Shimano DH-3N80 hub, 32 hole, built into Mavic Openpro rims.
Busch & Muller IQ Cyo N+ headlight. 60 lux. The "plus" means it has the standlight (will remain lit at a lower intensity for a few minutes when you stop). The "N" signifies a lens that has a lighting pattern that "misses out" a section of the road between about 1 and 4m away, focussing the light ahead of you on the road so you can see things before it's too late to take avoiding action. There's decent "spill" from the lens to light up the area direct around your front wheel. The "R" has a reflector built in to the lens and also focusses the light across the whole of the road ahead of you. What I'm trying to describe is that the "N" is suited towards faster riding, and concentrates the 60 lux output over a smaller area and slightly further away. The "R" focusses the same output over a wider area, more suited to a slower riding on less predictable surfaces. The other option you can buy is "Senseo" which has a light sensitive diode that turns the lamp on for you when it's dull or dark enough to need it.
My thoughts? Completely love it. Best light I've ever owned, but then again it doesn't have too much competition! There are brighter lights, but the lens is very clever, you get a rather wonderful oblong beam on the road ahead, with sufficient spread left and right to pick out corners or obstructions at side of road. You don't really need the illumination directly infront/below of you as you should be watching the road further ahead.
It is not the cheapest or easiest or most flexible way to get good light on your bike though.
The best of the Shimano dynamos cost about £80. SON hubs have a better reputation, seem to offer slightly more efficiency and lower resistance and a price to match. The IQ Cyo again about £70-80. Supernova LEDs up to a couple of hundred pounds. Halogen or lower output B&M LED lights have lower prices but lower performance and there's no reason to run halogen anymore.
Then the cost of building a wheel around it (lower if you recycle your existing rim into it, if it's worth it). They aren't widely available off the shelf, you'll most likely have to order online or through a shop catalogue. Lastly, once the light is installed, it's a faff to move around between bikes - the wheel is easy enough, being on a QR, but the lamp itself is clamped through the brake retaining bolt and it is recommended that you wrap the wire around the fork on the way down and cable tie it on.
Really selling it, amn't I! But if you want a good, bright, ever-present, ever-reliable light that you never need to worry about batteries for and that is compact and won't interfere with your handlebars, it could be the way to go! The overall cost would be comparable with a high quality battery operated headlight.
You can of course also wire in a rear light, there is sufficient output from the hub and most front lights have clips or terminals to allow this. Some brands of lights are not inter-operable. Tail light selection seems limited to mudguard or rack mounts and I found them hard to source. I couldn't be bothered with the faff and you can buy a much better battery operated rear LED for less price.