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solicited advice

(25 posts)
  • Started 1 month ago by Baldcyclist
  • Latest reply from ejstubbs

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  1. Baldcyclist
    Member

    I'm a bit of a Planet X fan, and have two of them, a Pro Carbon Evo, and a Kaffenback which is my triggers brush commuter which I've had for at least 12 years, it's been battered and bruised, and crashed multiple times, and it needs a bit of tlc.

    It needs a new back wheel after a crash, and a new groupset as that is worn out. ALso the gear hanger, which is attached steel has been bent and bent back a number of times, and as a result the gears just aren't quite 100%. All of which will cost hunners of money.

    On getting back to commuting last year I used my MTB a lot over the summer and thought I prefered the flat bars, so was considering either converting Kaff to flat bars, or just buying a new hybrid bike. However my neck seems to be adjusting to road position again, so I may stay on road bars now with plenty spacers, and shorter stem, which has worked well for me.

    Has anyone got a Planet X Tempest (https://planetx.co.uk/collections/tempest), is any good? Also any experience of the SRAM electronic grouopset , or should I just stick with a mechanical Shimano groupset?

    I'm thinking I might treat myself to one last nice bike.

    Posted 1 month ago #

  2. chdot
    Admin

    “I might treat myself to one last nice bike.“

    That sounds pessimistic!

    I keep trying to stop…

    Bigger

    Posted 1 month ago #

  3. acsimpson
    Member

    That's a fetchin' bike.

    @baldycyclis, I only have good things to say about the SRAM electronic group set. I've been riding a rival axs since it was launched and love it. I keep the chain reasonably clean and replace it when necessary and in return it's given me well over 10,000km of trouble freee riding. Yes you need to charge the batteries occasionally but there is no indexing required ever. It's also truly wireless, unlike di2 which just has wireless shifters.

    Posted 1 month ago #

  4. mcairney
    Member

    +1 for SRAM electronic groupsets. I've got SRAM Apex AXS on my new Diverge and it's great- shifts are quick clean and crisp and I much prefer SRAM's design decision about having a removable battery than Shimano's integrated battery.
    Still early days though and I seem to remember that the bearings on Apex jockey wheels aren't sealed so need upgrading/replacing if you plan on riding it in Scottish weather.

    Mechanical SRAM at anything lower than Force is terrible though, especially if it uses doubletap.

    Posted 1 month ago #

  5. chdot
    Admin

    “That's a fetchin' bike”

    Ta

    Mostly original, as bought.

    Rear mech on when I bought it (not original) manages to work on new 8 speed block.

    New TA ring on original (cottered!) cranks.

    Built better wheels with ‘period’ age components.

    Rides nicely.

    Posted 1 month ago #

  6. Baldcyclist
    Member

    @chdot, that's a pretty rear triangle. :)

    I have older SRAM Force which is doubletap on my Pro Carbon, which came off my previous bike. I'm probably not keen on doubletap for a commuting bike, but it's OK for weekends. I probably prefer my cheaper Tiagra shifters on my Kaff compared to SRAM Force doubletap.

    Figured button shifting probably equalises things a bit in terms of feel, so brand probably less of an issue if electronic. I do like the idea of no tinkering, or cables etc.

    Posted 1 month ago #

  7. Baldcyclist
    Member

    "sounds pessimistic!"

    Probably next bike in 10 or 12 years will have a battery,

    Posted 1 month ago #

  8. chdot
    Admin

    “Probably next bike in 10 or 12 years“

    Sounds optimistic

    (In terms of bike/electonics/your willpower holding out…)

    Posted 1 month ago #

  9. chdot
    Admin

    “that's a pretty rear triangle“

    Stylish even

    Posted 1 month ago #

  10. Baldcyclist
    Member

    "your willpower holding out…"

    It's not the new bikes so much that are the problem, more my inability to dispose of the old ones...

    That said there may (or not) be an advert for my Parabike soon.

    Posted 1 month ago #

  11. Baldcyclist
    Member

    "inability to dispose of the old ones"

    My Kaff may end up on the wall next to my Cervello...

    Posted 1 month ago #

  12. neddie
    Member

    One bike I regret selling was my 1995 Canondale M500 fully rigid mountain bike. The frame was so stiff and light, it felt like every ounce of pedal stroke force was transmitted to the wheels!

