tbc,
There are a lot of options if you include all possible permutations but the main ones are fairly simple and they have key models.
The first thing to think about is handlebars, M, S or P type. I've never used Ps. I have an M and 2 S types. The M or P type is required for the big front bag, S bars are not high enough. I find M bars a bit flexible and prefer the S types. Other people find the S type harsh and fit Ergon grips or Pantour hubs.
The next thing to worry about is gearing. There are 1, 2, 3 and 6, speeds available. There is little weight added for the 2 speed compared to the 1. Similarly there is little added weight for the 6 compared to the 3. I have a few gripes with the 2 speed changer but nothing serious. It can get dirty in winter but it's easy to clean and often a squirt of WD-40 will sort it out. The higher of the two jockey wheels does the actual shifting. It has flanges on the sides and, being made of plastic, these get chewed up by the chain. Mine last a year or two. It's not a major quibble as they are just over £2 each.
I have a 2 speed superlight. My rational on that is that I wanted the superlight for performance and it only made sense if you made it as light and low drag as possible.
I have an old SRAM 6 speed and a newer BWR (Brompton Wide Range) 6 speed. The BWR has only been fitted since May. It has worked almost without incident. The only problem was my fault for not bothering to tighten the adjuster lock nut. It drifts out of adjustment after a few days. I don't know how well it will last long term but it's a Sturmey Archer hub so it should do OK. The SRAM doesn't work well in long term wet conditions, the left hand bearing is not well protected against water ingress.
The next consideration is rack or no rack. The rack increases the weight and makes removing the back brake a bit more footery. It makes the folded bike more stable and if you add EZwheels it's much easier to roll around when folded. You wouldn't use it much, the front luggage system is more useful. Things on the back get in the way of folding and hit your heels if you don't sit them far enough back. However, when you need it it works OK. I used it today to carry a laser jet toner cart home with me as the front bag was full of computer, clothes, tupperwear and accumulated cruft.
The superlight package adds a fair chunk to the price. There are a few reasons for choosing it. It makes the machine faster but only makes a big difference if you go all out like I did with my S2L-X. It makes the machine lighter for people who carry it a lot. It doesn't rust so it could be good thing to use over the winter.
Cables wear out because of flexing under the BB. They also get rusty from water getting into the U bend under the brakes.
Tyres have limited choice and don't last as long as bigger ones. I use Schwalbe Marathon/Marathon Plus in the winter and Stelvios on the S2L-X. I've got some Brompton Yellows too and they are OK.
If your roads are lumpy then Stelvios would be a bad choice but Brompton's own or Schwalbe Marathon/Marathon Plus would be fine. The back suspension block is available in two hardnesses. I have both and prefer the harder model but it only came out last year so I'm still in the process of swapping all the bikes to that one. Tyre pressure should be high. I have them at 100 - 125 psi. I haven't tried Schwalbe Kojacks yet but reports are good.
There is a Brompton gear calculator here:
http://xldev.co.uk/bgc.html
Or you can find the numbers in the Brompton catalog.
Chains do not last well at this time of year. They run closer to the ground, they move faster than other bike chains and they have more chain wrap round the wee sprockets. I get around 1000 miles from them over the winter. The rest of the year it's not so bad.
The front luggage system can carry a lot if you get the big bag. The smaller bags are lighter and more handy. They unclip quickly and are easy to access when on the bike. They can stay in place when folded but one of the clamps is hard to reach.
So, with regard to running costs. They will be higher than a cumbersome because you go though more chains, sprockets, tyres and cables. Some parts are not standard so I now keep a stash of cables, chains and so on in the hut but not many people would be prepared to do that. I've not found them to be particularly fragile bikes. I do 20 miles a day on mine and have done 30 a day in the past.
In terms of servicing you need to replace chains. I do that when they are 1% over length. I replace cables every year or so before they start to get draggy. I don't have a schedule for cables because I know what to look for now but it surprised me at first how they would need to be replaced before they snapped. Some people have a fear of the back wheel. It's really not difficult to remove and there are detailed instructions in the manual. Nonetheless some people live in fear of a flat on the back tyre.
I wear out a back hinge after about 20 - 25K miles. I can't replace that as it needs a £200 tool from Brompton to ream both sides at the same time.
The upside is that you find yourself using it more than you might with a cumbersome. You can take it in places with you so there is no worry about locking it up. You can fit it on busses or in the car so you take it on trips where you might not take another kind of bike so it might pay for the extra running costs there.
If you want to know more about anything please ask. If I don't know the answer I can probably find out.