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I thought Marathon+ were puncture-proof!

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  1. Beano
    Member

    Opened the garage this morning to find one very flat rear tyre. I was only smugly telling Mrs Beano the other night that i'd be able to ride these all winter without getting a puncture. Obviously happened on the ride home last night but didn't 'feel' anything. Changed into work gear and got the train so will investigate tonight.

    only fitted them at the weekend so have only done about 100 miles! grumble grumble....

    Posted 9 years ago #
  2. amir
    Member

    Did Mrs Beano let the air out? Seriously though, you should never provoke the p***e fairy (said the scientist)

    Posted 9 years ago #
  3. sallyhinch
    Member

    Well, if you must invoke the wrath of the puncture fairy like that, what do you expect?

    Posted 9 years ago #
  4. Beano
    Member

    I know, I asked for it. I am a scientist too, I should know better! Done about 2000 miles on the set of Gatorskins that I had on previously and with only one P***.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  5. Instography
    Member

    This isn't what we expect from scientists. It reads like we know the tyre is flat but not necessarily that it is punctured. It may be punctured but not necessarily by penetration of the tyre - could be a pinch flat or a foreign body introduced when the tyre was mounted. I await further evidence.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  6. chdot
    Admin

    "evidence"

    Now you sound like a politician who doesn't want to do anything!

    Posted 9 years ago #
  7. Baldcyclist
    Member

    They just puncture less. I used to puncture about every 6 weeks on gatorskins. I've had 4 punctures in 14 months with the M+'s, so about half the rate up till now.

    They also last longer, a set of gatorskins used to last me 9 months, again 14 on the Marathons, and they are only just touching the tread wear indicator. I reckon I'll get them through the winter before having to replace.

    They do ride horribly though at first.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  8. SRD
    Moderator

    That's very bad luck Beano. Looking forward to hearing what caused it.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  9. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    Did you use metal tyre levers to fit the tyre? Pinch wound until otherwise proven. Says IWRATS BSc, PhD.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  10. Claire
    Member

    My marathon schwalbes punctured on both tyres within a week of each other. The second time was a garage scenario at the end of the day for the homeward commute, ugh.

    I've got a pair of armadillos on the hybrid that have not been breached after over a year's heavy use. If I hadn't already spent £60 on the marathons I'd happily get the tourer kitted out in the armadillos. They've been great.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  11. ARobComp
    Member

    I've had some issues around this time of year in the past with deflating newly fitted tyres after rapid temperature drops - was it totally flat?

    I'm assuming that when you put the tyre in, one part of it is twisted. The rapid cooling at one point allows this twist to come out and leads to a change in pressure or somesuch.

    Or of course. Magic.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  12. ARobComp
    Member

    BTW I swear by the audax staple of 25mm gatorskins all year round. I go through them pretty rapido but they've been fairly bullet proof so far.

    **rubs self on wood**

    Posted 9 years ago #
  13. acsimpson
    Member

    Like ARC I run gatorskins although I have a 28mm on the rear. Having considered the weight I carry in my panniers for an average commute I think I might go up to the 32mm if they ever wear down. I reckon they'll be good for at least 10,000 Km before they need replaced.

    I've had *** punctures in the *** years I've had the same tyres. (Hopefully the fairies will be happy with that level of disclosure.)

    Posted 9 years ago #
  14. Beano
    Member

    Tyre wasn't totally flat but IWRATS could be right, I did ease the tyre on with plastic tyre levers. I screwed down the little silver screwy thing at the valve 'before' pumping up the tyre and was also trying to clear a pinch at the valve but I thought i'd 'cleared' it.

    I'd have thought a pinch puncture would have shown itself the morning after I fitted the tyres but all seemed well till this morning.

    the investigation continues tonight...

    Posted 9 years ago #
  15. minus six
    Member

    I screwed down the little silver screwy thing at the valve 'before' pumping up the tyre

    Never screw this tight, either before or after inflating.

    With some narrow walled rims, you absolutely guarantee a flat.

    Often mistaken for a slow puncture of indeterminate origin.

    Best leave it quite loose.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  16. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    @bax

    I'd never thought about that. It's not really doing anything, given there's already 90psi trying to blow the valve back out of the rim.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  17. Kenny
    Member

    I learned this last Friday, @bax (the hard way). Which leads me to wonder, what the hell is the point of it?

