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Rear Light

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  1. mgj
    Member

    After many (10 plus I think) years of great service my CatEye rear LED flasher has given up the ghost (if it isnt a LD500, it certainly looks like it). Anyone any recommnedations for a replacement? Needs to flash and be a reflector, as I have a big solid red thing already, or should I just go for the LD500 and maybe not even have to take the fitting off the old one.

    Also, driving last night, there are some incredibly bright lights on bikes in the West of the city, many of which were actually painful to look at, especially some white flashers. Any views on whether they are safe/r?

    Posted 11 years ago #
  2. wingpig
    Member

    Insto has the Light & Motion [whatever-the-designation-of-the-USB-rechargeable-rear-version-is] and it's painfully bright up to 100m away, though quite pricey. Don't know if it flashes but it does a nice pulsing thing which ought to draw most normal attentions. For solidness and brightness the AA-using CatEye TL-AU100BS is very nice, contains a reflector and can occasionally be found for a pittance in the Bike Station's light drawer.

    For similar prices (but without reflectors) the Cherry Bomb is light and smaller but bright and flishy, the Electron broad-bean-shaped thing I picked up in an EBC sale a year ago lasts for ages in bright flashy mode (and is usually used to supplement my rear light's standlight) and the i-shaped Smart picked up in the summer sale is similarly reassuringly retina-damaging.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  3. DaveC
    Member

    Cateye LD600/610?

    Given the others brand of lights I have bought since this one I think I wasted my money on the others. I should have just bought more of these.

    Those Smart 1/2 what jobbies are good, but the lights with red clear cover and white clear circular lense have a hole for the LED to poke out of. Lets in water and is ok once dried out but I just stuck selotape over to keep the water out.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  4. kaputnik
    Moderator

    Re very bright front lights. Sometimes they are neccessary, if (DaveC's post the other day) you commute on unlit roads and paths, just to see where you're going and if you're about to run over a ninja and ninjadog.

    In town, sometimes a bright front light is required to pick out surface problems (potholes, glass, cracks, general Edinburgh rubbishness). However it should be a light with a good lens and it should be pointed at the ground infront of you. It should not be pointing upwards or even flatwards. That just directs the light into the eyes of other road users.

    Intensly bright strobing lights - the relatively cheap and high powered things you can buy like Knogs - I dislike and I think do just as much harm as good - especially when used on paths.

    They generally lack any (or a decent) lens to focus the output, and spill light all over the place. Because they are pulsing, they don't light the path infront of the rider and the flashing on/off/on/off light light serves only to keep the iris closed and impede night vision for both the rider and anyone coming the other way. Other cyclists do not need to see the other rider from 3 miles away, a couple of hundred feet is quite sufficient. A dazzling, flashing light also does not make it easy to judge relative speed and distance of the source.

    Bright, helmet mounted flashing lights are the worst, as they are as close to eye-level as you're going to get.

    For blinkyness, lower power lights are great. They're bright enough to be seen (without blinding other users), they're cheap and reliable and last for a long time and the flashing attracts the eye and helps you be seen. A flashing light seen on the road also indicates "bike coming".

    Perhaps someone has other opinions on high-powered strobe headlights, but I'd tend to disagree.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  5. Baldcyclist
    Member

    I use the Cateye TL-LD1100, as a rear light, one row flashing, one row solid.

    I use 2 front lights, one high powered Cateye EL600 on a solid beam - but not high powered enough for my blind eyes on A90 cycle path, hate it, cant see the path at the narrow bits, can't cycle more that 5mph, I'm a danger to anyone who might be behind me! - and one low powered flashey. I think they are good because they attract attention, more than a solid beam will, but yes they have to be well positioned.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  6. DaveC
    Member

    Don't ride on the A90 in the Dark? Head down Dalmeny estate on the tarmac road and up the hill to the gatehouse you meet at the top of the A90 hill. A little more climbing - though I recall you don't like hills.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  7. Baldcyclist
    Member

