CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Leisure

Utrecht. Anyone been? Anyone know well?

(14 posts)
  • Started 8 years ago by rbrtwtmn
  • Latest reply from rbrtwtmn

  1. rbrtwtmn
    Member

    Following on from a spectacularly enjoyable trip to Amsterdam last year (see comments in this thread) the family's all off to Utrecht with me in a few weeks. Has anyone been? Any specific advice, suggestions, or even questions for me to investigate?

    This year I'm going to take it as read that using a bike will be easy. The kids (early teenage) had no issues coping with Amsterdam - even the busiest bits - and we have a pretty good idea what to expect and how to behave sensibly in heavy (bicycle) traffic. And this year rather then planning to do a bicycle trip day or two as such we're just going to get hold of bikes for a full week and use them just to get around.

    So... anything specific to see (whether infrastructure related or just something nice), anywhere for a longer relaxed out-of-town trip, any recommendations on bike hire? The kids are interested in the infrastructure too by the way... sad but true. Difficult to come away from Amsterdam without being amazed and intrigued by this.

    Posted 8 years ago #
  2. I were right about that saddle
    Member

    You could PM forum member Utrecht Cyclist?

    Posted 8 years ago #
  3. ivangrozni
    Member

    I used to live quite close to Utrecht. Not cycling related but worth a mention.. you can rent kayaks in the city centre and explore the network of canals - water traffic is a lot less compared with Amsterdam. You can easily spend 3 hours out in the water. This is my personal recommendation -I used to cycle in from work once a week specifically to do this! If my memory serves me right - the rates for rental were very reasonable (€3 ish an hour I think).

    De Haar castle is worth a look if you have a little time - we used public transport the time I went but I think its better suited for cycling - its about 15km away from Utrecht.

    And if you fancy a nice meal and a beer - I recommend Olivier's in Utrecht. Belgian bar in a converted church.

    Posted 8 years ago #
  4. crowriver
    Member

    I've visited.

    Good art galleries, museums, cinemas. If you have kids the Miffy museum is worth a visit!

    Cafes and bars are good too. As you would expect cycling friendly, though I haven't actually cycled there. Very good for pedestrians too.

    Posted 8 years ago #
  5. rbrtwtmn
    Member

    Keep the ideas coming - getting excited now...

    Have worked out where I think the good canoe hire is. Also have found De Haar castle - looks closer than 15km and clearly within cycling distance. Inevitably it's on a signed cycle route...

    Miffy I thought might be a bit young for my lot.
    And while on the other hand I love the idea of sitting drinking beer and watching the world go by they're a bit young for that yet...

    Posted 8 years ago #
  6. ivangrozni
    Member

    This is the link for the kayak hire - should have included it in my original post.

    http://kanoverhuurutrecht.nl/

    Olivier's is a restaurant also (not just a bar)- so should be family friendly! You won't be stuck for good places to eat - there are tonnes of restaurants along the wharfs - definitely an enjoyable novelty eating by the water's edge.

    There are a pile of old forts around the Utrecht area - they won't take up the whole day to visit but maybe nice targets for a cycle trip? Here's a bit of context for you:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hollandic_Water_Line

    Posted 8 years ago #
  7. UtrechtCyclist
    Member

    Utrecht is an amazing place, whatever you do you'll have a great time!

    +1 for sitting in a cafe and watching all the people go by! If your kids are a bit young for this maybe you could combine it with a stop for a bite to eat. We used to go to Parkcafe Buiten next to Wilhelminapark after work which is on the main commuting route between the city and the university, it gets the sun all day and you can watch all the beautiful people going by.

    The Dutch are very into pancake houses, which are also great places to go with kids. We used to go out to Theehuis Rhijnauwen, which is a very nice cycle along the old course of the Rhine (This branch of the Rhine silted up and is now very small). You also pass one of the bigger places for renting canoes on the way, although you'll need strong arms if you intend to canoe all the way to town from there.

    For interesting longer tours, the west of Utrecht is entirely flat (since it is below sea level), and to my mind less interesting to cycle, although I once went on quite a nice ride to Oudewater (famous for weighing people accused of being witches and finding them to have a normal weight and therefore be innocent). To the east there is a line of hills (the Utrechtse Heuvelrug) with some nice changing scenery including lots of sand dunes. There is a funny mud pyramid in the middle which Napolean made his troops build in order to keep them out of trouble, it's not particularly impressive but it's fun and we used to make it a focal point when we cycled out that way.

    To the north there is a huge lake (Loosdrechtse Plassen, just to the east of Breukelyn - a nice little Dutch town, the original brooklyn). This can be a nice day out cycling.

    In town, the museums are quite pricey but we liked them. The Speelklok museum is bizarre but quite fun, it's a museum of automated musical instruments, lots of barrel organs and things. There are always loads of kids there. I'd wait until an English language tour.

    The city centre is generally just a great place to wander around. You can get food on the wharves of the central canal through town, nice on a sunny day. If you arrive at the central station and walk in to town you will pass a canal which is being re dug. If you look on google maps you'll see a circular defensive canal around town which only goes three quarters of the way around, since part was paved over in the seventies to build a dual carriageway. This decision has been reversed and they're now re digging the canal!

