Hi Folks, about to replace the neon-lime bartape on my bike with some new stuff. (which isn't white or black, sorry rules)
Any good resources about how the hell one learns the dark art of bar taping? Have read Sheldon.
CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help
Bar Taping
(40 posts)- Started 12 years ago by Stepdoh
- Latest reply from kaputnik
- This topic is
not resolved
-
Posted 12 years ago #
-
PS> May be turquoise, but so is my bike. And was only $10. (woo no VAT, although the risk is I could be hit with 15% GST on import)
Posted 12 years ago # -
Loadsa vids on youtube ... like this one
or this guy with his beautifully droll vocal tone
Posted 12 years ago # -
Is it actually difficult? Or only hard if you want it 'perfect'?
Looks like an easy 1 minute 42 second job :) although showing how to figure of eight around the lever is helpful.
Posted 12 years ago # -
Its a doddle stepdoh, I did it on my other SS, usually instructions in the tape box. Only mildly tricky bit round hoods. Sometimes the finishing tape is poor, but standard electrical tape does the trick.
Posted 12 years ago # -
I should also say - just take it slow, and be sure not to cut brake cables if you cut off the old tape!
Posted 12 years ago # -
Arf :), will remember that, it's coming loose on one side so hopefully it'll come off without too much hassle.
Now just to wait for a package to arrive (possibly also with a tyre, shorts and a jersey *cough*)
Posted 12 years ago # -
After doing Autumn > Winter > Autumn > Winter > Spring > will be nice to catch some sun! Still knee/arm warmer weather in the morning :)
Posted 12 years ago # -
Clean sticky crud off the bar from old tape with some WD40 / lighter fluid or similar, and make sure it's all gone before trying to stick new tape down.
test it out before you take the adhesive off the back!
Make sure you don't wrap it too tightly, or it might not reach all the way.
If you intend on perhaps replacing brake cables at some point, and you have the sort that run under the tape, wrap from the end of the bar in the way (that way you only have to half-peel it back when it comes to cable replacement - if you do it the other way, the whole lot comes off)
Electrical tape is far superior to the stuff that will come in the box, you can pull it taught over the end of your taping and it will hold its shape, without wrinkling across to the un-taped section of bar which has a slightly narrower diameter. You can then put the factory tape over the top if it has a nice pattern on it.
Don't try and cram too much tape in under the bar-end plug, cut it so there's just 2 or 3 mmm to poke under.Posted 12 years ago # -
I came across what looked a neat solution to finishing off the tape called something like 'Tite Endz' which is basically a little plastic sleeve that you heat with a hairdryer and it shrinks down to a perfect snug fit.
Though they do have a video on their site of fitting tape and it's one hell of a palaver with the bars off and everything! I've never had to do that!
There's something quite satisfying about finishing off some new bar tape.
Posted 12 years ago # -
I always just take the stanley knife to the end where the caps are, and cut it flush. Not had a fraying, or loosening incident yet.
Posted 12 years ago # -
Hmm, reminds me that the tape on my old CB is looking a little ragged...will have to check out those videos.
Posted 12 years ago # -
OK - what's the cool hipster bar-tape de jour? Was thinking of sorting mine out over winter.
Posted 12 years ago # -
I don't like the faux-cork or foamy tapes as they seem to absorb dirt.
For the last n tape jobs I've used the Fizik Microtex stuff. It's reasonably cushioned, with a wipe-clean surface, reasonably hard wearing, comes in a good range of colours, and the pores in it give a classic look. Not the cheapest (c. £11-12) but by no means most expensive. The two-colour versions look very smart and there are ones that change from matt to gloss surface around the shifters, which look really nice (but very tricky to align correctly)
The plastic end-plugs and finishing tape it comes with aren't the best.
Posted 12 years ago # -
I use Fizik as well. Though the hipster option is for slip on foam grips that only cover the bottom half of the drop bar curve surely?
Posted 12 years ago # -
I'm going to chop the drops off as I never get that far down (middle age spread I guess). I only ever ride on the hoods.
Posted 12 years ago # -
@coxy to maintain your hipster credentials you then have to flip the bars over and make them bullhorns (might even help with riding position by raising the drops slightly)
Posted 12 years ago # -
I have just been Googling. Interesting.
Bar end shifters (friction type) look nice too. But brake levers?
Oh no, here comes a project...
Posted 12 years ago # -
Yay, bar tape has arrived (without a bill from NZ Customs).
Yes, I know it's going to get manky, but is just first time practice stuff, will replace it with some better tape once I've worked out how to do it :).
Really want to give it a go at lunchtime. Me think's being hasty might be my downfall.
Posted 12 years ago # -
Coxy, chop the drops and slam the bars, as they say but avoid grips on bullhorns. They can slide off.
Posted 12 years ago # -
Chopped and flipped pair of old drops that were rescued out a skip. Particularly narrow ones, which I liked. The lumpy profile of the taping is due to there being gel inserts underneath.
Posted 12 years ago # -
"gel inserts"
Hope it's bicycle grade.
Posted 12 years ago # -
Yeah, not very good at that. But it'll do.
Posted 12 years ago # -
Posted 12 years ago #
-
@kaputnik: what are those brake levers?
Posted 12 years ago # -
Look like these http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cane-creek-cane-creek-200tt-bar-end-brake-levers-black-prod20727/?src=froogle
Posted 12 years ago # -
Indeed. Available in Velo Ecosse. The froglegs are Cane Creek Crosstop.
Bearing in mind they are intended for TT use - they are slightly on the spongy side (not detrimentally so, as there's a load of clearance in there to get plenty of leverage). The crosstops are pretty firm.
Note if you are intending on swapping over from road-type bars, these use MTB cables with a barrel end, not a bullet end like for road / STI levers.
Posted 12 years ago # -
That looks way too good for muddy cyclocross.
Posted 12 years ago # -
As I'm still running gears (the knees could'nae tak it, Captain) I'm thinking about the brake/gear lever options.
One thing I thought about was the TT type levers near that clamp over the ends, with bar-end friction shifters for the gears. Like this:
nullI understand that it's hard to get the normal dropbar dear/brake levers to sit on the upturned and chopped bars. Does anyone know whether these TT type levers would fit OK? Or am I going to have to think about getting some off-the-shelf bullhorns?
Posted 12 years ago # -
- hang-on. These levers are bar-end plug type one too.
Looking for ones that clamp on the outside and allow room for the bar-end friction shifters.
Would cross-top types work?
Posted 12 years ago #
Reply »
You must log in to post.
posts
