CityCyclingEdinburgh Forum » Questions/Support/Help

wheels: bombproof recipe sought

(21 posts)
  • Started 10 years ago by wingpig
  • Latest reply from Nelly
  • This topic is not resolved
  • poll: How do you prevent your wheels from going wibbly?
    Holding your bike in the air alongside you whilst walking along : (0 votes)
    Never riding on cobbles, or any road other than the one they resurfaced when the old Pope came up : (3 votes)
    60 %
    Replacing most of your innards with bags of helium : (1 votes)
    20 %
    Employing rims which weigh two kilogrammes apiece with 50 3mm diameter spokes per wheel : (1 votes)
    20 %

  1. wingpig
    Member

    Three days ago, this was perfectly round. Three days ago I added a new cassette to it, added the rest of the new drivetrain to the rest of the bike and resumed using my properbike for commuting. A mere three days and thirty miles later, it's doing this:

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    It is wibbling because four or five spokes flop lifelessly when plunked. Several more are sounding very low notes. I tried to take a clip of them but my camera needed to be recharged. Fortunately I fitted a Travel Agent to the brake at the same time as the rest of the bits so I'll be able to get by with a bit of waggle until it can be properly unwaggled, but...

    Is this going to keep happening whilst I continue to use panniers?

    I never had this sort of wheel-as-consumable problem in the past, despite carrying fairly heavy masses in a rucksack fairly frequently. My weight hasn't moved out of a five-kilogramme range for twenty-five years so it's not me, but then my weight can be unweighted over particularly bad bumps (or at least suspended a little through flexed joints) which a pannier cannot do, but I've been avoiding cobbles for the past few days just to ease the wheel in gently.

    What sort of rims and nipples do heavy people who ride tandems use? Presumably they're not stopping every thirty miles to re-tighten one-ninth of their spokes.

    What do other 13-ish stone people who sometimes carry panniers of shopping use?

    Posted 10 years ago #
  2. Arellcat
    Moderator

    Not knowing the spec of your wheel, wingpig, I would suggest that it's as much in the building of the wheel as it is in the components. Is it 26" or 700c?

    Personally, I would usually plump for:

    Mavic A319 for 700c, 36 spokes, 3-cross at minimum
    DT Champion or DT Revolution spokes - something butted
    DT brass spoke nipples

    and make jolly sure the spokes first have had their elbows formed to match the hub flange, and that they've been stress relieved three or four times during tensioning before final equalisation. Remember that a wheel doesn't really need to 'bed in'*, and if it makes that "crink crink crink" sound from the start, that's a sign that it's been under-tensioned, and/or unequally tensioned.

    * strictly, yes it does, at the spoke holes in the hub flange, but this shouldn't affect tension because the forces are axial, not radial.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  3. wingpig
    Member

    "Mavic A319 for 700c, 36 spokes"

    Snap.

    Or plunk, as the case may be.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  4. wee folding bike
    Member

    Go have some coffee with the man.

    http://www.wheelcraft.net

    Posted 10 years ago #
  5. wingpig
    Member

    I was going to quote what Min said ages ago about needing somewhere more accessible in case someone mentioned him.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  6. 14Westfield
    Member

    I can recommend Sputnik rims from spa cycles.

    I got them after wrecking a couple of rear wheels and having to regularly re-true.
    Since then theyve needed very little annual adjustment and proved great for our wonky roads.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  7. wingpig
    Member

    Thinking back, my first home-built rear wheel (three-cross double-butted 32h CXP33) didn't need any spoke-key attention for most of a year of pannier-use, but after I couldn't swerve/brake/hop a pothole with a child on the child seat the rim developed a dent from which it never recovered.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  8. DaveC
    Member

    I'd not recomend a new wheel (yet!!), but instead take it along the the new bike shop (The cyele Service) or if you live in/near Musselburgh, try Martin at Wheels2Wheels and ask them to retension/true the wheel. If it happens again for no reason, then try to find the answer, and think of a possible replacement. The wheel doesn't look beyond a simple repair looking at your clip above.

    I have a spare 700cc rear I can lend you if you don't have a spare bike/wheel. pm me if you want to borrow it.

    Dave C

    Posted 10 years ago #
  9. Instography
    Member

    Almost certainly poor building. And I'd add my personal testimony that neither personal weight nor pannier weight (even fully loaded for camping) should pose any problems for a well-built wheel.

    I've built my wheels with Mavic A719, 36 holes, plain gauge cheap spokes, three-cross. Never bothered with forming the spokes to the flange or even stress-relieving them. I noticed a slight wobble in my front wheel this morning but it's taken 18 months and maybe 6000 miles to get that. I'm about to throw the rim away as it's pretty concave with wear.

    Is this the wheel that was ready a day early? Rushed out? Take it back and ask them to do it properly.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  10. kaputnik
    Moderator

    Never had any problem with A316 / 36 hole for very heavy weights.

    My mostdays bike has Openpro / 32h and nearly always carries 1 pannier, and does shopping runs with 2, likewise the only thing needing me to replace the wheels is brake wear on the rim.

    I did pay better-qualified persons than I to build the things though.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  11. wingpig
    Member

    Dynofrontwheel is OpenPro/32 and has gone 2½ years without attention, but it is only on the front.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  12. Nelly
    Member

    My Mavic A319 for 700c, 36 spokes built by TBW on my own hub daily carries a 90kg me, plus a carradice stuffed with laptop, clothes, and occasionally a box of 15 stellas - with no apparent problems in the 4 months since build.

