CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help

Does anyone calculate their cost of cycling?

(31 posts)
  • Started 13 years ago by chdot
  • Latest reply from recombodna
  • This topic is not resolved

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12

  1. chdot
    Admin

    There's a thread running about gears.

    Recent posts include -

    "hence the benefit of having 10 or 11 speed cassettes (lots of dosh though)"

    "the hub alone will cost more than £300 (OK, so still cheaper than a Rohloff ...)"

    Previously there have been discussions about electric bikes (and the significance cost per mile of batteries). Also comments about the Bike to Work Scheme where some (high mileage) people have spent a significant amount on new parts.

    Obviously there's more to cycling than the price/cost, but it's interesting that people know the cost of a bus pass (but seldom think in terms of pence per mile).

    Drivers often know the (extra) cost per mile but only think of the petrol, as everything else is a 'fixed' cost - depreciation is just some sort of inevitable expense...

    SO

    Anyone actually record the amount they spend keeping bike(s) on the road (and the mileage)?

    If you're too embarrassed to admit in public, I'll post the info 'anonymously' if you PM me.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  2. steveo
    Member

    For the last year on the road bike i spent £80 on replacing consumables (chain, cassette, brake pads) plus the cost of the bike about £400.

    On an average week I ride about 60 miles, 8-10 miles a day on my commute and usually a 15-30 miles at the weekend.

    So the last year my £/m was about 16p.

    I think that was quite a lot in (replacement) parts since i've had to replace half the drive train (including a bloody freehub).

    My bus pass would cost me about 26p per mile since i only really used it for commuting.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  3. Stepdoh
    Member

    weel, my bike all up is worth about £150 including maintenance clothing etc. Frame was £30, new parts I moved over about £60, other bits and bobs for the rest.

    100 miles per week to work (but not always so say 75mpw x 47 (5 weeks holiday).

    I'm about 4p a mile.

    Cos I'm in the sticks and need to also use firstbus, a weekly one-ticket would be £23, which at at neat 100 mile week would be 23p a mile.

    So my bike is nearly 6 times cheaper than the bus.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  4. Smudge
    Member

    "...Drivers often know the (extra) cost per mile but only think of the petrol, as everything else is a 'fixed' cost - depreciation is just some sort of inevitable expense..."

    I would argue that most don't.
    Also bear in mind also that most drivers when asked have a wildly optomistic idea of their cars fuel consumption and don't even consider tyres, oil, servicing, VED, insurance, bulbs, fuses, coolant, screenwash etc etc.

    As an exercise whilst we were studying vehicle management a good few years ago I worked out the actual true cost of running the little 1 litre Mini Metro I had inherited from my family. I cannot remember off hand the final figure but with no major breakdowns and no mechanic costs (our course included vehicle engineering) and a moderate mileage of around 10k miles in a year I do remember that the total cost was more than my grant and student loan together :-o Petrol/diesel is a surprisingly small part of the cost.

    Equally, if I sat down and worked out the real cost of cycling again I'm sure it wouldn't make comfortable reading.
    There are ways to keep it down, but it's easy to spend!

    Will maybe add it up later.....

    Posted 13 years ago #

  5. cb
    Member

    The following link is for electric bikes, but there are some cost per mile figures in here:

    http://www.atob.org.uk/Electric_price_tag.html

    More interesting is footnote 2):

    "Running costs are an approximate guide per mile, and are based on a number of assumptions (please note that extras such as insurance are not included). Note also that the actual energy costs are very much lower - typically 0.05p per mile! Most of the cost of running an electric bike is depreciation:

    - Depreciation of purchase price over ten years
    - Depreciation of battery, assuming a battery life of 500 charge cycles (nickel-cadmium or nickel-metal-hydride), or 250 cycles per guarantee year (lead-acid or lithium-ion)
    - Consumables, such as tyres and chains @ 2p per mile (annual mileage of 2,500 miles)
    - Electricity cost @ 8p per KWh

    NOTES: Annual mileage of 2,500 miles. Mileage per full charge is based on the A to B test performance. All bikes are ridden at maximum speed. Economy will benefit from more gentle use!"

