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Mileage of the Freewheel Mechanism...

(16 posts)
  • Started 11 years ago by TractorFactory
  • Latest reply from chdot

  1. TractorFactory
    Member

    On my commute in the other morning, my freewheel mechanism went. Something has crunched inside it and it's gone all clunky. Having just bought the bike new back in June, I've taken the wheel back to place of origin who've said they'll strip it down to find out what's gone wrong with it.

    I was wondering what other people's experience with this is. Have you ever had the freewheel mechanism fail on you and at what sort of time period or mileage?

    I do a fair bit of mileage (which I'll probably have to work out for when they get back to me), average 21 miles a working day.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  2. Cyclingmollie
    Member

    I've had a couple fail completely, on Shimano RS500 and 105 hubs. The RS500 failed after about 2,000 miles. The 105 after >10,000 miles. I couldn't find tools or parts to repair either so if you can get the shop to fix it that's a help.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  3. kaputnik
    Moderator

    I assume it's a freehub vs. a freewheel mechanism?

    I've run an RS500 until its rumbling and clunky, probably after about 4,000 miles but short of a total failure. It's Shimanos one-above-entry-level road wheel hub, comes pre-built into wheels.

    Tiagra freehub still running smooth and nice after c. 5,000 miles. Have a Deore XT freehub on my touring bike, also still fine after similar distances. 105 freehub also fine, think it's done about 2,500 miles.

    You could just have been unlucky.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  4. Roibeard
    Member

    I've had a freehub fail after years of commuting (I didn't count miles then, but probably 5-10,000 miles).

    It got a bit noisy then started to "slip", like a chain on a worn cassette under acceleration, in other words, the pedals turned, the cassette turned, but the wheel didn't (momentarily). It was a bit disconcerting, particularly as acceleration often means getting off the line at lights...

    Anyway, although Sheldon notes that the ratchet is replaceable, I just replaced the wheel on the advice of the bike shop, given the quality of the wheel versus the cost of an off-the-shelf wheel.

    Robert

    Posted 11 years ago #

  5. TractorFactory
    Member

    Thanks, I did a rough calculation that says I've done just under 3000 miles on it. Yes, freehub sounds like terminology that I heard mentioned when I took it back. It did sound like they could strip it to replace just the worn part rather than a full wheel replacement but I'm not that clued up on rear wheel mechanics to know what is or is not possible.

    I might get away with a freebie replacement, but it sounds like they have equal grounds for saying it's normal wear and tear which at 3000 odd miles I can't really contest I don't think.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  6. wingpig
    Member

    If you're regularly washing NEPN path-gunk off it then it might be as simple as the gunge from the drivetrain sneaking into the freehub body and bunging it up, exacerbated by occasional freezings at this time of year.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  7. TractorFactory
    Member

    Yes, I believe at the mileage I'm doing I may have to learn the inner workings of the hub and how to retrieve gunge.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  8. steveo
    Member

    Freehubs are sealed units Shimano have designed them to be removed and replaced not serviced. They are not that expensive and the time take to try get to the small bearings etc would be a proper pita.

    I got a few thousand miles out the OEM one on the fishers oem wheel set before it completely refused to engage but after trying a couple of things to revive it I just ordered a replacement from Trek for £15.

    The ones on my cheap entry level shimano wheelset lasted a few hundred miles before developing an annoying (extra) tick but performance never suffered replaced them in the end due to wear not the freehub.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  9. earthowned
    Member

    I found excessive degreasing of my chain and cassette led to the back wheel feeling crunchy*. Popped open the rear gubbins* to have a look at the innards and lo behold the bearings were dry as a bone. After a liberal splurge* of grease the problem disappeared. Your mileage may vary.

    *highly technical terms

    Posted 11 years ago #

  10. EddieD
    Member

    I've found Shimano units very reliable - on my old Hardrock, I replaced the initial unit when I upgraded to 8 speed, and it was still fine when I passed the bike over to my boss 7 years and 20k+ miles later

    Posted 11 years ago #

  11. TractorFactory
    Member

    Result!!! Shop of origin, Halfords, are going to fix it under warranty.

    The bike is a Boardman Hybrid from Halfords and I know Halfords generally get a lot of stick but my local up in Dunfermline does seem to have some genuinely interested and clued up cyclists in their bike department.

    Shout out as well to the felly from SoulCycles for suggesting this avenue first and not taking offering to fix it straight away and costing me more than I needed.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  12. wee folding bike
    Member

    Never broken one and some of them have 40-50K miles on them.

    I've only got two new fangled ones, a 2001 Campag Chorus which has only done a few thousand miles and a Brompton 2 speed which is similarly low mileage.

    Sturmey Archer, Sachs 3 speed and old style Sachs blocks seem to be working fine. The trike has two Sachs blocks, one on each half shaft.

    I'm not over zealous when it comes to cleaning bikes.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  13. kaputnik
    Moderator

    I found excessive degreasing of my chain

    I recieved interesting advice from the Bike Works about NOT degreasing chains. Ever. Yes by all means clean them physically (chain oil applied liberally and wiped off with a lot of rag until it is clean works very well), however the point was that the degreaser penetrates into all the inner parts of your chain, between the pins and plates and washes the factory lubricant out and you'll never force the lube back in there to get it back to ideal condition.

    That said, they still sell chain degreasing kit and liquids in the shop!

    Same goes for keeping WD40/GT85 far away from anything that has bearings/grease inside it. Like it says on the can, it penetrates and degreases, exactly what you don't want happening to those parts.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  14. Cyclingmollie
    Member

    I just had another look at my old 105 hub and managed to unscrew the freehub - I didn't know there was a hex shaped hole in there. Got some light oil into the pawls and regreased the bearings. Smooth! I can get it built up with my spare Open Pro rim. Only thing is I'll have to get the bike shop to tighten the freehub body to 360 inch/pounds as there's no way I can get close to that with an adjustable spanner and a hex key. But result all the same. Thanks CCE.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  15. Nelly
    Member

    I had a freehub go on my Allez a couple of years ago.Kept 'catching' and dropping chain - TBW recommended chatting to original
    vendor, as it was only 9 months and 500 miles in.

    Bike co op spoke to Spesh who replaced entire rear wheel with a Shimano rs 500.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  16. chdot
    Admin

    "I didn't know there was a hex shaped hole in there"


    10mm


    Removed

    Posted 11 years ago #

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