    Posted 8 years ago #
  8. UtrechtCyclist
    Member

    @Ivangrozni's recommendation is a better suggestion for canoe hire as it's in the centre. Don't make the mistake of going miles away before realising how tired you are, I had a long and miserable paddle home once! There are some one way bits on certain canals through the centre but they seem to be pretty widely ignored.

    Posted 8 years ago #
  9. shuggiet
    Member

    You might get lucky and there will be a festival on in one of the central parks. When we went there were bands, wacky shows, rides and ice-cream bikes which you pedaled to make your own ice cream.. Superb fun.

    Posted 8 years ago #
  10. Lovely city

    We pedaloed round the canals in a TdF polkadot boat!

    Great cafes/bars

    Do NOT walk into Republic Dutch with your wallet or credit card. I've never been in a bike shop in my life where I wanted to buy so much.

    If your kids are youngish, look out for 'Miffy' things. Even I got my cheapies at the Miffy pedestrian crossing so used it three times back and forth! We should have a bobby one up near greyfriars.

    Posted 8 years ago #
  11. rbrtwtmn
    Member

    Loads of suggestions - thank you so much.

    Anyone want photos of anything infrastructure related? I got a nice collection from Amsterdam which I've been tweeting occasionally.

    Posted 8 years ago #
  12. rbrtwtmn
    Member

    Hi All

    Just a quick report back on a successful trip to Utrecht - thanks in part to the suggestions (in particular those from UtrechtCyclist).

    For anyone else doing this trip here are some thoughts in a somewhat random order...

    Canoe trip - hire from here:
    http://osm.org/go/0E6JjMIl?m=
    paddle 1.5hr to pancake house Theehuis Rhijnauwen
    http://osm.org/go/0E6I~Igl?m=
    Great fun - proper open canoes - might take longer if you don't know how to paddle one of these.

    Cycle out to the grass pyramid as (also) suggested by UtrechtCyclist:
    http://osm.org/go/0E6hsZ0?m=
    Really interesting. Easily within reach (my kids are young teenage and it was a long but relaxed day on city bikes). Do a round trip to include all the small towns you can - don't do what you'd do in the UK which would be to avoid them.

    Get out and away from the station area which at the moment is pretty ugly, and which will always be modern - but be sure to check out the current state of work on the motorway-replaced-by-new-canal (see https://bicycledutch.wordpress.com/2016/01/05/motorway-removed-to-bring-back-original-water/ ) - yet again we noted this based on your suggestion UtrechtCyclist.

    But above all else go with your absorb-everything radar turned on - and feast your eyes - and you MUST hire a bike and get out on it.

    Be aware the coming home is incredibly depressing - be warned - I've spoken to many people who report this, and it helped to be anticipating it this time.

    Cycling back to drop off the hire bikes along this incredibly busy road (busy with bikes and people walking, and a couple of buses)...
    http://osm.org/go/0E6JHszdd--?layers=C&m=
    ...I found myself genuinely laughing out loud more than once - and I'm not ashamed to say that at the same time at one moment I also cried out of frustration that we're SO far behind. I wanted to stamp my feet and shout about how I'll never see this liveable a city in the UK. Even if all policy and politics suddenly came into perfect alignment today it'll take longer than I'm likely to be alive.

    and lastly - look out for some things that might not initially be so obvious:
    - What makes the place so amazing isn't the cycle lanes/paths, but that the residential areas are built to be people friendly. This happens to make them bike friendly, but above all what's happened is that motor traffic is prevented from using these except for access. And they haven't achieved this just by ugly bollards, but by turning them into living spaces. I can't emphasise strongly enough how big a thing this is.
    - Based on the above, it then becomes possible for cycle tracks beside roads, and pavements too, to be continuous across the incredibly quiet residential side roads. This means that bike and foot travel is incredibly efficient compared to the walk-wait-walk thing we do.
    - Note the many country roads are based on the same principle, with traffic confined to bigger roads except for access.

    Do go! I'm planning next year's Netherlands trip already - anyone been to Groningen? I think the family will be eager too...

    Posted 8 years ago #
  13. sallyhinch
    Member

    I've been to Groningen with the Hembrow tour - just a day visit though. I made the mistake of stopping at a pedestrian crossing to let someone across, and (what felt like) about 100 pedestrians sensing weakness surged across the road meaning I almost lost touch with the rest of the group ... I got the impression that doesn't happen very often.

    If you want to see what a halfway house might look like in the UK, I can recommend Cambridge. Was just there with the cycling Embassy AGM and they're beginning to put in infrastructure to match their cycling levels. Lots of 'Dutchish' things like big bike parks at supermarkets, people of all ages cycling, football teams arriving by bike to play, and gangs of teenagers roaming on bikes in the evening. Lots of small residential streets where rat-running is impossible (the pavements were so narrow - and with cars parked on them - that I ended up walking down the middle of the street when on foot). Still lots of rubbish UK infra too, especially towards the edges, but it is a good antidote to the come down of visiting the Netherlands

    Posted 8 years ago #
  14. rbrtwtmn
    Member

    Thanks Sally - not a bad idea actually. I should pop down to see the London stuff too - I'm up to date in theory but seeing things personally is always better.

    Posted 8 years ago #

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