    Posted 13 years ago #

  6. kaputnik
    Moderator

    I've spent quite a lot recently on my road bike trying to eke out as many improvements as possible (it's 7 years old and entry-level), but always trying to keep the cost down by ordering individual components from the cheapest website and then installing them myself. It's not intended to be my commuting machine, but I've ridden it as much as possible over the last few months to get in as many pre-sportive miles as possible, and it means I can go on post-work rides directly, without having to come home first.

    I spent £450 on my single speed bike in December. Since then it's had a new saddle (a new "old" saddle that I already had), clipless pedals (again, I already had from the BSO that was being junked) and 2 new tyres (a vanity purchase, 1 red, 1 white @ £22 in total). It had a 6 week service as part of the warranty. Apart from that I've cleaned and oiled the chain, kept the bike it clean, the brakes trimmed and the tyres hard.

    As a conservative estimate I probably do about half my commuting on it, so 30 miles a week. It's also used for going round town, visiting friends and family, general posing etc. so say another 10 miles a week. January to August inclusive therefore would be 1,280 miles.

    So on purchase costs alone hat would be 35p a mile. At that rate, by the end of the year it will be 23p a mile. The vanity costs for nice tyres add an extra penny a mile. These calculations doesn't include the price of bananas and porridge which are my petrol.

    A Lothian Buses bus pass (£504 / year) for me would work out at 21p a mile over a year. However at the end of that, I wouldn't own a bus, I'd be late more often at work, I'd be grumpy when I got into the office and I'd still be a fat, lazy b*st*rd! :)

    Posted 13 years ago #

  7. 1lesscar
    Member

    My daily commute is 20 miles, and I like to get out for a ride of between 50-60 miles on my days off. So in the last year I've cprobably covered somethink like 5000 miles. I've bought a chain (£25) and two wheels (£90 including new cassette and tyres), and used about 5 inner tubes that cost about £10 from Ebay. A grand total of £125. which is 2.5p / mile. Not bad I suppose.

    I have ignored the value of my bike as I think this is not a running cost.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  8. ExcitableBoy
    Member

    Hello All,
    This is my first post, please excuse dodgy username but I had no idea what to choose - everybody else's username always sounds well chosen.
    I have been reading this forum for several months, but held off posting.
    However,this is something I have calculated previously, although I have generally worked out cost per week rather than per mile.
    My bikes tend to last about 7 years costing about £750 including mudguards, pannier rack etc. Then the next 6 years I spend on average £ 70 per year - chains, cassettes, tyres etc. To tracel about 3000 miles per year.
    Total cost ~ £1200
    Total mileage ~ 21 000

    Cost per mile = 120000 / 21 000 = approx. 6 p/mile
    or approx £3.30 per week.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  9. kaputnik
    Moderator

    My hypothesis is that the running costs of a bike actually decrease (in price per miles) with the number of miles travelled. I have no evidence to offer to support this as I've yet to write a PhD to test the matter.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  10. chdot
    Admin

    @ExcitableBoy

    Welcome.

    You can't be that excitable if you've taken the time to record such detail!

    @kaputnik "My hypothesis is that the running costs of a bike actually decrease" - suppose it depends how you calculate depreciation, and/or whether you buy cheaper parts for an older bike(?)

    Posted 13 years ago #

  11. kaputnik
    Moderator

    suppose it depends how you calculate depreciation, and/or whether you buy cheaper parts for an older bike

    My thinking is something along the lines of a bike ridden regularly and over large distances doesn't get much "shed time" where it begins to slowly deteriorate through exposure to the elements and lack of loving attention. Bikes ridden over long periods over large numbers of miles a week need to be kept well maintained and in good condition through necessity. Maintaining the drive train, bearings and cables slows down deterioration through neglect even if they are being used more. You also notice things beginning to fail a lot sooner as you are spending a lot of time together - little creaks, squeaks and strange wobbles are noticed before they get the chance to deteriorate into something much more serious.

