So much for N...
My single speed raliegh build is not going well so I'm looking at alternatives. Does any one have any experience of the Revolution track? Either that or a pompino but that'll come to a couple of hundred quid more.
CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Stuff
Thinking about a ne bike...
(39 posts)-
Posted 13 years ago #
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The Track looks nice. At that price it's a real bargain. I'll probably have spent nearly as much on my build using mostly second hand parts (just a few essentials have been bought new).
Posted 13 years ago # -
I think when there was a "what singlespeed should I get" by excitable boy, he tested the Revolution Track against Genesis DayOne and it was hands down to the DayOne. The track comes out rather heavy for a singlespeed I believe.
If it's a frame you're after, I have a Giant Bowery 72 (the red one, not white one) in very good condition that I stripped most of the bits off. Left the BB, fork, headset, stem, bars and brake levers on it, other bits went onto my own SS build. Proper track ends and everything. Just needs wheels, brakes, chain and crankset.
Posted 13 years ago # -
I confess to being a lazy swine, and despite saying I would build or convert from old, following the excellent bad advice of the people who answered in the thread I started, I wimped out and bought new instead; a DayOne, about two hours ago.
I suppose it still counts as my requested bad advice, given it was namechecked by kaputnik in that thread.
I've only been on it for a handful of miles, and I freely admit my opinion is that of a n00bscum, but I love it so far. It's like riding a teleporter.
Bear in mind the Pompino Urban has £200 knocked off it at the minute, down to £399.
Posted 13 years ago # -
Kaputnik has a good memory (I believe it was - am I too old for a singlespeed?). I was planning on getting the rev track and took it for a spin around the block, I thought it was good, especially for the price. However, since it was an n+1 purchase and it would be a good while till I could justify another I tried the Genesis and loved it.
The track was in the sale when I was in EBC today, under £300 I think - you could twist their arm to give you that price, worth a try.Posted 13 years ago # -
I forgot about that thread, oops!
@crowriver I'm approaching the cost of that bike with my build too, the only redeeming feature is mine has a slightly better gear.
@kaputnik I might take you up on that, I'm going to try filing the frame first nothing to loose at this stage the bent hanger means the frame is toast any way.
The day one is way out the budget unfortunately the pompino looks like a good deal though, have to wait till after my hols though .
Posted 13 years ago # -
Does the axel need to be right at the back of the drop out or can it be a little further out if the skewer is tight? The 18t is nearly there but gets too tight when it's forced right in to the drop out.
Posted 13 years ago # -
Is it a vertical dropout? Or slopingy-slidey-forwardy-backy one?
It can be anywhere where it is firmly bolted in and is fully clamped on the dropout. There's usually 2 little screws that you can screw in and out to get it lined up straight, and stop it slipping back under braking torque.
Posted 13 years ago # -
I think this frame is too cheap to have such conveniences as screws to help out.
This is the drop out, there looks to be plenty of material at the back I could remove safely.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49248828@N06/6137531161Posted 13 years ago # -
ah so it is a more modern frame so has a sloping-slidey-uppy-downy sorts of dropouts rather than slopingy-slidey-forwardey-backy ones, so moving the wheel around isn't really going to do much to the tension on the chain.
In answer to your question, you could pull the axle down a little bit, but it's always in danger of sliding back up to the top from constant forces on it. Particularly as it is on a QR - bolted on with tracknuts is the usual setup for SS. That could mean that brake blocks are no longer aligned to the rim correctly or if it moves asymmetrically the tyre could start to rub on frame, chain gets warped...
Are you trying to use the derailleur as a chain tensioner? I think the solution might be to use one that clamps around the chainstay and lose the derailleur.
Posted 13 years ago # -
This is what you need :)
Posted 13 years ago # -
I hear a lot about not using QR skewers for single speed setups. Presumably this is to stop the chain slackening if the wheel slips forward a bit. Surely if the skewers are tight enough, this won't happen?
Just don't fancy the palaver of converting QR axles to bolt-ons...
Posted 13 years ago # -
You can use a QR on a SS if you can get it tight enough. It's just much easier to get the axle lined up straight, the chain tensioned and then fixed tightly with tracknuts.
Track ends are easier than slopingy-slidey-forwardy-backy dropouts as there are little screws through the axle and a cup that sits around the fork of the track end that you can use to fine-tune the position fore and aft while keeping it held tightly in place until you tighten up the tracknuts.
Posted 13 years ago # -
Posted 13 years ago #
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This might just be new bike/n00bscum hypochondria, but when I'm turning the cranks backwards by hand there's a slight but perceptible increase in chain tension at one point in the rotation.
Can't feel any difference when it's actually pedalling, mind. Do I run in a panic back to the shop, cradling it in my arms and screaming "My Baby! My Baby!" in the manner of plane crash cinematic mothers?
Posted 13 years ago # -
Apparently for Sheldon (RIP) it's all in the quality of the 'acorn nut'. Steel is real here too, it seems. Pretty sure mine have 'crappy' aluminium 'boutique' acorn nuts, though they do have enclosed cams. So, new manly steel acorn nuts required: fleaBay/LBS here I come!
