CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help

WTD Rear mudguard

(15 posts)
  • Started 11 years ago by DaveC
  • Latest reply from wingpig
  • This topic is not a support question

  1. DaveC
    Member

    Thats the second rear mudguard broken on the Cotic. Seems they don't like those stones thrown up, causing breakages! Before I have to go out and buy another 'set' of mudgaurds, does anyone have a spare they are willing to sell on please? I know I could get one of those MTB types, but I do prefer road type mudguards in the rain.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  2. allebong
    Member

    What width and wheelsize are you running? I recall seeing quite a few full guards in the bikestation the other week. Could pick one of those up much cheaper than having to buy a new set - seems nobody wants to sell individual full guards.

    If all else fails I have a spare mtb one you can have for nowt - better than nothing if you're desperate for some protection.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  3. Cyclops
    Member

    I've got a brand new Zefal mudguard I didn't need so never fitted. It's 700c but no idea of the width as I lost the packaging years ago - it's got plenty of room with 23mm tyres and I reckon it might fit up to 28mm. Silver chromoplastic with a mudflap - you can have it for £10 if you're interested.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  4. DaveC
    Member

    Cheers Cyclops, I have 28 on at the moment. I use 37 snow studded tyres in winter but might just get this one off you as a stopgap. I'll be on the Crystal Run and could collect at the end if thats ok?

    Cheers,

    Dave C

    Posted 11 years ago #
  5. Cyclops
    Member

    Dave, that's fine but if you're in a hurry you could always go home via Musselburgh one night.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  6. kaputnik
    Moderator

    I've a backup set of Chromoplastics, but wont take anything over a 25c tyre so probably not any use for you.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  7. DaveC
    Member

    Cheers Cyclops, I'll ride home this evening, and see if I can jerry rig something for the rest of the week. Its a break just above the two spars, under the rack and last time it happened I taped it but that only lasted a few months befor it broke at the stay under the diagonal, so I had to replace the entire thing.

    I was thinking of butchering a cheep old worn out Marathon Plus 35mm tyre but I think it won't be rigid enough.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  8. Nelly
    Member

    Dave, is it possibly down to the rack / mudguard clearance rather than just poor design etc?

    My Tortec Chromo guards get a lot of abuse, including (in winter) far too tight clearances resulting in real crunching noises - and I was worried that a large stone or twig would do exactly what has happened to you.

    p.s. I am not suggesting you need to lose a few pounds :-), just that there might be some compression if you hit a pothole resulting in guard/rack bashing.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  9. DaveC
    Member

    There is plenty of clearance between the rack and the guard. I ran over stones (unavoidable in the Dalmeny Estate on the NCN76) and one was dragged up and made a right clatter and a bang. This time the rattle kept on after the stone had been thrown. I stopped and saw that the guard had been broken. The current guard has been on the bike ~1 year but the last guard broke in a similar place. I have some small stips of mechano type metal and I plan to drill holes and bolt (nut outermost) this evening to see if I can bodge a fix until I can find some suitable metal guards in the UK.

    Cyclops, I'll be in touch and will get the guard off you on the Crystal Run if I may.

    Thanks all.

    Dave C

    Posted 11 years ago #
  10. kaputnik
    Moderator

    My oh-so-nice-to-look-at and oh-so-difficult-to-fit hammered stainless steel mudguards have dropped to a new low in my opinion as the rear one has now snapped, with the crack propogating from the hole drilled to fit the seatstay bridge L-bracket mount, following the crazy-paving effect hammered into the guard and resulting in front and rear parts separating. Temporarily held together by criping another bridge around it and loadsa insulation tape.

    B*****y annoying as I spent 2 hours on Sunday fitting the new dynamo rear light to the guard also and it will now need to come off again.

    Supplier fairly optimistic that they should be able to get a replacement under warranty off of the manufacturer.

    Stick with SKS folks. Anything else isn't worth the pain!

    Posted 11 years ago #
  11. DaveC
    Member

    Hmm sorry to read this Kappers! Sounds like a gap in the market for 'Unbrakeable mudguards'!

    Posted 11 years ago #
  12. kaputnik
    Moderator


    Anatomy of a Failure by the Magnificent Octopus, on Flickr

    At least it cracked in a pretty pattern!

    Posted 11 years ago #
  13. Instography
    Member

    That's a shame. Those looked nice. I've occasionally (well, once) considered cutting strips of plywood, bending them and then coating with epoxy resin. 3mm would bend easily enough and the stays from old mudguards would then be used to hold them in place. Might get round to it one day, although it's at the bottom of a very long to do list.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  14. kaputnik
    Moderator

    They're doing me a replacement. This time I won't drill and bolt them, I'll hang them from the hanger slid off my old Chromoplastic. My Dad decided that the main flaws in the design were;

    1 - single drill/bolt hole at the seatstay bridge, all the stress on one point
    2 - single rear stay, leaving a large length of guard between the stay and the seatstay bridge support, meaning there's a lot of flex between the two fixing points, all the stress from which is on the single fixing point. As the metal bends and vibrates, the natural weakness caused by the patterning will cause any tiny crack to quickly propogate across it. some sort of intermediate support is really required. I'm imagining a knotted and braided piece of leather lace, rather like a boondoggle, now.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  15. wingpig
    Member

    I got round my Vavert-bodging snapping-woes by eschewing bolts (too stressful even rubber-washered) and using the slight flexibility and greater ablativity of multiple thin zip-ties.

    Posted 11 years ago #

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