CityCyclingEdinburgh was launched on the 27th of October 2009 as "an experiment".
IT’S TRUE!
CCE is 15years old!
Well done to ALL posters
It soon became useful and entertaining. There are regular posters, people who add useful info occasionally and plenty more who drop by to watch. That's fine. If you want to add news/comments it's easy to register and become a member.
RULES No personal insults. No swearing.
two bikes currently afflicted
sometimes i fantasise that i will take the time needed to sort it all out at the weekend.. yes definitely next weekend..
or maybe i'll just gamely soldier on with ongoing shift impediment and replace it in the spring
its all in the hands of the gods, for i am merely an innocent bystander
This is now my favourite CCE poll ever. I feel SEEN.
its not easy i know.. but sometimes talking helps
Rear mech slipping but needs to wait til spring
Rear mech is semi gubbed but only because I've got my winter wheels on still. I consider the front mech to only be used in emergencies, otherwise it's the middle ring all the way
a middle ring.. what mad tolkienesque sorcerey is this
Alfine........ :-)
I have two front mechs. Neither is attached to a frame, both are just dandy thanks for asking.
@iwrats some might say you are cheating destiny with this non-attached front mech philosophy, but clearly it has its benefits
Front mechs never my favourite thing, but I’ve seldom failed to oil the pivots enough for the things to stop working.
My first front mech didn’t exist.
I created a 10 speed tourer and basically ran out of money and decided that the front ring would be used so little that I could save money by not having mech or lever.
I derailed the chain with my heel.
To change back up I used a bent spoke which I somehow (can’t remember) fixed to the top tube until required.
I have to help mine down to the small ring with a foot whenever I decide to use it, which is usually every couple of months at the most. Even without going to the top ring I still have more gear on the geared bike than on the singlespeed, so I haven't felt the need to try the big ring since refitting it. I have a small selection of 28.6 bottom-pull front mechs in my bits tub but none seem to be truly able to move enough to deserve being called triple.
Mtb front mech is seized solid in the big ring no amount of wd40 and mallet seems to help it. Going to have to order a new one, I had been intending on taking it up the pentlands but given I couldn't get up the ramp to ravelston from the nepn I can't see me getting up any of the clueghs.
Alfine........ :-)
Just like glasses come free on the NHS, the more I look through them the more I see
I'm becoming more like...
@steveo
Blowtorch mate. A major source of winter cash-flow for bikeshops I'm told - front mech in vice, roast, hammer, lube, replace.
I've put "everything is fine" but in this sense.
Iwrats, now you've worried me. I wasn't even thinking about getting the mech off the bike!
@steveo
Not even I would blowtorch a component on the frame unless it was stuck on the frame, obvs.
That's what's worrying me, I suspect the actual component is knackered and is only about £20 to replace... Assuming I can prise it from the frame.
@ARobComp I just assumed it was meant in that sense.
Alfine
I have one coupled with an over complicated Di2 set-up. When it works is great, the slight lack of range can be annoying but just means I have to pedal harder or faster depends which end.
However it's the endless worry that it's going to fail at the most inopportune time, which provides a constant ongoing low-level amount of stress.
I am sure it'll be just fine on the Capital Trail at the end of May and no one will laugh should the worst occur.
Are you sure you don't secretly enjoy the constant risk of technological failure?
I have Alfine. It works in a predictable way. I am completely satisfied with it, but I don't engage with it emotionally. I also have Sturmey Archer 3 speed which I am attached to because of the happy ticking sound it makes in top gear.
To free a seized front mech, I douse in WD40, leave it soak, I get a pliers on the pivot point and lever it to-and-fro gradually and once it reaches the small chainring I apply oil to the pivot and cable run. Then test it with the gearshifter.
3-ring front mechs on both bikes seemingly okay at the moment. I tend to leave it on the big ring unless necessary. Rarely hit the small ring these days.
Following a recent crash on my commuter, I had a few days on my road bike. Alas the shock of midwinter plainly killed the front mech shifter stone dead. The lever swings, but those pawls ain't clicking.
Funnily enough my commuting bike is running better than ever before, mainly because the majority of the drive train is brand new (and the owner is now a lot wiser/poorer).
one front mech now rehabilitated
one stubborn one still to go..
i've given it a hard stare and mumbled something about returning on sunday to apply the iwrats non-attachment policy
that should do the trick
Standard bikes weak point. Spray with salt onto bottom bracket and front mech from front wheel.
One reason our old family tandem went to Rohloff (never owned a car and cycling in Edinburgh = high gear click use).
On recliners both the b/b and front mech stay out of the spray zone so stay a lot cleaner.
But yes... I know they aren't practical ;-)
Could argue that the lower the front mudguard is, the less water makes it back to b/b and front mech? Doesn't look so good but...
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