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Any recommendations for a 700c disk only rim that is sturdy enough for a spot of relatively light off roading, think less hard than Glentress but more than the WOL, your average Pentlands trail.
The wheels of my CDF are about knackered, well the hub is, so before I just get another rim of the same thats fitted and dynamo hub I thought I'd seek the wisdom of the (small) crowd.
@steveo
Mavic 119 with DT Swiss Comp Silver spokes. I have abused mine heartily and they are still quite round.
I'm being conceited I'd really like ones with out a machined braking surface.
They're disc only. No rim braking surface.
My Whyte Caledonian (hybrid/all terrain) came with WTB SX-17 rims. Seems pretty solid to my untrained eye, I put 40mm knobblies on and have used it over some fairly rough trails without incident (so far).
@urchaidh
Which 40mm knobblies did you fit?
Went with Surly Knard 700x41 after a bit of advice on this thread.
I got some of the folding bead ones in an online sale. They did feel a bit 'flimsy' to me when I was fitting them but have had no issue with them so far.
Go tubeless!
I have tried a couple of rims from Ryde (too lightweight, I destroyed the one on the rear just commuting with a bit of light gravel) otherwise Stans (maybe a bit pricy?)
Seriously, you'll never look back after getting fatter tyres set up tubeless for off road.
Tubeless tyres seem to need some fancy repair kit or liquid sealant or both...?
They're disc only. No rim braking surface.
must have been looking at the other 119 or something completely different.
Go tubeless!
I swap between road and off road tyres, from what I've seen of tubless this is more ache than I want on a Sunday night!
Ah yeah. If you want to regularly swap tyres I don't think it's worth it...
Right settled on an SP PD-8 with the Mavic XM-119.
I've built a normal front wheel but never a disc one, the spoke calculator (https://leonard.io/edd/) gives a 2mm different between left and right, does this matter?
Next how much harder is it to build a dished wheel?
@steveo
You'll need a wheel dish tool. (Which you could improvise with a straight piece of timber/steel and a micrometer.)
Apart from that it's not really any harder. PM me if you need a hand.
Or, do the tightening/balancing dishing stage with the incipient wheel in the forks it will occupy, where you can observe whether the rim is in the middle or not?
I made a dish tool from a stairgate extension. Works quite well, I'll try find a photo which is sharable...
Untitled by Mark Findlay, on Flickr
It was dead easy to make, cut it to size, drill a hole, done. :)
Cheers iwrats.
@wingpig does that work for dishing? Thats how I finished my last wheel.
@Baldcylist I'm never happy building tools it seems to take me as long as to do the job.
In partially related note, thats the first bike stuff I've bought in 12 months. Yeah for a new bike...
The dishing is implicitly correct if the rim ends up centred in the forks of where the wheel will be in use, assuming straight forks. The fork crown doesn't care about the different offset at the hub.
Do you use a widget to line up or just eyeball it?
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