After a week on Kintyre, we've now moved to Mull. Had hoped for some quality cycling but its a mixed bag. Roads are not in good condition, would be more suited to a mountain bike in many places. Locals don't seem too fond of cyclists, it seems rather unfriendly after the good vibes on Kintyre. There was an announcement on the ferry warning all tourists how important it was to keep out of the way of Mull locals when on singletrack roads as they would drive considerably faster than tourists. My experience has been that - too fast for the road conditions, very little courtesy or space given, very few smiles or waves. Its bleak and beautiful and making the most if it, but I doubt we'll be back.
CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Leisure
Cycling on Mull
(24 posts)-
Posted 8 years ago #
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Wow, a tour operator that has to warn you that the locals are dangerous!
Posted 8 years ago # -
Have you found the dual carriageway yet?
Posted 8 years ago # -
I've had similar experiences on the islands. Friendly and courteous on one, a homicidal disregard on the next.
Posted 8 years ago # -
if you get out of the locals way quickly enough they are usually happy. They all appear to drive like maniacs which is a peculiar phenomenon brought about by a tight interface between hordes of tourists and indigenous population (remember this was in Strathclyde Region). As with Kintyre where more relaxed, almost any other remote place I have visited in Scotland or Ireland has same apparently busy loclas in a hurry but fewer of them and the whole thing is more laid back but Mull, famous for angry locals
Posted 8 years ago # -
Nobrakes - keep the faith - trust me Mull is a wonderful place to cycle.
What really is the big problem is the stretch of road from Craignure heading out toward Iona. Heavy traffic on this road (tourist buses etc) coincides with the arrival of the ferries. I'm guessing this is what you were experiencing? I got more waves in Mull than some of the other islands. On Barra I was warned by one local(tongue in cheek I hope) - "we kill cyclists here - you better keep out of the way". Although she was joking (I hope) I did find the outer Hebrides distinctly less cycle friendly.
My recommendation is to head in a clockwise direction up around the West side of Mull - the road quality might not improve but the level of traffic will drop off considerably. Word of warning there are some very steep climbs before and after Calgary - but you'll be rewarded with some nice views and fast descents.
Keep an eye out for sea eagles - I spotted a couple on my recent cycle out that way! If you don't have accommodation organized - Tobermory is a good place to stop for the night! If you don't mind dogs - there is a B&B on the hill above the harbour run by an English guy - it's probably the best value (B&B-wise) to be had in the town (although the least pretty externally).
Nice route by the way - I was touring out that direction a few weeks ago! Where are you headed? I might be able to recommend routes...
Posted 8 years ago # -
We're not actually touring on Mull, we have a cottage in Kilninian in the north west. Have been up and down the west coast, north as far as Calgary and Dervaig. The hills there are crazy on a recumbent. 20% in places. Its not the volume of cars, more the attitude of the drivers. Oddly, have seen a lot of Dutch people, some with Scottish flags on their cars. Referendum message there?
Today we went to Staffa with the kids, what an incredible place. My son is a pianist and was chuffed to bits to stand in the exact same spot Mendelssohn stood on in Fingal's Cave. If you have never been, its definitely worth a visit, the geology is just stunning
Will post some pics this evening.Posted 8 years ago # -
I usually see lots of NL cars and motorbikes in the highlands. I just assumed they enjoyed the hills.
Posted 8 years ago # -
@wee folding bike - saw some nice road out of craignure,is that the bit you mean?
Posted 8 years ago # -
Posted 8 years ago #
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Nice images nobrakes. Been many years since I've been there.
The hills there are crazy on a recumbent.
Worse than Stow? ;-)
How many people are cycling them on anything though?
From what you say the locals see enough bikes to consider them 'a nuisance'. Last year Irene and I saw very little cycling on Kintyre. More on Islay though.Posted 8 years ago # -
Earlston road out of Stow is steep, but I think the Dervaig road is a fair bit steeper. It's also full of cracks, bumps and potholes which makes staying balanced at 3 mph a challenge (one I could not rise to).
Quite a few cyclists around. Mostly tourers with full baggage. Hardy souls, I salute them all in my wimpy day outing setup!
Posted 8 years ago # -
Sounds challenging. The tourers you've seen are just surviving part of a larger group eliminated by the scenery.
Need to look at that road on map!Posted 8 years ago # -
Kilninian to Calgary or Dervaig to Kilninian are the tough directions. Other way is less extreme.
Posted 8 years ago # -
Do keep the information coming. I like to have some idea of where the traffic levels have reached around the place. Sounds like Cumbrae is still ok. I know from cycling in Skye 20 years ago with my (now) wife that it was already too busy then (I vowed never to cycle in Skye ever again). Mull, on the other hand, 20 years ago was still really good. Such a shame if that's no longer the case.
Can't believe it was really that long ago - that's what having kids does for you...
The fact that people rarely bothered to thank us for waiting in a passing place for them was an irritation all over the islands/mainland though.
Posted 8 years ago # -
your best bet is to imbibe a bottle of Mull Riveter
then wander around mumbling dervaig is a pain in the erse
you'll fit right in in no time
Posted 8 years ago # -
no brakes,
Yes, there is a short section of dual carriageway between Craignure and Tobermory.
Posted 8 years ago # -
Mull, on the other hand, 20 years ago was still really good.
I cycle toured on Mull 17 years ago and it was lovely. It is sad how the cars just keep multiplying and stifling everything.
Posted 8 years ago # -
Level of traffic is reasonably low. Tourist traffic in general is very courteous. Half of Holland appears to be here! Lots of big camper vans. The problem on the bike is the combination of poor surface in many places which on the recumbent is a bit of a tooth rattler at any speed, and the feeling that the local traffic just doesn't want you there. Because the roads are so thin, you spend a lot of time either making people annoyed by holding your ground, or pulling off the road (and stopping)to let them past. Its not the most enjoyable cycling I've ever done, you need to keep alert and go round all the corners fairly slowly. Some of the roads look like they haven't had any proper repairs in a long time, and so you spend a lot of time picking your route through the bumps. MTB would be ideal, make it all a lot more relaxing.
Posted 8 years ago # -
Tell your bike dealer that you want one of these instead. ;-)
Azub Fat Trike Test by LaidBackBikes, on Flickr
Posted 8 years ago # -
My bike dealer has already availed me of all my spare cash!
Posted 8 years ago # -
Went shopping today, another chance to conquer the hill of doom. Made all bar one switchback. Hard to show in a photo but it is really steep. I can see why trikes make good touring options.
Posted 8 years ago # -
OT, but Staffa mentioned upthread!
http://www.scotsman.com/heritage/experts-join-forces-to-unlock-secrets-of-fingal-s-cave-1-4194724
Posted 8 years ago # -
There were some people in Fingal's Cave with ropes and other gear as well as a tent further up the hill. Wonder if it was them.
Posted 8 years ago #
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