So, how do people remove old bike racks? (or put them on again?)
the space between the two ? lugs is too small for all but our smallest allen key. and then, once the screw is partly out, it is too small for that one too.
any suggestions?
CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help
Bike rack removal bafflement
(23 posts)- Started 10 years ago by SRD
- Latest reply from AKen
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Posted 10 years ago #
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Who put them on in the first place??!
Posted 10 years ago # -
Bike co-op when we bought the bike 6 years ago?
Posted 10 years ago # -
I'd probably put it back on again on the outside of the threaded section of the frame, rather than the inside - as that will be easier!
Which answers only the second question...
For the first, some allen keys are ball-ended, so that you can use them at an angle. That's probably how they were installed.
If you don't have access to these, I've got some, or you could be a bit more destructive and use pliers (or better yet vice-grips) and attempt to turn them by gripping the head.
Robert
Posted 10 years ago # -
Of course, I'm assuming that they can't be turned by (little) fingers - which might actually be how they were installed!
Robert
Posted 10 years ago # -
Update: algo had a first go this afternoon under I auspicious conditions. He and MrSRD preparing themselves for a second attempt post-childbedtimes. Will let you know how it goes.
Posted 10 years ago # -
Hallelujah!
(Thanks algo)
Posted 10 years ago # -
You could try removing the EBC warehouse tag next.
Posted 10 years ago # -
very happy to help SRD - I definitely got the better end to the deal with all the clothes you gave us! Thanks very much.
Funny that what I did under those inauspicious circumstances is almost exactly what Roibeard suggested, but failed on the second one because the allen socket was so rounded, and couldn't get enough grip with the molegrips - there is a well known problem with mixing aluminium and steel bolts in cars, I'm not sure if it was the case here, but it was really very stuck! In the end did as Roibeard suggested and modified new rack to fit with the stays on the outside.
The biggest problem fitting new rack is that the rack mount point was badly threaded - as a result I used the mudguard points as they were ok but have less meat of the frame underneath them which is a slight concern. The point which is threaded is also annoyingly directly above the cassette so no chance of putting a longer bolt and securing from the other side - it is possible to retap this hole to an M6 (currently an M5) - I have such a tap I think.
That above paragraph is not just to explain what I did, but also to solicit advice from other folk as I am a tad concerned given you are using a childseat on the rack - if it's a concern we could maybe try retapping the frame. I wonder if you could put a picture of the bottom rack mount up?
Posted 10 years ago # -
A small ratchet driver with a 1/4" allen bit should fit in there. Something like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/teng-tools-bit-set-with-bit-ratchet-29pcs/56769
I daresay you can find a similar tool in something cheaper than Teng.
Posted 10 years ago # -
That's a pretty corroded bike, so no real surprise that the fasteners were stuck. One word to the wise - use anti-seize grease (I stick with copper grease from Halfords rather than fancy-pants nickel stuff from Shimano)when you bolt steel to alloy. Or indeed steel to steel. It will save you much heartache at minimal expense.
Posted 10 years ago # -
@david.nutter - not enough space for one of them. Once one bolt was removed I got a hex bit in intending to turn it with a spanner but the hex socket was too rounded.
@IWRATS - new bolts installed with copaslip
Posted 10 years ago # -
http://www.mrmoly.com/html/copaslip.html
Not come across that before.
Mixture of Calpol and codswallop??!
I find that mudguard and rack fixings are more likely to come loose.
Have used http://www.loctite.co.uk sometimes!
Discuss.
Posted 10 years ago # -
@chdot - I have an amount of copaslip from doing work on engines where it seems to be a bit of a standard - I don't think it's codswallop but I've blindly trusted its reputation and never investigated… I definitely rate molyslip for differentials.
loctite definitely good but didn't have any (I could find)… the problem with the threaded rack mount was overtightening though I suspect….
Posted 10 years ago # -
"I don't think it's codswallop"
Don't worry I was just 'playing with letters'.
