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not resolvedOK, trying to remove a stuck right-hand pedal from my old mtb. Seems to be locked in place by about 3000miles and a lack of attention.
Have tried:
WD40 & GT85 into thread.
Heating the crank with a hairdryer.
Sharp tap with hammer on the 15mm spanner.
Heavy whacks with hammer on same spanner.
Swearing and bleeding on it.
None of the above worked. Need new suggestions...
Can you get the crank off and into a vice? You just need more leverage!
Put the crankset in the freezer and try the hairdrier trick again. If ineffective, refreeze and use something more heat-transferring.
I think towels soaked in boiling water might work, but will be tricky to handle. I'm 99% certain you know and own more devices that can transfer and focus heat then I, so I leave the rest your ingenuity.
Get the crank off, and soak the pedal spindle end in PlusGas for 24 hours. Then try the vice...
IF you can get a large spanner with the circular "ratchet" type 0 ring thing end onto the end of the spanner that is holding the pedal you can get some extra leverage. intersperse giving yourself a hernia with regular whacks with a hammer. Although I gouged my arm heavily with a chain ring doing this exact job once so if you are applying lots of torque leave it on the bike!
If you know anyone who works in labs you may be able to get an aerosol can of cryospray to apply to the spindle at the same time as heating the arm.
Take it into a bike shop, where they will have an extremely long pedal spanner for precisely this sort of thing. Wrap a rag around the exposed teeth of the chainring to avoid stabbing yourself, which means you can apply more force without unconsciously holding back to avoid self-impalement. Use two pedal spanners, protruding in different directions.
Simple brute force is worth a try. Get someone to hold the bike, putting their foot on the left pedal. Place a pedal spanner on the right pedal as if to unscrew, just lift yourself up, hands on the saddle and the handlebars, and place your entire body weight down on the pedal. It's quite safe to you - and you won't damage the spindle or the threading. It's what most bike mechanices try first - but you will need the proper spanner to get the best leverage. Good luck!
I have nothing useful to add, but enjoyed the descent into violence described in the opening post. In particular the change from 'sharp tap' to repeated heavy whacks.
Actually I can add something. From personal experience, make sure you're unscrewing the right way...
I've found that a 'creme brule' kitchen blow torch is excellent for heating up parts and freeing them. This even worked on my car!
When I've had this problem in the past, I sat on the bike, spanner in-situ and used my feet/leg power. I have no power in my arms and found this made all the difference. It may not work, but is easy enough to try. Winpigs suggestion of rags for protection is a good idea if you try this as when it does go, I guess it could go abruptly.
Good luck.
Forgot to add, normal household nail driving type hammers are a waste of time for this, you want ideally a nice heavy copper faced hammer, ideally head weight in the region of 2lb (if you're going to hit something you want to HIT it ;-) but with control)
In the absence of the above a steel hammer of similar weight but be even more certain you're wearing eye protection (and risking small steel splinters) but it's not nearly as effective as the soft faced one...
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