I seem to recall someone on here complaining about EBC selling commuting bikes without essentials such as mudguards and racks... looks like they must read the forum too ;-))
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f%5FProductID=12422&f%5FFullProductVersion=1&f%5FSupersetQRY=K%2A%2A%2A%5F100310%5F0000100&f%5FSortOrderID=1&f%5Fbct=
CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Stuff
"Real" bikes..
(30 posts)-
Posted 14 years ago #
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Not hub gears, no fully enclosed chain case, no generator lights.
How about something like this for winter:
Posted 14 years ago # -
Even better :-) but why only the winter? ;-)
Posted 14 years ago # -
Because in the summer you don't get grit in your chain so you don't need a chaincase. In the winter chains last me a couple of months.
Posted 14 years ago # -
But you can get your trousers in your chain all year round.
And vice versa. I don't think I have any that don't have a stripe of oil on the inside right ankle.
Posted 14 years ago # -
Ahh, I spend a lot of the year wearing shorts. I was out in them today and not even on a bike. I had been going to wear sandals but number four son was prohibited from wearing his by order of the memsahib so I had to fall in with the ranks and stick with sneakers.
Typically I'm more concerned with the weather's effect on the bike than anything else.
Posted 14 years ago # -
Well said Min! My home built hybrid has a chain ring and full mudguards etc but the one day I wore grey trousers to work last week was the day I bumped against the chain whilst manouevring the bike around on the train, resulting in wandering around all day with a dirty great chain/oil mark on my trousers :-(
Most annoying! If I can find a "proper" chainguard that'll fit, I may well fit one. imho the amount of maintenance needed to keep a chain decent on a bicycle is minimal, (by comparison a despatch riders motorcycle needs chain lube at least every wet day otherwise your £80 chain will be scrap in a week!) but the mess is a right pain!Posted 14 years ago # -
We have one of the Streetfinders -- a couple of years old now. Seems to have held up well. We had to change the rack, but otherwise no components needed to be added, although rear wheel was subsequently replaced for sturdier model.
I went for what I thought was a similar bike, but with mountain-bike style wheels (the pathfinder?), because I wanted more stability, and it is just too heavy. The Streetfinder is much easier to lift - eg up the stairs at Haymarket.
Posted 14 years ago # -
Just been to the Tesco Metro to get play pieces for kids lunches tomorrow. I was wearing shorts of course.
My chains don't last well in the grit and I can feel the difference if I let them run too long. Usually I check them every week and replace them once they get 1% over length. Today it was 0.5% and 0.25% for the ones I'm using at the moment. Once a chain gets worn it wears the sprockets faster so you need to replace them too.
I'd looked on the enclosed chain case on Dutch bikes as a protective thing for the bike, not the rider. I'm always dressed in black anyway.
Posted 14 years ago # -
You all need to ride fixed... ;)
Three chains in the space of 2 and a half years on the current fixed (maybe about 5,000 miles?). Mostly commuting in all weathers, the chains seem to last a little better. New one just went on actually, so it's about 5,000 miles on two chains really. Noticed when changing to this one that that chainring has a few teeth missing now - probably still got a good couple of thousand miles left in it...
Posted 14 years ago # -
"You all need to ride fixed... ;)"
Actually I assume single speed chains would last longer as they wouldn't have the braking stress.
Of course it's well recognised that chains last longer with hub gears. The 'problem' with deraileur chains is that they are 'constantly' being shifted/twisted in different directions - more gears/changes mean more wear.
Posted 14 years ago # -
Fixed wheel bikes would usually use a 1/8" chain... at least back when I used one going to school in the '80s they did.
Posted 14 years ago # -
Not an absolute requirement these days, loads of fixed stuff produced in 3/32", but yep, I run 1/8". chdot is right about the side-to-side movement required in multi-geared derailleur systems being the nub of the problem.
I'm been through more chains than I care to remember on the 9-speed MTB (though I've only gone through one on the 10-speed Kaff in a couple of years).
Posted 14 years ago # -
"You all need to ride fixed... ;)"
With all the fixed gear advocacy around I worked out what the typical fixed gear development equivalent is on a derailleur system and set off on my usual training ride south from Musselburgh in that gear and stayed in it as long as I could. The subsequent knee pain took about two weeks to disappear. So it's definitely not for everyone.Posted 14 years ago # -
Nothing's for eveyone.