    My vote is the building (sorry if a self build) not up to scratch.

    Or perhaps something to do with the distribution? i.e. all pulling on one side?

    Posted 10 years ago #
  13. Dave
    Member

    +1 for a trip to the Cycle Service. Unless you ride over bomb sites with a deflated tyre there's just no way you should be taking a wheel out in a few miles.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  14. Snowy
    Member

    My usual commuting bike has Mavic CXP22 700s with a 95Kg rider and between 5 and 10Kgs of load daily (usually one-sided), 6000+ commuting miles, about 7% of that on cobbles, not a single tweak required to a spoke so far on that bike. I'd agree with Insto, just doesn't sound like the wheels were built right.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  15. Baldcyclist
    Member

    Now more confused...

    Popped another spoke on my rear wheel yesterday, as that's about 10 gone over the last two years and 6000ish miles, along with new cones, and an axle, and a warning last time work was done on it that the freewheel was on the way out. So I decided that last spoke was the last straw.

    Went into the bike works at lunch time armend with my newfound knowledge from this thread and asked the man how much a 36 spoke Mavic Touring rim, HT hubb'ed wheel would cost me?

    "What do you want it for?"

    "Commuting."

    "We have these ones already built."

    "Oh, can you do those with a disc hub?"

    "Ah, that changes things a lot. That touring rim would be overkill for a disc braked bike"

    In the end he suggested one of their pre-built wheels with unbranded rim, 32 spokes, and a Deore hub, and offered to relieve me of ~50 less of my pounds than I originally thought I would have had to pay.

    Does having a disc braked wheel really make all that much of a difference to the stresses the wheel will need to absorb?

    Posted 10 years ago #
  16. DaveC
    Member

    Is it a hand built of machine built? I someties think machine built wheels are cheap but aren't as good as hand built wheels.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  17. crowriver
    Member

    I've carried ludicrous amounts of weight on my hybrid, which has relatively inexpensive 700c, machine built, Alex Z1000 rim wheels, and only 32 spokes. I've had to true the wheels a couple of times only in 5 years. V brakes rather than discs mind you.

    Mavic A319 with 36 spokes should be a great wheel if it's built right.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  18. Arellcat
    Moderator

    Does having a disc braked wheel really make all that much of a difference to the stresses the wheel will need to absorb?

    On the rear, no. The wheel already has to transmit your pedalling forces from hub to wheel, so wheel to hub is more or less the same thing. You might get creative with whether you want inbound or outbound spokes on the disc side taking the tension forces, and you might try to determine an upper limit of torque from braking or accelerating, but it's basically academic.

    On the front, yes. You wouldn't run a disc or drum brake with radial spoking.

    The A319 is overbuilt for discs only because it has a brake track.

    Posted 10 years ago #
  19. Baldcyclist
    Member

    After reading this thread and needing a new rear wheel I decided to just have a go at making one.

    Mavic A319 rim on a Shimano deore m445 hub laced with 36 bog standard Sapim spokes. All in cost about £80.

    What fun!

    Took me 3 attempts to get the lacing pattern right, but a wee bit of YouTube, a wee bit of Sheldon Brown, and a wee bit of comparing against a hand built wheel made by Bike works, I got there. That 3 cross pattern is now ingrained in my brain.

    I had trued wheels before so thought the truing process would be easy, it was mostly, but a much longer process than I imagined when starting from afresh.

    I managed to get the wheel perfectly round, and within 1mm of lateral true, so I was pretty happy with that on a first attempt. :)

    Rode the bike for the first time yesterday (other than round block), did a short commute (~5 miles) incase it was going to break on me so I could walk to work. No pings or anything like that when I first rode it, pleased. seemed to roll really well on that short run.

    Thought I would give it a 'proper' test on the way home, going at 30mph, aiming for bumps, dodgy road surfaces etc. It soaked it all up a treat, and no flexing on that wee steep climb at Cramond Brig where I can usually feel it on the old wheel. Then tried some excessively fast cornering on the way home (much faster than normal), and turning right was a dream, but turning left at 20mph, oh, bad, really bad. Bike trying to run really wide, didn't feel good at all. But it was still true when I got home after giving it a thrashing with a fully loaded pannier on too. :)

    So, it appears that my eyes failed me when trying to 'dish' the wheel in the frame. I thought it was pretty centre, but a re-check last night with a ruler shows it is about 5mm out and needs to be pulled into the drive side.

    Anyway, going to invest in a dish stick for when I do the front wheel, and borrowing one to dish the raer wheel tonight.

    Did I say how much fun I had?

    Posted 9 years ago #
  20. steveo
    Member

    You don't need one for the front it should be nice and symetrical, unless your running disks...

    Posted 9 years ago #
  21. Nelly
    Member

    "Did I say how much fun I had?"

    sounds a blast !

    I am fairly sure that my last TBW build, on my own hub admittedly (Genesis SS having a very, very odd OLD width) was around £60 - Mavic A319 for 700c, 36 spokes.

    I admire your persistance, but to be honest........I would have chucked it out long before now !!

    Posted 9 years ago #

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