    I like climbing, it's just that my lungs disagree, and they seem to have more say in the matter than me. ;-P

    Posted 11 years ago #
  8. Coxy
    Member

    Ye, the Cateye TL-LD1100.
    "The Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch"

    Posted 11 years ago #
  9. gkgk
    Member

    I like the Smart R1 Lunar at £11. The LED is 1 watt, apparently, good for being spotted amongst car brake lights, I think. DaveC
    mentioned the LED being exposed on the half watt version and I think it's the same with this one but that the reflector is meant to sit snugly against the LED making a weather seal. No problems with mine in v wet weather anyway, so far.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  10. crowriver
    Member

    I have one of these on the rear carrier of my Globe hybrid. Doesn't flash/blink (it's just simply switched on, or off) but has a great big reflector. Something similar with 2 LEDs is on the bike I use for Audax.

    Another light that I really like is this Raleigh one. Very bright with lots of different flashing modes and reasonable twin red reflectors too.

    Both lights are waterproof, never any problems. Batteries last for ages. Neither is expensive.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  11. kaputnik
    Moderator

    I was recommended to avoid the Lezyne rear lights - they're the same white LEDs as the front version simply with a red filter over them, so hardly appropriate for a rear and with a lower lifetime too.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  12. Uberuce
    Member

    I saw a light last week which hands-down wins the award for Worst Blink Pattern* thanks to a randomised and overly slow pattern that amplifies the speed/location judgement problem Kaputnik mentioned. Needless to say, the person using it was dressed as a ninja on a black bike.

    *if one is ignoring the existence of photosenstive epilepsy, which makes you a silly person. I'm just not willing to use the blink mode on my NiteRider since it's like Hitgirl's xenon light towards the end of Kick-Ass, and I don't want to give someone a really bad day for the sake of some battery life.

    I personally find that the winning combination is a weak blinky and a stronger solid light mounted close enough together that the eye considers them a single unit.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  13. chdot
    Admin

    "I personally find that the winning combination is a weak blinky and a stronger solid light mounted close enough together that the eye considers them a single unit."

    That's an interesting notion.

    Have you followed your bike or seen others with same set-up?

    I have been putting them in different places - non-flash on seatpost and wee flasher down seatstay.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  14. Nelly
    Member

    I am using a 1W cherry bomb on the carradice, plus this cateye bodged onto a headband as an additional high level rear light.

    Keeps my cap on in the wind as an added bonus !

    Posted 11 years ago #
  15. Uberuce
    Member

    Saw the dual-mode plan shortly into last winter and never stopped preferring it. I can't discount the chance that other folk's eyes find other combinations better, should I have a clone out there who drives, he'll spot you first and judge your line quickest on blink+solid snuggling.

    I don't completely follow my own advice since I've mounted one rear light high up. I only did this over the weekend after a long and frustrating session of attempting to helmet mount my new Cherrybomb, which is now in the usual saddlepost position.

    It occurred to me after a million failed bodgings that any time I'm so concerned about my visibility that I'll have two lights then I'd be wearing my brickie's vest too, so I just popped a hole in the nape of the neck and fed my Smart 1/2 red through it, on the grounds that it has the grippier clip. Keeps it independent of the helmet, which doesn't have a useless mount in daytime.

    The variability of the angle it sits at is a downside, but I reckon a helmet mount has that problem too as well as a greater one of lateral movement.

    Haven't used the Cherrybomb for long enough to review it, but it's helluva bright and the mount is good and flexible.

    The Smart 1/2 watt is pretty burly too, took a canal-dunking on the chin and has excellent battery life.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  16. Snowy
    Member

    +1 for the Cateye TL-LD1100. We've got two of them and they've survived several winters of commuting with no problems.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  17. kaputnik
    Moderator

    LD-1100 looks like it gives good all-round illumination, while focussing majority of light rearwards. Good for side-on visibility.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  18. fimm
    Member

    I run 1 blink, 1 steady, next to one another on the seatpost, simply because that's the easiest place to mount them (especially on the Brompton, where alternatives are either too low down or vulnerable to the fold). I'm thinking of getting a third for the seatstay (I think that's what I mean) of the road bike - any reccommenations for something that will mount there?