Posted 14 years ago # -
Alternatives are available
Posted 14 years ago # -
I'm a wee bit peeved at the all new shiny trendiness of it. I was using one in the 80s. I was still using one in '93 to get round Glasgow.
Deja vu all over again.
Posted 14 years ago # -
"I'm a wee bit peeved at the all new shiny trendiness of it."
I predict the new trend will be 3 speed hubs - not just the 'new' fixed variety.
Posted 14 years ago # -
Already got a few of those so I'm ahead again.
I wish my mum hadn't tossed out the Raleigh 20 with DynoHub.
Posted 14 years ago # -
DynoHub
Used to like them, but a bit too under powered by today's 'standards'.
Made a 5 speed DynoHub once!
Posted 14 years ago # -
Hmmm, how did you do that? Can you fit 5 speed internals into a 3 speed dynohub shell?
I got a vice off my dad at the weekend so I'll not need to grip the axel flats with a big Bahco spanner anymore.
Posted 14 years ago # -
Nope
You need to start with an FG - never the most reliable of hubs! (Check how the pawls work.)
Posted 14 years ago # -
Ahh, OK, start with a 4 speed DynoHub.
I've never had a 5 speed but I understand how they work. I don't know how the sequence of levers works on them. Normal gear is in the middle but do you flick the left or right first to move up to second? I guess the left lever makes no difference to the middle gear, unless that isn't the direct drive one.
I don't know how they made a 4 speed. So do the pawls on the 5 speed line up with the 4 speed?
Posted 14 years ago # -
"I don't know how the sequence of levers works on them. Normal gear is in the middle but do you flick the left or right first to move up to second? I guess the left lever makes no difference to the middle gear, unless that isn't the direct drive one."
More or less - there where various levers available for the the first 5 speed, twin toggle chain, hub - including a thumb shifter that worked both cables.
"So do the pawls on the 5 speed line up with the 4 speed?"
No, the five speed part is the use of the extra pull on the left hand clutch.
You mean you haven't looked at http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/images/photos/pic-69.1.jpg !
(The 3 pawls are part K 413 and work at right angles to the normal method. Diagram doesn't show this at all clearly.)
They get severely chewed if toggle chain and hub aren't adjusted properly, consequently it's 'normal' for first gear to slip!
Posted 14 years ago # -
Umm... yes, have been known to have look at cut away and exploded diagrams of these items but they don't make as much sense as when you can take the thing apart and put it back together again.
What did K413 engage on? It took me a while to find as it doesn't look like a pawl but K414 beside it is the spring so I think I have the right part.
It looks like the low and high gear planets are one piece, K416. Are they permanently engaged with different annulus rings/sun gear?
Posted 14 years ago # -
There is a FW cutaway here:
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/sa/safw.pdf
and it looks like planets are engaged with different sun gears. The right hand plant seems to have a large section which is not in contact with the sun so perhaps it moves left/right.
Posted 14 years ago # -
"There is a FW cutaway here:
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/sa/safw.pdf
and it looks like planets are engaged with different sun gears. The right hand plant seems to have a large section which is not in contact with the sun so perhaps it moves left/right."
THAT is a much better drawing than the official site!
The FW and FG are very different.
Page 2 here http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~hadland/sa/safg.pdf shows the pawls and springs but not the face (the dynamo is on the other side) that they run against.
There are two sets of sun/planets.
If you want to see something really complicated
[+] Embed the video | Video Download Get the Flash Video Of course you know about http://hubstripping.wordpress.com
Posted 14 years ago # -
Yes, I tried a Duomatic on a Moulton a long time ago. The OLN is too big for a Brompton. It would mean no cables going to the back end and that would get round the wear and tear where they bend at the BB when folded.
I'm quite impressed by what SA are doing after coming back from the dead and being ignored as part of Raleigh for years.
Have you seen the Dursley Pederson in Glasgow Transport museum? It has a non epicyclic hub gear.
Posted 14 years ago # -
I think as cycling gets more popular it's naturally in the commuting side of things that the real growth will be seen, and that internal hub gears will DEFINITELY make a huge comeback. It should maintain the fixed/singlespeed craze as well, for a while at least.
There's a Pedersen I saw in Edinburgh a couple of months or so back - now there would be an interesting trend!
Posted 14 years ago #
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