CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help

Cleaning hydraulic disc brakes and chain for winter use

(22 posts)
  • Started 8 years ago by mmaohara
  • Latest reply from mmaohara
  • This topic is not resolved

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  1. mmaohara
    Member

    Hello folks,

    I would like to ask what is probably a couple of very stupid question.

    I have a hybrid bike which has hydraulic disc brakes and as I have been using it in this rubbish weather I want to keep the brakes and chain clean and in good order.

    I was given some disc brake cleaner and chain cleaner at Christmas and want to use them but my mum (who bought them for me) said the guy in the shop was giving her a run down of where not to spray the disc brake cleaner and chain cleaner & oil but she didn't write it down and can't remember :-)

    I am not sure myself so I wondered if you guys know the best way of cleaning the disc brakes and chain without getting oil/cleaner where I shouldn't!

    thanks very much

    Posted 8 years ago #

  2. kaputnik
    Moderator

    Opinions differ greatly on chain cleaning; can't say I ever do any more in winter than add some oil, let it sit for 5/10 minutes, wipe the whole thing down with a clean bit of rag and then lightly oil it again. If you have a chain cleaner most of these work on the principle of spraying a little on the chain as you spin the pedals backwards to get some on the length of the chain, then letting it sit for a few minutes before wiping off with a clean, dry rag, before lightly oiling the chain. Don't soak your chain in oil; you only need oil in between the moving metal parts, excess on the surface just attracts dirt and grime and builds up a layer of "grinding paste" that damages the chain.

    I don't subscribe to the maintenance style of trying to deep-clean the chain with hefty use of solvents/cleaners (particularly those little bath things) which penetrate and displace the lubricants out of the chain that were already in there. Bikes that live outside or in sheds probably need more frequent care as they are in a damper environment Others will have their own regimes, there's no right answer. Plenty of wrong ones ;)

    Posted 8 years ago #

  3. dougal
    Member

    @mmaohara The disc brake cleaner will probably say on it where not to spray. I'm sure mine does! It's basically isopropyl alcohol so as long as you're not spraying it on the chain (where it will dissolve the grease, not what you want) and you're not huffing it then it will all go well!

    Posted 8 years ago #

  4. Roibeard
    Member

    I'd suggest not putting oil anywhere near the braking surfaces or pads, and don't get the cleaners on to anywhere where bearings are packed in grease (as they'll wash the grease out). This includes the wheel hubs, bottom bracket (i.e. where the pedals are joined together through the frame) and headset (where the front fork goes through the frame).

    So clean the brake discs and pads with the disc brake cleaner, but don't use that anywhere else, and possibly use the chain cleaner on the chain prior to oiling it, but like kaputnik, I've somewhat given up cleaning the chain prior to oiling...

    Robert

    Posted 8 years ago #

  5. neddie
    Member

    One thing I remember from servicing my own car:

    If you get oil (or brake fluid) on your brake pads, they are trashed - permanently.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  6. mmaohara
    Member

    Thanks folks, appreciate the help :-) So essentially its all ok as long as I don't get oil near the brake pads and no cleaner near areas where there should be grease. I can remember that :-)

    Posted 8 years ago #

  7. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    @mmaohara

    Brake discs shouldn't need cleaned. If they do get oil on them they're best cleaned with a blowtorch, but that's maybe not for the maintenance-curious!

    As above, if you get oil on brake pads they are junk, so take the wheels off the bike before getting frisky with the lubricants.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  8. Greenroofer
    Member

    The thing I should have done more, and keep putting off, is to clean the pistons on my hydraulic brakes. On my bike maintenance course he said to use a cotton bud and a bit of brake oil to clean the visible parts of the pistons before pushing them back in. I've realised that while hydraulic brakes are low-maintenance, they aren't no maintenance...

    Clearly, though, once the cleaning is complete, it's important to get the brake oil off the brake calliper so that it doesn't contaminate the pad...

    Has anyone ever successfully restored contaminated pads by heating them to burn off the oil, or is it just an urban myth?