"the problem with the threaded rack mount was overtightening though I suspect"
Good point.
I think that's what 'most' people do stop things coming loose!
Would you use copaslip for alloy seatposts in steel (or even my steel) frames ?
Posted 10 years ago # -
Thanks everyone. I think MR SRD is hoping to still be able to use Hamax carrier given advertiosed weight limits (previous thread) but also need scope for use of Limo (with old rack, neither worked properly).
This will get us through the next few months - after which we shall be done with bike seats!! yay.
Much appreciate all the advice and help. My dad always had loctite in the cupboard. must get some.
Posted 10 years ago # -
I'm hoping that Arellcat will pop along in a minute with some advice.
I think there's an issue with using copper grease in aluminium/steel situations, where it may be great in steel/steel situations.
There is an alternative that works under all the situations, but I've yet to retain that knowledge long enough to buy some!
Robert
Posted 10 years ago # -
Hmmm - it seems the can of copaslip contained worms. Interested to know the correct answer - I understood it to be ok for aluminium and steel and prevent cold welding.
Chdot - you're welcome to borrow it to experiment on your seatpost...
Posted 10 years ago # -
@chdot (et al): I would always use copperslip (or a specialist assembly paste in the case of carbon-fibre) when any two non-alike and conductive surfaces come into contact - to prevent galvanic corrosion. Don't use petro-chemical-based greases with carbon-fibre as they can have a low enough pH to attack the resin, but you should have a barrier there nonetheless.
Posted 10 years ago # -
I think there's an issue with using copper grease in aluminium/steel situations, where it may be great in steel/steel situations.
Personal experience suggests steel-steel is perfect for 'copper grease', which may or may not be quite the same formulation as Copaslip. Personal experience also suggests that copper grease works well if the mass of steel (e.g. the machine screw or bolt) is small in relation to the mass of aluminium into which it's threaded. Stainless steel also has a higher tendency than low or high carbon steels to seizing, and specific preparations exist for this.
I believe this is why I ruined more than one derailleur barrel adjuster, where it was a relatively large amount of stainless steel adjuster threaded into a relatively small amount of aluminium, using generic copper grease, and used in all conditions that doubtless included salt water acting to wash out the grease component and help set up galvanic corrosion.
Aluminium crank bolts threaded into each other, or steel crank bolts threaded into each other, seemed happy with copper grease. Crank interfaces, both square and ISIS, seemed equally happy. Chunky steel threads into steel frames seemed happy. Chunky steel pedal axles threaded into chunky aluminium cranks seemed happy too, but were also subject to much more frequent disassembly and reassembly, rather than fit-and-forget applications.
For headsets and hubs—high load applications—I went from lithium grease (which invariably washed out) to molybdenum disulphide grease (which didn't). I more or less converted to using MS grease in place of copper grease as an anti-seize agent, but the correct Loctite thread locker would generally be better where the component isn't subject to frequent adjustment or removal, and properly treating the threads will prevent ingress of liquids and maintain the desired torque.
Posted 10 years ago # -
@adamthekiwi
Copaslip doesn't prevent Galvanic corrosion. If anything, the presence of copper would worsen Galvanic corrosion of a ferrous metal. The mode of action is by the colloidal copper particles infilling surface irregularities in the components, forming a soft corrosion-resistant layer.
Most greases are actually alkaline (or would be if they contained water to an appreciable degree) due to the presence of soaps. I'm not sure, but I'd expect that grease weakens carbon fibre composite materials through the oil matrix in which the soap is suspended physically penetrating into the resin matrix rather than through a chemical reaction. Greases are almost always pretty inert.
Posted 10 years ago # -
@arrelcat
In the spirit of inter-biker solidarity I offer you this, the best website of all time;
WARNING: Do not follow the link if you ever want to look at a nut or bolt as an everyday object ever again.
Posted 10 years ago # -
SRD, can't help you with the bike rack but, if you're looking for that last missing jigsaw piece, it's on the floor in your photo!
Posted 10 years ago #
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