Hi all I am a newbie on here, Ive had and still got,a GT Palomar, had it for 12 years almost, bottom bracket is gubbed and frame is showing cracks and stuff. Thing is, if i can afford it, how good or not is the edinburgh co ops revolution cuilin pro ? I intend using it as a road / to work/ weekend warrior. Have to say, not too impressed by shiny stuff like suspension and disk brakes but......if they actually work, fork lock out sounds sensible etc. Any info about that bike would be gratefully received . Cycle to work thingy and I reckon on no more than 5oo quid,( cars cost less ! ) But it must last at least 10 years, cause ill be dead soon after. Canal, 2 bridges , pentlands classics,Dumyat and Carron dam. Intend fitting rear rack and crud catcher. Old co op student bikes had a good reputation but.............. are they just rebadged Taiwaneese rubbish or do they actually cut the mustard at a budget price ?
I was brought up on self built mtbs,ie council tip for a frame, chopper or grifter wheels and no brakes. We called them scramblers ! This computer thingy is quite good,never knew any thing about the cycling comunity,think I might spend some time on here !
Aw ra best, splitshift ! ( its a lorry driving gearbox thing !)
CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help
new bike
(25 posts)- Started 14 years ago by splitshift
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Posted 14 years ago #
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Splitshift - did you check the weight of the bike?, the Bike Co-op own brand hybrids and mtbs can sometimes be a tad heavy like a tank or an hgv.
Posted 14 years ago # -
thanks mate, i did try and lift it, after my last bike,
GT palomar, cast iron I think the revo was fairly light ! If thats the only problem I think its not bad then ! What do recomend ? Seriously, i need people who know to tell me ! Stumpjumper, rock hopper ? ASDA special ?Posted 14 years ago # -
"Stumpjumper, rock hopper ? ASDA special ?"
Well you sort of get what you pay for.
You know your budget - but make sure you decide if that includes (if required) lights, locks, mudguards, carrier etc.
Don't forget choosing a shop is important too -
http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=15
ALSO
Colour - you're gonna have to live with it for 10 years!
Make sure it fits and you feel comfortable on it. Various things can be changed/adjusted (but not at ASDA).
Posted 14 years ago # -
not at ASDA, you mean they are not serious cycling specialists ?
Ok, I dont care about the colour, I just want a good bike that I can jump on and have fun while I do my stuff. Lights etc, no probs , Ill just rip em all of my old GT . If I can get a more suitable bike for 400 pounds then thats the one, the revo was just a starting point,it seemed good value, was within my budget, if I sell the car,but was a bit "fancy", disks and forks !Ive seen a couple of specialised and trecks but, why pay for a name ? Cars still mot d so I have no rush, I will listen to you, and come to a decision !Posted 14 years ago # -
"you mean they are not serious cycling specialists"
No -
http://www.bikebiz.com/news/30857/Guardian-columnist-slams-Asdas-cheapest-bike
That's Tesco -
http://road.cc/content/news/15451-tesco-unveils-dedicated-bike-shop-concept
Posted 14 years ago # -
mmmmm, guess whose lorries I drive ?
Clue, it aint Tesco !
Ill head of to bed soon and have another trip through to Edinburgh tomorrow, like I say, no rush so shiny fancy jobs wont work on me, ill get what I need and let you all know ! Great site, you all seem quite nice people .
Thank you and good night !Posted 14 years ago # -
I was under the impression that the coop bikes were made by ridgeback.
Dunno about the Culin but my uncle has been riding a courier to work every day for the last decade and if its just for diving round town i think the Courier race disk looks like a excellent commuter. I'm a recent convert to disks and going back to my roady (its waiting on parts) is genuinely scaring me. Also the 700c tyres will roll faster than the 26"ers
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f_ProductID=12420&f_SupersetQRY=C432&f_SortOrderID=1&f_bct=c003155c018333c018336Posted 14 years ago # -
With the 2011 models just about to hit the bike shops, there'll be more than a few bargains popping up over the next few weeks, time to check out a few shops to see what they have on sale...
Posted 14 years ago # -
*Personally* (and ymmv!) I really rate discs on a mountain bike (saves the pads/rims in the mud), but in my experience thay are no better than properly set up V brakes on a hybrid/road bike.
I'd happily use either on the road, though I have to confess the double pivot brakes on my Giant OCR are nowhere near as good, but that's fine as i know about it so I just allow for it in the way I ride :-)Posted 14 years ago # -
Oh I find that disc brakes are way better for stopping than V brakes, especially in the wet. Having ridden in the rain on Sunday I am seriously considering fitting at least a rear disc brake to my hybrid (to put on on the front would mean changing the fork), to ensure that I can stop when it is raining.
