Read both Sheldon's wheelbuilding page and the equivalent from Zinn's bike maintenance textbook if possible.
Get a spoke key - one of the circular ones with multiple sizes is best - you might already have some popular sizes on multi-tools or toolsets.
Get a packet of Lidl/Aldi baby wipes for cleaning your fingers after touching the wheels.
Start with the warped wheel, assuming it's side-side warped rather than in-out: Upend the bike. Pluck all the spokes and listen to the pitch. Compare to a similar non-warped wheel if possible to get an idea of what a non-warped wheel should sound like. If it's a rear wheel it'll probably be lower on the drive side. If there are any obvious major differences in pitch between the warped bit and the majority of the rest of the wheel, initially try to resolve the warp by loosening higher-pitched/tighter spokes on the side the warp waggles towards and lower-pitched/looser spokes on the side it waggles away from by adjusting single spokes a quarter-turn at a time, applying righty-tighty/lefty-loosey by imagining the spoke as a screw with the head on the rim . After each tightening or loosening lightly grab clutches of four spokes at a time (at the crossover points) and gently squidge them so that they settle.
If the warp is not corroborated by differences in pitch, you still have to resolve it by tightening and loosening but have to watch out more for radial warp, so might have to gently and evenly tweak the spokes in the unwarped section to keep the wheel round.
Bits which are noticeably looser or tighter than other bits but which are not warped might well decide to warp later, under appropriate knocks/bashes/use, so resolving any imbalances is generally good for wheel-health.
For the broken spoke, you need to measure the spoke from the elbow to the tip (inside the nipple) and purchase a replacement. As it should be retained by the rim, you should be able to re-use the nipple. You might have to remove the cassette if it's a rear wheel. Follow the pattern of inward/outward poking-through seen elsewhere in the wheel and insert the new spoke, tighten the new spoke to ballparkish pitch compared to the same-side spokes elsewhere on the wheel then follow the process for truing - as you tighen the new spoke to around the correct level it might start pulling the wheel about even if it's somehow not warped already.
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