    Posted 8 years ago #

  9. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    @Greenroofer

    Yes, I have done that...on a motorcycle. Drag the brake in question on a motorway and red heat is quickly achieved. I wouldn't try it on a bicycle.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  10. steveo
    Member

    Tried it with a camping stove, worked okay but my pistons were shot so I was leaking oil and never sure if they were fixed and recontaminated or just goosed.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  11. paddyirish
    Member

    @steveo

    was this with the CDF? I had two bad experiences with it recently where the brakes went from working normally during a ride to complete failure, as I was approaching a busy roundabout. Had a look at various internet fora and see I was not the only one. Took the bike to a mechanic I trust and he uncovered this

    In an attempt to KISS, I decided to have them replaced with a fully mechanical solution and the difference in performance was startling. Now I know what people mean when they say, "you'll really notice the difference with disc brakes". Before I didn't notice any improvement from rim brakes...

    Posted 8 years ago #

  12. panyagua
    Member

    @paddyirish

    That's very interesting. I was cleaning my CdF at the weekend, and on checking the brakes I found the front had very little power - wouldn't lock the wheel, even with no weight on it. (I had thought the performance wasn't great, but I guess the back must have been providing sufficient stopping power that I didn't notice the gradual deterioration.)

    I assumed that the pads had become contaminated so I've ordered new ones, but maybe the issue is the one your mechanic found (is it Dave in Aberdour by any chance?) I do find the lock knob difficult to thread onto the actuator, so that seems likely.

    Can I ask what you replaced it with?

    (Apologies for hijacking the thread by the way.)

    Posted 8 years ago #

  13. chdot
    Admin

    "Apologies for hijacking the thread"

    You haven't - highly 'on topic'.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  14. paddyirish
    Member

    @panyagua, yes, Dave in Aberdour was the man-and a fantastic mechanic for anyone who doesn't know him. He did this and a full service/replacement of cables/frontmech and hub/bearings on my hybrid and had both bikes back in 24 hrs- an excellent job.

    The lock knob was getting no purchase on the thread on the rear and the front was deteriorating. Both were in the red position.

    Apologies, without looking, I 'm not sure what Dave replaced the brakes with, just something he had in stock. I'm not that interested in the technical details of the bike, just in riding it... I'll PM you when I find out.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  15. steveo
    Member

    was this with the CDF?

    Nah it was the altitude mtb. My CDF has fully mechanical brakes (I think any way, I should check!) but they're nothing like as powerful as the slx hydraulics on the mtb (they're scary)

    Posted 8 years ago #

  16. panyagua
    Member

    @paddyirish

    Thanks - aye, Dave's great - he built my road bike (including its wheels) in next to no time, and it's superb.

    Now starting to wish I'd bought the CdF frame and chosen my own components for Dave to put together, rather than getting the stock bike. The TRP Hy-Rd brakes sound great in principle (and reviews were good) but they do seem to have some longer term issues - see also this thread.

    Probably best if I ask Dave what he'd recommend...

    Posted 8 years ago #

  17. paddyirish
    Member

    @panyagua

    and this one too

    Always feel wary of initial reviews as they will be based on one or two rides, this is another example.

    Dave suggested to me that I go down fully mechanical or fully hydraulic and I chose the former. It was based on me not trusting the brakes and wanting a change. Don't necessarily want to influence your choice unduly, he may recommend a different approach for you. After all we are very different shapes of riders, and I will be rougher on bikes and components...

    Posted 8 years ago #

  18. panyagua
    Member

    @paddyirish, thanks - I was actually wondering about going fully hydraulic in the longer term anyway, so that might just happen sooner than envisaged. But I'll chat to Dave first and mull it over. That review you linked to is the one that convinced me the Hy-Rds were a Good Thing before I bought the bike. But as you say, that would be based on a few rides on a newly set up system.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  19. steveo
    Member

    If it helps I'm using the TRP Spyre-C and I'm quite happy with them. 8 weeks of pretty heavy use and no problems so far though I've not tried to perform any maintenance it is due to go back to EBC for its 6 week checkup.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  20. Murun Buchstansangur
    Member

    Further thread hijack:

    I have/had TRP Spyre-Cs that came on my CdA, always required a lot of lever throw to get full braking. When adjusted to reduce the travel, it seemed it was possible to pull the swing arm beyond its usual stop to a point where it couldn't return, effectively leaving zero braking! May have related to pad wear, but it severely knocked my confidence in the bike.

    Have now replaced the front brake with HY/RD which I have had no issues with & may replace the rear in due course.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  21. steveo
    Member

    Thats slightly worrying, I'll keep any eye one them. to be honest I'm quite happy with the cable pull, its a about the same as I had my 105's set up.

    Posted 8 years ago #

  22. mmaohara
    Member

    @Panyagua, not hijacked at all, it's very interesting and useful to see this stuff

    Posted 8 years ago #

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