@unhurt - sent some more specific advice to IWRATS
Quick post here on the cycling which was an immediate reaction when I got home
http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=18137#post-260595
Highlights for me were Suomenlinna- a fortress island about 1/2 hr by ferry from the port - a world heritage site worth 1/2 day.
The Icebreaker fleet is on the Katajanokka peninsula and worth a walk past - they are huge.
We stayed in Katajanokka jail which was fun - you get your own cell which was very clean and comfortable and a good feed the next day. The first place I've seen handcuffs in a vending machine...
The Ateneum Art Museum near the main station was well worth a trip- we got a personal guided trip by a former employee, which really added to it.
In general it was expensive, though i found that I could eat more than adequately (for similar prices) out of supermarkets and have one meal out per day.
I got a tip about a soup kitchen at the Hakaniemi Market and it was well worth a visit- had parsnip smoked reinderer soup which was superb and many veggie alternatives.
If you are veggie, best you don't read on...
the best place was Lappi Ravintola a real gastronomic adventure- Lapp cuisine - https://lappires.com/en/
There was an expensive Russian restaurant near Tove Janssen square which sold potted bear, but we didn't end up going there.
Regrets were not going for a sauna, though we had one in our room in the last night, and also missing out on a trip to Porvoo, about 50 km East, which looked lovely.
Happy to share cycle routes if you like. was lovely getting outside the city on a good day