    I also think that large amounts of miles begin to offset the effect of one-off replacements through random component failure / pothole collisions / tyre-destroying punctures / accidents etc. These can happen to any cyclist, at any time.

    Discounting purchases made in the name of improving the bike / making it look purdier / just for the sake of it, I don't think the cost of routine chain / tyre / spoke / brake block / cable / cassette replacement really adds up to that much.

    I also note that bicycle manufacturers haven't(yet) perfected the fine art of catastrophic mechanical failure the day after it runs out of warranty that car manufacturers are so skilful at.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  12. chdot
    Admin

    @kaputnik

    Interesting set of thoughts there. Certainly show 'it's complicated'.

    "I don't think the cost of routine chain / tyre / spoke / brake block / cable / cassette replacement really adds up to that much."

    That is a whole area for debate!

    Just on the business of chain/cassette there are lots of factors.

    Rain/mud, lubricating/cleaning, 7/8/9/10 speed, manufacturer/'groupset quality, cycle style - steady/explosive acceleration.

    When Shimano came up with the idea of Hyperglide it was a massive improvement in gear shifting. The fact that some teeth looked worn (when brand new - inc. chainset ones) worried some people and perhaps added to concerns about 'how long they would last'

    The fact that this coincided with the early mountain bike boom where offroad/mud was a novelty for many people led to a lot of unhappy customer/bike shop conversations - 'but it shouldn't have worn out that quickly'. 'Yes sir/madam you/your child have been riding it'...

    There can also be considerations about whether to just let chain and cassette wear out together (which also risks needing new chainrings) or carefully measure chains for 'stretch' (they don't stretch, the pins and rollers wear) and replace sooner.

    As a cheapskate I'm (sometimes) willing to replace the chain even if it means one or two sprockets let the chain 'slip' under pressure until the chain wears a bit.

    In the good old days (or not...) it was easier to replace individual sprockets.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  13. druidh
    Member

    More than I earn.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  14. Dave
    Member

    I'm just about at the stage where I need to renovate bits of the lowracer's drivetrain, at around 3,000 miles.

    I have already replaced the chain once and the rear tyre, plus I have used one puncture patch from a puncture repair kit, and fitted new front brake pads.

    At a rough guess, chain replacement was about £20, a new tyre costs about the same (although in fact I scrounged it from LaidBack), and EBS sold puncture kits for £1, plus £10 for the brakes, making it £51 for 3,000 miles.

    I do have some chain oil which is used every month or so, I guess about £2.50-worth over the distance. Otherwise since I ride in normal clothes, there's nothing to add - that comes to 1.7p / mile.

    Once I replace the chain again (£20), the cassette (£20), and the chainring (£20) I'll be up to a shocking 3.7p / mile.

    The best alternative was the train to Rosyth (paid monthly at £112) which worked out at 15p / mile. Now that I have a shorter commute, I could do the Lothian bus pass route, for 27p / mile.

    Of course, there is the depreciation on the capital cost of the bike to consider. I reckon over the lifetime of the bike this will be, at worst, about 10p / mile. But it's hard to know whether to include this since, as with the car, you'd have it anyway whether you commuted with it or not.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  15. chdot
    Admin

    "But it's hard to know whether to include this since, as with the car, you'd have it anyway whether you commuted with it or not."

    Mmmm

    Posted 13 years ago #

  16. chdot
    Admin

    Thing about depreciation is that it depends how you calculate it.

    In tax terms various bits of plant/machinery/computers etc. can be written off long before their actual useful life is over.

    If you are the sort of person who replaces a car every three years in theory it's easy to deduct the price you sell it for from what you paid and divide by 3.

    In reality with 'part exchange deals' and scrapping subsidies, it's a bit more complicated.