    I agree that a single flashing light, especially the slow flash that you can get on a front light, is not the best. My second front light on the B has died so I'm running a single on steady there at the moment.

    Slightly OT, but does anyone know where I can get reflective (not hi-vis) arm/leg bands?

    Posted 11 years ago #
  19. Uberuce
    Member

    I got legbands free from Streets Ahead, Uberuce said unhelpfully.

    Cheap and cheerful version is to ask someone in the contruction or janitorial sectors if they've got a knackered old vest kicking about. Most building sites seem to have around eleven at any given point.

    The 3M strips come off cleanly and can be bodged onto clothing at leisure. I did that for cuffs of my ski gloves so that my indicators, colloquially known as hands, work in the dark.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  20. steveo
    Member

    As above I like a solid and a flashing front and rear. Front a EBC single led unit integrated into a rubber holder which works very well and swaps between bikes and doubles as a stand light for the dynamo.

    On the rear; last week I would have recommended the cherry bomb but the 9 month old 1 watt fell out the bracket some where along the road and the 18 month old one randomly turns it self off so I've had to supplement it with another not so bright light.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  21. kaputnik
    Moderator

    +1 on the Cherry Bomb coming with a useless bracket and +1 on my older one having random turning-itself-off habits that you don't know about until you get home and find yoruself unlit. Shame, as otherwise it's a great light.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  22. Min
    Member

    Crowriver - is your rack light reliable? I would like one to replace my pants one that became unreliable then packed in after about 2 months.

    Agreed about high powered flashing lights. Makes it very difficult to tell where the cyclist is and how fast they are going. Multiple flashing lights are even worse. Having said that, if the battery starts to fade mid ride on mine, the way to extend the life and get me home would be to put it on flash mode. I would do this rather than ride without a front light at all. This might account for some instances?

    Posted 11 years ago #
  23. crowriver
    Member

    @Min, it has worked for three and a half years, so I'd say it's reliable. Bolt on to the rear rack and forget about it. On/off switch very conveniently located on the underside of the light too. Only had to change the batteries once so far.

    Oh, found a cheaper deal on this light if that helps.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  24. Min
    Member

    Nice one, thank you. I should just go ahead and do it, sitting round feeling bitter about the old one doesn't help me. ;-)

    Posted 11 years ago #
  25. SRD
    Moderator

    Min - I still feel bitter about my rsp racklight too (despite the bike chain kindly replacing it once).

    But, for the folder, I bought one like what Crowriver describes from the Sustrans online shop. Not as cheap as the ebay ones, but good customer services.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  26. kaputnik
    Moderator

    @Min a light on your pants is taking it a bit too far is it not?

    Posted 11 years ago #
  27. Min
    Member

    Well it gets me noticed. ;-)

    SRD - looks good as well. I don't have rack holes, would this one zip tie on do you think? Maybe I should just bodge on some sort of light mount..

    Posted 11 years ago #
  28. kaputnik
    Moderator

    Zip-tieing the mount onto the rack is very satisfactory solution. Works on my touring bike rack anyway. Just use a decent thickness of tie that won't wear out easily or go brittle and snap.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  29. SRD
    Moderator

    No. Unfortunately, I don't think zipties would work...Laidback bodged my rsp racks on for me with p clips though.(one of the reasons I am bitter about them being so lousy is that he put a tonne of work into it)

    The Dahon rack has a bracket for racklights, unlike the blackburn, which needed the bodge.

    Posted 11 years ago #
  30. Min
    Member

    Yes, it is a slight worry but two decent ones on each side ought to make it secure.

    Posted 11 years ago #

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