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Bad Advice Wanted - New Bike

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  1. Uberuce
    Member

    @Uberuce, you were actually looking for good advice, weren't you? Not bad as you said.
    :-)

    Busted, egads! I would have got away with it, if it hadn't been for you meddling kids and that darned dog...

    I took the back wheel off while cleaning it, and it spins around the axle perfectly slick and smooth. It's the cogs that make the grinding feel. Just now I tried eliminating the obvious and had another go cleaning out the gunk and that's made it better but not perfect.

    Same for the chain.

    The cranks have a barely detectable feeling of grind; pedals are fine. Rubbish pedals, but mechanically fine. I don't know how much is safe to ignore; they feel like it's just a couple of granules outside but lodged too deep to be flossed out by my cleaning rags.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  2. kaputnik
    Moderator

    If it's a freewheel then the cassette has it's own set of bearings to the wheel and axle. If they all spin nicely on their own then the bearings and surfaces should be good (although regreasing never hurt anyone!)

    It's a good age, it could just be that the surfaces of the chain and the cassette are worn. The pins in the chain may also be worn / corroded leading to it not spinning smoothly.

    Replacing chain and cassette should be done at same time.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  3. Uberuce
    Member

    I think the case for singlespeed is getting stronger; I think both chain and freewheel are of 1988 vintage and that pesky 2nd Law has been at them, and in the meantime the gear levers are infuriatingly on the frame, so ditching them altogether while replacing the back wheel or hub won't faze me.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  4. Uberuce
    Member

    Out of date Update: Bought a Genesis DayOne in early September, now running it fixed, rawr. Winterising it the now.

    Actual Update: at Sunday's car boot sale I bought a 1976 Raleigh Esquire, a big old grandpa roadster. Restoration Project: begin!

    The frame only has a couple of rust spots, but one is at the toptube/saddle lug, which is a bit of a worry if it's gone far under the lug, I would imagine. On a shoestring budget I've read that oil-based enamel model paint from Wonderland is a good shout to cover them. Anyone disagree/agree? I'm not hugely concerned about the colours matching.

    Tyres are epic in their old and knackerinity. Good enough to ride very gingerly along the canal, but I suspect they can't take proper pressure or anything that even resembles every day riding. Replacing with some regret.

    Rims are pretty speckled with rust, but are true and have around four tonnes of metal in them. Not sure what to do with them; they look like they've got decades left, but I know I know naathing.

    The chain was a work of modern art decrying the despoiling of the ecosystem, but is now a degreased and lubed thingy for making wheels turn.

    The Sturmey-Archer 3-speed (what else) is oiled up and working okay, but the freewheel is absurdly frictiony despite all efforts so far to slicken it.

    The headset's alright.

    Handlebars are slightly pitted but otherwise fine, grips are falling off. Cork replacements are on the cards.

    Need to regrease and almost certainly replace the bearings in front hub and bottom bracket. What tools do I need for that?

    Brakes are intrinsically rubbish, although the pads look like they've been replaced not too long ago. I suspect the state of the rims isn't helping. Recabling and adjustment is on the cards.

    But before all that I need to finish off cleaning it...

    Posted 13 years ago #
  5. steveo
    Member

    Braking on a steel rim will never be what you're used to, using it in traffic in the wet is probably an experience you never want.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  6. chdot
    Admin

    "which is a bit of a worry if it's gone far under the lug"

    Nothing to worry about with the size of tubing involved.

    Agree with S about rims.

    This is what you need. (I assume your bike has 36 hole rims.)

    Posted 13 years ago #
  7. Uberuce
    Member

    Ooh, thankee for the spot, 'dot. I'll count the holes tonight, although against my better judgement I like the current rims.

    Already had the joy of braking down Ashley Terrace in last night's shower, thankfully without traffic. The brakes didn't so much order the bike to stop so much as suggest it in such a roundabout way that there was a significant delay until the old gentleman worked out what they were talking about.

    Oh, forgot to mention: still got the original bottle dynamo and lights, which is a magnificently stupid way of lighting a bicycle but looks awesomesauce. I know I should get something to light me up when stationary, but I'm loath to have those ghastly LEDs unless someone makes them with a warmer light tone. Do such things exist?

    Posted 13 years ago #
  8. steveo
    Member

    You can get warm white led's but I don't think there are (m)any off the shelf products, you'd have to mod something.

    What I would do is get something contemporary to the bike and add some LED's to that, much brighter and safer probably draw less from the dynamo and would look "right". Super Capacitors can be added for a couple of (dim) minutes of stand light.

    One of these:eBay Linky
    In a circuit like this
    http://pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DynamoCircuits.htm#Basics

    Posted 13 years ago #
  9. kaputnik
    Moderator

    @uberuce BuM do a "classic" LED light. It is 25lux so reasonably bright and the N plus version has the standlight. Think like most BuM lights it is available for bottle dynamo and hub dynamo, but don't know if it's compatible with an old fangled dynamo that probably has it's output in imperial units.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  10. chdot
    Admin

    "old fangled dynamo that probably has it's output in imperial units"

    Almost all dynamo were 6V 0.6A - except SA Dynohubs which were 6V 0.5A.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  11. wingpig
    Member

    You can always leave the bottle dynamo in place for the look and rewire modern systems into the existing light shell using a hub dynamo.
    Sticking a blue-white LED through something like an 81B photographic filter might take out a bit of the blueyharshness at the expense of some searing noticeability.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  12. chdot
    Admin

    Presume it's like this (random Flickr).

    Looks like 36h.

    Any brakes would be better. Though greased cables and new blocks would make a difference.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  13. steveo
    Member

    I just came across the same picture. If that light is similar then you could mod an led into it with out too much work.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  14. kaputnik
    Moderator

    I never knew there was such an art as "hacking" bicycle lights.

    Until now that is!

    Posted 13 years ago #
  15. Uberuce
    Member

    The light's the more common round style, so it's got more room than the one from that picture(chdot presumes correctly; that's him). I'll aim for modernising the venerable shell, methinks.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  16. Uberuce
    Member

    Took a while to recharge my camera and go Flickry, but he looks like this:

    RupertOldShoesRS

    Posted 13 years ago #
  17. chdot
    Admin

    Stem looks dangerously far out of the steerer.

    You might find the pedals uncomfortable. Not sure if they are the sort without ball bearings - a bad economy measure by Raleigh.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  18. kaputnik
    Moderator

    @uberuce - "nice lugwork". That is a fine machine! Can I just about make out "heron" chainwheel?

    Posted 13 years ago #
  19. Uberuce
    Member

    Oh, blimey, I didn't even notice. Yes, you can. Isn't that pretty? Thankee, kap.

    Chdot: I wrestled the stem down as far it'll go, which was only about an inch. The expander bolt at that height ends up about one inch below the underside of the top tube, but I'm n00bscummy enough to not know whether expander bolts and stems are the same length.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  20. chdot
    Admin

    "not know whether expander bolts and stems are the same length"

    Have you taken it all the way out?

    When you put it back make sure it goes in at least a couple of inches.

    It's probably too old to have a 'safety' line.

    Posted 13 years ago #
  21. Uberuce
    Member

    *removes stem fully, takes measurements and wrestles some more*

    Ah righto. Yes, there's no safety line, but it's in good and safe now, thankee for that tip.

    Posted 13 years ago #

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