CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help

A disc caliper conundrum

(9 posts)
  • Started 6 years ago by Darkerside
  • Latest reply from Harts Cyclery
  • This topic is not resolved

No tags yet.


  1. Darkerside
    Member

    The SLX hydraulic brakes have been on the recumbent for almost four years now. The front is fine, but the rear:
    - is spongey
    - makes a godawful squeal
    - is about as much use in slowing down as a sneeze aimed forward.

    I bought some new pads, cleaned the rotor with acetone and bled the system. All was well initially, but it's steadily got worse and now I'm back at the spongey, squeally pants-braking stage.

    Before I buy a replacement, can anyone think of anything this can be *other* than the piston slowly leaking fluid onto the pads?

    Ta much

    Posted 6 years ago #
  2. Greenroofer
    Member

    Isn't the simple test for your hypothesis to whip the pad off and look for a tell-tale ring of oil on the back of the pad.

    Speaking from bitter and repeated experience, I'd add a question "could it be something else leaking oil on the disc?". My Alfine hub leaks at the moment (my fault) and so that is what causes my back brakes to fail on me every now and again in exactly the manner you describe.

    Posted 6 years ago #
  3. 14Westfield
    Member

    the spongey feeling suggest there is a leak , so pressure is lost or that some water etc has got into the fluid and the 'compressability' changes markedly..
    (edit- this also happens if the fluid has over heated and boiled: it needs flushed out)

    as said above, check the pads/pistons then re-bleed and flush with more fluid

    Otherwise you might have to take the caliper to bits and rebuild it clean - can that be done with those?

    Posted 6 years ago #
  4. stiltskin
    Member

    Shimano brakes do have a tendency to leak at the piston seals. I have had three or four sets of different Shimano callipers with this issue. Seems to be a relatively common fault and the symptoms are exactly as you describe. You will need new callipers as they are not repairable.

    Posted 6 years ago #
  5. rbrtwtmn
    Member

    Basic physics says that spongey = a problem with the hydraulic fluid (unless there's something really unusually weird going on).

    You ought to be able to see the pads contacting the rotor I'd have thought (certainly can on my brand of brakes). If there's continued squeeze/spongeyness as you continue to pull the lever after this then it has to be something to do with the fluid.

    For others to answer... isn't it possible to add more fluid without completely bleeding and replacing?

    Posted 6 years ago #
  6. Mandopicker101
    Member

    I watched a couple of YouTube videos showing MTB chaps doing exactly that - topping up the reservoir of fluid. Steady hands and patience are necessities.

    In my case, the levers/calipers on my MTB don't appear to spring back once you haul on the anchors. I gather there may also be general muck in the level system, failing seals etc causing this.

    I'm pondering having the hydraulics serviced (Alpine seem to do a good value service for c.£20-25).

    Posted 6 years ago #
  7. Arellcat
    Moderator

    isn't it possible to add more fluid without completely bleeding and replacing?

    Yes, you can. Just bear in mind that if you do this with part-worn pads, you might not be able to retract the pistons far enough when you want to install new pads, without bleeding some fluid out of the caliper.

    @Darkerside, you might need more than acetone. Discs do have a sort of 'pad memory' in the form of the microscopic glazing and pad material build up. A better option is to take a sanding block and 400 grit wet-and-dry, and give the disc a good going over in a small circlular motion, removing all of the shine, then clean with disc brake cleaner (I use Muc Off's stuff in the black aerosol). New pads will also need a couple of dozen really hard stops from about 20mph to properly bed in with the disc. Every few stops, pour cold water onto the discs (and marvel at the amount of heat you've generated).

    But good performance that returns to poor performance does suggest a caliper problem; either air is getting in past the piston seals, leading to spongey behaviour, or fluid is getting out past the seals or from between the two halves of the caliper body and ruining the pads (my XTs are a split design (so far, so good); and my old Hope Minis were like that: the rear used to leak onto the pads and the braking felt like the pads were made of soft plastic). You could try sanding the pads and the dousing in the Muc Off brake cleaner; it can rejuvenate things if you're lucky.

    Posted 6 years ago #
  8. Darkerside
    Member

    Thanks all for the replies. In order:

    - @Greenroofer. D'oh. Should probably check. Although it degrades over a few weeks, so I'm not sure they'd be enough evidence to see. Worth a shot though.
    - [Stuff about fluid]. I have the fluid-topping-up kit, and used that to restore braking performance the first time (coupled with new pads and a clean rotor). Reading your collective words, spongey was the wrong term. The pads still lock firmly to the rotor, but need progressively more lever travel to do that (handily there's a dial on the levers to increase the available travel, but I'm at the limit now). Which, thinking about it, suggests a loss of fluid, rather than contamination of.
    - @Stiltskin - Ah. Ominous.
    - @Arellcat - once I've got this sorted I'll get a new rotor for the back, but I didn't want to do that and then leak fluid all over it. Happily I have a nearby long, steep descent that generally beds pads in on go (multiple stops on the way down)

    Thanks all! I shall report back after Further Investigations.

    Posted 6 years ago #
  9. Harts Cyclery
    Member

    Some Shimano brakes (SLX, XT) have a tendency to have unresolvable lever travel issues when the pads wear below a certain level, even though they may not be totally worn. Assuming your fluid is fine then change the pads. If lever travel is unsatisfactory after that the the brakes will need bled.

    Posted 6 years ago #

RSS feed for this topic

Reply

You must log in to post.


Video embedded using Easy Video Embed plugin