    I have seen it since being ridden (legit) by someone else, converted to a most excellent commuter bike

    Oh well...

    Posted 1 month ago #

  13. Baldcyclist
    Member

    Somebody at work had a black M500 when they came out, and I remember thinking the tubes were massive, though they don't look that big by todays standards.

    I'd regret selling my Parabike. It's objectively rubbish, but it's my favourite bike. I've probably only riden it twice in the last year though, if I just want to nip to the shops my MTB is far easier to get up the hill, so it now has no real purpose other than looking pretty when I go into the garage. :(

    Posted 1 month ago #

  14. mcairney
    Member

    I might have just been unlucky but I've had 2 bikes with SRAM 1x mechanical (Rival and Apex). The bike with Apex went through 3 rear mechs, 2 cassettes and countless sets of brake pads in my year of ownership (from new).
    The Rival was a bit better but was still very finicky in terms of cable tension to the point where the gears needed re-indexing again 10 miles into a post-service test ride. Shimano mechanical is at the opposite end of the scale, it'll keep shifting smoothly well past the point of no-return of your chain/chainrings/cassette!

    Posted 1 month ago #

  15. handcyclist
    Member

    Just make sure your Planet X Tempest has been made properly. This is a salutory tale from a friend of mine: https://road.cc/content/news/doctor-paralysed-after-planet-x-failure-wins-ps45m-payout-313877

    Posted 1 month ago #

  16. Baldcyclist
    Member

    Yeah, I had read that story, poor chap. I presume poor QC by the fork manufacturer led to this. You'd hope they'd have sorted that after this incident.
    Might be worth spending a bit more and getting a Ribble...

    Posted 1 month ago #

  17. Baldcyclist
    Member

    I've done some man maths and managed to convince myself to buy a Sonder Camino Ti, with Rival electronic groupset.
    I've got my final C2W payment on the MTB to make at end July, so I have just over a month to convince myself otherwise.

    Main reasons, was put off the Tempest, and then I thought I'd buy a Ribble, though the Ribble bikes are good there seems to be customer support issues if things do go wrong. And although I've never had an issue with internet bikes, I usually build them myself from frame up so I am the warranty, with an expensive bike don't want that hasstle.

    The Camino seems to be mentioned in the same sentance as the Ribble in many reviews, and I discovered there was an Alpkit shop in Edinburgh, so popped in at the weekend to have a look, and the sales chap was really good, answered all my thousands of questions fully, and sized me properly for the frame (I'm between sizes).

    So, for me just came down to, if you are going to spend a small fortune on a bike, having somewhere local for support seems a no brainer. They'll aso fit my own pedals, handlebar gel pads, and saddle on collection.

    So I just need to contain myself for 6 weeks or so. :)

    Posted 1 month ago #

  18. LaidBack
    Member

    Alpkit have certainly pushed the boat out with the refit of old paper & print warehouse. I can remember going there when I worked at ad agency.
    Nice to support someone with people 'on the ground'.
    Be interested to see what you think of the bike!

    Posted 1 month ago #

  19. Baldcyclist
    Member

    So, I noticed Alpkit summer sale started so decided to buy bike and not wait for C2W. Still waiting impatiently for delivery, which will be next week. :D

    Anyway, I decided to go for the tubless upgrade. Was that madness, or do folks get on well with tubeless set up?

    It looks like it may actually be easier to sort a *P* than trying to wrestle a Marathon + off an on the wheel.

    I did buy a wee no name electric compressor pump, I presume it is as easy as putting a plug in and pumping up when a *P* happens?

    Posted 3 weeks ago #

  20. mcairney
    Member

    I'm now running tubeless on all my bikes and would say tubeless tyres are great in terms of comfort (you can run them at slightly lower pressures than tubes) and are good for avoiding punctures from thorns/flint/pieces of glass. In many cases they will puncture and re-seal without you knowing, or with a finger on the hole while the sealant does it's thing.
    They're still vulnerable to larger punctures though which can be a tricky, messy roadside fix so you'll still need a spare tube, pump and tyre levers just in case. Tubeless tyres are generally extremely tight by necessity.
    It's worth having a bottle of sealant and topping your tyres up every couple of months too as the sealant dries out over time.
    Finally you'll either need an extremely fancy track bump with 'boost' or get your LBS to set up a fresh tyre with tubeless. Tubeless tyres are also slightly more expensive but that's probably just bike industry gimmick tax.

