CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help

Bike locking technique

(15 posts)
  • Started 5 years ago by neddie
  • Latest reply from jsh
  • This topic is not resolved

  1. neddie
    Member

    Saw this via Twitter, which seems like a really good way to lock your bike:

    https://lifehacker.com/5942301/the-proper-way-to-lock-your-bicycle (about halfway down)

    lock the back wheel inside the triangle of your frame to the bike rack

    I tried this at work today with two D-locks and saved myself the bother of using a cable to secure the front wheel.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  2. neddie
    Member

    Today's technique:

    bike locking by Ed, on Flickr

    Posted 5 years ago #
  3. dougal
    Member

    I don't think I've ever carried two d-locks with me at one time. That's about 2.5 kg right?

    Posted 5 years ago #
  4. steveo
    Member

    I usually go for the rear wheel and a bit of frame, stopped messing on with the front wheel ages ago but give the cost of the hub I should probably revise that.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  5. Trixie
    Member

    What I've been puzzling over - is there a good way to secure a full-sus MTB?

    Posted 5 years ago #
  6. neddie
    Member

    @dougal

    One of the D-locks remains at work. The other is carried for casual locking, if I stop at the shops etc.

    Also: the old adage about "the lighter the bike, the heavier the locks you need to carry to secure it"

    Posted 5 years ago #
  7. DaveC
    Member

    I remove the front wheel, place it next tot he rear and then D lock through both rear wheels and the frame. Pop the front inbetween the rear and the 'staple' if I feel the front may be at risk of being interfered with - i.e. bent out, and buckled.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  8. Cyclingmollie
    Member

    Some great tips here. I do sometimes see saddles locked as well. Given what a Brooks costs I'm surprised I don't see it more often.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  9. unhurt
    Member

    I need to switch out the quick release on the Genesis seat post - always a bit worried someone pinches it with the saddle (not a Brooks but still cost £80, so!).

    @neddie Also: the old adage about "the lighter the bike, the heavier the locks you need to carry to secure it"

    Unless you have a Surly tourer in which case the bike weighs a tonne AND you need a heavy lock... I assume it's building muscle & character.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  10. unhurt
    Member

    From the link: it's impossible to pull the frame away from the wheel when the lock is positioned in the triangle of the bike frame - is this true? I'd feel very antsy at doing this with only one d-lock, even if I also had a cable lock round the frame as well as front wheel!

    Posted 5 years ago #
  11. Stickman
    Member

    @unhurt: Sheldon said it therefore it is true.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  12. unhurt
    Member

    ...I've accidentally revealed a lack of faith haven't I? I shall do penance by reading about gear ratios.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  13. wingpig
    Member

    On my oldoldoldbike I could get my Citadel D-lock through the back wheel, seat tube , gap in the crank spider and detached front wheel and still have space for some component of a fixed structure, but that was a big lock and a bike with thin tubes and no rack.

    Posted 5 years ago #
  14. acsimpson
    Member

    I'm not sure what Sheldon would say about this technique:

    Posted 5 years ago #
  15. jsh
    Member

    Nice lightweight lock. Top work.

    it's impossible to pull the frame away from the wheel when the lock is positioned in the triangle of the bike frame"

    The problem is, it doesn't look impossible, so I worry about whether a thief will be bright enough not to seriously damage the bike by trying to remove the wheel and yank the frame away. Also cutting the wheel isn't exactly beyond them, relying on them using a hacksaw blade, and its blade being pinched is kind of naive.

    Posted 5 years ago #

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