    Posted 9 years ago #
  18. minus six
    Member

    It's not really doing anything

    yes, much like the dustcap, its not really necessary

    If the slow pinch flat is quite near the valve, its quite likely due to screwing the nut on too tightly

    Posted 9 years ago #
  19. minus six
    Member

    @Kenny -- aye, i was going to mention this very same on your thread last week, but didn't get round to it..

    Posted 9 years ago #
  20. chdot
    Admin

    "It's not really doing anything"

    The point is to stop the tube moving - more likely to happen if the tyre is underinflated.

    Moving/rubbing can cause wear/puncture.

    Key reminder is to check rim tape - especially around valve hole - and any exposed metal bits that could have sharp edges.

    Before double walled rims, spokes used to be a significant cause of punctures.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  21. gembo
    Member

    Always inflate deflate inflate when changing a tube

    Posted 9 years ago #
  22. Uberuce
    Member

    Also don't forget to inhale exhale inhale. I skipped that step trying to put on a pair of Marathon Winters and woke up five minutes later with a 8mm spanner imprinting on my cheek.

    In marginally less silly news, I managed to ruin a Gatorskin in the process of removing it the other day. It was a nightmare to hoik off and evidently I ripped a bit of the rubber on the bead, and now it won't stay on the rim.

    I'd be disgruntled but they were on their last legs anyway.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  23. gembo
    Member

    Yes I will be conducting a breathing meditation this afternoon at waverley court in the quiet room.

    As van Morrison says in sweet thing - you breathe in you breathe out

    Also good to take a zen like approach to changing a tyre if possible.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  24. paddyirish
    Member

    My Marathon plusses gave out after about 2.5 years when I got two different foreign object punctures in quick succession. The rear went first (not surprising as it has 135kg of paddy, child, childseat, paddy and child's cr@p bearing down on it). The front could have gone longer (LBS said that as a rule of thumb, front tyre's lifetime = 2X rear) but I wanted to move to 28mm from 32s and decided to change both.

    Had a first puncture on the 28s last week, but touch wood all going OK again.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  25. ARobComp
    Member

    My girlfriend knows little about bikes apart from the fact that she liked to ride them, and that if she get's it dirty it magically cleans itself over the weekend, but the one thing she is adamant about, is that the dust cap is the single most important piece of the bike. We almost had a row when I didn't replace them, I had to hunt through my "crap bits box" to find them.

    I'm assuming at some point someone told her they were needed and it's stuck.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  26. MeepMeep
    Member

    I like my dust caps for no other reason than I think they suit the aesthetics of the bike better than staring at exposed presta valves. Could be the same for Mrs ARC?

    Tbh, I'd probably throw a wobbly if Mr MeepMeep got rid of mine and thereafter be convinced the bike didn't ride the same as it did with them. I know that'd be wholly childish but I also know it probably wouldn't stop the strop.

    Gembo: what's the logic behind inflate, deflate, inflate?

    Posted 9 years ago #
  27. fimm
    Member

    Dust caps... me, too. Nearly entirely to do with the look of the thing (though given the amount of dirt that gets on the average wheel, why wouldn't you want to keep it out of the valve?)

    Posted 9 years ago #
  28. minus six
    Member

    Gembo: what's the logic behind inflate, deflate, inflate?

    i assume that gembo and uberuce were unconvinced as to the quality of my advice and engaged in some light sarcasm.

    nevertheless, the advice holds !

    if you screw the valve nut on too tight before inflating, then you risk a slow pinch flat within a few inches of the valve.

    also, if you screw it too tight after inflating, then next time you inflate, you're back in the same boat.

    personally i've only had this problem with narrow walled rims and 100 psi, and it can take a while to figure out the cause.

    which i've now clarified for the benefit of future generations.

    Posted 9 years ago #
  29. gembo
    Member

    I am also sticking with inflate deflate inflate.

    I think the logic is similar to bax - stops you having a flat when you set off because of pinch or oddly positioned tube. Ensures you are good to go or indeed makes you have the p-word whilst you Are still stopped at a spot suitable for changing tubes.

    It's what my daddy told me when I was about knee high, walk tall, walk straight and look the world right in the eye.

    Uberuce tho' I believe was playing for laffs

    Posted 9 years ago #
  30. sallyhinch
    Member

    I'd like one of ARobComp's girlfriend's bikes please

    Posted 9 years ago #

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