Posted 13 years ago # -
@uberuce that is normal, the cog and sprocket aren't perfectly circular. When tightening the chain, make sure the crank is in the position where the chain "bites", otherwise it will at worst bind on pedalling and at best will be draggy
Posted 13 years ago # -
@crowriver
Yes, for SS/Fixed you can use QR - I do.
In a nutshell (not an acorn, ho ho) you ideally want Shimano, Steel, enclosed cam QRs.
As opposed to poncey no-name lightweight ones which would be supplied on many newer bikes.
Alternative to ebay/LBS - as they strip many an old bike, The Bike Station usually has plenty, some are pretty decent too.
Posted 13 years ago # -
@ crowriver
Small addendum to mine - apart from getting enough pressure from good quality QRs, another reason steel QRs are ok is that the steel teeth can get enough purchase on the frame to hold in position.
However, I am using these on a steel framed bike - not sure if the QR solution would have as much integrity on other materials?
Posted 13 years ago # -
I'm using Shimano Deore skewers just now, which are enclosed cam but I'm pretty sure the nuts at either end are alloy, not steel. Steel framed bike. As a compromise I've gone for allen key head 'security' skewers, as old qr skewers with steel nuts seem tricky to find...
We'll see if it works! If not, down to the Bike Station for some old skool QR skewers (only just seen this advice)...
EDIT - actually my Shimano skewers may have steel threaded inserts, so I might have just wasted my time and money. Never mind, my hybrid can use the 'security' skewers instead...
Posted 13 years ago # -
Kaputnik I'm guessing you don't think filing is going to help either then? Getting the brakes to line up might be problematic.
The chainstay mounted tensioners seem to go for more money than i'd like to pay for a jockey wheel and an aluminium frame. I'm starting to think the track ended frame solution might be the best...
I did consider changing to a bolt through but its a good shimano qr and I can't be bothered!
Posted 13 years ago # -
Wouldn't a QR acorn (?) be steel under the plastic cover?
Posted 13 years ago # -
@steveo - Probably depends - the material is definitely less robust than decent steel ones. Some of the rubbishy ones on my mountain bike, the teeth can be damaged quite easily.
Main issue for me is that you get excellent pressure from the decent ones.
As kaputnik says, if you are at all unsure, give tracknuts a go.
Posted 13 years ago # -
Have been harping on for ages about building my old Giant up as a winter hack to save my shiny 'good' (only) bike.
After looking at prices to build back up - SRAM Apex groupset ~£400, and handlebars, and wheels, and saddle, and ..., and...
I came to the conclusion this (http://www.dolan-bikes.com/road-bikes/aluminium/Sram/Preffisio%20Road%20Bike?product_id=463) would be a better buy?But!... the Cervelo has now done over 10,000 miles in 3 years and the frame is still perfectly shiny, so it really just does need components renewed when they wear now (and yes they can be expensive).
So, dilemma is...Is it really worth spending ~£700 on a winter bike, or do I just keep running the Cervelo into the ground as it seems to be coping fine?
Only real annoyance with the Cervelo is that you can't fit mudguards because there is no clearance.Posted 12 years ago # -
Think you have to think about what you want from a bike in terms of reliability, weight, speed, comfort, safety (in a braking/tyre sense).
Then decide by colour...
Posted 12 years ago # -
Or...Watch online carefully and spend the 700 on a full replacement groupset in the sales (ie at half price) and then in the spring clean up the frame and fit all new components B-)
Posted 12 years ago # -
Buy crap frame with good groupset and fit it to the Cervelo frame? (then you're back to square one with the n+1 frames. Or square two n+2 frames...)
Posted 12 years ago # -
The Cervelo got treated to a new SRAM Force groupset about 6 months ago, so I'm hoping not to be spending any more on that for a while (other than consumables).
I do have a full Ultegra groupset (which originally came off of the Giant, and then onto Cervelo), but brakes are shot, and so is the front mech, actually shifters are really only serviceable bit.
Was just exploring the Cycle to work scheme which the Uni is part of. Not so sure about the advertised potential 40% saving, think HMRC have killed that!
Looking at figures you would pay £483 over the 12 month hire period, followed by a payment of 25% of original cost of bike, so a total of £658 all in.
Still a saving of £42 with no interest on the payments, so still good value, just not the advertised *potential* 40% saving.[Edit]I think the *potential* saving of 40% is based on an assumption that you will get a new bike every year, and hand old one back to employer.
Posted 12 years ago # -
"think the *potential* saving of 40% is based on an assumption that you will get a new bike every year, and hand old one back to employer"
The higher 'savings' were based on high earnings/tax rates.
Also on the notion that bike value was 5% after 2 years.
Think that HMRC must have made a ruling...
Posted 12 years ago # -
The saving of 40% is for high tax payers who keep the bike for 5 years a which point the market value drops to 5%. For the rest of us the saving is more like 25% if your employer passes the vat saving back.
Posted 12 years ago #
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