    With bikes even more so. Some bikes retain a reasonable value for a long time (e.g. Bromptons) others really are 'worthless' after a year or two.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  17. steveo
    Member

    I calculated my running costs based on the bike now being "worthless" its a high mileage mid range road bike who would want it ('part from me) and tbh i probably wouldn't have it were it not for commuting.

    I didn't include clothing since i generally ride in the same shorts i'd wear in the summer any way.

    I expect Dave's low racer would hold a lot more residual value but as it costs a lot more upfront the depreciation is probably equal to the cost of my roady.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  18. chdot
    Admin

    "I calculated my running costs based on the bike now being "worthless""

    Another good thing about bikes (compared with cars) is that unless you actually damage the frame its (almost) always worth replacing bits to make a machine that is still useful.

    I do know a Brompton where the only original bits are the front forks, headset, stem and seatpost!

    Posted 13 years ago #

  19. Dave
    Member

    It is hard to know where to draw the line really. I think if you have a bike specifically for commuting it's obvious that the capital costs of that need to be included in the comparison with car / bus / train.

    But, for many who have only one bike (or like me, an on-road and and an off-road bike), it's not so clear cut. It seems fair to apportion 50% of running costs to commuting (if 50% of your total mileage is spent getting to and from work) but the bike itself is already owned irrespective of the job situation.

    I was going to make the argument that 50% of the capital costs should follow the same rule above, but then I realised that I specifically haven't got a new bike because I want one that is less suitable for commuting (and one is the limit of hanger space).

    So for me, the fact that I use the bike to commute on actually represents a "saving" over the notional purchase of something more expensive. Does that mean I can offset the avoided cost of a full-carbon lowracer against the running costs of the current bike? ;-)

    Posted 13 years ago #

  20. chdot
    Admin

    @Dave

    Imagine if 'the object of your desire' became a replacement for a BMW motorbike or open topped sports car for those with a mid-life crisis...

    Posted 13 years ago #

  21. steveo
    Member

    Chdot i just had a very similar thought

    Posted 13 years ago #

  22. wee folding bike
    Member

    I do know a Brompton where the only original bits are the front forks, headset, stem and seatpost!

    Mark 1 or 2 frame broken at the bottom bracket brace or the clamp?

    Posted 13 years ago #

  23. chdot
    Admin

    1 between clamp and headstock.

    Over 10 years old (but even so...)

    Rear chainstay cracked through too.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  24. Dave
    Member

    "Chdot i just had a very similar thought"

    Don't tempt me, please!

    I think once we have a garage, one of these two bikes is in my eventual future. The Nocom is especially neat because you can actually store your spares & tools etc. *inside* the frame...

    Posted 13 years ago #

  25. recombodna
    Member

    Ridiculous!

    Posted 13 years ago #

  26. Dave
    Member

    It's so aero that I think I might have to stop wearing baggy jeans, at the risk of causing roadies' heads to explode. :)

    Posted 13 years ago #

  27. recombodna
    Member

    Having never really tried recumbants (except once in bristo square after a few ales....non starter really) are they more efficient with the pedaling and the sitting down malarky. How good are they at hill climbing?Whats the handling like? these one certainly look fast.....top speeds??

    Posted 13 years ago #

  28. Dave
    Member

    Chris Hoy set the (sea level) kilometer record at 60.7 seconds in 2004.

    The equivalent recumbent record is 66.8, but of course held by an amateur rider rather than a professional.

    So I guess you could say that the difference is whatever the difference is of 6s between a Olympic champ and an amateur... of course we don't all ride around on velodromes!

    Myself, according to the GPS I am about 3mph faster over a full day length of ride, which is not too shabby. For a commuter I like it more for the fun and the reduced traffic stress than any speed advantage though. For starters the fact that I can't scrape down the side of HGVs and dodge between buses means I'm not really as fast as a daring upright rider any more...

    Posted 13 years ago #

  29. recombodna
    Member

    I'd imagine they're a lot more comfy on a full days ride as well.

    Posted 13 years ago #

  30. ARobComp
    Member

    Dave were those flying laps for the km record - suppose must be.

    Posted 13 years ago #

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