Posted 14 years ago # -
It can be "fun" trying to stop in the wet sometimes, there's always different block compounds more suited to the wet though isn't there - I thought you had to get a hub and wheel (and frame?) intended for disc brakes?
For an every-day bike that doesn't need to go down 60 degree slopes in the mud I personally prefer a decent quality V / calliper brake over a cheaper disc. Particularly as you can do all the work you ever want to on the former with only pliers, a spanner and a scwewdwivuh. That and not have to cart around unneccessary weight, complication and cost...
Posted 14 years ago # -
Back brakes aren't really for stopping you unless you are on a loose surface or something has gone wrong with your front brake.
Mine get sticky cables because I don't use them for months at a time. I also spent years with no back brake of any kind and nothing bad happened... well not as a result of no back brakes.
Posted 14 years ago # -
In the bad old days it used to be recommended to use 60% front brake 40% rear on motorbikes, as they have got lighter and brakes and tyres have improved it's reached the point on some bikes where it's 95%+ on the front and the back is just eased on to stabilise the thing, but that's on a sportsbike braking as hard as possible (without flipping over forwards!)
I'd always recommend using a bit of back brake, if you do have a grip issue with the front the effect is lessened a little and it's easier to recover/maintain control (try it on a loose surface).
Going off topic, another good exercise on poor surfaces is to (at low speed) deliberately lock and release the front, you get used to it and it becomes easier to avoid a spill when/if it happens at speed :)I honestly don't understand the problems people are having with rim brakes in the wet, I believe you all, but I don't understand it, I remember chrome rims and wet weather (shudder) but with alloy rims and V brakes I find them plenty powerful even in very wet weather?
edited to add: maybe it's just the disc brakes I have experience of? Avid Juicy 3's, are they particularly weak or something??
Posted 14 years ago # -
My experience of a loss of performance with rim brakes in the wet is generally the amount of cr*d that builds up on the blocks in the damp; oil, and grit that powders the rubber that then deposits on the rim. It's just a case of keeping them clean. A little bit of white spirit can help.
Posted 14 years ago # -
One advantage of a 349mm wheel is that they rotate faster and and applying your brakes will dry them off more quickly.
If only the tyres were half the price.
And yes Weinnmen (sp) brakes on chrome plated steel rims just makes a noise, it doesn't slow you down in any meaningful way.
Posted 14 years ago # -
I didn't have a problem per say even the rain, its just that the disks on my new mtb are much better than the V brakes on my old mtb and the fact they don't have to clear the water before they start to grip. Mine are just standard shimano deore(?)
Posted 14 years ago # -
my tri-cross uses cantilever. And they are GREAT. no gumming and never had an issue after the first break in the wet.
Posted 14 years ago # -
ARobComp - alas my tricross (2nd series) has very spongy v-type brakes. Specialized describe this as a characteristic not a fault. I fear I may have mentioned this previously as it still grates. The later series returned to canti and stop a treat
On the front back brakes - I was on outing with the very helpful instructors from Bangholm Outdoor Ed. Centre and 7 adhd youth. They had us putting our bahookies over the rear tyre and applying the front brake. THey would go probably 70 front 30 rear for stopping.??
Posted 14 years ago # -
Just added these to my fakelocross bike -
Work well, bargain too.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/90-OFF-MSRP-SUNTOUR-XC-SE-REAR-CANTILEVER-BRAKE-68-/390170141242
Posted 14 years ago # -
Cor! I don't think I've seen Self-Energising cantis for about 20 years. They used to come on the mid-high end Konas and Treks back then and would give the old roller-cam brake a run for its money.
Posted 14 years ago # -
"don't think I've seen Self-Energising cantis for about 20 years"
"More than 10 available"
Had to test them.
Worked great after this -
Posted 14 years ago # -
got my new bike today, edinburgh, revo cuilin,love it,will wear out tyres soon !
Posted 14 years ago # -
nice one splitshift, hope you have many happy and enjoyable miles on it. Did you go for the disc brakes (and if so the hydraulic or cable actuated ones?)
Being a lorryist, you'll have to get yourself one of these fine cycling tops;
Posted 14 years ago # -
love the T, yes disks hydraulic. It was a wrench cause I always said rim brakes were fine,been around for years and worked fine ! I have cancelled my membership to luddites monthly !I might even get it serviced regularly instead of just making do with loose cables and worn sprockets ! The feeling of a new bike is a joy !
Posted 14 years ago #
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