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Seized Al seatpost

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Started 9 years ago by skinnypins
Latest reply from skinnypins
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skinnypins
Member

It seems I've been a little lazy and not sufficiently greased my seatpost, with predictable results. So, I'm left with an anodised aluminium post stuck in a steel frame, and no amount of effort will make it budge.

I'm gradually working my way down Sheldon Brown's list of things to attempt (so far, heat-cool cycles, liberal amounts of WD40 and `gently' prising the tube ears apart), and I'm currently trying to source a large wrench, but I'm curious if anyone's successfully used ammonia to free a post-frame combo such as this? Or if there are any other nuggets of wisdom folk have which might prove useful? Thanks in advance.

Posted 9 years ago #
Cyclops
Member

Plusgas is a far more effective releasing agent than WD40. Ideally apply it to both ends of the seat post - you might be able to squirt it in the bottle cage bosses or you might need to remove the bottom bracket.

Posted 9 years ago #
wingpig
Member

"...but I'm curious if anyone's successfully used ammonia to free a post-frame combo such as this?"

I have a nice 531 frame and a non-anodised alloy seatpost. steveo supplied me some ammonia a few years ago but I've still not yet got round to having sufficient time/space/infant clearance to give it a go, but I'm angling for some time over winterfeast...

Posted 9 years ago #
chdot
Admin

"Ideally apply it to both ends of the seat post"

Think that is important.

I actually know someone who managed to do it with *legendary* Coke. (Not Diet, apparently!)

"heat-cool cycles" - how do you actually do that, without a large deep freeze or damaging the paint (or both)?

Posted 9 years ago #
pixelmix
Member

I sent a frame and post to this guy when it really couldn't be removed. Knows his stuff.

Your setup doesn't sound as bad as my carbon wrap post in alu frame issue, but if you run out of options, he'll definitely sort it out for you.

Posted 9 years ago #
chdot
Admin

Of course the (almost) guaranteed method is a hacksaw blade.

If you haven't got a suitable handle to make a sort of pad saw, a rag will do.

Takes about 1/2 hr (more with a long seatpost a long way into the frame).

EXTRA care with 531 (or similar).

One cut is unlikely to be enough. Two close to each other should do.

DON'T cut seatpost close to the frame ('less metal to cut') because you'll need a 'tab' to get hold of with mole grips (or pliers if you're strong enough) to start tearing away the cut strip.)

Pull, prize, twist, lever, saw a bit more until the strip is out. Post might just relax enough to 'fall' out. More likely to need twisting - holding on to the bit you didn't cut too short...

Posted 9 years ago #
steveo
Member

I've have once removed a seized seat post it involved a little volume of ammonia and a lot of swearing.

Posted 9 years ago #
chdot
Admin

"and a lot of swearing"

Yeah - especially when you first find it's stuck!

Posted 9 years ago #
le_soigneur
Member

After pouring in lots of release fluid, I took off the wheels(put in a dummy rear hub & QR skewer for added strength) & saddle rail, upside down the 531C frame, clamped the seatpost stub on a bench vice and twisted the frame. Lots of leverage between the rear dropout and the headtube, got it moving, back and forth, it got hot(so did I) but eventually it "screwed" off.
Probably not suitable for full-carbon frame.

Posted 9 years ago #
Cyclingmollie
Member

I think Cyclops is too modest to mention that as a dentist turned bike mechanic he is super competent in the drilling/pulling of stuck bike parts. He sorted out the crank I'd monstered onto my bottom bracket and threw in a refacing for free.

Posted 9 years ago #
Colin
Member

Another alternative is to lube from bottom and top, as already mentioned, then mark the post with a felt pen where it enters the frame. Remove the saddle and clamp, then get someone to hold the bike while you hammer a flat bit of wood on the top of the seat-post. This is often enough to dislodge it - check if the mark is still visible. Then more lube and twisting the seat-post will hopefully free it.

Cheers
Colin

Posted 9 years ago #
biketrain
Member

A good friend of mine wrote up his method of removing a stuck seat post.

stuck seat post

Posted 9 years ago #
skinnypins
Member

Thanks all for the suggestions! This has renewed my (previously failing) optimism that I'll get the bugger out - here's hoping! I think I'll start with copious amounts of Plusgas from both ends and go from there.

@chdot - re. `cool-heat cycles', my approach involved a large quantity of boiling and icy water poured over the frame at intervals. I doubt it helped, but it at least made me think I was covering all avenues.

Posted 9 years ago #
threefromleith
Member

Here's what I did a few years ago to remove a stuck seatpost (alu in steel frame):

Firstly, I doused the seatpost area in WD40 and left it overnight. Then I drilled a hole through the seatpost, put a long screwdriver through it and battered the screwdriver head from the side, one way then the other, until the seatpost started to move.

Posted 9 years ago #
skotl
Member

@skinnypins are you anywhere near Dalmeny/South Queensferry?

If so, my combination of welding kit / flame gun / vice / tap&die should be able to get it out.

If the locale works for you, drop me a PM.

Posted 9 years ago #
skinnypins
Member

@skotl - that is very kind of you to offer, thank-you. I'm near-ish, so may well PM you if the current iteration of exertions proves fruitless!

Posted 9 years ago #

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