non turn washer, bizarre acme gear changing arm device, with pulley and chain(!). Two sets of adjuster screws..?
Will make it a bit of a headscratcher getting the trailer mount on here, but I thought I'd leave that battle for another day.
Nearside rear. Extremely dissatisfactory bodge - the brake reaction arm is just too long to bolt to the disc mount but too short to clamp to the chainstay. Mind bogglingly difficult to get the wheel in and out without nine hands.
Probably easy enough to drill out the reaction arm for a bolt to the disc mount (hopefully)
Surely just put the trailer hitch on the left (near) side? All my trailer hitches are away from any drivechain type stuff...
Dave, if you're concerned at all about Faerie attacks, a Brompton trick* is to store a spare tube between the non-drive side and the frame, pre-looped around the axle. You can bundle it up and attach it to the seatstay. If the time comes, just take the dead one out, unbundle the new one and stuff it into the tyre.
* although removing the back wheel isn't such a chore when all you have to worry about is the Sturmey toggle chain.
Crikey, that is cunning!
"Surely just put the trailer hitch on the left (near) side? All my trailer hitches are away from any drivechain type stuff... "
Could do, but then my plan of having the lights on the elbow of the hitch won't be very effective (I was going to stick a blinkie on there as one of the few projections that's on the traffic side but not subject to hitting the ground).
I will have to in reality because there's not enough thread on the drive side of the axle to accommodate the hitch even if it was unobstructed.
Looks very 'clean' - good work. Bring by the showroom soon... before it goes all grey!
Will do. Tomorrow night for Arthur's Seat if not before...
A few of you may have heard that at the aforementioned Arthurian session, I came off and broke the shifter on my bike, simultaneously slicing my leg apart like a ripe tomato.
This morning I managed to ride in again, the new shifter arrived from eBay, so it's all back on the road :)
I have managed to break my dynamo tail light by running 14V through it without thinking. Needs a new capacitor, fortunately one that seems to be available on eBay.
Welcome back to the cycling world!
Dave when do you want your supercap delivered?
This morning I managed to ride in again, the new shifter arrived from eBay, so it's all back on the road :)
So are you rounding the hill tomorrow then?
Not sure how you got 14v on tail light...
by running 14V through it without thinking. Needs a new capacitor, fortunately one that seems to be available on eBay.
Were you called Emmet Brown in a past life?
And a future one, if your theory is correct, Kap.
Dave, What saddle bag was it you had on your bars? I'm looking for a way to easily carry stuff with the baby seat using my precious behind the saddle space.
It's a Carradice Barley. It fits OK, but now I've moved my light up to the fork crown, I need to come up with some kind of rigidifier for the base of the bag, otherwise it flops down and obscures the light when empty.
Cool, 7l is probably perfect it did look quite neat.
Need some coroplast, should do the job and quite light.
and the Carradice Barley fits on the front? Does you're bike have a short stem? Would things not fall out or do they have a draw cord like a rucksack?
On Carradice bags there is a skirt with a draw cord which helps keeps stuff in. On the back of a modern bike the angle can be pretty steep to the point when you open the bag the opening is only a few degrees of horizontal.
The two saddle straps go around the bars, and I've tied the seatpost strap around my cables, although frankly it doesn't swing enough to really need it. The angle is OK (better than the angle when I had it on the back of my fixed wheel).
You lose the ability to grab the 'tops' although I ride comfortably resting my fingers on the bag even so.
The problem really is just with having the fork crown light. Another option is something like the Velo Orange Baguette but it's less than half the volume.
As I already own the Barley I'm going to adapt it. Maybe worth a blog post?
I recently picked up a Velo Orange Rackaleur for my single speed. Damned handy thing for a traditional racer stem. Stainless steel. No tools required to fit.
Can still ride the flats of the bars too...
Big too!
Look what eBay brought! It will soon be time for an "Andy's New Build" thread...
Woah. Looks mean!
How does that seatpost work? What's the lump on the head tube for? Cables? Is this for Kirky 10s or are you expanding your repertoire? Is this a replacement tt frame or have you just been using aero/tri bars on a normal bike til now? Does it take a rack?!
Questions, questions...
Back on the build in question ;-)
I sewed in a little bit of wood at the bottom of my Barley to prevent it slumping over my front light. Works a treat.
I've also got a replacement dynamo rear light (sadly my attempts to solder up a new capacitor on the last one failed, the circuit board was too fiddly).
Sheltering from the rain in a dark tunnel off the Roseburn last night, I was amazed at how favourably it compares with everyone else's battery lights - much better IMO (and I have an RSP Astrum and Smart 2x 0.5W to compare with).
Chainguard not so good though. I picked up a Hebie Chainglider to see how I liked it, but I think my chainring/sprocket combo is significantly too wide, leading to uber friction. I'm going to see if I can't file the chainguard down, since it's soft plastic, but it's significantly out of spec (4.5mm > 3.0mm max).
Back to talking about me :)
How does that seatpost work?
You saw it down to the correct height (it's basically an airfoil section carbon tube) and the clamp gives +/- 1cm fins adjustment. So if you get it too wrong you've just wrecked a frame...
What's the lump on the head tube for? Cables?
Ostensibly aerodynamics, I suspect its more cosmetic than anything.
Is this for Kirky 10s or are you expanding your repertoire?
Yes. And yes. I only did K10s last year as it was a completely new experience for me. Now I know a bit about TT and my own abilities / limitations I can start to go in for more events.
Is this a replacement tt frame or have you just been using aero/tri bars on a normal bike til now?
I've just been using clip-on extensions on my saturday bike this year.
Does it take a rack?
Yes. And it will get full mudguards and a dynamo l light too :)
I'm building a bike at the moment...
but you'll have to drop into the showroom to find out what it is...
I have started several threads (in the powder coating)
Hmm, sounds interesting!
The Rapto is back from Henderson's in British Racing Green, they've made a pretty good job of it.
I also, finally, managed to get my Hebie Chainglider set up and oiled up in such a way that I didn't notice I had it on, all the way to work. Considering when I first fitted it I immediately resolved to bin it as impossibly awful, that's quite a relief!
To be fair, I'm way out of spec - the chainring is over 4mm wide when the maximum is 3mm, my chain is just a smidgen under the 9mm max and the sprocket at the back likewise oversized. Which is odd, because 1/8th stuff is surely very common on single speed and hub geared bikes (and 1/8th is on the compatibility list).
You saw it down to the correct height (it's basically an airfoil section carbon tube) and the clamp gives +/- 1cm fins adjustment. So if you get it too wrong you've just wrecked a frame..
eek! Good luck with it all.
Have a yearning to do a kirky 10 or 2 next year myself, so think I'll be going for the clip-on bars option too.
Sorry for hijacking your thread Dave. As you were.
so think I'll be going for the clip-on bars option too.
Can lend you a pair if you fancy trying before you buy anything!
I've written a wee post about my bar bag (now at the zenith of modification) - cross posted with the Carradice topic since it's not really about the bike.
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