    Posted 2 weeks ago #

  21. acsimpson
    Member

    It's sometimes possible to put on a tubeless tyre without a boost pump. First fit it with a tube so that one side is fitted into the rim. The other side then may then bed itself with a fast enough track pump action.

    The next method is to use a 2 litre fizzy drink bottle, 2 old presta valves, a length of flexible tubing and a glue gun. You convert the lid to a two way valve and pump the bottle up to about 100 psi before releasing it all at once into the tyre. If you are interested then DuckDuckGo will hopefully fill in the blanks, including reminding you about the dangers of pressurised containers.

    Posted 2 weeks ago #

  22. Baldcyclist
    Member

    "so you'll still need a spare tube"

    I thought for bigger punctures you just stuck a noodle in it?

    I'm going to have to investigate a boost pump.

    I'll see how I get on with this bike. My MTB is tubeless ready so might do that as well.

    Posted 2 weeks ago #

  23. Dave
    Member

    FWIW we don't have anything more than a normal track pump, and I seat tubeless tyres with a tube first then just by pumping the track pump normally. If that doesn't work, you can use a co2 cartridge in lieu, which if you only need to do it once every couple of years is pretty competitive with buying a blaster pump. Depends very much on the tyre rim combo

    Posted 2 weeks ago #

  24. Baldcyclist
    Member

    Bike has arrived, and it's nice :) - though the tan wall tyres were unavailable so just black ones. :(

    Not been anywhere far on it yet, but there are some things that are bewildering to me about it.

    The tyres although knobbly seem to roll well, unlike my MTB when I stop peddling it keeps rolling, which is a little weird to comprehend, also how wide the tyres look out in front is a bit weird. Sure they will be grand, and can be changed for something a little less than 45mm in future.

    That said, I went a little along the path to Aberdour with the boy last night and those wider tyres do smooth outh that path, it's definately not so bone shaking as my 28mm M+s on that path. THat's a definate plus.

    It rides nice and smooth, and the position is quite upright, which is good for my neck, I can ride on the hoods in comfort for the first time in years.

    The bike has through axles, and I had to install front wheel when it arrived. It did seem more fiddly to get the wheel on, but that's a minor thing and I'm sure I'll get used to that.

    One thing that does seem weird is the rear mech is mounted on the through axle and not on a hanger. I'm curious if that means the rear mech will fall off if taking back wheel out, not investigated that yet.

    The electronic shifting is nice, but takes a wee bit of getting used to with the one by set up, and up and down buttons being on different shifter. After a week of riding I guess that will seem normal.

    It's also quite a lot lighter than it's predecessor (about 4kg all in), but somehow still seems robust, hopefully that weight saving will translate to happier legs. :)

    Posted 1 week ago #

  25. ejstubbs
    Member

    "One thing that does seem weird is the rear mech is mounted on the through axle and not on a hanger. I'm curious if that means the rear mech will fall off if taking back wheel out, not investigated that yet."

    That's pretty standard for SRAM high-end stuff these days. AFAIK it started with their Eagle MTB drivetrain and has spread to their products for other disciplines since. There's quite a good video by Seth of Berm Peak about SRAM Eagle and its lack of a derailleur hanger here:

    [+] Embed the video | Video DownloadGet the Flash Video

    As explained in that video, one potentially positive side-effect is that SRAM licensed their "Universal Derailleur Hanger" design, and the drive side rear axle mount design to accommodate it*, free to anyone who wanted to use it. Which should mean that over time most half-decent bikes will end up having that common rear derailleur hanger design and you won't need to shop around to find the one that fits your frame every time you have a mishap which ends up bending your derailleur hanger. Until someone comes up with a "better" standard design and we descend into a morass of competing standards again (see bottom bracket designs ad nauseam).

    * Which is also what Eagle and its derivates mount to, albeit without a derailleur hanger as you have noticed.

    Posted 1 week ago #

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